rider

The pressure sensor/switch on an AC setup is there to activate the compressor clutch. Too little pressure or suction on the inlet side and the clutch won't engage. It is there to prevent vacuum forming on the suction side of the compressor which could/would pull in air and moisture, neither of which is good for an AC system.

You are best avoiding a standard VW and Merc spec oil as break in oils benefit from having anti-wear additive content and also lower detergency additive levels than normal running oil. If you read up on both those attributes you'll learn why those two, in particular, are important.

It is common to add or use a ZDDP additive as either an oil additive or as part of the engine oil blend to protect the surfaces during the bedding break in process. This is an old technology that is well proven to provide a hardened wear resistant phosphate surface coating to moving steel parts (its heat activated so the more friction then the greater the film lay down protection). In the old days of 50 years ago pretty much every engine oil contained 0.2% ZDDP and fuels did to but this was reduced over time due to environmental concerns and also high levels of phosphates aren't cat friendly. Even dosed up oils these days catering to classic car or racing markets rarely contain more than 0.1% ZDDP with 0.06% being a fairly common treatment level. It'd be worth you taking some time out to do some background reading on the benefits and pitfalls to adding a ZDDP oil additive or using a ZDDP containing oil for break in say initial 1,000 mile period. You only get to break in an engine once so its worth putting time into the initial oil choice.

That fleabay listing is no more.

There are precious few TT6's for sale at the moment so it'll probably take more than an 11 word wanted ad to peak anyone's interest. I recommend keeping an eye on the auction houses, there does seem to be a regular trickle through those selling for £45k to £65k plus buyers 15% premium.

Its very rare these days to see one of these come up for sale that isn't damaged and painted a strange colour.

30% salvage sounds a lot, I wouldn't want the hassle of storing/stripping a wrecker at that valuation.

Last I saw the front liners listed they were up for £40 but they didn't seem to fly out of the door.

I believe that there is a slight issue with the Koyo rad condensers in a restoration; in that you need to recycle the mounting parts from your old condenser which is a problem if you don't have your old condenser to hand. Last I checked there was no supply of Denso condensers remaining in the USA with Denso also having no plans to run a fresh production batch so its good news that you can get these units again through the USA Toyota dealer network. That is probably the way to go for the OP unless he can prise a stored one out from hiding on someone's garage shelf.

Good luck with this search. Its not a task for the feint hearted. Lines can be fabricated by a decent a/c engineer, I'd concentrate on trying to prise a condenser out from someone holding a new one as a spare but that'll take a big money offer to entice one of those your way. Maybe talk to Keron, there was mention that he may be looking into aftermarket units to fit the Supra.

The genuine Toyota blanks aren't expensive.

Best option unless you have a friend of a friend lined up is to put it through a classic car auction with a reserve price you can accept. No tyre kickers, no dreamers, no insurance worries, no misrepresentation concerns, no come back and the buyer pays the auctioneers premium. Auction prices can also be the best prices as they set the market price on classic cars and the audience goes way beyond the locality including to an International audience. Nothing to lose, no sale no fee so its free if your transport the car to an auction and take it away if unsold.

It's only worth painting if its a keeper, a good rule of thumb on cars is you'll add around £2k of value for every £10k spent which can only ever be improved upon if you do the work yourself seeing most cost is for labour. If a car could benefit from a respray it always gives a new owner the option to personalise to whatever colour and finish they desire around whatever budget they have and they will be happy because they got to buy the car a little bit cheaper. We are close to peak Supra so there probably will be no better time to sell. Not many Supras come with a long time history file which will add to its appeal as an honest car with believable mileage so that probably adds back what the paint condition loses. PS - As an afterthought I really enjoyed the drive I took my Supra on this weekend. It is just when people drive fast on the single track lanes that stretch miles in every direction from my home that gives me anxiety. I breath a sigh of relief when I reach the main road and when I navigate back home safely. It never bothered me 25 years ago but does today. I have to remind myself its only a car, but it does happen to be one very special kind of a car.

I've been with Hagerty for a few years, they don't like mods at all. A non stock exhaust and road wheels gets them sweating.

