rider

Do you have the tapped bolt hole? It should be easy enough to fabricate if you want to fit them. I assume they were put there for a reason.

You'll see at the front of the bush in the linked picture a clamp. If you have a M10 bolt hole just in front of the front cushion then that is where the clamp bolts to. It is probably 4mm angled steel that clamps over the top of the cushion edge to secure the cushion in its socket. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20150104/742b1fa969c6ffb7028111fc2e779510.jpg and on the front of my frame http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=223536&d=1510064748

Its all making my subframe look a bit messy by comparison. I baulked at the new knuckle and back plate costs even though Toyota Oxford offered me a restocked parts special at the time. You'll probably find it a lot easier to torque all the sub frame arms while it is still off the car. All you need to do is raise the arms to the level (ride height) position on a jack or hydralic table and torque away. You'll never get as good access to all the bolts and setting the hubs at ride height than you do now. If you set the cams to what was originally position then you will be close enough to get the car safely to a proper alignment shop. Only useful tip I can offer up is to use an impact drive on the ball joint bolts initially to avoid having the joints spin in their socket when you come to tighten to the final torque. I found if you just go with a socket and ratchet they just spin away where the impact snugged them down nicely. You'll need to recycle a pair of front bush clamps as they were discontinued when I was looking for a pair back in 2017. Hope it all goes well for you with the refitting, my biggest fear was that I might have damaged one of the ABS sensors during the whole process but I fortunately didn't.

Its a big thing in Classic Mini World and its a well known phenomena that a great many cars are not really as suggested by their VIN plate or other stamped numbers due to the availability of to order plates and punches. Mk1 and 2 Coopers are coming out of the woodwork from every angle. this also happens with a lot of the cherished American Muscle cars taking on GT or SS guises from more humble origins. Maybe Supra World will ride the same road in the future where many more cars will carry a V160 or V161 VIN tag, probably a BMW gearbox and only those with expertise in the cars history and varients will know what to look for under the surface.

The ad is still there 3 days later. If you look through the eBay car ads, at least under classic cars, there are about 100 listings using clearly grabbed images located 45 miles from me with similar lack of detailed desctiption on the cars as this particular posting has. You cannot really call it an advert, more a send me your money if you are stupid enough. There was a tasty e-type roadster for under £10k recently. eBay is loving it though, all these classified ad fees so it has no incentive to do anything about it and you could say why should they as its a pay to advertise contact they have with 'sellers'and they are advertising so keeping up their end of the arrangement. I gave up reporting ads to eBay years ago as they would rarely get pulled and if you embarked on a personal mission to do that with dodgy car ads you'd be kept busy all day long.

If you want to replace your wonky stubby aerial I fitted (it has sticky tape to slap it onto a surface so no real fitting required), in about 1 minute, one of these very cheap (cost me under £5) eBay under dash antennas into my MGB that you plug into the head unit and a 12V ingnition on feed. It works really well. It's something I bought probably about a year ago as the MGB didn't have any aerial fitted and with all the spare time these days I got around to adding it to the car and have a fully working radio for the first time ever in 6 years of ownership with just CD and bluetooth over that time. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/123622689637?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=123622689637&targetid=878706529565&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045417&poi=&campaignid=9794911188&mkgroupid=101625062844&rlsatarget=pla-878706529565&abcId=1139126&merchantid=113403051&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5d2j68LO6AIVR7TtCh3hAQs8EAQYBSABEgLOcvD_BwE

As a side issue facing business owners we are finding our glorious customers are either delaying or witholding payments on our February invoices. If this is a general thing happening out there then the knock on effect of companies falling like dominoes will be rapid as they run out of cash while carrying overheads against no or reduced revenue. Anyone with lots of money could be facing good times ahead with lots of cheap businesses on the liquidation market. Anyone without lots of money, well that may be a slightly differnt outcome.

Couple of reasons to be unhelpful really. I figured first up that there aren't many employers around the forum, there aren't many of anything, so the link would be pretty useless for most. Secondly the information from the web link may become outdated very quickly, superceded by events so what is potentially very useful information today could be misinformation in a weeks time.

I've been searching the Government and HMRC sites long and hard. for days, looking for information aimed at employers on how to administer and claim staff retention payments during the Coronavirus lockdown. I finally found a page on the Government website that was published at the end of last week. It does contain important eligability information so if anyone was like me, wondering htf to administer the government initiatives around the coronavirus retention programme then this could be what you are looking for. PM me if you wish a copy of the page link.

