rider

There is a refurbed red powder coated one on eBay now. Looks OK but on a refurbed bar you will not know if the bush area has filler covering wear.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-RAV4-PRADO-SUPRA-SURF-SOARER-STARLET-YARIS-TOWNACE-PETROL-DIESEL-FUEL-CAP/324002418365?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota&hash=item4b700c8ebd:g:PcYAAOSwBahVLpIk

These have been discontinued since before 2017. People will need to start repairing the OE bars with weld in bush area tube sections if they need to stay OEM. Should be easy enough to cut and then weld in new tubing and still keep the same rigidity at the drop links.

At least its a jspec so no need for Tyson to see the scoop and start fretting.

With the diff mount I found that a few hours in the freezer made all the difference. It went from no way they were going in to then being susceptible to be whacked in with a sledgehammer. It only took about 15 hits (solid taps rather than a full swing) to drive home fresh out of the freezer. The front mounts are split and slide in like hot butter by comparison.

I have a spare door sticker somewhere. Just had a quick look and cannot track it down but its somewhere. From memory its a foil sticker so not your normal vinyl or paper effort.

There is are two eBay auction sets on sale now in Yorkshire, including a 17" Lexus set, that will go cheap. All you need to do is arrange your own courier pickup. Alternatively you could post up your location and request for someone here who lives close by you to lend you their spare set as I think a lot of us now do have two sets of wheels.

I went last month on a tour of the Morgan Car factory in Malvern. You get to walk through all the production centres starting off in the chassis centre where all the suspension parts are added to the frame. Morgan do make their own control arms, I saw them pressing in the bushes. The rest is bought in and the setup looked a pretty standard configuration. The Ford or BMW engines are fitted along with respectively a Ford or Getrag gearbox. Then onto the body and carpentry shops. This is where all the activity really is with craftsmen fettling and sculpting parts out of wood and aluminium. By far the most interesting part of the tour. Finally the body parts and rolling chassis with drive gear are joined and it's off to the paint shop (you aren't allowed in there). Then final interior and exterior trim fit and ready for sale. I left the works thinking that Morgan Cars isn't actually a car company, its a coach builder.

If it is the same ignition breakdown cause that Ben had leading to unburnt fuel entering into the exhaust it's unlikely to be coil packs as you have your car down as a NA5. It could still be over fuelling from poor ignition, lead or plug failure. So if it is something that only occurs when the car is running at normal temperature (including in the exhaust) it'd be a good idea start looking into you distributor, leads and plugs.

That sounds like it could be exhaust popping from over fuelling. If it is that you'd only ever get the detonation when everything is hot, not on first start up or when cold.

These aren't cheap, bloody expensive actually - I bought a set in November 2017 55905-14200 - £5.98 + VAT 55905-14210 - £5.98 + VAT 55905-14220 - £5.15 + VAT 55905-14230 - £5.98 + VAT 55905-14240 - £5.12 + VAT 55905-14250 - £4.51 + VAT 55905-14260 - £4.49 + VAT 55905-14270 - £5.24 + VAT 55905-14280 - £5.12 + VAT 55905-14290 - £5.12 + VAT 55905-14300 - £7.10 + VAT 55905-14310 - £7.12 + VAT

There are lots of comments online about improved shift with RP Syncromax but I have to say I haven't noticed any difference in the box feel changing from the OE oil to the RP oil. But my gearbox works fine with a very mechanical feel like all V160 boxes have but no notchiness or baulking. The commentators often switched to RP because they had problems with gear selection - often referred to as 3rd being temperamental. So, if you are experiencing notchiness then give it a go.

