rider

Doug Sports specialises in Turbo rebuilds and came highly recommended to me when I was thinking of having a couple of spare CT20's refurbished. They are based in Stourbridge and when i talked with him (Doug) he offered to strip the turbo's in front of me and go through exactly what was needed and how much it'd cost.

I'd think its more likely a partially seized wheel cylinder. I had that with my Range Rover that would vibrate at 50 - 55mph. You can usually confirm if this is your problem by touching the road wheel after a run, if its warm then you know what the problem is. I had a hot wheel and a new caliper solved the problem.

Welcome and its got to be as safe a buy as you can get knowing the previous owner and their ownership spanning a healthy term. A good number of these cars come with very little history so you've got a head start there. If you are looking to spend, I'd say take your time and plan well. Some things will enhance the cars value and some will just enhance the cars personalisation which can both add and detract from the cars appeal. If you are after parts, many are now discontinued but lots are not. You can always go to breakers like Keron who is on the forum as a trader or to parts retailers like Paul at TCB Parts who will manage to get most things for you, at Supra prices but not Toyota prices which do seem to get more inflated by the day. Some good news is Toyota are starting up heritage parts for the Mk4 Supra but how far that will go is yet to be seen. You would benefit from signing up with your £10 subscription as that allows you to do unlimited posts and to PM converse with members. There is a two decades of archive knowledge stored in threads throughout the forum that you can tap into as well as asking any specific questions you need addressed at any time. A word of advice would be don't ask anything that could be regarded as newbie stupid which can be easily avoided by research by searching on a topic that could well have been raised and resolved many times before. The crowd tends to be very helpful but sometimes critical to. All build, titillation and refurb threads do go down very well with the crowd so anything you share on that as you do things to or with your car will get you well bedded into the forum.

The jspec factory option came as a c/l unit that goes under the passenger seat along with two pre-programmed key fobs. These have no means of pairing any additional fobs. The US and Euro spec cars came with a c/l unit located behind the steering column and that has a magic red button on it to pair new additional fobs. I don't know about the UK version, maybe someone with a UK car could check to see if their c/l module is located under the passenger seat or by the steering column. Last time I checked, you could still buy the Denso c/l under seat module with new fobs but it was really expensive so if you need new fobs you may as well buy a new generic module with remote fobs that you can pick up for around £30 on places like eBay. The Denso unit was many hundreds of £'s 2 years ago and may no longer be available.

As a NA convert with engine issues its not going to be worth a lot. I'm surprised the gearbox held up. I'd guess at the parts value begin around 5k more than the all together car with its broken engine. Rolling shells are fetching big money these days, as are lights, and dash panels - hot cakes, and climate controls, and digital clocks. Bumpers are silly money. Tailgates, you hardly see them offered these days. Any glass - its all discontinued on pre-facelift models. The money is going to be best in the parts.

Under 6.3 of their terms and conditions they limit their liability to £100 maximum for lost property. So you should push them to pay this compensation and also to return your booking fee. If you arranged payment by credit card you will be able to reclaim the booking fee from them if PF don't refund it. Certain credit cards will also give you enhanced protection so its worth checking up on the credit card terms and conditions for any additional insurance cover they may offer, if you did happen to use a credit card for payment. If you paid by PayPal or debit card, forget it.

There was a time when people would crawl all over sales threads with helpful comments, supportive nods or to howl at the price but not so much these days. The loss of the pictures cannot be helping anyone trying to sell parts or cars. External link pics are still working when all the forum posted ones have gone, hopefully temporarily, so it may be worth providing some external links to cloud hosted pictures. For what its worth, the new paint looks to have given the car a massive visual lift. I do happen to be rather partial to 040 supras.

You are probably best pitching these on eBay as there are quite a few sets listed at or well above that price. The forum price for these tends to be £50 on a good day, I bought a spare set not so long ago for £35.