I've no idea what these cost new in the UK but Whifbitz who are never knowingly cheap will do a shiny new set for £1,700. I checked one of the US suppliers I use for Toyota parts (McGeorge) and they run to $984 new, plus of course freight and duty which I'd expect would then land around £1,150. Not wishing to piss on your chips but £1,000 plus delivery for poorly painted second hand calipers and used rotors is probably going to prove to be a tad optimistic. Try them on Facebook though, people don't seem to be as price sensitive there as they are on the forum.

Is the car on the level and are you bleeding with the pump live? Ignition on with light pedal pressure? Its better (easier) as a two man job.

I've read some sites say 6 and some say 12 months so it probably means wait until the information appears on the Government website for a definitive duration on the MOT extension. I've heard back from my insurer and they say the scheme as they understand it will be an extension to the current certificated period rather than a waiver for any car that was under 40 years old that didn't actually have a current MOT at the time of the moritorium.

I haven't ventured into any shops but I have been driving past the local retail park and today dropped in for fuel at the supermarket pumps. The retail park was rammed over the weekend but, it was really quiet today. It's amazing what happens when McDonalds closes down but potentially good news for shelves being fully restocked soon. It's beginning to look like some people have finally figured out that those 100 toilet rolls fought over will last anyone a good amount of time and the primeval needs have at last been satisfied.

I had a service/MOT booking for the Supra in April that has been cancelled as the garage and seperate MOT testing station are both closing from this Friday due to the Coronavirus outbreak. Good news is that the Government is introducing a MOT waiver from the end of the month for 12 months to give time for things to get back to normal. It looks like I'm going to lose my run of 19 consecutive MOT certificates so I'll be adding a printout to the cars history file covering the missing period. I've emailed the insurer for confirmation that they are up to spped with this and running without a MOT from April 1st will not be one of those get away without paying clauses that they love to employ. A requirement of my policy is that the car has a current MOT to be insured, including if its nicked or spontaneously combusts. This is not a universal requirement so its best to check the small print on your own policy documents.

I saw a bbc report on China where volunteers drove health workers to and from work (public transport was closed down) and delivered drugs to homes for pharmacies. Seemed like a good idea with 100,000 volunteers. Maybe you could organise something like that here, got to be good for some TV time.

There was a pair sold recently on fleabay for £499 so £300 for one looks reasonable.

I haven't been anywhere near to a shop for two weeks. Before I venture out, whats it like out there? Looks from the media that everyone is pushing tollies full of bog rolls around for no good reason at all.

I had a set of OEM brakes advertised and sold as in good working order, just removed to make way for upgrades. One caliper was a very cheap aftermarket effort. One had a seized piston and two had seized slider pins that had never seen any grease in their presumably short lives. I personally would have thrown them in the bin rather than sell them on in that condition but not everyone is like that. I'd only ever buy new or reconditioned brakes these days and £1,000 for someone elses cast off's is asking a lot.

I have a set of excellent condition OEM bilsteins, with excellent condition OEM coil springs and OEM dust covers. You just can't get these new any longer. If interested PM an offer.

98mm is an unusual size, you can get 4 inch solid steel bars. Seeing you bought a press to do the bearings why not buy a lathe and turn to a 98mm pipe with 5mm wall. Or find a friend with a lathe. Or a engineering workshop, it shouldn't cost a lot as it'd be a quick turning job. https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/c6/round/c2237/bright-round/c134/4-(101.6mm)-dia/p14742

Oven baking and galvanizing is much better as blasting will never get inside the frame to remove all the rust that baking, acid dipping and galvanizing takes care off. Its not expensive either, £300 from memory.

One of the most optimistic ads ever.

I had a stolen car returned after a few days missing and wished it hadn't been. The steering lock was barrelled and the replacement barrell didn't fit the cowling hole as it should and the door and ignition keys were never again one and the same. The repairs were less expensive than the insurance excess so I sourced the parts and did the repairs. Paying to have a stolen car recovered is something that benefits the insurer. Akin to banks selling their bad debt provision to punters under PPI. It's a great business idea to have customers pay for something that is only there to save the company money.

I have old cars insured for over £30k on agreed value with Hiscox (via Hagerty) and no requirement to fit a tracker. I'd suggest you change insurer unless you live in a dodgy area or park your car in dodgy areas in which case you might want a tracker if you have a strong desire to have a stolen car returned.

There is an excellent overnight accomodation close to Center Gravity to at Abbey Farm Bed and Breakfast. Massive rooms and inexpensive and the son absolutely loved my Supra, way more than what all the Porsche owners visiting Center Gravity usually park up there. They spent 5 hours fettling with my setup which shows their level of commitment and the transformation made it very good value for money. I was so impressed I even left a nice review on Google Maps.