rider

I only completed my Supra rear end underside project 18 months ago so it might be a little soon to comment on durability but the parts treated and coated in POR paint then top coated in acrylic are all good. I still have some bits to tackle like the bit in the middle running between the sills and the tunnel which is where undersealed has been applied in the past and as that is lifting little by little then surface rust is usually exposed. I'm just sanding these little imperfections, treating, applying zinc primer and top coat black acrylic painting the imperfections as they show themselves. I have the car on my ramp a couple of times a year so as things become evident they get tackled. The good thing about having spent well over 100 hours on the underside is that now the inspection leads more to a wash down with a damp cloth to get the surface dirt and dust off those nice new parts than it does tackling rust. With the POR adhesion a lot may come down to the prep work, I've seen videos were people complain they have applied POR straight onto rust and its lifted a few years later. I did a lot of sanding and chemical treatment before applying the POR and only time will tell whether that helps with the POR adhesion over time. You mention poor adhesion to the undercoat of the POR paint. Is that correct as the POR is designed to be applied directly to the metal surface or treated surface? The POR dries to an aerated plastic film which is impervious to air and moisture from what I've seen and dissected from the dried drip runs I removed, so the POR paint probably prefers a rough surface to adhere to over a smooth surface.

I have had this guy recommended to me as the real deal Dr Turbo. Not used him yet myself but I have talked with him about getting a spare set of 'low mileage' turbos I have sitting in my garage refurbed. Came across as no nonsense, said he'd strip the turbos while I looked on and tell me what was needed with cost there and then. No swaps, just your own turbos reconditioned unless they are damaged beyond repair. There is no option on ceramics used in jspec available so it'd need to be 'upgraded' to steel turbines.

I had all my brake lines replaced with copper using a length of tube I bought off eBay and the local garage fitted them as they had the fittings and flaring tool. Didn't cost a great deal to get it done. I bought in a new OEM set to, just in case I or any future owner want to revert it to stock but copper is good, bendable and cheap.

When I was in the oil industry Century Oils had a good set, probably the best set of racing oils for bikes in their Silkolene range that became Fuchs when the Germans acquired Century Oil way back when.

You need something like Loctite Weatherstrip or 3M Rubber Weatherstrip. The 3M is generally regarded as the superior product and there is a Shrewsbury eBay seller in the UK (not me btw). Both cost around £16 for a small tube but a small tube would pretty much do a whole car as its only a small bead required. Have something ready to rest against the seal where it goes around corners until the sealant has time to set otherwise the seals can lift or even look to cut a corner in preference to going neatly around the corner.

When I owned an Audi it got a car park hit on its bumper and I found the Holts black 300ml spray a perfect match which isn't easy for a met black. If I needed a small area touch up I'd probably buy in some Holts spray cans and check them out for a match first. Holts list four colour codes for Toyota Super White 040. HCR02 HWHI04 HWHI19 HWHI09 I'd expect you'd find one of those would be a perfect match. If you Google the codes you'll find suppliers listed at around £5/can plus postage. You can get a good paint finish out of rattle can, I have used spray guns a rattle cans to do area spraying on some of my vintage cars and on small areas I'd usually grab the spray can out of preference. And the Holts spray area I did on my Audi bumper, you'd never know it'd been painted even close up.

I had the opportunity to get the car up on my own ramp yesterday to smear a grease film over and onto the new bolts, nuts, cams and castellated nuts so took time out to grab a few pictures.

I think if you are looking at a £10k or well below that budget you can forget any of the usual importers doing the running on it. Also with the prices being what they are these days there is really not much chance of a manual coming up within budget. If you've been away for a while you may need to catch up with Supra inflation over that time, particularly JDM inflation from Japan. Your best chance by some margin to pick one up will be with one that is already here, in the UK.

Was monitoring the thread to see if it reached 4, sign of the times that it has proved difficult to get 5 cars together for an event.

For anyone near to Southampton or an urge to travel this could be a bit of a bargain. In another eBay ad just up for a TT6, a good example of lazy ad writing and picture taking and still expecting a premium price; in a rather hopeful kind of way. Another ebay TT6 for those not adverse to travelling for the right car.

