rider
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I've bought and sold plenty of cars via eBay and I know one thing, I'm the only seller that tells the truth. Aside from that on all the cars I've sold I always put a foot note on the advert that any buyer or anyone wishing to test drive the car has to hand over the cash before driving the car so I don't need to worry about being carted along for a joy ride or be left wondering if they happen to have insurance. I also give them a 60 minute time stamp after sale guarantee to return the car (in the same condition) for full refund if not entirely satisfied. I've never had a car returned and that setup seems to work fine. Buyers understand why I do it and it avoids any test pilots or people who wish to haggle the price after an auction has finished. I also say the sale is on a sold as seen basis, spares or repair to avoid any possibility of fraud from malicious legal claims.
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He isn't the best at responding to messages, best to call.
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At that price I'd expect it either to be the KOYORAD PA010413 (£180) or Ava TO2347 (£160). TCB sell the AVA radiator as a drop in. Prices are just those I picked up on a trawl rather than being provided by either Keron or TCB.
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Bless her, she smiled at me rather sweetly and helped make an old mans day. Who ever bothered about what boyfriends think? I wisely pointed out that some people don't fully appreciate what they already have and with great knowledge and wisdom, invariable comes age. If I'd been salivating over the outer skin of the door, that'd be something to get concerned over. Although that could also just be another sign of great age. Time to go sit on the commode a while with my latest Classic Car Mart mag, it has a feature on the L322 this month. I have one of those. Now that is a future classic especially in the big petrol engine versions. Quite a babe magnet car too, with the rural horsey set. You do need seriously deep pockets to keep those kind of ladies content. I digress.
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PM Tyson, about the only mod that still makes it onto the site
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To think there used to be loads of these kicking about. Have you called Keron to see if he has any breaker wheels sitting around?
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It's a car for boys of all ages. The only time a girl wound down her window to chat to me at traffic lights was to tell me my car was her boyfriends (sitting beside her) dream car. She was a good looker for sure so i told her having a dream girl was way better than any dream car which she seemed to appreciate. Other than that all male from 5 years old up with thumb up, love your car or in petrol stations keen to have a quick chat. Once when dropping one of my daughters off, had a bus load of college students all crammed up against their windows taking pics, not a girl anywhere in sight other than my embarrassed daughter.
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Updated with current code
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Alternative (to 16400-46310) composite tank radiators - 93-96 TT6
rider posted a topic in Supra Chat
Might be of use to some looking for a similar to OEM radiator in preference to an all aluminium unit. I've had a quick scout around alternatives to the original Denso radiator (16400-46310) for a pre facelift TT6 that have, similar to the original, plastic tanks on an alloy or aluminium core and come up with this list of products: Blue Print ADT39884 (£250) Valeo 734174 (£250+) NPS T156A84 (£200) KOYORAD PA010413 (£180) Ava TO2347 (£160) The core sizes on some do vary from the original 41mm width. The Blue Print and Valeo are both 41mm. The Koyo radiator is 34mm. The Ava 34mm. I couldn't find the core size on the NPS. There is a Nissens at 27mm that is quoted as a replacement that I haven't listed because of the core difference. If anyone has any actual fit experience on any of these that'd be useful information to add to this thread. As a side TCB recommend the AVA product and say it works fine on the standard fan. -
A lot more that are plastic and rubber related are past their best and can lead to performance and aesthetic issues. A few examples would be coil pack clips disintegrating. Engine bay loom clips crumbling. Rocker breather hoses becoming fossilised. Door cards splitting on the lower seams. Dash splitting at the window edge. Boot plastic clips breaking when panels are removed. Rocker cover gaskets leaking. Valve stem seals worn out. Then with rust the fuel tank breather pipe corroding away. Fuel tank guard corroding from the inside. The front to rear fuel and brake lines corroding. Back of diff to sub-frame mounts going soft potentially leading to transmission hop.
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I bought a full set of advertised as original jspec brakes a while back and I have a sticking front right so figured it was time to unwrap and refurb the front calipers on the set I bought in. I found for the fronts there is one genuine and one not so genuine that weighs in about half the weight of the genuine one. Not looked at the rears yet. Stripped the non original one down and the pistons are lightweight feeble affairs and the dust boot on one piston was never fitted properly. It has a refurbished sticker on it so whoever did that didn't do it too well. So I'll go ahead and refurb the OE one and I've ended up buying a second in from SRD at a not unreasonable £150 to make a front set to swap over. Not sure whether to refurb the lightweight caliper of bin it, I think it's destined for the bin unless someone wants to make me an offer for a refurbed non genuine LH front? I've got loads of parts in the garage never unwrapped, I expect I have a few surprises still to come.
