rider

This is the tool probably most used for valve seal jobs. You just whack it with a hammer to release the collets and push to refit.

Maybe you don't have an original pump fitted? Maybe you don't even have a Denso pump fitted?

My beginning of the year market guide written to help those who don't follow the market closely to then set their agreed value with insurers would pitch this around £12k, I'd likely bump that today to go with £14k on this particular car to allow for some Supra inflation and factor in the rare 6 speed OE box with everything in really nice condition as its insured value; private resale value would normally be 15% to 25% lower. So, if it were my car to sell I'd be pitching it at £12k to £12.5k ovno sale price. Exceptional cars will always attract exceptional prices but not many of us actually own exceptional cars because by their very nature, they are the exception. I think the significantly higher values mentioned could apply only to a truly exceptional car. PS - Comments assume the car is VIN matching.

According to X references Denso 471-1205 is Toyota 88320-14600

Detailed earlier, its much cheaper to bring in from the USA and it takes about 4 days for in stock items to get to your door.

Private FB and Whatsapp groups are where the forum traffic has melted away to and it continues to ebb away.

Anyone still running their original SMIC should seriously consider this offer/option. Its amazing the extra oomph you get from a functioning SMIC over one where the fins have all corroded and powder to the touch; which tends to happen after 20 years.

All the Supra a/c parts are supplied by Denso, everything. So long as you have the correct Denso part number then you have the Supra part so everything will be the same. I wouldn't go by pictures as often sellers will just put a generic picture up. If the part number is correct then the part is correct. You'll just need to do some research into matching the Toyota part number to the Denso part number. It can be done, I know as I did it, I just don't have that cross reference info to hand to post up for you.

Its easy to check the belts with a quick spray of WD40. If the noise persists then I'd suspect that you either have a bad pump but that would usually then start to leak fluid or air trapped in the system. You could check to see if there are any bubbles in the reservoir or any gurgling noises when you turn lock to lock with the front jacked up.

Don't forget to throw in a new receiver drier as well. All Denso parts. You'll find all the parts here and can either buy here or shop around. You will always find a 5% discount code running for them somewhere online. Only downside is if the components originate from different locations as they don't consolidate orders, otherwise pretty good. The most cost effective location for these parts will be sourced from the USA.

You can advance search the archives for subject matter and date range that to whatever range you wish. There are only a few car forums I know of that still have rampant activity, this clearly isn't one of them. A site refresh and new team of mods was planned to try to instil some new activity so you never quite know.

Whenever I've had popping from cars which hasn't happened for 25+ years it was invariably timing related as in too advanced.

That wasn't exactly a ringing endorsement of anything other than the MkIV.

Seeing car is short for carriage and horses departed the scene a long time ago I'd assume it has to be yes.

Check your crank pulley hasn't stripped. The ceramic grooves can shatter or even become free rotating after a couple of decades.

I have a set of door seals spare bought last year but not for sale. That means the good news is you can probably still buy them from Mr T or any genuine parts supplier. They aren't that expensive, though they aren't cheap either.

Novak had the club set of struts ready to send off to be refurbished so you won't need to change yours until the new set arrives. If you PM him you should be able to find out if he still has them or who he passed them onto.

Whifbitz, never knowingly oversold, may retail these gauges at £190 + delivery but others sell them for £135 including delivery.

You always fill via the low pressure port, you need the compressor sucking the gas out of the can or cylinder. If you can is coming with a hose, gauge and quick fit connector then it'll be the low pressure port connector (the LP and HP service ports are different sizes so you couldn't get it wrong even if you tried). Before you screw the needle down to pierce the can check the car system pressure on the gauge by pushing on the coupler to the LP service port. If the pressure is zero or very low (say 10psi) then you need to be thinking leaks and get that checked and sorted before adding more refrigerant. The standing engine off - compressor off pressure should be around 60 - 70psi. Now unscrew the hose from the can coupling to release a little bit of gas from the car system to purge the hose of air and then retighten. Then you are ready to go. Start your engine with a/c on. The gauge pressure should drop straight away to around 15 - 25psi (range dependant on ambient conditions). If it falls to the bottom end of that or below then you are running short on refrigerant. Tap down into the can and withdraw the needle to allow the refrigerant to flow from the can. The bottle pressure will be around 60psi so it'll be pulled into the system quite quickly so open and then close the needle valve to let the pressure settle back to its running pressure and repeat until you are running around 20psi or 25psi on a hot day. Then start checking the vents, they should then be running pretty cool with the blower on. If you only use a little gas to top off then you may as well check any friend a relatives cars as the can once pierced is unlikely to hold the refrigerant for the long term. If you weight in the can and hose and coupling at the start and finish you'll be able to work out how much you added and also how much remains in the can. Its really easy to do just make sure you wear glasses and preferably some gloves to push on and pull off the quick fix coupling. PS - Its important to never invert the can or even shake it about when filling a system as it'll be liquid rather than gas you could then start sucking into the a/c system and that could go on to hydraulic the compressor. Gas fill only!

The car sits as you'd expect.

I replaced the struts about 4 years ago as the originals had run 100k so decided it was time to renew. Retained the original springs, just the struts changed.

I just had my car chassis tuned and they measured the ride height and compared to OEM spec on on my Toyota Bilsteins all 4 corners were 10mm lower.

Last time I asked I got told no discounts even to price match,