rider

There is one on eBay for £1,200, no glass and no delivery and no plastics and no struts. Just the metal in lovely silver.

You really don't want to do diffs as a one off. I looked into doing a diff on my old Ford and the cost of the tools plus the opportunity to fuk it up made it only worthwhile if it was going to become your day job.

You must have your search engine on USA settings or US VPN as loads come up. Whether they are any good or not I couldn't say. https://www.universalseatbelts.co.uk/seat-belt-repairs/ https://www.orionsafetybelt.co.uk/services/seat-belt-repairs http://www.seatbeltservices.co.uk/seat_belt_repairs.html

If timing is good and it won't start then it has to to be fuel or spark. I'd start with the fuel pump, then look at the fuel pump, check the fuel pump again and go onto the ignition side from there.

There are old remedies that can be tried out before giving up on your current belt. You could try hot soapy water to clean the length of the belt that you can extract, this is after all the length that'll have picked up decades of grubby greasy fingers and dust. Once dried its usual to apply a talcum powder dusting. Failing that there are oddles of companies who offer repair and refresh services who are unlikely to exceed the new from Toyota cost. This would be preferable if you want to retain the white tag as that tag is year dated so should match the car. the seat belts are one of the 'hidden' means to check a Supra is what it is claimed to be.

The car in its 25th year having covered 110,000 miles I figured that I may as well swap out some original bits for new OE parts whilst the cam belt was off being changed. First time change on the idler pulley and hydraulic tensioner, both originals were in really good shape. Front oil seal changed, the original one was a little harder then the new one but definitely not brittle. Water pump swap, old one seems like new with not a sign of any wear or play. I've seen some USA forum posts suggesting swap out the pump at each cam belt change. They are expensive and the garage told me it was a pig of a job. So, probably not a sensible part to change as a regular service item. Thermostat changed, didn't need doing but why not when the coolant is drained. Flex coupling, the old original was removed and the new one turned out to be the wrong part so the old was refitted. There were no signs of any cracking or deterioration on the original flex coupling, you see BMW and Merc flexis tearing apart on much newer cars. I have to think up what else doesn't need doing ready for next years MOT/service. Toyota really did build these cars from quality bits. The only bits that failed on the car were two of the four bolts holding the 25 year old original radiator, these snapped rather than be removed so they had to be drilled out by the garage and tapped. The radiator was last off in 2008 so the bolts had seized sometime since then. The radiator plastics survived the hose removal and refitting fine. I now have to think up over the Winter SORN period what else doesn't need doing to get the parts in ready for next years MOT/service. Toyota really did build these cars from quality bits, except maybe the bolts.

Its the law. If it came out of the factory with a converter or two it has to have a converter or two when presented for its MOT. But, why not just take it back to where it was last tested as the cat laws have been in effect for over 12 months so if that testing station went against the ruling a year ago maybe they would do so again.

What does a full respray entail these day? Shuts, engine bay, under bonnet, wheel wells, For some, a full respray is restricted to what you see is what you get. It is a very ballsy choice of colour for only 2 months old paint as its not going to appeal to the purist or all non-purists.

Its not meant to be easy. Does that exhaust manage the 100mm speedbump clearance, it looks tight?

I wouldn't worry at all about showing newer paint than that of today, most of the Supra Garage pictures on here are from the cars in their long ago past. Its like a historical record of what a newish Supra looks like, often now what they once looked like as many have departed to the recycled life of cars. So any kind of paint is a bonus on a 25 year old car. Being a UK TT6 you may want to end the lurking by showing it a little, message the show organisers like IanIan, so good he named himself twice, if that is something that'd interest you in the future - post lockdown.

I've imported from the USA so done the reverse thing. Any buyer should do all the paperwork and arrange collection so all the seller needs to do is present the documents or accepted copies to the freight forwarder to enable them to complete the required customs declarations. As a private seller you are asking a lot of someone thousands of miles away to give you a fair amount of money so that will be your limiting aspect. After all, would you be happy to send Hank in Iowa $40,000 of your hard earned because he has posted up a few pictures of a car on the internet? There are traders here in the UK who market Yank cars that are still in the USA so maybe you can find someone in the USA to market the car on your behalf which would overcome the buyer dealing with someone in a foreign land issue. You'd need to trust that a broker/marketer would in the end pass on the proceeds less their commission. Whichever way you play it there is a lot of money hanging out there for someone. If you insist on payment on or ahead of collection I don't think you'll see much if any interest from the USA when they can buy RHD cars direct from Japan for the same or lower price than you'd be likely hoping for.

