rider

The only shiny tray that it'd make any sense to sit a battery on would be a stainless steel one as that is resistant to sulphuric acid. There is one on Amazon that is $100 DDP. I've seen lesser ones in the UK for around the £70 mark so they are expensive for what they do.

With a dehumidifier you get what you pay for. I use a mid range one that comes in around the £200 mark but its really good at its job and you can set it to automatically run if the humidity is over 50%. Thats a car critical level below which rust cannot occur.

Keron, seeing you are a trader of parts and cars you are probably the one forum resource that has a finger very much on the pulse of current demand and pricing. I've suggested in the past that the forum could benefit from having a valuations team where members could then have their cars appraised and valued to help with their agreed value bids to insurers; as many insurers will accept a car club official valuation. With a forum revamp an initiative like this could bring something new and something of value to members and even be a paid for premium service to cover time or bring funds into the forum coffers. How would you feel about contributing to something like that? If you think its something worthwhile and something you could get involved with then Branners could assess if it's worthy of inclusion into the rejuvenated forum. There are lots of owners still insuring on historical values or who are facing a significant shortfall on their market value policies that could benefit from valuation help to prevent them facing a massive settlement shortfall should they ever be faced with of a total loss claim.

Don't be silly. That Range Rover will be worth £10k in three years time and £5k in another three. Your Supra won't lose anything like £20k in value over the next six years. I bought a TDV8 L322 Vogue 2 years ago for 8% of its new price. Lovely drive, no issues just expensive to road tax and fuel. If anyone wants a Range Rover buy an older one then throw it away when it breaks.

It'd be very expensive to build a Supra from Supra parts these days. If you can find a good shell then you'd be best looking to an Aristo donor car that ran a similar drive train and a LS300 donor car that used common sub frame and similar suspension parts and a BMW manual gearbox if you prefer that to an Auto. Then you could end up with something that looks like a Supra, drives almost like a Supra but wouldn't be as valuable as a Supra. You'd almost be better just buying a Supra as NA Auto prices aren't that far off a good rolling shell price these days. Then you could sell the bits you don't want to put towards buying the donor cars or parts you do want. Forget a shell build.

I've never seen a second hand set of wheels so expensive outside of stock fitment wheels for genuinely top end cars. I was looking out for a set of LM's before buying instead a set of OEM wheels and they were usually offered for sale for much nearer to £1k than £3k second hand. The sets at £1k did sell fairly quickly, i think you'll be struggling to find a buyer at close to £3k. The driftworks forum sees a fair amount of wheels traded for a multitude of Japanese cars using the 5X114.3 fitment wheels. You would probably generate more interest advertising there.

1993 TOYOTA SUPRA TURBO LIFTBACK RHD 6MT 64,125 actual miles $26,400.00 That's the important one.

I just exchanged an open diff with a new LSD unit in my ancient Ford Mustang and did look seriously at whether to build a new diff myself or buy one in ready built that would just bolt in place. I elected in the end to go for the fully assembled diff assembled by a back street racing outfit in Kentucky that was ready to fit for many reasons, namely; I had never built a diff before, I didn't have the equipment to set the preload torque and backlash that would cost £60 for cheap Chinese tools that I would likely only use once. Diff experts were quoting me £200 to build (+ parts) and £250 to build and fit. It was one of the easiest decision I ever made to have a ready to fit unit sitting by the car ready to fit that is now in the car and works well.

If you can't pin things down with specifics it'd be worth at least revealing what the top of your budget is which would have the impact to either kill the thread dead or have people running to your door.

- another issue doing the rounds.

It was via amazon.com. That is a different outlet to amazon.co.uk. The filters are for Toyota or Lexus straight 6, V6 or V8 engines.

Good point on eBay filters and the like. It is taking a bit of a punt genuine or counterfeit with anything from eBay unless buying from a legit seller. With Supra parts we have Burrows Toyota as an active eBay seller so you'd have to assume they are selling the real deal products. For the US sourced oil filters I am buying in they are coming from a Toyota authorised distributor via Amazon. Here on Treasure island car manufacturers do apply rip off pricing. With Toyota oil filters, they are mostly manufactured in Thailand and its cheaper to ship via a US retailer distributing via a US wholesaler than to buy from Toyota UK. So much so that its a buy 3 and get 2 free transaction.

Announced BMW doing a Supra MkV recall due to dodgy welding. Swapping out for new cars. Toyota Supra MkIV - no recalls ever. Seems Toyota quality has been compromised by BMW.

Showing as Friday delivery.

If the caliper is cracked it has to be replaced. ASAP.

There is a recycled set available from the USA for $20. Arrange your own freight and you could be looking at pretty cheap.

I've answered some of my own questions. Seems the later D3 and D4 filters are larger capacity filters than the earlier D1 and D2 which was probably just an evolution to have one filter for both diesel and petrol engines. I've ordered a half case of 90915-YZZD3 with a half case (5 units) worth of sump washers for £42 delivered including freight and taxes.

Looking at oil filters you can buy the 90915-YZZD3 for $6 in the USA (recommended by Toyota USA) or you can buy 90915-YZZJ3 (recommended by Toyota UK) for £13 on Treasure Island. The original spec oil filter was 90915-20001 which was superseded by 90915-YZZD1 which you can still buy in the USA for 1JZ and 2JZ applications again for around $6 for one, $5 each for a half case and $4 each for a case. Does anyone know of any difference from 90915-20001 to 90915-YZZD1 to 90915-YZZD2 to 90915-YZZD3 to 90915-YZZD4 to 90915-YZZJ3 or are they all interchangeable - which is what they seem from the canister size but later numbers seem to also include Toyota diesel engine applications?

He really needs to be more specific then.

The Autumn is never the best time of year to sell a very expensive old car. People are pushing the very top of market possibilities with a lot of prices you see asked at the moment but as the saying goes prices on a sale can only go down and if people want to find a buyer then that's what they should do. Keron is advertising for cars so why not see what he is offering, then you either have a buyer or a basement price to work from.

Looks like you have a spec of dust on the roll bar there Mark, needs a Mr Sheen moment. I dusted mine down recently and it gave a strange sense of I'm glad the wife does the house.

For the price of about 80 packs of Haribos or 20,000 shirt buttons.

Isn't 22 the water temp sensor? With these old cars first suspect has to be the wiring at the connector or the conductivity through the connector terminals. So I'd pull the sub throttle and temp sensor connectors and check the wiring is good then reinstall and see if that clears the fault after a ecu reboot (battery disconnect 30 seconds). I have to clean or renew the terminals on my old cars regularly to keep the electricity flowing and Supras are getting old. Then, replacing these sensors isn't expensive.