rider

Copper plugs were an every other service item back in the day, the day being the 70's. So typically 10k - 12k miles, I'd say go platinum 60k mile interval like Toyota intended.

Factors normally affecting (reducing) spark plug life tend to be larger gap giving a longer spark and fuel ratio giving a leaner hotter burn. Platinum plugs for the Supra were spec 60k miles change interval, I think 5k mile intervals for iridium probably means throwing away a lot of useable plugs. My car runs 330bhp at the drive wheels and I've replaced the plugs twice, once recently (in terms of miles rather than years) with the car at 117,000 miles.

Does she ever ask how much is all this costing? My wife never did, thankfully but I figure that has to be a rare attribute in the female World..

One bit of advice I'll throw out is with the bolts its tempting to add some copper grease. You'll be unlikely to ever wish to remove the bolts again so there is no point but the main reason why its a bad idea is that all the torque specs from Toyota are for dry thread. Adding grease of any kind, you'd need to raise the torque setting a lot to get the same tightness as on a dry thread. I did grease up all the bolt heads though, just to protect those against future corrosion.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=9 Did you unplug the ECU before doing the manual test? Although this link is to the Mk3 it'll run through the diagnostics procedure.

I wrote a thread on this site years ago on how to spot counterfeit fuel pumps and it is something that people should research before buying a fuel pump. The horror side of fuel delivery is you can go onto any of the Chinese company retail sites and order a branded fuel pump for around $5. The fakes do tend to run on plastic teeth and gears that overheat and strip rather easily whereas genuine top line pumps tend to run on metal gears. Weight is usually an easy way to spot the fakes in the marketplace, they do tend to be quite a bit lighter. Then there is the quality of embossed stamping on the casing, knock offs tend to have characters individually stamped so often don't line up perfectly whereas genuine cases tend to be block stamped. There is also the casing appearance, how shiny or dappled it is compared to a genuine pump. Even the outlets can be a different shape and colour to a genuine pump. You really need to buy fuel pumps from a top line retailer if you aren't prepared to put in the detective work to ensure that your pump is the genuine article rather than a US$5 Chinese knock off. https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/237190-genuine-or-fake-walbro-fuel-pumps-rough-guide-on-how-to-spot-the-difference/#comment-3441762

I would look to the door motor on top of the heater box leaving the blend door in the open position. It is a common fault in particular with newer Ford's where the door actuators either strip plastic teeth of wear out on the rotor electrical contact strips. What lasts 3 years on a Ford often lasts 30 on a Toyota. 87106-14090

Whifbitz are famous for never knowingly selling under priced.

Those gear stick adornments are usually delivered around £120 incl VAT new off eBay, Amayama list at £78 +VAT + duty incl shipping which should work out about £110 once you add in £15 for customs clearance with Parcel Force.

Don't throw away your old wing they are subject to Supra inflation so what used to sell for £100 is now £250. Is that front plate legal?

I was told by Autoglass, when I had them remove my rear screen many years ago now that they cover glass for breakage - their fault. They won't cover glass that they don't retail and they didn't retail Supra rear glass. So your only chance back in the day to have it covered was having a Toyota Dealership arrange the work. Maybe they would have come up with their own provisos to? You could easily get into what is their fault, if a 30 year old screen cracks I'm sure they could simply say pre existing scratches would have weakened the glass. So, it probably comes down to if they butter fingers dropped it. This was the thread I started when I was looking into having rear screens manufactured..... https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/250258-heritage-glass-front-and-rear-screens/#comment-3560885

The colour choice if you have your value head on will sensibly depend on whether you think you will ever sell the car. The original VIN colour on a classic always adds value but the hit can be mitigated to a large degree by electing to go with another OEM colour. If you don't have any intention of ever selling it then there can be no reason not to go with whatever colour and finish that floats your boat.

I think Keron said recently that he holds the rear glass in stock. Give him a call before you take your glass out just in case it does crack or shatter in the process.

With the 2 external cooling vents when I renewed mine I was surprised how shiny black the new ones were compared to the 21 year old ones that clearly get a bit of dust sanding erosion over the years. I'd recommend you fit new to get that smooth shiny plastic look on a shiny car, either from Toyota if still available or 3D printed. It wouldn't matter old or new with the the cabin air vent as that is behind a shield anyway so out of sight. I'd avoid the foam gasket fitted by Toyota for the air vent as I found that was sopping wet harbouring surface rust so I tidied the area up and replaced it with a straight silicone gasket. Those inner vents are very thin metal so do rust away quickly once they get rusted, I'd go new on those if you can and give them a lot of paint.

Sounds like a job for the 3D printer guys. You can still get these from Elmhurst Toyota (USA) for around £20. That is a lot for a plastic push clip that probably cost 0,01p to manufacture.

PM Tyson, he was the last mod that used to contribute comments to the site regularly. Its pretty much a mod free zone these days.

Some people go really moist and sweaty at the sight of these and they used to sell quickly on eBay for £250. Though they haven't been any I've seen for a couple of years now. I think Heckler is retired and that would make these a discontinued item like so many Supra parts which could well add to their value. I'd fleabay them at £300 and see where that took them which would entail £50 in fees so I'd be hoping to land £250 either as a sale item or as an auction item. I'm not one of those people who goes gooey over LED lamps though.

