rider

Sounds like a job for the 3D printer guys. You can still get these from Elmhurst Toyota (USA) for around £20. That is a lot for a plastic push clip that probably cost 0,01p to manufacture.

PM Tyson, he was the last mod that used to contribute comments to the site regularly. Its pretty much a mod free zone these days.

Some people go really moist and sweaty at the sight of these and they used to sell quickly on eBay for £250. Though they haven't been any I've seen for a couple of years now. I think Heckler is retired and that would make these a discontinued item like so many Supra parts which could well add to their value. I'd fleabay them at £300 and see where that took them which would entail £50 in fees so I'd be hoping to land £250 either as a sale item or as an auction item. I'm not one of those people who goes gooey over LED lamps though.

Last I checked the 2 smaller central shields were still available from Toyota but the main (large read end) one has been long gone. You can fill the small holes effectively and once painted it isn't really noticeable with steel stick/quiksteel epoxy that you can form with your fingers to again with fingers smooth off nicely filling in small perforations pinching in from both sides. I did this with my ABS cable clamps on the rear upper arms that had corroded a bit thin to holed in places. Painted black you wouldn't know.

I was supposedly given an option to buy the last two rear hubs in Toyota hands in 2017 so no surprise they have now long gone . The dust shields might be easy enough to fabricate by a decent metal basher apart from maybe their rounded edges. They were just plates spot welded onto the hub.

I had the same issues with my 'new' Toyota bars being scratched and with rusted welds. You have to pay a lot for that Toyota quality. Looks like the rear hubs have a spacer bar on them and no dust shield, I've never seen that setup before; which company supplied those?

16" alloys, not much. Usually around £200. 17" alloys different story, these days around £2k for mint. They do actually sell at that price. Your aftermarket exhaust unless a recognised brand like HKS or Blitz will be scrap value. If one of the branded then people ask £350 or there abouts. Whether they get that is another question. Fluids best tipped down your recycle centre unless unopened, then fleabay is your friend. Not many people are excited with covers so probably fleabay item that would be the best way to get shot.

In my old Castrol days 50 weight oils or even 60 weight oils were either for vintage engines built on massive tolerances, knackered engines that had developed massive tolerances with a bit of bearing slap or in endurance racing where engines would run at their hottest for a long time. In a good condition and normal (non endurance) usage standard engine 50 and above were seen a a drag on horsepower and giving higher than optimal back pressure on the oil pump. Latest oils are 20 weight, in the 1990's they were 30 of 40 weight weight, in the 1950's they were 50 weight.

I'm surprised Opie are recommending 10W50 for the 2JZ engine when Toyota specified a 10W30 oil from new. For the 6sp gearbox we discovered a couple of years back that Citroen have reintroduced the OE Exxon (now Mobil) gear oil for one of their vehicles, there is a sticky on this. It is believed that is not a fully synthetic product so it will have different gasket and ring seal properties to a modern synthetic oil. There is a sticky thread on the gear oil and the details about the Peugeot/Citroën ATF D 21065, code is 9730AC plus a link to where to get the oil from.

For a new build engine that has not been builder or factory run in then you need a build oil and not any off the shelf general running oil. This is because build oils have a very specific task to bed things in properly, so some wear is required on lobes, shafts, ring edges and on honing marks. The things you don't want in a build oil is detergents (all running oils have detergents). These are additives used in running oils to maintain the oil condition from oxidation arising from heat and blow by products, running oils might be in the engine for 20,000 miles a break in oil isn't so it doesn't need them. Detergents slow down the bedding process so you don't want them. In the video I link they talk about TBN (total base number) being a bad thing, detergents are the additives with the TBN. You don't want any friction modifiers at all, no molly additives anywhere near. Friction modifiers will kill the bedding process pretty much stone dead. They aren't common in running oils but they are used in some more specialist 'high performance' products from the smaller lube companies. So avoid friction 'enhanced' oils like the plague. You do want ZDDP, I'd say at least 1200ppm with tops 2,000ppm. That is purely a personal viewpoint though. Some oils come super dosed with ZDDP, Lucas Oil do one with 3,000ppm. That is too much anti-wear for a bedding in breaking in oil. Some ZDDP marketed oils only contain 600ppm, that's on the low side of being much use. So look for the break in oils with over 1,000ppm but no more than 2,000ppm. I'd go for the closer to the top of the range the better myself, all oils 40 years ago had 2,000ppm pretty much as standard. This video, with really bad sound quality, gives an engineers viewpoint on build oils and they make a lot of good points in a non chemistry kind of way. As a one time chemist myself I find their tech speak smile inducing but they know a lot more about the metallurgical side of things than I would ever hope to know. Selecting the manufacturer of the oil you have two choices, the big boys like Mobil, Quaker State, Castrol, Shell etc who do their own in-house formulation work and engine testing or you go for a small outfit who will buy in an additive package, blend it with a provided recipe of base oils and market a product that has only ever been engine tested by their additive package provider. Companies like Morris Lubricants who operate out of a 6 acre blending shop and warehouse in the centre of Shrewsbury won't have run an engine test in their history.