Has anyone ever plugged in a DLC2 adaptor into the under dash port and got any useful data with a handheld scanner? https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61D69etXzTL._AC_SL1001_.jpg

There must be something to it then. I changed my 21 year rubber bushes for new rubber bushes and it didn't feel any different.

For anyone needing the centre caps the part number is 42603-14320, that's for the 17" wheels but I believe the 16" uses the same cap. I recently sold a set of four 16" wheels with caps, minters, for £120. Looks like I should have binned the wheels and sold the caps on their own. They took over a year to sell so people should be able to pick up second hand caps cheaply enough with wheels thrown in. Failing that, new caps are around £30 each from Japan, which probably means £100 each from Toyota UK.

Thats a good price especially if its VAT inclusive. I'd just want to confirm before you go ahead what it includes and ensure at minimum its a mineral to PAG oil change for the compressor (preferably after a solvent flush of the evaporator, condensor and pipework), a new drier and a charge of R134a.

I'd suggest you consider doing a refresh of the advert. Its a long list with not a lot of wow factor. An example is I don't look at things like a Rav4 wheel and think - cool. If I was on the lookout for a supra I'd be wondering things like why has a 50k mile car had a engine rebuild and has shot bushes. The ad raises a load of questions with no answers. If you have 7 years with the car it doesn't come across in the advert. Why not list dates of services and what has been done. Why the engine was rebuilt and how that is a big plus. Anyone who has owned a car for 7 years can write a banging advert, if they try.

If you get a proper fridge guy the first thing he will do is pull a vac on the system to check the integrity and pull out any residual R12. If it holds the vac you then know all components are good. The hard part will be tracking down someone happy to work on a R12 setup. They may well find it too daunting if they aren't old enough to have worked on one in the past. The retrofit proceedure I outlined hasn't really been mainstream practice for around 20 years, so its going to be largely forgotten to never known unless you come across someone who has been doing the job for 30 years or more and has experiience with what was termed in the day - R12 to 134a retrofit. If you mention retrofit and they go whats that then move on.

You can do simple things to get the a/c up and running again but rather than R134a which is itself being phased out you may as well consider jumping to its replacement R1234yf which has a lower global warming potential. From an R12 system the differences will be the service ports; R12 ports are different to R134a which in turn are subtly different to the new R1234yf systems. So you will need new ports or port adapters. You can get R12 to R134a port adaptors, you probably can't get R12 to R1234yf port adaptors as R12 was phased out a long time agao now. So the first question is do you want to change the service ports, if not R134a it is but bear in mind R134a is currently on its way out and the price of that refrigerant reflects its dwindling status and it'll only get more expensive. With either R134a or R1234yf they both need an oil change on the compressor as R12 used mineral oil and the newer refrigernats use synthetic PAG oils. The reason being the newer gasses don't mix (as in they are not soluble) with mineral oil. So, you need to solvent flush your entire system by pumping a solvent around the pipework to wash out all the mineral oil. You then need to change the compressor oil to a PAG oil. The PAG oil for R134a is not the same PAG oil for R1234yf because the R134a PAG's have only limited solubility in the new refrigerant. Once you change or have adaptors for the ports, have solvent flushed the system and added in new oil then you only need change the drier and you are good to go with adding the new refrigerant. The AC will then work, not as well as the original R12 gas did because the system was designed for R12 and all the 3 refrigerants used have different pressure and volatility characteristics. They are all selected to be similar, but they are not the same. The newer gasses can be more porous through R12 system hoses than R12 was, so you may need to top us the system every three years instead of every 6 as before. So its not that hard to do, you can even get away with not doing a solvent flush if you change out the compressor oil two, preferably three times to remove as much of the original mineral oil as possible. To do this though youd need to recover the refrigerant each time or just vent and replace (which is naughty). So first up Change the low pressure service port or buy an adaptor to fit the couplings for whichever gas you choose. Second up Buy PAG compressor oil that is specifically suited to the compressor and refrigerant. The compressor manufacturers stick with the same designs and the design determines what viscosity oil you need. So if it was ISO 100 for the R12 compressor, chances are high it'll be at or close to ISO 100 for the newer gasses. Il is more than enough for any compressor as they usually take about 300g. Replace the oil in the compressor. Whatever comes out goes in, the rest of the original fill charge will be distributed around the system. If you have solvent flushed the system then go for a full initial charge volume of fresh oil. Third up buy the gas (you can buy small quantities service kits as a private individual, you need a licence to buy the larger gas cylinder quantities Or employ a refrigerant engineer to do it for you. Fourth up Change the system drier to one designed for whichever refrigerant you choose. This is located on or near to the condenser. Fifth up Buy a refrigerant pressure gauge set to couple your gas to the service port and through which you can meter the new gas into the system. You will want around 2bar pressure on the low pressure inlet port with the compressor running. It probably reads more daunting than it actually is.