Last I checked the 2 smaller central shields were still available from Toyota but the main (large read end) one has been long gone. You can fill the small holes effectively and once painted it isn't really noticeable with steel stick/quiksteel epoxy that you can form with your fingers to again with fingers smooth off nicely filling in small perforations pinching in from both sides. I did this with my ABS cable clamps on the rear upper arms that had corroded a bit thin to holed in places. Painted black you wouldn't know.

I was supposedly given an option to buy the last two rear hubs in Toyota hands in 2017 so no surprise they have now long gone . The dust shields might be easy enough to fabricate by a decent metal basher apart from maybe their rounded edges. They were just plates spot welded onto the hub.

I had the same issues with my 'new' Toyota bars being scratched and with rusted welds. You have to pay a lot for that Toyota quality. Looks like the rear hubs have a spacer bar on them and no dust shield, I've never seen that setup before; which company supplied those?

16" alloys, not much. Usually around £200. 17" alloys different story, these days around £2k for mint. They do actually sell at that price. Your aftermarket exhaust unless a recognised brand like HKS or Blitz will be scrap value. If one of the branded then people ask £350 or there abouts. Whether they get that is another question. Fluids best tipped down your recycle centre unless unopened, then fleabay is your friend. Not many people are excited with covers so probably fleabay item that would be the best way to get shot.

In my old Castrol days 50 weight oils or even 60 weight oils were either for vintage engines built on massive tolerances, knackered engines that had developed massive tolerances with a bit of bearing slap or in endurance racing where engines would run at their hottest for a long time. In a good condition and normal (non endurance) usage standard engine 50 and above were seen a a drag on horsepower and giving higher than optimal back pressure on the oil pump. Latest oils are 20 weight, in the 1990's they were 30 of 40 weight weight, in the 1950's they were 50 weight.

I'm surprised Opie are recommending 10W50 for the 2JZ engine when Toyota specified a 10W30 oil from new. For the 6sp gearbox we discovered a couple of years back that Citroen have reintroduced the OE Exxon (now Mobil) gear oil for one of their vehicles, there is a sticky on this. It is believed that is not a fully synthetic product so it will have different gasket and ring seal properties to a modern synthetic oil. There is a sticky thread on the gear oil and the details about the Peugeot/Citroën ATF D 21065, code is 9730AC plus a link to where to get the oil from.

For a new build engine that has not been builder or factory run in then you need a build oil and not any off the shelf general running oil. This is because build oils have a very specific task to bed things in properly, so some wear is required on lobes, shafts, ring edges and on honing marks. The things you don't want in a build oil is detergents (all running oils have detergents). These are additives used in running oils to maintain the oil condition from oxidation arising from heat and blow by products, running oils might be in the engine for 20,000 miles a break in oil isn't so it doesn't need them. Detergents slow down the bedding process so you don't want them. In the video I link they talk about TBN (total base number) being a bad thing, detergents are the additives with the TBN. You don't want any friction modifiers at all, no molly additives anywhere near. Friction modifiers will kill the bedding process pretty much stone dead. They aren't common in running oils but they are used in some more specialist 'high performance' products from the smaller lube companies. So avoid friction 'enhanced' oils like the plague. You do want ZDDP, I'd say at least 1200ppm with tops 2,000ppm. That is purely a personal viewpoint though. Some oils come super dosed with ZDDP, Lucas Oil do one with 3,000ppm. That is too much anti-wear for a bedding in breaking in oil. Some ZDDP marketed oils only contain 600ppm, that's on the low side of being much use. So look for the break in oils with over 1,000ppm but no more than 2,000ppm. I'd go for the closer to the top of the range the better myself, all oils 40 years ago had 2,000ppm pretty much as standard. This video, with really bad sound quality, gives an engineers viewpoint on build oils and they make a lot of good points in a non chemistry kind of way. As a one time chemist myself I find their tech speak smile inducing but they know a lot more about the metallurgical side of things than I would ever hope to know. Selecting the manufacturer of the oil you have two choices, the big boys like Mobil, Quaker State, Castrol, Shell etc who do their own in-house formulation work and engine testing or you go for a small outfit who will buy in an additive package, blend it with a provided recipe of base oils and market a product that has only ever been engine tested by their additive package provider. Companies like Morris Lubricants who operate out of a 6 acre blending shop and warehouse in the centre of Shrewsbury won't have run an engine test in their history.

You can lead a horse but sometimes. I know a little bit about oils, I worked for Castrol for a good few years and some of that in the product development labs blending and formulating engine oils from components (not the ad pack type of blending). You are best reading around the subject matter yourself and I gave you pointers where to focus your efforts. That way you will be taking an informed decision yourself on your break in oil and not one persons recommendation, which is by its very nature an individuals viewpoint. If you read around the subject area, you'll learn something and be better for it. Mineral break in oils are fine btw. Synthetic oils, unless ester or PAO based which are rare these days are all mineral oil based. Its just solvent refined mineral oil, still mineral oil though.