I did find a classic car hypothetical on acquiring the salvage on the Hagerty brokerage website. First up the insurance policy usually needs to have this as an option. The example gave a salvage value of a written off classic car as 20% of its agreed insurance value which is precisely where my £12k I'd be comfortable with lands on my £60k agreed value policy.

As I drove around today in the beast basking in the quiet sunlit roads I wondered how much I'd be prepared to pay the insurer in the event of a accident write off for the salvage. There are some great parts for sale ads running at the moment from £1,500 for a scrap quarter panel, £500 for an aerial, £450 for those black block rear number plate surrounds, £400 for a fuel door, £100 for a throttle cable and even £80 for a pair of wiper arms. So I worked out a scrap TT6 Supra with lots of resalable body parts not crash damaged has to be worth £30k in parts so I'd probably offer the insurer up to £12k to get the car back. Has anyone bought their or another salvage Supra recently to know what insurers are looking for as a salvage price. We buy any car say the car must be a perfect runner and in pristine condition to get £260.

Glasgow LEZ goes live tomorrow with many more schemes around the UK set to commence in the coming 12 months. If you live in one of the towns or cities around the UK introducing their just stop oil LEZ zones why would you own a Mk4 Supra? Facing a daily surcharge of up to £60 to use any petrol car pre-dating 2006 (unless you can claim exemption for your blue badge taxi Supra) why would you? In Scotland the proposal is that the surcharge is a fine, that doubles upon each infringement. What starts as a square mile in the city centres will expand as councils exploit the revenue generating potential of the schemes whilst standing behind the virtue shield of saving the planet. Now would be a good time to ditch that Mk4 Supra if you are a town or big City dweller or else sometime in the not to distant future you will face a hefty surcharge every time you take it out of your driveway. That or wait another 10+ years until they become historic 40yr vehicles that are presently LEZ and ULEZ exempt (upon application). Keron is awaiting your call.

These are pretty much locked up with forum bods these days but they do pop up occasionally on eBay so you could do a saved search there and you should get pinged when a set appears. Expect to pay £2k for a pristine set without tyres, that way you won't get any nasty surprises.

EURO 5 rules you out of a lot of places now unless you do the pay to play daily surcharges. I had the blue efficiency 220cdi and it is a great car, I'd manage top 40's mpg on short journeys and top 50's on long journeys and its plenty quick enough. PS - my car was a 13 plate. If you go for this one I'd recommend you replace the two bonnet catches. I had one stick and you then find opening a locked bonnet isn't at all easy. When I picked up a new catch from Mercedes I was told its a fairly common problem so for the sake of 4 bolts on two new catches I'd strongly recommend you change them out. You cannot get into them to grease them and the one that failed, stuck closed, on my car had grease turned solid and a bit of corrosion in the mechanism. For the sake of £40 its worth the not wishing one day that you had.

It would be a precision job to cut in the square holes in the spot on correct position and also in the correct size to accept and retain the white clips to then have these mate up exactly with the trim clips. That is a lot of variables to get wrong measuring it by ruler and die or plasma cutting if they aren't machine stamped at time of manufacture. I suppose you could double side tape the trim piece if all else fails and rely on the two arch clips to stop it departing the vehicle.

Or a 1965 Mustang, no tax and doesn't tend to depreciate. Actually up 35% in the last 5 years.

Are the square clip holes in the ducting piece? Cannot see them in the far away photo.

You should be able to get these cheaper going direct. I doubt the shipping from Aus would be £170. https://www.facebook.com/Junseiautoparts/

You could still buy the rubber composite wheels new until recently, now showing as discontinued so there may be some units floating about in the supply chain somewhere. Those were around £650. The leather option wheels have long since gone, they were £1,400 back in the day. 45100-14590-C1 That is just the wheel so no springs or horn boss. The boss isn't cheap at around £600 but they are still available. 45130-14300-C0 I still haven't got around to fitting my refurbished leather wheel with horn boss but I'd be looking at over £1,000 for that seeing I put a good number of hours labour into refurbing it. Wheels, including the horn, are available on fleabay starting at £300, our friends at Restless Customs have a few up for sale.