rider

Simple parts to print that would be really useful if anyone has the spare time and inclination would be all the undercarriage fuel/brake line plastic single pipe and 4 pipe clips. They cost a silly fortune from toyota so I never bothered replacing any when I had the underside torn down which I would have normally done as one or two were snapped.

I do sometimes wonder why people are still fitting FMIC's when you can buy deeper SMIC's and technology has moved on to liquid to air intercoolers or a/c assisted intercoolers for those looking for a hp boost with denser air.

Its amazing how people select or machine rotors using the rotor 'hat' to change the wheel offset. Apparently with a NSX, owners have reported that Stoptech rotors were 5mm wider than stock. I have learned over many years of problem solving to look at any possibility for a solution, however remote that it is the cause, starting off with the easiest first and swappping the rotors over or laying them side by side on a level surface comes in the about as easy as it gets book of possible solutions.

It could be something stupid like the brake discs aren't a pair and one happens to be a few mm thicker. But its certain that its either man inflicted or man introduced.

On average, an individual will claim against their insurance every 17 years. I was surprised it was that long but you have to assume with excesses to exceed and potential loss of no claims and premiums affected those claims need to be substantial ones to make it worthwhile. With the average Supra Mk4 now being 25 years then the law of averages would say lots of Supras have had at least one decent ding in their time. The different wheel placement isn't an issue thet ever affected new cars so its been introduced, by poorly fitted panels or parts or an accident knocking out the orientation/alignments. It wasn't a Toyota robotics design feature so it must be man made.

Using insurance statistics, every Supra on the road today will have had, on averaged, over one insurance claim in its lifetime. So, could this slight mis-alignment just be a consequence of a front end accident at some time in the very long life of the car?

Or about 600bhp more than the previous owner could handle. If you assume it has high lift cams fitted then if it doesn't - that'd be a got away with it kind of moment. Have fun with it.

Here is a page that gives you lots of manufacturer options so you should be able to find one for the right money.

The OEM gasket is a crushable ring. Cheap enough to buy. They are around £4 in the USA or £20 here. 90917-06056

Before you drop the tank cover and tank I'd recommend take the top cover off located under the space saver wheel, its easier. Then you can see if there are any leaks from the rubber pipes that run into the fuel delivery and return metal lines from the top of the tank. You will also be able to see how clean it is up there. I could have planted an entire forest with all the fine soil on the top of my tank and that had led to the breather pipe that runs from the tank to its outlet at the filler being buried and corroding away. So, if you find a lot of fine soil in there then your breather pipe could well have rusted away which could lead to fuel spillage if you have a habit of to the neck filling of your tank.

Everything comes to condition, then colour, then pricing position, then if postage is an option. I find that too many variables to think about.

You maybe need to mention if you are after green or blue tint or it doesn't matter? These do come up for sale on eBay quite often from a Japan based seller for big money - around £600 a side plus shipping plus taxes. But, they are discontinued. It's almost worth every long term owner buying a second car just as a donor car.

Thanks guys. If anyone has a ropy wheel or seat covers that they would like to tackle its something that doesn't require too much skill. Just an eye for detail. Tools used were sanding papers 240 and 300 grit used wet and dry to sand out scuffs and excess filler which had been applied using one of those throw away very flexible drinks stirrers. The initial coat of colour was applied with a cotton bud to get into all the nooks and tight places and edges safely then subsequent coats were applied using a dense sponge. The sealant is much thinner than the leather colourant so it cannot be effectively applied with a sponge (that just creates lots of bubbles which you really dont want), initial layer application was with a cotton bud and then the subsequent 4 layers were simply wiped on with a lint free cloth. All 8 layers were thin and its just a case of taking time to allow the layers to dry. I was doing a maximum of 2 coats a day and the job ran over 7 days in total, probably about 10 hours labour. The leather seats I refurbished on a friends 1960's car still look really good 2 years on so if your leather wheel or seat coverings annoy you and you can approach it confidently, then I'd suggest you give it a go.

Mating the wheel with the cetre horn boss, its a good colour match so I think the wheel is done.

