rider

As for thinking of going for a lower profile tyre to increase grip, that is entirely the wrong direction. A higher profile tyre or smaller wheel will give more flex in the tyre which increases the grip under acceleration. Fit standard 16 inch wheels (on a jspec) with a soft 50 profile tyres and that'll help.

I must be doing something wrong as I have never managed a wheel spin in the dry, although it is something very easily achieved in the wet. The Falken tyres are quite a soft compund tyre. Good for grip but not the longest life tyres around. So you can't really move to a much grippier tyre. Assuming the tread is in good shape, your only option to increase grip would be to go for a wider tyre and drop the pressure a little. Myself, I find its best to leave the launch starts for dry conditions and the premium (Bridgestones at the moment) 245's grip all day long.

What happens if your cats decide to attack or go bouncing on one of these?

I used these to bring a new 35kg differential over from the USA be FedEx 2 day service (had to be new or have a clean of oil certificate for them to ship from USA by air) and only cost £120 + insurance when other quotes were £650 - £4,600. They have the customs forms online if you are handling the paperwork, they are easy enough to fill in. The 2 day service ended up being three as FedEx required payment of taxes prior to delivery.

Things seem to happen with updating and refreshing the forum, then to use car terminology quickly stall. I don't think the new mod setup is in place yet so seeing a red mod anywhere close by is a very rare occurance.

There is an Aussie site that goes through the car manufacturers models and E10 compatibility and with regard to the Supra they mention anything post May 1993 is compatible. Super unleaded is not affected so anyone running the expensive stuff will carry on as today. Apparently, those running with 95 fuel may benefit from a tune up to cater for a leaner burn with E10 fuel. Seeing a lot of us only do a few hundred miles a year moving to the Super stuff shouldn't be a major financial hardship. Aussie link

There is an Aussie site that goes through the car manufacturers models and E10 compatibility and with regard to the Supra they mention anything post May 1993 is compatible. Super unleaded is not affected so anyone running the expensive stuff will carry on as today. Apparently, those running with 95 fuel may benefit from a tune up to cater for a leaner burn with E10 fuel. Seeing a lot of us only do a few hundred miles a year moving to the Super stuff shouldn't be a major financial hardship. Aussie link

Makes you wonder why the Denso coil is £160 from Toyota, each. Mind you, I've still got the original coils in my car after 24 years so that is probably why.

I used to live in Reading and I always recall one weekend sunny day I took my then black beauty MkIII Turbo for a blast. We are talking 25 years ago here. Into Oxfordshire doing an A road loop towards Oxford swinging around to Henley and back into Caversham. I got out of the car physically shaking because I'd frightened myself so much, a great I'm really alive feeling. It was one of those driver harmony moments when it was a driving dream. Fast forward to today if I were to repeat the process and there are 2.5 times as many cars on the road. Oxfordshire has 30mph and 40mph speed limits everywhere and anyone who knows the area will like me wonder why when there are hedges hiding fields on both side of the road. Back in the day there were lots of three lane A roads, now converted to double white lines for miles and miles. Radar 25 years ago was a copper pointing a gun looking rather sheepish trying to hide behind a tree. Its all a lot more sophisticated today. There just isn't the scope to get blasting like there used to be. I now sub the 100mph 'A' road blasting with lets take that bend at 35mph with foot flat to the floor in my MGB and do a bit of tyre squeal and tramping to get my driving thrills. I do often still recall that Supra day I really frightened myself though with a big grin, it was great and although lots of other road users were passed by at some considerable speed, none were harmed in the process. All drivers have to look forward to now, in the coming years, are the new GPS location speed adherence offerings mandated by the EU from 2022. What joy awaits in a controlled driving environment where dashobards will bing at you for being reckless and propulsion power will be cut if you ever dare to venture over the prescribed, for your safety, speed limit. I can imagine the moment in 2040 there will be owners of then 65 year old MkIV Supras grinning madly as there blast past traffic at 10mph over the speed limit.