And we thought CW had been expired! The glitch has been resolved.

Serious question, does the changing of sub frame bushes offer any benefits that are tangible, like better power delivery reducing launch times to 60 and less roll in cornering? What would be the benefit of poly bushes that couldn't say be bettered by a more rigid or an adjustable anti-roll bar? Poly bushes do apparently last longer than OE rubber bushes but with a good many Supra's still running around on their original bushes after 25+ years is that even an issue? You see lots of claims by the manufacturers of its quieter, they lose camber less so the suspension geometry is maintained better in corners, less vibrations, longer life. But, there is never any road or lab data provided by anyone to back up these claims. Hey, they are purple - that means they must be better, and as for the red ones they are only bettered by yellow.

This link might help you out with some of the wire identification.

With mismatched wires you know with 7 going in you would, I'd have to assume, have three for moving the glass LR and UD. With these applying a degree of circuitry logic there will be one common power and one for each direction of movement. You should be able to trace which is which by tracking back to the switch on the door panel - to see which wire has continuity to which movement. Then the others will be either folding or heating. With folding, again you should be able to track back continuity to the switch. Once you have all the lead in wires tagged you'll know from the wiring diagram which lead needs to go into the female loom plug in which location to feed power to the required and available mirror functions of your replacement mirrors male plug. Not all OE mirrors are folding, so which mirrors you have will dictate what feed wires you need and you'll also be able to identify which wires are now surplus to requirements and can just be taped up.

I've still to get around to having the set I bought 3 years ago refurbished but once they are, I'd value them around £1k. I recommended people buy up as many sets as they could 4 years ago as I pitched at that time it'd be the best £300 spent to add £2k to the car price. They were few and far between then with only a few sets of pre-facelift wheels coming up each year. I haven't seen any now for about a year. It's looking like scrapped cars is going to be the main source for these wheels going forward.

Comparing the Mobil product spec to the V160 data included in the great V160 fluid challenge comparison is: Viscosity 100C V160 OEM oil 7.2cSt (test result) Mobil D 21065 7.4cSt (Specification) Flash point V160 OEM oil 204C (test result) Mobil D 21065 200C (Specification) Mobil product was originally developed by Esso to meet GM DEXRON IID. The oil has auto box approvals ZFTE-ML 04D and ZFTE-ML 11B. Car manufacturer approvals are Mercedes MB-Approval 235.71 and Peugeot Peugeot/Citroën Automobiles S71 2102.

You have a 14 day cooling off period to cancel and insufficient cover would be a valid reason to cancel insurance cover.

If you aren't happy with the agreed value limit go elsewhere. there are plenty of citations in the Insurance section of this website of insurers or agents that can arrange the agreed value at pretty much what you are want, within reason. After all, insurers raise the premiums on level of cover so why would they not, you probably best as your current agent to ask their underwriter to get an answer to that.

The mobil oil arrived today from France. There is no date stamp or batch reference on the bottles. It is a red dyed ATF.

Did you get around to measuring up the diagonals on the bonnet?