As it's just a one day thing and only cost £15 I can throw my car into the ring if that is the difference between making it to 5 for a stand or not; that means two more volunteers needed. If you can get 3 more volunteers that'd be good also.

The prices cars are attracting through Japanese dealers and auction houses is eye opening, jaw dropping, wow really territory these days. Having said that the more expensive cars tend to be low mileage TT6's that meet the US 25 year to import ruling so this does seem high for a later model with in Japanese claimed terms higher than premium stock km's. i think they will find £40k a bit of an ask to far on this car. Prices are still rising in Japan but seem to have largely stalled here, maybe its a Brexit thing or just everyone expecting the next recession after 11 years since the last one so it must be just around the corner. As for the OP comments I think only about 20% of Supras are in 040 white so being stuck on the colour is going to restrict the pack quite a lot. Having said that if there is up to £40k available to spend then I'm sure just about every owner of a white TT6 Supra in the UK would consider selling for substantially below that price. So, why not post up a wanted ad and see what comes to light?

Have you pushed this on the FB page as there is only the occasional tumbleweed happening past here these days.

I have an excellent set of toyota bilsteins with look like new springs and dust covers. PM an offer if interested, you would need collect or arrange collection. [ATTACH=CONFIG]232326[/ATTACH]

Are you referring to the wheel arch or the wheel housing panels? If the arch its double skinned with the outer wheel housing panel spot welded onto the wing. If it's the wheel housing panel you are referring to all four of the inner and outer ones are discontinued with none remaining anywhere in the World. I looked around 2 years ago for those with the thought of buying in a few as spare parts as I have lots of storage room here and to sell them on in a few years time. Your only prospect to get one of these now is cut off a shell or donor/scrap car so probably best to contact the known Supra scrappers/recyclers or buy your own donor car and recoup the cost in scrap parts. Or you could get one fabricated, anything can be made from thin sheet steel.

The spring is held very firmly in place.

lowest point of the spring support to the lower edge of the top mount = 275mm centre line (top of thread) of the bolt eye to the lowest point of the spring support = 310mm Measurements from the base of the spring support, not the base of the spring.

If it helps at all I have a spare set off the car and can measure the distance from the spring support to the top.

The spring doesn't move when its seated in the lower support and decompressed so surely this can only happen if you actually have shortened/lowered spring and not the OEM spring. There are no specs I could find on the OEM spring other than ship weight of 3.08kg so if you take your spring off you can at least check its weight against the OE one.

I'd suggest you PM Rsb. He had his UK TT6 up for £36k so will be able to fill you in on the interest level at that top end of the market pricing. He has just thrown a ton of money at his car so direct comparison to your own may not be completely straightforward but you'll gain some insight into is there any life at the high end before getting possibly carried away with the euphoria of suggestions you could attract here.

My JDM has always run the mph conversion since I bought it in 1998 so whatever was done with it 6 months before that when it landed in the UK has proved to be durable. There are companies that offer the cluster conversion with a replacement mph dial (not sure if you can still get these for a Supra so it may need to be a generic dial?). You could try talking with these people to see what they have to offer.

I'd use POR paint or aquasteel on a prepped surface followed by zinc primer and a matt black or OEM colour paint. For tubular parts or hard to get to parts I spray Dinitrol 3125 which is a wax film corrosion preventive. That way you can see what is going on with the smooth top coat or wax film to know what is going on underneath.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1526448280943561/ https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100025201210307&fref=gs&__tn__=%2CdC-R-R&eid=ARAgwrez6i7gGMhkItRc1q71aUehceZFeGMGM4Qe9Sl539OuWfhp0WWthx0vV6KMPsdY9cs0vZ9JLeCX&hc_ref=ARReUm133u0MSlKVn7ZyERHwQYf0c5UDk1-uIr59rQArxUwBGu4CBlIydrVH13WuEF8&post_id=2336362146618833&dti=1526448280943561&hc_location=group

One currently up for sale on the FB page for £90