I know. Its never run better. All new OE suspension and bushes. Overhauled brakes. Recent new intercooler and clutch (its amazing the difference they made to restoring the cars performance, you don't really notice it fading away over the years until you renew some parts). Chassis tune. Note to self, take the Supra on the annual road trip rather than the MGB roadster this year. I am going to look at an MGC roadster on Saturday though, if I buy that the temptation might be too much to resist for a MGC road trip. Too many cars, that is part of the problem.

I've covered nearing on 100k miles in my Supra. I used to do 12k miles a year, now more like 200 miles. I'd probably do more if it were sunny, pleasantly warm and dry more often than it is for the 6 months the car is taxed. I find these days I'm drawn towards my Range Rover when I leave the house as it is a very comfortable place to be. Its true though that others (all males from 5 years up) do like seeing the Supra being used and other drivers are often keen to converse whilst waiting at lights so maybe we owe it to the rest of mankind to get the cars out more often than we actually do.

If you cannot get an OE replacement then there are alternatives you can try. 1. If your car is an outdoor car then long periods of wet weather have been known to knock the c/l out. You may well find that it starts working again in a few weeks time when its gone through a period of not so wet weather. If, however, your car is a garaged car then the long period of very wet weather is almost certainly not going to be your cause. 2. There are lots of generic kits available, oodles on eBay and they start at a little over £10. Any competent auto electrician should be able to fit one of these to restore your c/l.

I think these things will never lose their value and I'd expect they will only add more value. I bought a set of OEM wheels, not because I needed a set of 17" OEM wheels but I figured for the £350 outlay they will likely add £2k to the cars value one day. Anything large and highly visible and OEM will more than pay for itself; from steering wheels, to bumpers, to dash panels, to seats, to air boxes to road wheels. Grab them while you can.

Just PM your address and I'll post them over - no charge.

PS - if your coil clips are brittle and broken then your number 7 loom clips will likely be well past their best to.

I'm not entirely sure what you are after. I have a few pigtail connectors so you can have a couple of those if that is what you are looking for.

Just started to refurb the rear set of spare calipers I have (bought a couple of years ago as a good set just that were replaced for a larger upgrade), to get them ready to fit before the May MOT. I do get concerned for peoples well being when I find two of the four slider pins completely seized and after a lot of twisting and big hammer on chissel banging to get them out of the carrier it becomes clear what the problem is; not a smear of grease ever made it anywhere near to these pins. Both of the calipers had the flexible lines still attached, torqued down to require a three foot breaker and one without any sealing washers. Some people do scarey things with their brakes, where nicely painted seems to just about do it. At least the rears don't have to do much of the stopping work. If people can't do their brakes right, I'd recommend that its something really best left alone and trusted to others.

Not those, there is a pair of power folding ones for over £500. As for what counts for good value the outer and glass cost $500 non folding before shipping and taxes. The advantage with new would at least be it'd be colour coded to the car.

There have been a couple up on eBay for a while, one silver and one black. Both £150 from the same seller.

DPD as they are reasonably priced, not the cheapest and have fantastic tracking.

That's something thats about as long as an elasticated rope. As new could mean renewing and refreshing all the underside components and tackling any rust as well. To get to all the possible rust areas that is going to include dropping out the rear sub frame. Then, you might as well tidy that up and get that treated and galvanized. Where do you stop? I spent well over 100 hours of my time looking and dealing with the underneath of my car and spent over £10k cash on bits and parts you will never see. Then there are companies that say they can spray the raptor in under a week for a couple of grand whereas my refurb if I paid for my time was more a £15k effort. My best recommendation would be to get a very detailed written breakdown from every company you contact on exactly what they will do to the car so you know what you are getting for a price. Better still would be do it, or oversee it yourself. There may well be companies out there who would be happy for the owner to get involved and muck in, then you could see exactly what has been done and also what needs or is needing doing.

They are called the right and left rear frame body mounts. You could still buy those in 2017 under the facelift part numbers. Though, that was a while ago so they have probably gone by now.

brake fluid

If you wet the seals before fitting and drop one half on top of the other, then hand tighten a couple of bolts and you should be OK I've split calipers because it does make servicing a lot easier and they have been fine when rejoined, just needs some extra care in re-assembly.