You can lead a horse but sometimes. I know a little bit about oils, I worked for Castrol for a good few years and some of that in the product development labs blending and formulating engine oils from components (not the ad pack type of blending). You are best reading around the subject matter yourself and I gave you pointers where to focus your efforts. That way you will be taking an informed decision yourself on your break in oil and not one persons recommendation, which is by its very nature an individuals viewpoint. If you read around the subject area, you'll learn something and be better for it. Mineral break in oils are fine btw. Synthetic oils, unless ester or PAO based which are rare these days are all mineral oil based. Its just solvent refined mineral oil, still mineral oil though.

The pressure sensor/switch on an AC setup is there to activate the compressor clutch. Too little pressure or suction on the inlet side and the clutch won't engage. It is there to prevent vacuum forming on the suction side of the compressor which could/would pull in air and moisture, neither of which is good for an AC system.

You are best avoiding a standard VW and Merc spec oil as break in oils benefit from having anti-wear additive content and also lower detergency additive levels than normal running oil. If you read up on both those attributes you'll learn why those two, in particular, are important.

It is common to add or use a ZDDP additive as either an oil additive or as part of the engine oil blend to protect the surfaces during the bedding break in process. This is an old technology that is well proven to provide a hardened wear resistant phosphate surface coating to moving steel parts (its heat activated so the more friction then the greater the film lay down protection). In the old days of 50 years ago pretty much every engine oil contained 0.2% ZDDP and fuels did to but this was reduced over time due to environmental concerns and also high levels of phosphates aren't cat friendly. Even dosed up oils these days catering to classic car or racing markets rarely contain more than 0.1% ZDDP with 0.06% being a fairly common treatment level. It'd be worth you taking some time out to do some background reading on the benefits and pitfalls to adding a ZDDP oil additive or using a ZDDP containing oil for break in say initial 1,000 mile period. You only get to break in an engine once so its worth putting time into the initial oil choice.

That fleabay listing is no more.

There are precious few TT6's for sale at the moment so it'll probably take more than an 11 word wanted ad to peak anyone's interest. I recommend keeping an eye on the auction houses, there does seem to be a regular trickle through those selling for £45k to £65k plus buyers 15% premium.

Its very rare these days to see one of these come up for sale that isn't damaged and painted a strange colour.

30% salvage sounds a lot, I wouldn't want the hassle of storing/stripping a wrecker at that valuation.

Last I saw the front liners listed they were up for £40 but they didn't seem to fly out of the door.

I believe that there is a slight issue with the Koyo rad condensers in a restoration; in that you need to recycle the mounting parts from your old condenser which is a problem if you don't have your old condenser to hand. Last I checked there was no supply of Denso condensers remaining in the USA with Denso also having no plans to run a fresh production batch so its good news that you can get these units again through the USA Toyota dealer network. That is probably the way to go for the OP unless he can prise a stored one out from hiding on someone's garage shelf.

Good luck with this search. Its not a task for the feint hearted. Lines can be fabricated by a decent a/c engineer, I'd concentrate on trying to prise a condenser out from someone holding a new one as a spare but that'll take a big money offer to entice one of those your way. Maybe talk to Keron, there was mention that he may be looking into aftermarket units to fit the Supra.

The genuine Toyota blanks aren't expensive.

Best option unless you have a friend of a friend lined up is to put it through a classic car auction with a reserve price you can accept. No tyre kickers, no dreamers, no insurance worries, no misrepresentation concerns, no come back and the buyer pays the auctioneers premium. Auction prices can also be the best prices as they set the market price on classic cars and the audience goes way beyond the locality including to an International audience. Nothing to lose, no sale no fee so its free if your transport the car to an auction and take it away if unsold.

It's only worth painting if its a keeper, a good rule of thumb on cars is you'll add around £2k of value for every £10k spent which can only ever be improved upon if you do the work yourself seeing most cost is for labour. If a car could benefit from a respray it always gives a new owner the option to personalise to whatever colour and finish they desire around whatever budget they have and they will be happy because they got to buy the car a little bit cheaper. We are close to peak Supra so there probably will be no better time to sell. Not many Supras come with a long time history file which will add to its appeal as an honest car with believable mileage so that probably adds back what the paint condition loses. PS - As an afterthought I really enjoyed the drive I took my Supra on this weekend. It is just when people drive fast on the single track lanes that stretch miles in every direction from my home that gives me anxiety. I breath a sigh of relief when I reach the main road and when I navigate back home safely. It never bothered me 25 years ago but does today. I have to remind myself its only a car, but it does happen to be one very special kind of a car.

I've been with Hagerty for a few years, they don't like mods at all. A non stock exhaust and road wheels gets them sweating.