rider

I think it'd look plain wrong if you glued a flat slab of perspex over the hole in the tialgate. As for a proper fit option scratching shouldn't be a problem especially seeing you have removed the rear wiper. Didn't wheeler dealers or maybe it was Car SOS get a curved rear screen bespoke manufactured in glass in the Midlands somewhere for one of their cars? Maybe someone can recall what series, what car and which episode that occurred. Apparently new glass can be formed and cut from a CAD generated mould these days. Probably not cheap but it'd be proper automotive standard toughened glass. Alternatively, there are US and Japanese sites still listing the blue tint facelift rears for around $350 in the USA or $1,000 in Japan, I don't think the US specs ever had the blue tint which may be why they still have prices up indicating they have stocks. Maybe one of those with a dark inside vinyl tint wouldn't look out of place. If it were me I'd hold out for a scrap tailgate. Enough of these cars are front ended out of existance to ensure there will always be tailgates cropping up now and again.

I was told a good 10 years ago that the tailgate glass was a discontinued item on the pre-facelift tint so I had to agree for the glass to be taken out at my own risk. I don't think you'll have much of a chance of seeing one these days without the rest of the boot lid attached and those are now fetching big money. What isn't in Supra World? Probably be best starting with Keron for a breaker.

Not this particular everyone. There are quite a few changes for an unmolested example. It could be worthwhile giving some detail on the gearbox and diff work. Was it and is it still a factory V160 manual with LSD diff and have the ratios been altered or was it just synchro or seal work on the original box? It's unusual to have a major transmission and differential overhaul especially on a super low mileage car unless the owner is looking to change the drive ratio as the one thing the Supra is famous for is its bulletproof engine and drive gearing.

I was looking at options to rubber or plastic coat steel fuel lines for my American car and although the coatings have been around for a good number of year I've never really heard of them or of people using them here in the UK. I'm wondering why as the paint is pretty cheap (£100 for 5l) and if you want to change colour you can spray over it easily with a differnt colour. Comes in spray cans or liquid. Another common application is to rubber grip metal handles on tools. If you tire of it, just peel it off. Has anyone ever used this to do wheels, panels or what I'm thinking of for steel fuel and brake lines to give some corrosion protection? I'm tempted to go play with some just for the fun of it.

If you have the frame off and it has surface rust then you are best getting it oven baked, acid dipped and then galvanized as there will almost certainly be rust inside the frame as well that you'll never be able to get to any other way. That process will cost you around £350. On the arms, if the knuckle joints are in good stiff shape and the bushes aren't mush then clean up and repaint would be good, though the top arm isn't painted so that'll just need a clean and polish. You cannot get all the arms any longer new so if you need replacements then its going to have to be a few aftermarket options or polybushing your old ones. You can get grease needles for regreasing or adding grease into the joints through the rubber boot.

Just use your a/c, that'll keep all the glass clear. Unless thats not working either?

I just use the Karcher foamer, works fine as far as I can tell. Cannot recall what detergent I'm using but it has a saliva enhancing fruity aroma.

Back maybe 5 years ago you'd always see at least one set running on eBay but now, you very rarely see a set with caps ever advertised. So asking is probably the only way you'll ever get to see a set today. Can't imagine what the price is now, I paid £350 for a set in need of a refurb 3 years ago. I may well actually get around to having them sorted and booted this year. Good luck but its got to be a big money ticket in any condition now if you are looking for the pre-facelift wheels.

If its not parting then your drive shaft must be stuck in the hub. I must have been fortunate as my hubs just slid off with no effort needed. Words of workshop manual wisdom "Using a hammer, lightly tap the end of the drive shaft,disengage the axle hub and remove the drive shaft. NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the boots and speed sensor rotor of the drive shaft, and oil seal of the axle hub." Or you could use a big puller. Failing that WD40, two lengthy bars and plenty of muscle.

Have you checked the resistance of your coil? No resistance and its no good. Here is a link to the ignition system inspection guide

Do you actually check up on the Supra Registry to see if the composition of the car at birth matches the requested VIN setup rather than the V5 details? Or is it OK just to change the colour, the transmission and the engine information on the non genuine VIN plate? You can add on big money. Pay for that respray from silver in the new extra value of a VIN matching new colour, silver to red seems quite a popular choice. Possibly pay for the BMW 6 sp conversion and some by adding v160 to the VIN tag.

