rider

It looks to be in good condition underside for not having anything done with that part. The lifting damage on the sills doesn't look bad at all and I'd expect to be able to straightened that out using some localised heat and a set of manly grips and clamps. Something probably best attempted with the carpet out, I wouldn't want those hollow fibres melting.

Did you buy this from their heritage division? What price and part number?

How was the car received by the general public at the NEC show?

I have a pre-facelift leather steering wheel (discontinued) for £1,200 that I refurbished and haven't got around to fitting on my own car. I put it down to being lazy. I have a set of OEM 17" wheels (discontinued) for £2,000 that I painted but haven't got around to adding rubber to them and putting onto my car. I know I'll get to it one day then they will be keepers. Both are cool, rare and essential for that premium OEM look. I did threads on this site for the steering wheel and road wheel refurbs so you can see the progress from starting point to the end result.

I'd keep hold of the clock and sell it as NOS at some point and retain a non butchered dash. There are quite a few clock repair videos online where dry or cracked solder joints are often the issue so an easy fix. If my clock stopped working, I have a spare but I'd also just melt all the solder joints on the failed one to check if the easy fix worked.

No one keeps a car for over 10 years unless its a good car. You should consider pushing it through a classic car auction where you can set a reserve that you are happy with and avoid the stress of dealing with the general public some of whom will just be having a day out.

With the vent I'm not convinced the foam backing is a good idea. When I took my underside apart the foam backing was sopping wet and a bit of a rust area as a consequence. If I planned on using my car in the wet then I'd have replaced it with a rubber seal or rubber sealant.

Should be the star exhibit at the NEC in November. It'd be worth considering some side stands to tilt the car with some underside lighting so punters could get a look at the underside as that is where 30 year old Supra's tend to vary these days. There is usually lots of offers to buy the cars off the display stand but any offers probably wouldn't get close to covering the rebuild costs you have incurred. Its a labour of love and to hell with the expense.

If its heading to Liverpool its probably already stripped or sitting in a container ready to ship. I'm sorry, I have nothing good to say about FJ. Bunch of crooks. I was only insured with them 2 days and that was 2 very expensive days. When my car was stolen insurance companies were more helpful, it was in the 1990's. I sent off a letter to the insurer about the car that was then missing about how it'd taken me ages to find one that good and what I felt it was worth. Their assessor agreed with my valuation and the insurance paid up within a week of the required month wait period to see if it was recovered. I really do doubt that the former 1 month wait is now SOP to 6 months. From the AA insurance website "Most insurers will wait for 30 days before paying out on a stolen car claim". Aegon have a terrible reputation so good luck, on Trustpilot 40% of reviews are 1 star. If you could give no starts then they would probably be no star ratings. I now only go with insurers that get top reviews which is usually more expensive but less hassle if you need to claim. If you are not on an agreed value policy then prepare yourself to be bitterly disappointed with a shitty settlement offer so that anything better becomes a bonus. There is always the ombudsman that you can refer companies to if the service is poor and settlement offer particularly bad. Make sure you keep copies of all for sale ads on PH and the likes and record any sale prices achieved for Mk4 Supra's at the various auctions around the UK. This will be all useful backing to argue your case with the insurer or to the ombudsman. I have used ombudsman services twice and both times I got what I wanted plus compensation and interest for being dicked around but these were both backed by a compelling case file put together by me. If you don't have time or inclination to do the groundwork, to gather the information, then its probably not something that will get you very far. I'm a litigious bastard against unscrupulous opposition so its something that comes easy to me.

toyodiy is a live site.

It may be worth adding info on the spec of the build, that way if parts start to appear on certain platforms then that could lead somewhere. Any serial numbers you have, for the engine etc. Unless its recovered quickly its probably going to get stripped for parts. I've had two cars stolen in 40 years, one was recovered within 2 days parked up (because a resident complained to the council it was in their space) and the other was never seen or heard of again. With the one that was never recovered I saw it being driven off and walked quickly over to the police station within 5 minutes of it going. They weren't interested in putting out a call to patrols on a theft that had just occurred. They really are that useless. With the one that was recovered, I wish it hadn't been as they barrelled the car and broke the steering lock so I then had different keys for the ignition. You do need to check with your insurer that they won't look to push any claim onto the garages insurers. I have a mechanic matey who has a traders insurance policy and had him check for him driving or storing my car. Answer came back market value which on we buy any car is £225 for a TT6 Supra. I now won't leave my car overnight with any third party or let them drive it other than doing a MOT brake test because insurance cover could be a nightmare issue with third party insurers involved. Hopefully you have a sympathetic insurer if it does come down to a claim for damage or total loss on the vehicle.

