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rider

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Everything posted by rider

  1. rider
    That relay unit did come in either blue or red, located in the dash behind the glove box? i was referring to the remote module. Keron is probably as good a person as any to approach for this part 85980 14070.
  2. rider
    I didn't know any Supras have a red c/l module. I thought they are all black and blue? Are you sure its an original fit unit? It'd also help if you mention what car you have as the c/l modules are different depending on which market the car was destined for. A jspec module is different from a UK module which I believe is also different to a USA spec module. Their location also varies from under passenger seat to behind the steering wheel column.
  3. rider
    Those are the front bush and its lower washer similar to the ones I fitted on my pre-facelift but the sub frame is the same for all Supras with the only difference being beefier cross member bars on the pre facelift secured by 3 bolts whereas the thinner facelift ones have one bolt either end.
  4. rider
    The part has just arrived. Lying bastards at Euro Car Parts. Its a Koyo bearing rather than SKF. Koyo have a excellent rep though so could be worse.
  5. rider
    Thats the engine i have ordered it for. It popped up on a google search against the Toyota part number 13505-46041.
  6. rider
    Its timing belt change for my Supra next year and the tensioner plus pulley are both original so figured they may as well get changed out as well this time. I have bought in a SKF pulley from euro car parts that was discounted to £9.98 delivered. These pulleys usually come in at around £30. Toyota OEM quote for the genuine part is £136.58.
  7. rider

    Front skuttle panel

    rider replied to Dave's topic in Supra Chat

    I just clean my scuttle up using Autoglym Vinyl And Rubber Care on occasions and it still looks brand new even when it was an outside car for a good number of years. I'd say keep cleaning rather than painting which whichever way you do it will look like its been painted. PS - If there are dull parts due to pitting or minor scratches you want to reduce or eliminate then Brasso works really well as an abrasive cleaner. You can also use that metal cleaner effectively on your plastic headlights to restore clarity.
  8. rider

    Hid kits

    rider replied to Boyne's topic in mkiv Technical

    I had the 55W fitted to my Supra in the past and they work fine with the current wiring so long as they have the canbus ballast. Binned since the new MOT regs came into force in the UK which meant the aftermarket fitment of HID is an automatic fail item so on nightbreaker bulbs now which seem perfectly adequate as an upgrade to the traditional halogen bulbs.
  9. rider
    For £20 this would be worthwhile having a look at. I'd cut the wire as close to the sensor as possible and solder the new sensor onto the old wire to try to fashion a new sensor as these Lexus ones are too short for the Supra but have the same pickup and shape on the sensor head. Let us all know how you get on.
  10. rider
    The red Supra does look the pick of the bunch but I need to add that I always did think if I was ever going to buy a second Supra it should be a red one. Not particularly sold on the kit car TV special look, those wide wings on a busy wrap to me just make the headlights look like they are the wrong shape in the wrong position. There was certainly a lot of variety on stand this year so I'm sure that should have pulled lots of punters onto the stand for a chat so big kudos for Ian and Jackie who always organise the event impeccably.
  11. rider
    There is an eBay listing in Canada for a RHD subframe set including all hardware for just over £1k. Only downside is the ABS sensor wires have been cut - why do people do that? Bit of a bargain price for anyone in need of these parts, it'd end up about £1.7k landed taxes paid though I'm sure they would take a offer being RHD in the land of LHD.
  12. rider
  13. rider
    I recently bought and fitted a heater matrix for one of my cars, $12 matrix which equated to £18 delivered taxes paid. Different World but at least in the old cars the heaters were a stuck on afterthought (often an optional extra) rather than a buried integration which makes swapping out a lot easier, still not easy but easier.
  14. rider
    To fit a new, proper one, it'll need to be a glass out job. I had Autoglass do that but they refused to cover any damage as they couldn't get a replacement screen if it broke so it was at my own risk. Thankfully they didn't break it.
  15. rider
    The oven treatment burns off all organic material and the company also sold it to me as a process that also converts the rust to loose powder that is then easily and effectively dissolved in a acid dip. So, baking is an added stage to just dipping then galvanizing. The oven treatment and galvanizing cost me £120 + VAT which included the transfer of part from the oven company to the galvaniser which meant I only had to drop off once and pick up once. Handy seeing it was 35 miles away from home and a few miles between the factories. If it were me doing it again, I'd get it oven baked first.
  16. rider
  17. rider
    A treated and dipped frame can get inside the sections and all the places you otherwise cannot reach. I ended up painting my frame but I could have just run the blinged up version.
  18. rider
    This was the group I used in the West Midlands who also have a plant in your area. They put me in touch with a oven stripping company and coordinated the movement from the stripper to their facility.
  19. rider
    I sent my sub frame off to a stripper then galvaniser, well worth considering as it's not that expensive and removes all the rust and also add 0.1mm to the thickness.
  20. rider
    You don't want to turn the cam bolt otherwise you could strip the bolt thread on the nut seeing it's only a half thread anyway. Then you'll never unwind the nut. The easy way, if there is an easy way, I have used is to drill a series of holes along one flat of the holding nut then hit with a cold chisel. You could use a nut cracker if you have one. Once the nut is cracked or split wide enough open then the bolt can be easily hammered out. I figured it was a much better use of my time to do this than spend a long time with a grinder and dodging a stream of sparks.
  21. rider
    ..........
  22. rider
    The wheel arch is double skin with weld spot marks along its length. Where these marks are would suggest to me that its had fender/arch protectors clipped onto the arches at some time in its life and the clips have left a small impression in the paint.
  23. rider
    It's got to be a teaser ad. Sorry mate, that's sold but over here .................
  24. rider
    Not unless its had some trim clipped onto them.
  25. rider
    The part numbers are 52205-14020 & 52205-14010 for the rear mounts and 52271-14070 for the front mounts. You can replace the rear bushes with poly or solid alternatives and there is a youtube video on someone doing that with solid bushes. You will likely need to go for an aftermarket options as these parts in genuine OEM guise were very hard to find when I was buying them in 2017. This is a link to an option for the two others.
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