I have read some bad comments about Redline transmission oils as they push the seal swell to the upper limit which commentators say has introduced leaks. I like the look of the Castrol Transmax Import ATF from the viscosity and oil composition data so I'll research more on that. It is a dexron III fluid but that isn't going to be a problem. There doesn't seem to be much information shared with this fluid in the V160 gearbox application relative to the use of Castrol Transmax Z that I found in a quick search. I think the gist is but I haven't confirmed it yet that the Import is a synthetic blend and the Z is a fully synthetic. I don't know yet if the original OE oil which is presumed to be the Esso dexron II oil was enhanced mineral oil, part synthetic or fully synthetic. I know all synthetic oils, particularly in the 80's and 90's which is when I worked in the product development side of the oil lubricant business did have problems keeping the swell of gasket and seal materials down. This was never properly addressed by changing the swell characteristics of the oils but more by changing the gasket and seal materials to those that didn't swell as much. So, putting fully synthetic oils into old parts can lead to seals and gaskets weeping and I think that's likely what has happening with my V160. Whether that is recoverable with changing the oil to an alternative only time can tell but sometimes seals can recover.

The original Toyota 08885-01306 oil was rumoured to be Esso ATF Dexron D-21065 (a Dexron II fluid) that got rebranded to Mobil ATF Dexron D-21065 after Mobil bought out Exxon and now seems to be latest offering Mobil ATF 220. Has anyone used the Mobil ATF Dexron D-21065 or ATF 220? The reason I'm asking is I changed out the OE oil for RP Synchromax about 2k miles ago and where the box was bone dry there are now two small oil leaks so I'm thinking the switch to synthetic may be finding weaknesses in the seals and I should revert to a refined mineral product if there are still those in dexron II guise available. The Mobil oils are much cheaper than the old supplies of the Toyota oil still available from mainly USA sources; these work out about $100/l these days. Back in the day, about 10 years ago now, the equivalents to the Esso ATF Dexron D-21065 available from other suppliers were Shell ATF Dexron II D-21666 and Total Dexron II D-20356. I haven't checked if these are still available.

You can respray the calipers yourself or brush paint without splitting. any 3rd party painting or coating the calipers is going to want them stripped down and you aren't going to then be refitting the original rubbers back in - they usually tear coming out and also often tear going in so best left alone if possible. You can get the piston boots on eBay for not a lot of money and push those into the bores over the piston and recessed boot that are fitted. That way you won't be painting up over the rubber boots and pistons and have only minimal fine brush touch up to do around the upper edge of the piston bore.

I trawled through the whole Supra Chat forum 18 months ago and from that a red mod (mawby) then switched the identified project threads into the projects forum. Think there was about 12 threads moved over at the time. So, in essence you'd need to start a new thread with an appropriate title - preferably with the word project in the title so it can be easily identified as a project thread in a search. Once well into it or when completed you can ask to have it reviewed by an empowered mod who could then move it into the projects section of the forum if they deem it worthy. It'd be nice to have the projects forum cleaned up in any revamp into sub sections builds, renovations and restorations as it's just a catch all at the moment.

They, as in the safety people, always say you should never split 4 pot calipers as you can introduce fluid leakage between the banks of calipers when they are rejoined.

The one thing really wrong with a Corvette other than its a leap of faith to overtake anything is that in UK parking spaces you only have 40cm maximum available to open each/both doors unless you happen to be a blue badge user.

There is a cheap TT set on eBay for £435 delivered. I have a really cheap set sold to me claimed off a fresh import 40k mile car that had a single conversion. I've been planning to have them refurbed and then hold as spares but I'd be willing to let them go if someone needs them for what I paid for them, which is £250 pick up price.

Updated again with current code

Just put the charger onto the car charge setting led and leave it to do its thing. It should then cycle up through the lights and have the double green lit after a day or so. If you don't get to the green status then you can consider reconditioning but you shouldn't look to recondition a already fully or near fully charged battery. It won't happen, to recondition it needs to be drained so it can be high current 'flashed'.

Lidl are apparently doing a Panasonic 42" Smart TV deal for £200 tomorrow. That's a proper deal rather than all these Amazon deals where you can find the discounted things usually at the same normal price elsewhere. If you need a razor buy a razor, if you need a TV word is head down to Lidl.

You could try out the later version toyota/lexus module to see if that works. Plenty of those for sale around the £20 mark. All in black.