I've used Yam6 for parts and never had a problem. Its always useful to those who work on their cars to know where is the go to place as the traditional outlet forum favourites like Toyota Oxford and TCB fade away.

There are some options reserved for paid up members.

Denso have discontinued the A80 condenser so the only option is to prise one out from someone's garage shelf with a very generous offer or buy a Koyorad one but that requires you recycle the mounting brackets from an old condenser to mount on the car. So, if you don't have an old condenser to hand you are a bit screwed. The OEM Denso one used to be available through retailers for £40. Those were the days. Whifbitz push out the Koyorad condenser for £460 + delivery.

Hagerty UK 0333-323-1138 [email protected] I've just renewed and haven't increased the agreed value this year as prices have generally stalled or even slipped a little.

I hate getting my car wet or dirty. every puddle becomes a major obstacle to be avoided. Hopefully others are less daunted with their clean undersides than I proved to be and can go on to fully enjoy their reborn Supras.

You used to be able to buy the individual seals and parts but who knows how many are still available. The Amayama page gives you all the p/n info if you want to go searching. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/supra/JZA80/109854/chassis/4502

If the return line is removed then turning the pump would normally drain the reservoir. When I had a failed PAS pump on a Ford way back in time it was an easy spot, you could see a fall in the level then a return rise on the pulley cycle. The pump 44320-14250 is still listed up on some USA sites for around $300 even though it is a now discontinued Soarer and Supra part. I hold a spare somewhere on my garage shelfing as probably do many other long term owners.

You could get a valuation from the auctioneers and then post a link to the auction page with date here. Then anyone interested could follow and bid as the feeling moves them. Unless you are in a hurry, its probably going to be worth waiting a few months as Winter is never peak time for classic car buyer activity. Unless you are anticipating a major economic crash soon which some stock market followers are predicting for early 2024.

You should be able to tell if its smoke or soot coming out. If it only happens when you go big pop then you have an explosion in the exhaust because of over fuelling that would dislodge soot. I'd be more concerned about over fuelling or timing issues.

Classifieds must have a price stated, themz the rules. As a single owner car you should consider selling by classic car auction where the price you land has a high probability of being higher than you'd get selling privately. Auctions also cut of the tyre kicker test pilot types and you have liability insurance cover through the auction house.

One word of advice on exporting is let the buyer arrange all shipping and customs clearance (the shipping agent usually provides this service). Kingstown are one of the largest USA to UK or vice versa shipping agents. Otherwise you'll be in a whole load of pain from insurance cover (1% of value) and any damage or theft from the car (that happens a lot on cheaper RORO shipping, its less likely to happen if shipped in a sea container but it still does happen) during the transit period. I'd advertise on ebay.com, facebook and their main classics site classiccars.com My Mustang Fastback shipped over from the USA with Kingstown, nothing but praise for their service. You have to be on the ball though with getting all customs forms and documents to the agent in time and authority duty payments made (customs won't clear until that is done) for a quick turnaround. Each additional day beyond the two they give you in bonded warehouse racks up charges at an eye watering rate. There is no messing around time allowed, if any is required then that costs money.

I have a K&N filter on one of my cars and its a pain of a clean up and re oiling process with of course, uses very expensive proprietary pink oil. I wouldn't go there again, it was just that they had a thin filter required with limited over carb head room between the engine and closed bonnet. I recall reading in the distance past that if you managed to gain 5hp from a free flow air filter you were doing well so, although every little helps, its not going to be a game changer. Worth a read: https://www.carsdirect.com/car-maintenance/pros-and-cons-of-a-high-flow-air-filter Basically a performance filter offers less resistance to flow so it lets more air and along with that shit into the engine (that the OEM paper element one would absorb). It is as with most things, a dirty air filter will impede air flow and available hp more than a performance air filter will enhance flow so if the air filter is changed regularly, ahead of being restricted by dirt then that will probably be the best all round deal. Lets not forget all those cheap cone filters people fitted back in the 90's where the foam degraded leaving the engine to suck through a lot of abrasive powder.

Air filters aren't supposed to get old. The longest service interval I've ever seen on one is 36 months. I have used the Blue Print filter for the last few years, gets changed every 3 years of roughly every 500 miles. If you want, I can go check the part number from my next years fit that is sitting on my garage shelf ready to go.

Is that the original rear (main) heat shield? They tend to be the one that catches all the shit and rust badly so it looks too good to be the original. Unfortunately another long discontinued part so you have to pretty much go with what you have with the heat shields these days.