Paul at TCB always double checks things as many part numbers have been superseded but it is easier for him if you list the part reference when asking for a quote. The two pics attached give you all the info you need. When I said the parts were cheap enough, remember these are Supra parts so don't be surprised to pay £6 for a plastic clip or £3 for a stubby screw bolt.

Our new Super Trader TCB Parts got all the bolts and plastic clips/pins for me cheap enough.

Fuel injector solenoid. If you run a stethoscope along the manifold you may be able to pinpoint if that is the problem with one of your injectors. You should be able to pinpoint to whether the noise is originating from the front, rear or side of the engine - thats impossible to discern from the video and not detailed in your OP.

I bought in 2l of the the Pug D21065 Oil for a look see. This time there is a batch number stamped onto the bottle, dated 2017. From these guys

There is a massive difference between I said and the insurer agreed. The insurer will usually issue an agreed value letter or certificate. Every insurance has a nominal value stated by the owner which means nothing beyond a maximum figure any insurer would ever pay. Its all in the small print if you have an agreed value or market value in the instance of a total loss claim.

I've monitored my business website from 2003, which is when the business was founded. The website has had four major revisions in 17 years which was primarily around making the site more small screen sizable/friendly. There weren't any smartphones back in the day so then the only question in 2003 was what browser people were using and where were they located, the browser choice would impact on things like java and flash so it was useful to know and this information led to our dropping flash from the website around 15 years ago as Internet explorer fell away. Smartphones came upon the World in 2007 with the launch of the Apple i-phone. These sold well, I could see it in the breakdown that suddenly, from nowhere, 10% were popping onto the site by smartphone. As the smartphone and tablet market grew then every year, the number of users using these grew. Today, we have 10% using PC's or laptops, 20% on tablets and 70% on smartphones to access our site. I'm sure Mawby has the comparable data for this forum over the years from pretty much the same starting point. So, here we have a poll that says 50% of contributors use only or primarily large screen means for posting. That, to me, suggests that the site is probably small screen unfriendly and that would restrict those users and consequently the potential engagement from those small screen users. Over to Mawby for some site stats.

1. Warm soapy water 2. Autoglym vinyl cleaner 3. WD40 4. Meths 5. Acetone 6.Flame thrower Start at 1 and work from there.

Toyota must be charging near to £200/hr labour to stretch anywhere near to that figure. You should have asked for a 10% discount.

I considered painting my 110m2 garage floor when I had it built The only advantage would be any spills would be easier to mop up. The disadvantages were that painted surfaces require repaint or touch up maintenance and then the cost, good quality floor paint is expensive. Lastly, if I painted the floor I'd then feel compelled to paint the ceiling and walls as well, before painting the floor. Then I'd need to also paint and touch up those areas periodically. So, in the end I didn't bother and even with ATF stains from a leaking C4 auto box I have no regrets. If oil leaks worry you then cardboard has always been a traditional garage floor covering that works well and we all get way too many amazon boxes so second use of those is the green thing to do.

There is also a coolant drain off the block. Seeing you are member you can get all the manuals in the tech section to see where the engine coolant drain is on the side of the engine.

Welcome and good luck with the car for years to come. On the glass of brown coolant you might want to change the fluid at least once more seeing it is quite difficult to completely drain the Supra cooling system. You want to protect the heater matrix at all cost, including considering going to a waterless coolant. I haven't done that myself but my fluid gets changed every 2 years with a new dose of Toyota Red as per the manufacturers recommendation even though the car does very few miles. Maintained well, the cars do tend to run and run. If your car is an original UK supply car then the underside is the area to consider spending most of your time and money on these days as rust, largely unseen, is starting to become a growing realisation. You can get a rough guide on how far that has likely gone by looking at the integrity of the tank guard condition, plus the rear and front hub shields and then the surface condition of the rear subframe and drive shafts (assuming these are all original). The front dust shields are one of the first parts to dissolve away with replacements often cut to fit the hub in situ as a quick fix compared to removing the hub to fit a unmodified new shield. If all these components are in good shape then chances are the bodywork is to.

This is probably what you need a couple of, then off to the key cutter.

Probably worth adding if you have receipts for the work undertaken on the box and if there is any warranty provided by Suprasport in miles or months following first installation. These boxes are £6k all day now so be a bit of a bargain if there is any kind of warranty offered with the rebuild work.

This is why buyers should be made to give a price guide, even range depending on condition. Or maximum. To avoid hoarders wasting their time dealing with a bargain hunter.