rider

As dnk say, a cm would be a huge gap to bridge, Shimming is a process of inserting shims which are various gauge metal washers or more normally U shaped clips. So you can raise a join but you wouldn't normally go more than 3mm max with a shim or combination of shims. I reckon though you are more likely to have a fall on your wing rather than a rise on your bonnet. To check the bonnet for warping you can measure corner to corner to the nearest mm and if the diagonals match precisely then your bonnet isn't warped.

The only thing for certain is it wouldn't have left the factory like that. It could be the wing has had a hard straight on bash and the leg is slightly buckled altering the wing panel to a slight down angle or has been replaced and not aligned properly. You wouldn't know for sure unless you unbolted the wing and had a peek. It wouldn't be ideal but you might be able to shim the front of the wing to overcome any minor discrepancy, I've done that on an old car before to improve shut lines and lets face it, Supras are old cars so carry a lot of history behind them and most will have been dinged at least once in 25 years.

This should help you figure things out. Looks like there are 3 pins for movement, two for folding and two for heating. JDM mirrors didn't do the heating part as far as I was aware but aparently they do.

No, I've always fitted new banjo bolts when I've removed and replaced calipers and they invariably come with a new set of washers unless you buy cheap.

They are copper washers.

I ordered two bottles via their eBay listing. Estimated arrival given at time of ordering is the end of this week. I'll stick the car up on the ramp in Septemeber for its pre-MOT poke around so I'll be looking to swap out the RP Syncromax then that has been in for probably 5 years - or about 2,000 miles.

There are lots of sealed for life Getrag auto boxes that have expired after 80k miles, just trawl Jag and Land Rover forums for tales of broken gearboxes, so even with sealed for life its still going to be prudent to do an oil and filter change before 100k miles on a manual. As I mentioned before concerning Red Line gear oil, there is lots of talk about their ATF fluids on US forums about it causing all sorts of leaks on older gearboxes because they overdo it on the seal swell characteristics so its probably best avoided. As for shelf life there isn't much in the way of addtives that will not age well in a ATF fluid except maybe if they contain unstable silicates that are one class of additives employed in oils to prevent foaming. If there is no phase seperation (some additved are sheared in rather than mix blended - like silicates) or evidence of cloudy sediment in just about any oil then its good to use. I have the D21065 on order from Lubweb so it'll be interesting to see how they check out for batch code date.

The pump is in the tank. If you head off down to any half decent garage if you don't have pressure gauges to hand they should be able to read the actual pressure as you wait and tell how well the pump maintains the correct optimal running pressure with the engine running.

It reads like either a weak spark or weak fuel delivery. Seeing you've changed the coil then the spark should be good so If you have the means, I'd suggest check the fuel pump pressure. From memory, which is a constantly fading facet so its well worth checking, the fuel pressure should be around 40psi.

If you are undertaking what is effectively a new system install then you may as well look to gear it towards the R134a refrigerant replacement which in automotive terms is R-1234yf. I know a good amount about R134a use in cars from previous jobs and that refrigerant is now being phased out (you won't see it in new mainstream cars any longer) so everyone is either going to end up paying a lot more for the rapidly dwindling supplies of R134a refrigerant or face having to retrofit a new gas into their current setup which usually entails compromises which means inevitably a less efficient cooling setup. So, if it were me about to embark on reinstalling a a/c system I'd start by first doing some reasearch into if the new refrigerant uses moidified components, like the compressors, like the hose composition, like the drier, like the condenser and like the evaporator. I'd want to check all that out before committing to reinstalling a R134a system into a car today over installing a future proofed system.

Using the link Scooter offered up its an H6 plug you need.

You need to look straght into the plug and then you can see which configuration of number of pins, position of pins and outline matches the plug diagram. Sometimes, the plug will have the type stamped on it.

Marty isn't one of our more frequent posters so they may well not be a regular site visitor so they probably won't pick up on your question. You really need to private message him, but unfortunately, you'd need to join up and pay a small subbscription fee in order to send a PM. Alternatively, you can raise your own specific thread question in the Supra technical section and that would probably illicit replies - it could even then be picked up by Marty seeing it'd be profiled as a new topic.

You need to find plug reference charts like this one and then you can identify the plug by a direct comparison with the one that is hopefully still on the loom just in need of replacement, once you have that you can scour the earth or I have had TCP Parts track it down for me once I know what to ask them for. If you look through the workshop manuals that are on this site you'll probably find one with all the wiring plugs detailed. Its unlikely that anyone will be able to answer your specific question so a bit of self help investigative time may well be your best friend here.

Lubweb have their own website where prices seem much lower than the eBay store price. 1l of gearbox oil for under Euro10 on their website. Whether UK shipping is available off their website someone would need to try buying and see. There is also a Febi Bilstein product that meets the MB235.71 spec, being also German it may even be the OE oil? Interestingly, Alibaba also list the Mobil D21065 so fake oil could be an issue buying outside of the authorised dealer network and these are expensive gearboxes to risk recycled chip oil going in.

I've packed up my tent, folded my deckchair and gone home.

Hopefully you won't get all precious about all the mods and 'cleaning' you have done to your car like I fear I have. I have kittens now about how every puddle in the road might get the underside dirty. It's become a sad place to inhabit where I now seem to prefer not to drive the car for fear it'll get itself dirty in places no one will get to see. Its a fine psychological line to walk.

I've owned or driven lots of cars and there are only two that have ever engaged me as a man and machine in grinning harmony, on is the Mk4 Supra and the other is a 2.8 special Capri. There are too many driver aids and in cab comforts to deliver the as one feeling these days. If it has to be modern then comfort wins and it'd have to be a newer Range Rover than the one I own, a big Merc or a Bentley for me. These things happen, we all get older by the day and 8.176 of those days have passed by since I bought my Supra. I think the answer to the question is largely defined by age group.

The Mobil D21065 is a MB approved gear oil under 235.71 reference so I'd be surprised if that product isn't distributed in North America.

You really should only be thinking about changing these if you have the hub off to fit a new wheel bearing. Also if you have the hub off to fit one of these it'd be daft not to replace the wheel bearing at the same time. The actual metal the comprises the handbrake shoes is of a decent thickness so it'll take some spot welding easily. So, if you just have a bit of corrosion on the thinner dust shield you could always look at doing a patch repair or apply some epoxy putty to replace any small areas of missing metal.

Just remember, I claimed first dibs.

I love these teaser ads. Where do I pitch my tent and park my deckchair? Is there a queue system on bidding? If there is I have got to be at the front of the line.

Usually referred to as a grommet. You can buy those aplenty in just about any size on eBay, either with a hole or as a rubber film blanking grommet that you can punch your own preferred size hole through.

If its brakes the sound should be more a metallic squeal than a high pitch whistle. The kind you'd get from a dry hinge. I'd take a punt at you having a partially seized caliper. You might be able to track that down to an individual caliper by is one wheel warmer than the opposite wheel after a good run out. Otherwise its a wheels off and check the calipers retract easily and smoothly. Failing that, I'd then look at the hand brake shoes and check their adjustment, you might find one side is too tight and binding slightly. That is easily checked by adjusting through the access hole in the disc until there is just no friction on the disc. So I'm going for either a sticky caliper or incorrectly set handbrake shoes. You can probably rule in or out the handbrake shoes by applying the handbrake at 10mph and seeing if the noise goes.

I thought sunstrips were dead being a I've pulled a girlfriend Daz and Shaz thing of the 70's https://cdn.leasing.com/cms/caprisinstrip.jpg