rider

Hagerty UK 0333-323-1138 [email protected] I've just renewed and haven't increased the agreed value this year as prices have generally stalled or even slipped a little.

I hate getting my car wet or dirty. every puddle becomes a major obstacle to be avoided. Hopefully others are less daunted with their clean undersides than I proved to be and can go on to fully enjoy their reborn Supras.

You used to be able to buy the individual seals and parts but who knows how many are still available. The Amayama page gives you all the p/n info if you want to go searching. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/supra/JZA80/109854/chassis/4502

If the return line is removed then turning the pump would normally drain the reservoir. When I had a failed PAS pump on a Ford way back in time it was an easy spot, you could see a fall in the level then a return rise on the pulley cycle. The pump 44320-14250 is still listed up on some USA sites for around $300 even though it is a now discontinued Soarer and Supra part. I hold a spare somewhere on my garage shelfing as probably do many other long term owners.

You could get a valuation from the auctioneers and then post a link to the auction page with date here. Then anyone interested could follow and bid as the feeling moves them. Unless you are in a hurry, its probably going to be worth waiting a few months as Winter is never peak time for classic car buyer activity. Unless you are anticipating a major economic crash soon which some stock market followers are predicting for early 2024.

You should be able to tell if its smoke or soot coming out. If it only happens when you go big pop then you have an explosion in the exhaust because of over fuelling that would dislodge soot. I'd be more concerned about over fuelling or timing issues.

Classifieds must have a price stated, themz the rules. As a single owner car you should consider selling by classic car auction where the price you land has a high probability of being higher than you'd get selling privately. Auctions also cut of the tyre kicker test pilot types and you have liability insurance cover through the auction house.

One word of advice on exporting is let the buyer arrange all shipping and customs clearance (the shipping agent usually provides this service). Kingstown are one of the largest USA to UK or vice versa shipping agents. Otherwise you'll be in a whole load of pain from insurance cover (1% of value) and any damage or theft from the car (that happens a lot on cheaper RORO shipping, its less likely to happen if shipped in a sea container but it still does happen) during the transit period. I'd advertise on ebay.com, facebook and their main classics site classiccars.com My Mustang Fastback shipped over from the USA with Kingstown, nothing but praise for their service. You have to be on the ball though with getting all customs forms and documents to the agent in time and authority duty payments made (customs won't clear until that is done) for a quick turnaround. Each additional day beyond the two they give you in bonded warehouse racks up charges at an eye watering rate. There is no messing around time allowed, if any is required then that costs money.

I have a K&N filter on one of my cars and its a pain of a clean up and re oiling process with of course, uses very expensive proprietary pink oil. I wouldn't go there again, it was just that they had a thin filter required with limited over carb head room between the engine and closed bonnet. I recall reading in the distance past that if you managed to gain 5hp from a free flow air filter you were doing well so, although every little helps, its not going to be a game changer. Worth a read: https://www.carsdirect.com/car-maintenance/pros-and-cons-of-a-high-flow-air-filter Basically a performance filter offers less resistance to flow so it lets more air and along with that shit into the engine (that the OEM paper element one would absorb). It is as with most things, a dirty air filter will impede air flow and available hp more than a performance air filter will enhance flow so if the air filter is changed regularly, ahead of being restricted by dirt then that will probably be the best all round deal. Lets not forget all those cheap cone filters people fitted back in the 90's where the foam degraded leaving the engine to suck through a lot of abrasive powder.

Air filters aren't supposed to get old. The longest service interval I've ever seen on one is 36 months. I have used the Blue Print filter for the last few years, gets changed every 3 years of roughly every 500 miles. If you want, I can go check the part number from my next years fit that is sitting on my garage shelf ready to go.

Is that the original rear (main) heat shield? They tend to be the one that catches all the shit and rust badly so it looks too good to be the original. Unfortunately another long discontinued part so you have to pretty much go with what you have with the heat shields these days.

Copper plugs were an every other service item back in the day, the day being the 70's. So typically 10k - 12k miles, I'd say go platinum 60k mile interval like Toyota intended.

