rider

I could only dream of 40Mb broadband. In the real World that is plenty fast enough to stream content of download large programmes. If you us Speed Test then it'll tell you which server you are looking at, what your IP address is and your download and upload speeds. You can then change server locations to check distance matters, the further away the higher the ping reading and it can lead to a slower connection or if your local server is experiencing issues maybe faster. Though I've never found going for a further connection any faster. I find using the speed test site does mirror what I pay for and when it doesn't I tell the provider and soon after they will issue a network service update or reboot the connection to restore the full connection speed. A second stage is to optimise your internet PC setup. There is a freeware programme you can download and just see what is going on or use its suggestions the optimise your connection settings.

Have you ever ordered from Amayama to find parts listed as available are not actually available especially from their UAE warehouse? I won't use them any longer as the parts come with no useable warranty and they regularly disappoint with their claims of availability. Anyway, £600 + air freight, plus VAT and import duty sounds like a lot more than £500.

I sold a very good refurbished set with all centre caps two weeks ago for £200. Took a long time selling to, advertised here for 18 months and on FB for 3 months. Finally sold to a FB buyer. As a deal sweetener I threw in two 7mm tread premium tyres. So the answer is likely to be not a lot.

Isn't the stock front lip different pre-facelift to facelift?

You'd usually know if the heater matrix is leaking as there would normally be a smell of anti-freeze usually accompanied by wet carpets and lots of condensation inside on the glass on cold mornings. If you haven't got any of those happening then it could be a blockage. There is an old thread on here how to tackle a blocked matrix that could help you out.. Replacing a matrix is a major job so if you can fix your heating issue with a flush and descale then you probably just got yourself a lot closer to the asking price.

I'd guess it sold for a smidge over £19k which would be a good and still strong price. I think we will see the first £20k auto comfortably before the year is over.

My car churns over 330bhp at the drive wheels so is probably around 380bhp at the flywheel and runs on the OEM clutch. I did have to replace its first clutch but not until it was 19 years old and had covered 109,000 miles, which is why the OEM clutch got replaced with an OEM clutch. It was refreshingly cheap to.

Pretty much in the middle of the county.

Seeing you are also in Shropshire you are welcome to bring your car over to mine and stick it up on my ramp to have a good poke around underneath and then think about whats best from there if that'd help. I've spent the best part of £10k on parts replacing loads underneath so it can kind of run away unless you have a clear goal in mind.

Why change them because they are rusty? You only need to change them when the ball joints and bushes fail. If those are all good then why not just take them off, get some new nuts and adjustment cams and give them a good clean up, prep and paint? That'd be much cheaper than replacing the arms with either OEM or aftermarket items. If you want to prep a set ready to fit Ric has a set on Facebook up for sale that he says are in great condition. Paint those up all nice and black and swap over with yours. Then you could paint them and sell your old ones on to cover the cost of Ric's. Or you could change them for new if you want to restore the cars suspension to as new. That would entail sway bars, drop links, frame bushes and new shocks being part of the ever more expensive package though.

The drop in replacement for R134a refrigerant is 2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene or to give it its R its referred to as R1234yf. The introduction of R134a was as an alternative to R12 which was an ozone damaging CFC. Now the HFA 134a is being phased out because of its impact on global warming for the new refrigerant that is in relative terms, has 95% lower global warming potential. The good thing about the latest drop in refrigerant (R1234yf) is that it uses the same class of lubricants as R134a in car a/c systems; PAG's. The not so good thing is R1234yf is nowhere near as soluble as R134a is in the oils currently used in R134a systems; this means the compressor oil will need to be changed to maintain optimal performance. If using propane or butane (which was the R12 replacement in fridges) then the compressor oil needs changing to a mineral oil product. So either way, one flammable (so it'd never get OE approval for car application) and one not it looks at minimum it'll be an oil change required for systems moving from R134a to an alternative refrigerant. The watchword being is stock up with R134a while stocks last. Some background reading for anyone remotely interested in this subject area.