I have a spare 3 spoke leather steering wheel that I bought a couple of years ago and having finally got around to removing it from the column I decided to refurbish it. I have done leather treatment on 1960's seats before so it's not something entirely new to me. The steering wheel hadn't been loved for a while and had a few minor dings and scrapes then needed looking at. Initial prep was an alcohol clean and light sanding, followed by repairs of the small dings with leather filler. In total, three coats of black colour restorer was applied to the steering wheel; 2 sections at a time. Then came the hardest part, applying the sealant - to get the gloss to a level I was happy with. I prefer more matt than gloss so I started off with a matt sealant layer. I didn't think that was going to look right so I did satin coats for the next two layers. then it was looking too shiny for my tastes so I finished off with two coats of 50:50 satin:matt mix. I cannot really recall what the new steering wheel looked like 2 decades ago but i think this is close, maybe still a little too shiny so I may not be finished, there might be another coat coming to the wheel soon. I've used vinyl cleaner on the horn push and overall, i'm very happy with the transformation from starting point to the finished wheel. I was intending to put it up for sale but the number of hours I've spent on it would likely price it out of the market today. The leather wheels are discontinued, though you can still buy the rubber compound wheels which is actually the wheel fitted to my car. So, I'm considering if I should change out my cars wheel for this leather one. If anyoen has any new wheel pics that i can judge the gloss factor against that'd be useful to know whether to go further with the matt look or leave it as is.

North West 1. Lewmc93 - Merseyside 2. Harrypm82 - Manchester 3. Annabella - Lancashire 4. Jongilly - Cumbria 5. Jaycee1878 - Liverpool 6. Supra2jze - Manchester 7. Spunkmeyer - Cheshire North East 1. Safcdixon - Durham 2. Jim_supra - East Yorkshire 3. Style - Newcastle 4. Jamesmark - Yorkshire Midlands 1. Josh42 - Staffordshire 2. blythmrk - Derbyshire/Yorkshire 3. m12aak - Leicester 4. Trebor69 - Swadlincote 5. Sukhy - Wolverhampton 6. Dnk - Redditch 7. Foxx - Leicestershire^ 8. Hamilton - Worcestershire^ 9. Steve Spedd East 1. Suprakeith - Cambridgeshire 2. Swampy - Lincolnshire 3. absz-Bedfordshire South West 1. Kev.O - Bristol 2. Noz - Devon South East 1. erachter - West Sussex 2. Ben_harmer32 - West Sussex 3. Mike2JZ - Zimbabwe 4. AdamAMG - Mars 5. Tayr - Hampshire 6. Mwilkinson - Hampshire 7. bonus_2000 - Kent 8. Jord - Oxford 9. HamzaHKhan - London 10. MrGRT - Berkshire 11. Auzzam - London 12. mellonman - SE London 13. Darren - East Sussex 14. mc92 - Hertfordshire/Cambridgeshire border 15. JCBT - Essex 16. Delboy52 - Milton Keynes, Buckinghamshire 17. Simo2007 - Hertfordshire 18. Chris Bailey - Essex 19. Lee P - West Sussex 20. Big Mark - Oxfordshire 21. eightdip - West London 22. charlton- Surrey 23. Bayside_supra - London Scotland 1. Drift_bear - Aberdeen 2. kwalker705 - Aberdeenshire 3. Farlane92 - Aberdeenshire 4. SPG - Lothians 5. Scott-tt Lothians Ireland 1. Boyne/Nigel Boyne - Ireland Misc 1. Frank Bullitt - UK Offshore Outside of UK 1. Samurai 20V - South Africa, Durban 2. kolb - Estonia 3. WayneW - Belgium 4. sebas - Poland atm 5.->K1 - France 6. TheRhdsupra - Netherlands, Vierlingsbeek 7. P_Bazz - Netherlands

They aren't highlighted in the list.

Can we have a red mod, yellow mod and green events organiser active thread started.

I am genuinely pleased to see you are finding jobs for the press. I have an old Ford diff in need of rebuilding but with a few specialist tools required to set the pre-load and lash I got scared. Its delving too deep into black arts for me to want to venture there, just now anyway.

On the whifbitz pictures it shows a grub screw so presumably there is no internal thread like the proper ones have?

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Pricing up what one of these costs new was a bit of a shock, it's over £700 just for the horn button. The leather steering wheel is a discontinued part so thats hard to price, the rubber compound version is still around for about £350. Seems to be around £1k from some old archive listings. Or, you could buy the two for £1,700. Leaves you wondering how many got thrown away over the years in favour of a stubby 'racing' wheel. £700 for the horn push, Supra world never fails to amaze.

ToyoDIY has the same part number for left and right 48257-24010

When I changed my brake fluid recently I had a constant stream of bubbles even after to fluid colour changed to the new oil but I sucked a good volume of fluid fast and that was a strong vacuum just sucking air into the pipe at the nipple not air travelling through the brake pipe. I then ended with under a minute of gravity bleed fluid weeping from the nipple that finished the change off nicely. I never went near to the pedals until it was all done.

I've got a full set in one of my boxes somewhere in the garage. I'll have a quick scout tomorrow and see if I can track them down and compare. I'm sure that they are plastic wrapped so it'll be hampered by that.