rider

I've never managed to squeeze more than 55l in my tank so I think there has to be quite a bit left when the yellow light comes on. You are probably nearer to 20mpg which isn't out of the ordinary if you are doing city commuter drives or short journeys. The easiest way to improve fuel economy is go for skinnier tyres at the right pressure and use a thinner engine oil. Also checking you have no brake binding.

I finished off the wheel housings on my car in ABRO Rubberized UNDERCOATING SPRAY after reading a lot of very favourable reviews of the product on US car restoration threads. As well as providing a rubberised coating that is corrosion resistant it is also ding resistant from road grit and chips often found in the wheel well area and often accumulated within the Supra tank guard. It also gives sound insulation to. So I'd recommend it as something worth considering adding to your wheel areas before rebuilding.

With this badge I wish I could recall what it looked like when I first bought the car as the gold has faded like the gold logo badges also do over time. It cannot have been too garish otherwise I'd recall that. I happen to think this badge is a neat upgrade for those who have Supras sporting gold badges. The gold outline of the badge against the more pronounced Supra is a design masterpiece and well worthy of wall hanging. It wouldn't be to everyone's taste as gold badges wouldn't be but on a white car I think it looks perfectly at home.

What colour does the VIN plate say? A pearl or metallic version of the factory colour (unless it came out of the factory in common silver) would be commensurate with stocking up on the bumper and skirts front.

if you haven't already taken them off the car then see if you can work around the club set. I used the set donated by Jake that were refurbed by SGS in my car and sent my old ones onto someone else on the understanding they would pass on their old U/S struts to SGS to rework for another member as its easier to swap one at a time than take both off and have a heavy tailgate to fight with unaided. That someone else was novak, just PM novak as he should be holding his original set ready to send on to SGS for new struts, retaining the original fittings.

That's a lot of oil, I have never topped up in 20 years on BPU. There are ways you can reduce oil consumption and the easiest is to go for a thicker oil. If your not running tight bearing tolerances then stepping up from a 40 to a 50 or even a 60 weight oil won't do any harm and should lower your oil consumption a fair amount.

I use these on all my indoor stored cars to keep the dust and bird shit off for those in the barn. Cotton type feel so really soft but also really very durable and stretch easily to over body parts. The longest I've had one is three years and no rips or tears and I'm sure if I washed them even with the red there probably isn't much colour fade either.

Drift Bear had the same badge presumably from his same age, 1996, RZ. It was a Y2,500 option.

The badge edges are gold. How is that wrong?

I've owned the car since 1998 and its been stuck there all that time so it is very unlikely to be an aftermarket badge. It's too well made for an aftermarket effort.

I was tidying up the logo badge and third brake light today of residual polish on the edges and its transformed them to HD rather than blurred edges. Does anyone have the 'Supra' badge shown in the photo lying around and in need of a new home. PM details if you do. [ATTACH=CONFIG]229655[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]229656[/ATTACH]

You'd need to go a little further than just removing the hockey or wheel house shield as you need to get behind the wheel housing to feel what is going on. You'd be best removing the cabin air vent (4 bolts) which is located behind the wheel housing plastic shield (3 bolts). You will then be able to feel behind the corrosion to find out if the metal inside is corroded or smooth. If its smooth then its easier to sort external rust which can be ground back to metal and then the hole filled with a fibre patch from behind and filler or patched with fresh metal if its large enough to warrant that.

Talk of stock and NOS drilled right down to tyres, your conversion appears complete. Its a very sensible transformation investment wise. As far as tyres are concerned your chances of finding old Pilots sitting on a shelf somewhere and available to buy is probably about as good as landing the jackpot on the lottery. There is a market in manufacturing, new, old style cross-ply and early radial tyres for those who want the exactly as it rolled out of the factory look but that is only just catching up with 1990's rubber and the prices are truly wide eye inspiring. But, as a owner of several classic cars there isn't much I haven't delved into over the years and if you don't mind paying that specialised premium you could start here. Smaller wheel size but they will be able to tell you if there are 17s available.

My bad - missed the Nissan gearbox mentioned in the engine section which do have a 90% price advantage, being available for a few £hundred second hand, over the Supra OE 6 speed boxes. They are supposed to be too wide for a manual Supra tunnel but guess they must be a neat fit for the auto tunnel.

With the number of cheap (compared to the V160/161 options) BMW and Nissan box conversions on the rise it'd be worth your while adding what 6 speed box the car is fitted with. It's certainly a big ask money wise, very few TT6's or modified TT6's go for this amount and the VIN plate does add value. Confirming it is an original Supra fit 160/161 box will definitely help you nudge the price closer to what you are after. Probably your ad could benefit from a run down of the ownership and service history as well as some interior and underside pics to support the top of market price point.

If you purchased it completely stock do you retain the SMIC, headlight washers and active spoiler. Those washers are worth their weight in gold these days and probably the easiest way to spot a UK first registered car.

PMd

I believe blythmrk has a new one available. PM him for a price if you want new or if you are on a tight budget best stick to recycled.

I heard it went for £11k to a trader so it might reappear some time soon as a flipper.

£5k would probably not cover half the missing parts that you can see are missing. Recovering a working a/c would take nearly £2k in parts as the pipework is discontinued so would need fabricating. Then the ABS is absent so are the sensors still there and working, that lot could be another £2k. Then the inter-cooler and oil cooler, there is another £1k+ using non OEM parts. Looks wiring and fuses light. Then if you want an air box with pipework and shrouds and ducting, well thats probably going to be £1k. Then there is the radiator, have to be a non OE one there. Fuses, igniter, charcoal canisters, inter cooler ducting - there is another £2k or so. Front lights, you'd be looking at another £1k there. Front bumper and paint, thats got to be another £1k. Battery and tray, thats not going to cost loads. Looks like no exhaust to, if you need cats and exhaust to get to stock thats minimum £1k spend buying second hand. The engine loom, they are expensive if you can still get them, probably another £500 if you can get one secondhand. This all assumes no labour beyond your own endeavours.

I recently bought in several heater control bulbs. Still available from Mr T. Not cheap though, several £ each. Think they were around £5 each from memory for a part that probably cost 2p to make.

I polish up my log burner glass every few years. The professionals recommend and use cerium oxide powder made into a paste and then that is power mopped into the glass. You can get different grade powder depending on how aggressive you want the surface polishing to get from just a clean up to removing deep scratches. Obviously works easiest and best on large glass surfaces but you can get small felt pads for power drills for tackling the smaller stuff.

A picture tells a thousand words so looking at this will show the difference.

Most classifieds are now on facebook so maybe best pitching it onto there where there are a few £25k to £35k manual stock and modified Supras up at the moment. I doubt raising the price by £2.5k on here is suddenly going to motivate people to buy who weren't motivated before at the previous price.

If you look at the c/l controller under the passenger seat and whether it has a small programme button, if it does there are online procedures on what you need to do. I'd suspect it wont as the earlier Denso units didn't and your car is an earlier model. If there is no programme button then I haven't found any means to pair a second/new remote and assume they could have been Denso paired rather than Toyota paired. There are a couple of procedures online that take you through a process of lock unlock ignition on ignition off whilst pressing buttons on the remote but I have never had any joy with those. I tried talking to Toyota about it but they were totally useless. Your best bet may be to see if your faulty remote can be checked over to see what the fault is. I had a second fob programmed for my Range Rover by these guys who are close to you, all others said it was main dealer only. So well worth a call to see if they can clone a second working fob off your working one. If they can they will have lots of people calling them so do post up the outcome if you do approach them. PS - hope they aren't your house keys on display as they will be more easily cloned than a Supra remote.