Many don't seem to realise how fortunate they are or were to have owned one of these cars. Its good to see you have bonded with yours. I've put all my modern cars on SORN and taxed the Supra for six months from the 1st of May having not road driven it for 7 months, on the second I smiled a lot. So long as the smiles carry on and everything on and about the car works what more could any car offer? Do you see it as a long term keeper?

Australia is the Worlds largest exporter of Iron Ore and China its largest customer. Its interesting to note that China is threatening to end beef and wine import from Australia but failed to mention Iron Ore.

Mk4 instead of A80. Damned Yanks.

I ship lots of car parts in from the USA from 20g Supra exhaust gaskets one at a time to a 35kg differential and it depends where you buy from. I could have paid £600 to ship the differential on a 'normal' shipper and the top price I was quoted was close to £2,000. In the end arranged the shipping myself for £65 on a FexEx premium 2 day service and did the import paperwork so I only paid 5% VAT on a historical car part. If I'd paid the £600 freight there would have been another £120 added to that for VAT. There are a few cheap shippers. Amazon.com is really cheap. I shipped over a heater matrix that cost £9 and ended up delivered duty paid for £18. I could have bought the part here in the UK for £75 if I really wanted to. Or I could have easily found a company that cost £60 to ship. RockAuto is another very low cost shipper that I use often and there is a 5% discount code for them I keep updated on a thread. Anyone wanting to bring big parts over then its often best to go surface freight but not always. Air freight charges drop dramatically in the peak summer months becuase everyone is on holiday and companies have the factory maintenance shutdown. There is a 6 week sweet spot in end June to beginnng of August when many parts companies will offer much lower ship rates. The lagest item I ever had Amazon ship over on a three day service was a 40kg clay trap for £60, compared to a cost of £100 to ship it 3 week surface. If you shop around to find the low cost shippers or those who will let you arrange a collection then parts are so much cheaper in the USA. Sometimes you can find a part is only 10% of the UK price which is crazy. Most of the time it'll be half price which gives plenty of scope to import and still secure a good price advantage. If you pay by credit card then the transaction is fully covered should there be an issue. Returns can be an issue but I've had a few problems over the year. Amazon doubled down on an order once, they just told me to keep the extra free rather than post back. I've had other suppliers send the wrong part and had the cost refunded and they say seeing its been their fault, keep the part or throw it away. Which I have always done via eBay. I've never had any issue importing from the USA that wasn't resolved fully. Iincluding a car I once purchased I must have spent around £40k with a good many US suppliers over recent years. Another tip for overseas buyers is use a Forex service to process a payment if its for a decent amount and the vendor is trustworthy. You don't get the credit protection seeing its a cash trqansaction but the better exchange rate is worth a good 2% saving over the rate that the card transaction will run with.

PS - they look like M8's to me

I happen to have a full set of brake and fuel lines hanging up on my garage wall ready to fit one day, maybe. The puppy picture is just to make it more interesting.

Are you planning on doing the Longden car show again this year? I'll be taking my Supra along if the event runs this July. That'd be a first to have two Supras there at the same time. There was a woman who brought a purple Supra one year. That car was rough as was, no better not.

I've bought over Supra parts from McGeorge. If you don't like their ship rates you can organise your own freight. Its better to do that if you can be arsed to as they ship USPS so its delivered by Royal Mail who add on a fair amount of extra delivery and handling costs.

You get these prices from toyota dealerships in the USA and I don't think their remit includes recycled parts. There are companies like Cardone that remanufacture Supra brakes for around $50 on an exchange basis or twice that if its on a sale basis. We are not known as treasure island by the car industry for no undeserved reason.

I don't know, things expand at different rates as they warm up so it could get tighter or looser as things heat up. The vibration even when braking left me wondering if the ABS was being tricked into operating by the resistance on one wheel Also the vibration was very similar to what you feel when the ABS kicks in. Maybe you could whip out the ABS fuse and see if that makes any difference. I'm no ABS expert so whether it can be conned by a sticking brake is not something I really know about, but whipping a fuse out is a simple enough thing to try.

I had an annoying vibration with my Range Rover between 65 and 80mph. Tracked it down in the end to a sticking n/s rear brake caliper. You would usually get an indication of this as an affected wheel is warmer than the others after a drive. A simple thing to check and remedy. I always like to start with the simple things to fix first. Interestingly, and somewhat strangely, braking never stopped the vibration.

In absolute mint factory colour, £650 - £700.

She is a regular commentator on Labour Party blogs and a proclaimed feminist, a professor in diversity with a bit of politics post grad thrown in. Useful stuff you know.