rider

The drop in replacement for R134a refrigerant is 2,3,3,3-Tetrafluoropropene or to give it its R its referred to as R1234yf. The introduction of R134a was as an alternative to R12 which was an ozone damaging CFC. Now the HFA 134a is being phased out because of its impact on global warming for the new refrigerant that is in relative terms, has 95% lower global warming potential. The good thing about the latest drop in refrigerant (R1234yf) is that it uses the same class of lubricants as R134a in car a/c systems; PAG's. The not so good thing is R1234yf is nowhere near as soluble as R134a is in the oils currently used in R134a systems; this means the compressor oil will need to be changed to maintain optimal performance. If using propane or butane (which was the R12 replacement in fridges) then the compressor oil needs changing to a mineral oil product. So either way, one flammable (so it'd never get OE approval for car application) and one not it looks at minimum it'll be an oil change required for systems moving from R134a to an alternative refrigerant. The watchword being is stock up with R134a while stocks last. Some background reading for anyone remotely interested in this subject area.

Just browsed onto the Manchester classic car show site, that usually runs in September, and its 2019 event and beyond is cancelled - its been pulled indefinitely. I never attended so it's not a show I can claim to be familiar with. Still, there are the London and Manchester classic car shows still running for those into their classics.

Its important to buy a drier and compressor oil at the same time and they are, as well as the condenser, much cheaper in the USA than here in the UK. I ended up buying the three components from three different sources and consolidating for surface shipment from the US. So if the group buy were to be set up by someone looking to source a condenser for themselves its advisable to seek out retailers to add the other essential components up front.

Good to read that it worked out for you. Just reinstall the updates and if all runs well then you are good to go. If you find the problem crops up again then you can restore again and then delve into the update options so the PC will notify you which updates are available rather than automatically downloading and installing them. You could then see whats being updated and install them one at a time to zone into the problem update. An example is that I find sound driver updates (non Microsoft) can cause me issues on some PCs so I have all those on install on demand rather than auto update.

I have bought two spare climate control units for £50 each. The instrument cluster probably depends on things like the condition of the printed circuits and whether its a km or mph setup. It'd probably be worth more splitting down to the individual gauges than as a cluster. i'd guess at somewhere around £100 - £150.

I'm going to be part of the April 6 month tax crowd. I was thinking May originally but its much more likely to get driven in April than November.

My 1965 Mustang is registered as 1965 having entered the country in 2016. My 1996 Supra is registered as 1996 having entered the country in 1998.

Just go back to the last good working state. If that was yesterday then the newest restore point that predates that should restore things.

If its a windows PC just do a system restore. Easy and painless unless you have an infection that can disable access to or delete old restore points. There are plenty of videos on how to do that if you haven't done a restore before.

It's best not to post up a complete VIN plate online. All anyone needs to date is the chassis number which is 1005061. The NZ Supra forum specs page list this as manufactured November 2000.

The DVLA make errors and also on imports you need to fill out the year of manufacture on the import documents. So, often the DVLA just enter whats on the form, which is why if you look at the how many left site there are some Supras registered as manufactured post 2001. You should be happy to go with the earlier date as it means the car will be eligible to be road tax exempt in 2039 if its still around then.

After all the money ploughed into the car you may as well get the new condenser fitted and a new clutch fitted. The condenser is labour heavy but the OEM clutch is really quite cheap to have done. Probably cost you £1k to get both sorted as a £37k car would benefit strongly in my opinion from being bad point empty.

If the stables and the house are on the same mains meter than its a simple solution to use DLAN plugs. You just plug an Ethernet port off your router into a DLAN plug and then any other DLAN plugs on the same ring mains will have network access and internet through the router. I have that setup for my detached garage/up stairs home office. If you have separate mains meters than you need to go for a network wifi bridge. That requires a access point and transmitter terminal, one plugged into the home router and the other into a second router in the outlying buildings. Plenty for sale on eBay and loads of videos on youtube how to set these up. The only requirement is line of sight between the two units.

Not any longer, I'm no longer, as of the back end of last year, in the market for a second Supra so I am no longer following the market in any great depth and details. If valuations are not to become adopted as an official forum function in the revamp then someone else will need to step in to offer up a 2020 value thread if the series is to be continued. Hopefully people have found the valuations threads of some use but my input is very much of its time and time moves on.

For the second phase all parts ready to fit: New Parts - OEM Front top control arms: £500 Front bottom control arms £540 Lower arm brackets £65 Bolts, cams, nuts & washers £132 Front strut bumpers £44 Front strut dust Insulator £66 Front anti-roll bar £276 Front bar clamps £30 Front bar bushes £18 New - Non OEM (Blue Print) Tie rod ends £48 Drop links £42 Recycled 1st and 2nd cat (pre-facelift) £160 New gaskets £38 Total Parts Spend £1,959. The parts were purchased over a period, from Spring 2017 to Autumn 2018.

