rider

You probably have more chance of finding a 20oz gold bar lying in your road gutter. I ran some air box pics past a mate with a 3D printer and he said a Supra air box would be a possibility but it'd cost a lot of money to get all the scanning done. I'm sure there are tons of people running cones who would love to revert back to a box filter, maybe a group funding/buy would be the way probably the only way to go on this.

oven for 10mins at 80degrees

You should check to see if your browser or bookmarks have been hacked. Easily done by copying and pasting the ip address detailed below into your browser bar and hitting return. If it lands on the FB page with no strange messages then you probably have had a bookmark hack. If it ends up with the same strange message then use the ip address in an alternative browser and see what happens. If its OK in an alternative browser then you'd be best uninstalling and reinstalling your preferred browser. FB ip address is 31.13.90.36

Stating you've owned it since 2006 is a big plus point just there.

Always good to see a Supra restoration in progress, maybe start up a project thread and keep us updated as the project progresses. As someone who has spent way too much money on renewing my car components and a rust bust I share the pain but its a process that'll deliver a great car and a great driving car.

£30k is top top money for a jspec TT6 so probably deserves a much more detailed write up. That's the kind of money that'd land a dealer car with dealer guarantees and warranty, peace of mind is worth a lot on any old car.

The great Sunday pastime for those with too much time. I didn't get around to doing mine yesterday, tackling instead a pinion oil seal on my old MGB. The decline of forums should prod users to harvest all the information they need or are ever likely to need as one day they will disappear when hosting isn't renewed. I've used my time, effectively I think, to pdf file print or copy any threads or technical reference materials from this and other Supra forums that I am ever likely to need and anyone planning long term ownership wouldn't be doing themselves any harm by doing likewise.

There was a thread in 2009 that asked and discussed the levels of membership and seeing that's coming up to 10 years ago may as well post up for the archive the past figures alongside present: 2009 Paid members 1568 Active forum member 2750 Total registered 24k 2018 Paid members ???? Active forum members 780 Total registered 50k Reading around the topic of increasingly inactive forum membership across all subject matters the best guess anyone ever came up with is when the active posting membership falls below 50 individuals you lose critical mass and its time to put the forum to bed as a anything other than a valuable archive reference area for as long as that forum remains hosted.

You probably want to add in a timing belt and tensioner and sensible brake overhaul/checks. The wheel bearings could be corroded also after so long standing, particularly if they are the 24 year old type of bearings. You may also want to squirt a little diesel into each cylinder before hand cranking as the rings will be dry after 5 years standing and that would lubricate the rings and bore ready for starter cranking.

TCB will be very likely able to get you one, it'll probably take a few weeks and be white rather than orange and cost around £25 but if you aren't in a hurry it'll give you a neater loom terminus. PS It'll end up something like this

I've never managed to squeeze more than 55l in my tank so I think there has to be quite a bit left when the yellow light comes on. You are probably nearer to 20mpg which isn't out of the ordinary if you are doing city commuter drives or short journeys. The easiest way to improve fuel economy is go for skinnier tyres at the right pressure and use a thinner engine oil. Also checking you have no brake binding.

I finished off the wheel housings on my car in ABRO Rubberized UNDERCOATING SPRAY after reading a lot of very favourable reviews of the product on US car restoration threads. As well as providing a rubberised coating that is corrosion resistant it is also ding resistant from road grit and chips often found in the wheel well area and often accumulated within the Supra tank guard. It also gives sound insulation to. So I'd recommend it as something worth considering adding to your wheel areas before rebuilding.

With this badge I wish I could recall what it looked like when I first bought the car as the gold has faded like the gold logo badges also do over time. It cannot have been too garish otherwise I'd recall that. I happen to think this badge is a neat upgrade for those who have Supras sporting gold badges. The gold outline of the badge against the more pronounced Supra is a design masterpiece and well worthy of wall hanging. It wouldn't be to everyone's taste as gold badges wouldn't be but on a white car I think it looks perfectly at home.

What colour does the VIN plate say? A pearl or metallic version of the factory colour (unless it came out of the factory in common silver) would be commensurate with stocking up on the bumper and skirts front.

if you haven't already taken them off the car then see if you can work around the club set. I used the set donated by Jake that were refurbed by SGS in my car and sent my old ones onto someone else on the understanding they would pass on their old U/S struts to SGS to rework for another member as its easier to swap one at a time than take both off and have a heavy tailgate to fight with unaided. That someone else was novak, just PM novak as he should be holding his original set ready to send on to SGS for new struts, retaining the original fittings.

That's a lot of oil, I have never topped up in 20 years on BPU. There are ways you can reduce oil consumption and the easiest is to go for a thicker oil. If your not running tight bearing tolerances then stepping up from a 40 to a 50 or even a 60 weight oil won't do any harm and should lower your oil consumption a fair amount.

I use these on all my indoor stored cars to keep the dust and bird shit off for those in the barn. Cotton type feel so really soft but also really very durable and stretch easily to over body parts. The longest I've had one is three years and no rips or tears and I'm sure if I washed them even with the red there probably isn't much colour fade either.

Drift Bear had the same badge presumably from his same age, 1996, RZ. It was a Y2,500 option.

The badge edges are gold. How is that wrong?

I've owned the car since 1998 and its been stuck there all that time so it is very unlikely to be an aftermarket badge. It's too well made for an aftermarket effort.

I was tidying up the logo badge and third brake light today of residual polish on the edges and its transformed them to HD rather than blurred edges. Does anyone have the 'Supra' badge shown in the photo lying around and in need of a new home. PM details if you do. [ATTACH=CONFIG]229655[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]229656[/ATTACH]

You'd need to go a little further than just removing the hockey or wheel house shield as you need to get behind the wheel housing to feel what is going on. You'd be best removing the cabin air vent (4 bolts) which is located behind the wheel housing plastic shield (3 bolts). You will then be able to feel behind the corrosion to find out if the metal inside is corroded or smooth. If its smooth then its easier to sort external rust which can be ground back to metal and then the hole filled with a fibre patch from behind and filler or patched with fresh metal if its large enough to warrant that.

Talk of stock and NOS drilled right down to tyres, your conversion appears complete. Its a very sensible transformation investment wise. As far as tyres are concerned your chances of finding old Pilots sitting on a shelf somewhere and available to buy is probably about as good as landing the jackpot on the lottery. There is a market in manufacturing, new, old style cross-ply and early radial tyres for those who want the exactly as it rolled out of the factory look but that is only just catching up with 1990's rubber and the prices are truly wide eye inspiring. But, as a owner of several classic cars there isn't much I haven't delved into over the years and if you don't mind paying that specialised premium you could start here. Smaller wheel size but they will be able to tell you if there are 17s available.

My bad - missed the Nissan gearbox mentioned in the engine section which do have a 90% price advantage, being available for a few £hundred second hand, over the Supra OE 6 speed boxes. They are supposed to be too wide for a manual Supra tunnel but guess they must be a neat fit for the auto tunnel.

With the number of cheap (compared to the V160/161 options) BMW and Nissan box conversions on the rise it'd be worth your while adding what 6 speed box the car is fitted with. It's certainly a big ask money wise, very few TT6's or modified TT6's go for this amount and the VIN plate does add value. Confirming it is an original Supra fit 160/161 box will definitely help you nudge the price closer to what you are after. Probably your ad could benefit from a run down of the ownership and service history as well as some interior and underside pics to support the top of market price point.