Factors normally affecting (reducing) spark plug life tend to be larger gap giving a longer spark and fuel ratio giving a leaner hotter burn. Platinum plugs for the Supra were spec 60k miles change interval, I think 5k mile intervals for iridium probably means throwing away a lot of useable plugs. My car runs 330bhp at the drive wheels and I've replaced the plugs twice, once recently (in terms of miles rather than years) with the car at 117,000 miles.

Does she ever ask how much is all this costing? My wife never did, thankfully but I figure that has to be a rare attribute in the female World..

One bit of advice I'll throw out is with the bolts its tempting to add some copper grease. You'll be unlikely to ever wish to remove the bolts again so there is no point but the main reason why its a bad idea is that all the torque specs from Toyota are for dry thread. Adding grease of any kind, you'd need to raise the torque setting a lot to get the same tightness as on a dry thread. I did grease up all the bolt heads though, just to protect those against future corrosion.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=9 Did you unplug the ECU before doing the manual test? Although this link is to the Mk3 it'll run through the diagnostics procedure.

I wrote a thread on this site years ago on how to spot counterfeit fuel pumps and it is something that people should research before buying a fuel pump. The horror side of fuel delivery is you can go onto any of the Chinese company retail sites and order a branded fuel pump for around $5. The fakes do tend to run on plastic teeth and gears that overheat and strip rather easily whereas genuine top line pumps tend to run on metal gears. Weight is usually an easy way to spot the fakes in the marketplace, they do tend to be quite a bit lighter. Then there is the quality of embossed stamping on the casing, knock offs tend to have characters individually stamped so often don't line up perfectly whereas genuine cases tend to be block stamped. There is also the casing appearance, how shiny or dappled it is compared to a genuine pump. Even the outlets can be a different shape and colour to a genuine pump. You really need to buy fuel pumps from a top line retailer if you aren't prepared to put in the detective work to ensure that your pump is the genuine article rather than a US$5 Chinese knock off. https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/237190-genuine-or-fake-walbro-fuel-pumps-rough-guide-on-how-to-spot-the-difference/#comment-3441762

I would look to the door motor on top of the heater box leaving the blend door in the open position. It is a common fault in particular with newer Ford's where the door actuators either strip plastic teeth of wear out on the rotor electrical contact strips. What lasts 3 years on a Ford often lasts 30 on a Toyota. 87106-14090

Whifbitz are famous for never knowingly selling under priced.

Those gear stick adornments are usually delivered around £120 incl VAT new off eBay, Amayama list at £78 +VAT + duty incl shipping which should work out about £110 once you add in £15 for customs clearance with Parcel Force.

Don't throw away your old wing they are subject to Supra inflation so what used to sell for £100 is now £250. Is that front plate legal?

I was told by Autoglass, when I had them remove my rear screen many years ago now that they cover glass for breakage - their fault. They won't cover glass that they don't retail and they didn't retail Supra rear glass. So your only chance back in the day to have it covered was having a Toyota Dealership arrange the work. Maybe they would have come up with their own provisos to? You could easily get into what is their fault, if a 30 year old screen cracks I'm sure they could simply say pre existing scratches would have weakened the glass. So, it probably comes down to if they butter fingers dropped it. This was the thread I started when I was looking into having rear screens manufactured..... https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/250258-heritage-glass-front-and-rear-screens/#comment-3560885

The colour choice if you have your value head on will sensibly depend on whether you think you will ever sell the car. The original VIN colour on a classic always adds value but the hit can be mitigated to a large degree by electing to go with another OEM colour. If you don't have any intention of ever selling it then there can be no reason not to go with whatever colour and finish that floats your boat.

I think Keron said recently that he holds the rear glass in stock. Give him a call before you take your glass out just in case it does crack or shatter in the process.

With the 2 external cooling vents when I renewed mine I was surprised how shiny black the new ones were compared to the 21 year old ones that clearly get a bit of dust sanding erosion over the years. I'd recommend you fit new to get that smooth shiny plastic look on a shiny car, either from Toyota if still available or 3D printed. It wouldn't matter old or new with the the cabin air vent as that is behind a shield anyway so out of sight. I'd avoid the foam gasket fitted by Toyota for the air vent as I found that was sopping wet harbouring surface rust so I tidied the area up and replaced it with a straight silicone gasket. Those inner vents are very thin metal so do rust away quickly once they get rusted, I'd go new on those if you can and give them a lot of paint.