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I can feel a whole new project coming up - replace all plastic critical parts, rubber coolant and air/breather hoses in the engine bay as well as the radiator and oil cooler. The car will be going back on SORN soon so maybe its something to start this winter. Bet that lot will cost near to £1k in parts.
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The closest I can find is one by Valeo, others quoted as drop ins seem to use a thinner 32mm core (as opposed to the 41mm original). They aren't cheap though, seen prices ranging from £250 - £450 which is quite a range when you think most Valeo rads are in the £50 to £100 range. I'm tempted to buy one to hold as a spare seeing I'm 23 years and counting on my radiator. Out of interest what was the price out of Keron?
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My car is still on its original hoses so that could explain why its lasted this long. I'm always expecting a turbo hose or radiator hose to pop but they have proved to be very resilient. The only plastic bits I've had to replace so far are a few of the number 7 loom clips in the engine bay and a few of the injector clips that disintegrated due to their age. Time is not your friend with rubber and plastics though so I know its just a question of when.
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As the car and driver age it continues to confound with its reliability and durability where the car will likely exceed that of the driver. My car still has lots of original parts that you'd consider must be nearing the end of their useful life but that show no signs of failing. I'm thinking radiator and oil coolers. My SMIC was toast due to corroded fins and replaced 5 years ago but the radiator, evaporator, and oil coolers are all original 1996 vintage and seem to still be working well. The water temperature is the same on the gauge today as it was over 20 years ago. In particular regard to the OEM radiator, has anyone ever had one re-cored successfully? I'd much rather have a new 41mm core and retain the original top and bottom tanks than fit a new shiny aluminium radiator if that is possible when the time to change comes around? Alternatively, if anyone has new parts sitting around for a TT6 93 - 96 that they never got around to fitting or some really good condition parts set aside from a build project that they wouldn't mind parting with then feel free to PM me. My preference has always been with my old cars to maintain with new OE parts or restore the original part whenever possible.
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Some of the higher price cars still come with a long list of bad bits and they are the ones that tend to stay on display for a long time. You won't really see a TT advertised for less than £15k these days. Having said that there is one running on eBay at the moment with a £13k buy it now which would be worth your while watching to see how quickly it ends or how fast the auction running alongside ramps up.
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Does the a/c run even when its switched off at the controller? if it does then you may have a failed compressor clutch relay that is constantly feeding voltage to keep the clutch engaged, permanently when the power is on. Or it could be a seized clutch. If the a/c cuts off when shut down manually but goes full belt all other times then I'd next look to the ambient temperature sensor which might have issues. Good luck.
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The lower bump stops should just come straight off. Its only the side ones that are araldited in and you need to apply a heat source to those to melt the araldite; then the bolts unscrew easily. Your best bet is to cut away the old rubber then you might be able to get a set of grips onto the head remnants so you can get some purchase to be able to free them.
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for sale Bad panel gap Single Turbo Supra on eBay
rider replied to rider's topic in Supra Classifieds
Its the good bits that I wonder about: I think translated that means everyone hates this car, even girls. -
Single turbo Auto for sale on eBay for £16k.
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I reckon we are still 4 years or so off peak Supra so, if you have storage and don't need to money, i'd say keep. The only 'hassle' with too many cars is finding the time to drive them. I have three on 1,000 mile insurance and with the others, none more than 5,000. Multi-car policies start to make sense, shame there are none I have found that do pooled mileage though.
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Its amazing what cars you can pick up for vintage Supra money. Top of the list has to be a W12 Bentley for around £20k. I'd probably seriously consider something like the Jaguar Supercharged XFR if I were looking for another play thing. Then there are the out and out luxury V8 motors like a late model L322 Range Rover Vogue, by some distance the most comfortable riding/driving car I've ever owned. These cars are all good and they will generally do nearly as good as a Supra fuel wise. I found it's the road tax that you notice more than anything else. £600 a year does feel like a lot especially for low mileage use. Still, as we get older we have earned the little luxuries of a more comfortable seat, heated and massage seats, surround sound and entertainment centres and a V8 or bigger that still reminds us what it was like to be young, once, again. Enjoy your new motor.
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I think this might be the part you are after. Do check the part number is right though as sometimes it is listed as 90069-10001.