Insurers have a wide band of valuations at market. One member reported just over a year ago that they were offered £6k for their written off parked up TT6. I was told when negotiating insurance with Adrian Flux a year ago that they would not agree any value for any Supra over £20k without independent verification in a new policy and for my TT6 they would only go to £14k unless this elusive independent valuation could be arranged. if you put your details into WBAC, 30 seconds later you'll likely receive a valuation of £650. Market has no reference point on these cars and I'd be very surprised if anyone on standard market value insurance could talk up an insurer from an initial £6k offer to anywhere near to £30k in any final payout. With agreed value insurance you really should be asking yourself what you would want for the car in a total loss situation. That is an important question as if you paid £5k you may not wish to push for a £22k valuation as the higher value insured = higher insurance premium. If you'd paid £22k for the car you'd almost certainly want to insure it for at least £22k. You must know or have a feeling with what you'd be happy to sell the car at if you were selling and then stick another 15% on top for a traders premium. Then you'll be in the right area. After that its just a case of finding an insurer who will be happy to take your money at that agreed level of cover. With the £22k suggested in another thread that's only a rough guide for a top of the market, top condition car. Not everyone owns a top condition car. So just regard that as a loose reference point. Threads on valuations are usually prompted to ensure people who don't follow values in any way aren't left sitting on auto renewal insurance at historical (historically low) valuations. they are a starting point rather than a destination. Any owner knows their own car and hopefully can assess it against a top of market benchmark to reach their own conclusion on the basis of I'm happy with that value and an insurer will run with it

I have a road trip planned for May but thats in my MGB Roadster. The wife loves that car so we do head off in that for a few days of A and B road touring every year. I have been looking longingly over the last couple of years at treating the Supra to a Cannonball Europe run but that's deep pockets £6k for a few days. I might gift it to myself when I retire after grabbing a lump sum out of the pension pot.

For the first time i put the Supra on SORN last October planning to retax in the Spring on a 6 month ticket. Seems from the 'how many left' site that about half of Supras are on SORN these days and having put mine on SORN it's something I wish I'd done it earlier, as in years ago, as it just doesn't get used in winter. It'll be off for its MOT in May with maybe 200 miles since the last one. Since doing a lot of expensive work on the car with a great amount of new Toyota parts fitted I find I'm reluctant to actually drive it. Its turned into a proper garage queen that gets dusted down and polished nearly as many times as it see the light of day. Time was I'd rack up 12k miles a year in the car but that was a long time ago. From the lack of Supras on the roads and how quiet it is here on forum you could imagine that there are very few Supra Mk4 drivers left? Adverts citing a lack of use seem to be a very common theme amongst sellers these days. SORN though, I'd recommend it for anyone considering it. I still get to start the car once a month and it gets put back into the garage after a quick reverse up the driveway as clean as it came out.

I brought a few OEM condensers in from the USA about 18 months and sold the surplus to the one I have retained for myself for £140. They were £600 from Toyota. Anyone bringing one unit over today will probably be looking at close to £200 or in Irish Euro250; still way cheaper than Toyota. Don't forget to buy a drier at the same time, they are around £35. And some ND8 oil as you'll usually have close to 75ml of compressor oil sitting in the drier and condenser that'll need adding back when fitting new components.

First stop should be to grab a multi-meter and check the resistance of the six coils, first that there is a resistance and its pretty uniform across all coils. It's normally about 13k ohms from memory but that is failing as I age so do check that out. If you then spot you have a dud one then just replace that one with a new OEM fitment coil. I have a few of those in my Supra parts storage area so feel free to PM me if you need one.

Had the car up on the ramp today to do a brake fluid change and look over ready for its upcoming MOT. I also took some pictures of the parts being changed out and the current cats with battered shields that are being replaced with a set off a recent import that got itself decatted. FRONT END BEFORE PICS

Depends if you have modifications or not? Brokers tend to be the go to for modded cars if its stock insurance I've used LV Classics and one broker Hegerty.

Last time I looked you could still get one side rear ABS sensors, Cannot recall which side it was but I don't think that there is any difference N/S to O/S other than the orientation of the top control arm retaining clip? From what I've seen of them they are both the same length so if you can get one side you should be able to make it fit.

The usual stone chip paint on sills is by Upol, their gravitex product. You need an air compressor to apply it to give the usual stone chip finish. There are lots of eBay listings with the gun applicator. The Upol product can then be over painted.