Just browsed onto the Manchester classic car show site, that usually runs in September, and its 2019 event and beyond is cancelled - its been pulled indefinitely. I never attended so it's not a show I can claim to be familiar with. Still, there are the London and Manchester classic car shows still running for those into their classics.

Its important to buy a drier and compressor oil at the same time and they are, as well as the condenser, much cheaper in the USA than here in the UK. I ended up buying the three components from three different sources and consolidating for surface shipment from the US. So if the group buy were to be set up by someone looking to source a condenser for themselves its advisable to seek out retailers to add the other essential components up front.

Good to read that it worked out for you. Just reinstall the updates and if all runs well then you are good to go. If you find the problem crops up again then you can restore again and then delve into the update options so the PC will notify you which updates are available rather than automatically downloading and installing them. You could then see whats being updated and install them one at a time to zone into the problem update. An example is that I find sound driver updates (non Microsoft) can cause me issues on some PCs so I have all those on install on demand rather than auto update.

I have bought two spare climate control units for £50 each. The instrument cluster probably depends on things like the condition of the printed circuits and whether its a km or mph setup. It'd probably be worth more splitting down to the individual gauges than as a cluster. i'd guess at somewhere around £100 - £150.

I'm going to be part of the April 6 month tax crowd. I was thinking May originally but its much more likely to get driven in April than November.

My 1965 Mustang is registered as 1965 having entered the country in 2016. My 1996 Supra is registered as 1996 having entered the country in 1998.

Just go back to the last good working state. If that was yesterday then the newest restore point that predates that should restore things.

If its a windows PC just do a system restore. Easy and painless unless you have an infection that can disable access to or delete old restore points. There are plenty of videos on how to do that if you haven't done a restore before.

It's best not to post up a complete VIN plate online. All anyone needs to date is the chassis number which is 1005061. The NZ Supra forum specs page list this as manufactured November 2000.

The DVLA make errors and also on imports you need to fill out the year of manufacture on the import documents. So, often the DVLA just enter whats on the form, which is why if you look at the how many left site there are some Supras registered as manufactured post 2001. You should be happy to go with the earlier date as it means the car will be eligible to be road tax exempt in 2039 if its still around then.

After all the money ploughed into the car you may as well get the new condenser fitted and a new clutch fitted. The condenser is labour heavy but the OEM clutch is really quite cheap to have done. Probably cost you £1k to get both sorted as a £37k car would benefit strongly in my opinion from being bad point empty.

If the stables and the house are on the same mains meter than its a simple solution to use DLAN plugs. You just plug an Ethernet port off your router into a DLAN plug and then any other DLAN plugs on the same ring mains will have network access and internet through the router. I have that setup for my detached garage/up stairs home office. If you have separate mains meters than you need to go for a network wifi bridge. That requires a access point and transmitter terminal, one plugged into the home router and the other into a second router in the outlying buildings. Plenty for sale on eBay and loads of videos on youtube how to set these up. The only requirement is line of sight between the two units.

Not any longer, I'm no longer, as of the back end of last year, in the market for a second Supra so I am no longer following the market in any great depth and details. If valuations are not to become adopted as an official forum function in the revamp then someone else will need to step in to offer up a 2020 value thread if the series is to be continued. Hopefully people have found the valuations threads of some use but my input is very much of its time and time moves on.

For the second phase all parts ready to fit: New Parts - OEM Front top control arms: £500 Front bottom control arms £540 Lower arm brackets £65 Bolts, cams, nuts & washers £132 Front strut bumpers £44 Front strut dust Insulator £66 Front anti-roll bar £276 Front bar clamps £30 Front bar bushes £18 New - Non OEM (Blue Print) Tie rod ends £48 Drop links £42 Recycled 1st and 2nd cat (pre-facelift) £160 New gaskets £38 Total Parts Spend £1,959. The parts were purchased over a period, from Spring 2017 to Autumn 2018.