rider

I'm pretty sure the UK bar was 2mm thicker. The bars tend to conical wear away from the centre under the rubber bush and finally snap; seeing they are formed from a fairly thin wall hollow tube. If it were mine, having got my welding certificate, I'd probably look into welding a new tube section into the bar in order to retain the original bar. Though yours does look to be badly corroded. You wouldn't know if it is salvageable until you got it off for a good examination.

Toyota are cheap enough for the belt. The rest I sourced elsewhere. The pump came via TCB for a genuine Toyota. £120+VAT from memory. If Toyota are using plastic fins then you'll have plastic fins if you want OEM. If you aren't bothered about OEM then places like RockAuto sell generics with prices starting from only £12. I just wanted a Toyota part seeing the first pump lasted 24 years with no issues.

You didn't understand the fukkers part then?

A thread on a US site suggested that the water pump should be changed every time the cambelt is changed. I never followed that advice, the car has just had its 5th cambelt fitted and I decided to get the garage to change the water pump and thermostat and idler and tensioner whilst there. All those part were original and frankly they looked good for another 25 years. There is no play in the water pump bearing, like none. The OE water pump is around £150 and according to the garage a right pain to fit. So expect pushing £250 including fitting at a garage. At least I know my pump was replaced with a Toyota pump and they may not always be available, though I believe the current pumps use plastic vanes and the originals were metal. So I suspect the newer pumps won't age as well as the original.

You'd probably need to appoint a local solicitor then, but only if they contest the claim and force it to court. If they don't respond to the claim then it automatically gets judged in your favour and its then simply a process of appointing court bailiffs which you can also arrange on the moneyclaim website after judgement. Lots of companies will contest for the hassle of it as it costs them nothing. I'd expect them to do this in your case, assuming that it'll be too much trouble for you so you won't turn up at the court. So, before you file (you may well need to be a UK resident to file using the government service) chat to a few solicitors around Cambridge to get an idea of notice and fees they would want to attend court. If you win these costs will all be added to the judgement settlement anyway, then its just a matter of collecting. As I mentioned that shouldn't present any problem with the stock value they maintain. Chances are, even if they contest it they wouldn't actually turn up themselves so it'd be a automatic judgement to you. You could even suggest to them its not worth your turning up to make it even less likely they will turn up. You don't need to be represented by a solicitor, it can be anyone - just someone who is confident of the details and can talk coherently with the Judge. Maybe there is a forum member near to Cambridge who is also a solicitor who could help you out and attend the court hearing if it went that far.

Sue the fukkers at moneyclaim, a government website. Only costs a few £ to start a court claim which is usually enough to focus minds and you can add any costs incurred to the settlement value you are seeking. The only problems fall if they contest as the court hearing would always be in a court local to the defendant so you'd need to factor in getting from wherever you live to Cambridge area to attend court. If you or your appointed legal representative don't attend then the case is thrown out. But, you can add all costs incurred to your claim and present those to the judge in court. I've sued lots of former customers and never lost a claim. I quite like seeing them squirm after they have messed me around with late payments as the further they dig in the more pain you can inflict. Frozen bank accounts was fun as was a third party debt order on one customers bank account though you do need to have access to their bank details for this to apply. Obtaining bank details is fairly easy, I've just called up the company's accounts people and said I need to arrange a BACS payment to them to clear an invoice or buy a product and always fell over themselves to share their details. From their last accounts they carry about £100k of stock and £20k cash at bank so the bailiffs wouldn't have any problem collecting against a court order. Go have some fun at their expense.

There has to be someone with a new set of front frame cushions sitting on their shelves. If you haven't got a set of diff bushes yet they are still available but the price on those is heading North at a fast pace so best get in early if you need to. When I renewed all the bushes on my rear frame the front cushions looked in pretty good shape. No cracks and firm rubber, unlike the diff supports that had gone a bit spongy relative to the new ones i fitted. So, you may as well just refit the ones you have unless these is something visibly amiss with them.

US suppliers I have stuck to are McGeorge a Toyota dealership in Georgia. RockAuto (I have a thread that I up constantly discount codes for these somewhere on forum) and amazon.com where seller go fulfilled by Amazon to get their cheap transatlantic freight rates. McGeorge is my least favoured because they ship by USPS so you have to pay to clear customs which eats up a few days and also have a hefty RM handling charge on top so I tend to only go to them for genuine Toyota bigger ticket items.

Be very careful ordering from Amayama. They will part ship and cancel items not in stock. I filled out my very last ever order with them to reduce the freight cost impact and all the fluff arrived whilst the part I placed the order for never did, that got refunded. Amayama also have a completely useless parts guarantee. If you buy a part and have a problem then you need a letter from a Toyota mechanic at a Toyota dealership to back up a warranty claim. You then need to arrange the return shipping. Any self fitted or independent garage fitted part is specifically excluded from their guarantee. I contacted Amayama once about a failed part and got told without a supporting letter from Toyota to go away. There are many parts available in the USA from a selection of resellers, Amazon.com and dealerships at a lower price than you can buy the same part in the UK. You do have the added complication of import taxes but duty is usually 4% so no big deal when parts are often 40% cheaper. I've had some parts shipped over from the USA for a total of £6 freight and duty. Lots of UK suppliers charge £10 for delivery. So, I'd look to the USA before UAE for new parts. I've used many USA sources and all have been excellent with any damaged items refunded without any questions raised. I've even received things I've not ordered or cancelled before shipping and been told to keep those at no cost as they cannot be bothered arranging a return from the UK. First stop though should always be your local Toyota dealership who will always give a 10% discount if you ask for it. I use my local dealer for parts that can get damaged, like brake lines. So you can them view before you buy when you pick them up. Also in the first line is your forum favourites of TCB Parts and the local stripper Keron. So shop around for the best deals, but the UAE is well off my list of places to go.

The Japanese OEM wheels were all 16". With 7j width fitting standard 225/50R16. It's rare to find the OE wheel in a 16" 8j to take a wider rear tyre. Its acceptable to fit the UK or Euro spec OEM 17" wheels onto a jspec. They are hard to find though. If you struggle to find a 8j wheel then you can go up to a 235 tyre on the 7j to get a wider tyre on the rear. There is a 17" OEM set for sale in the for sale section of this site at the moment. You probably need to become a member to view that. They don't come up very often so you may want to check it out sooner rather than later.

You've taken your pic from the other side to the picture I took so its hard to tell. This is the pic I took looking into the space. [URL="https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=222627&d=1506779705"]https://old.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=222627&d=1506779705[/URL]

68101-14220 pre-facelift 68101-14230 facelift

I bought a spare green tint one a few years back but I believe these are discontinued now. So don't throw away your old one when you replace it as someone will likely need it at some time, scratched or not.

[quote name='JamesArup']Also need to figure out where the loom plug connectors are Cheers[/QUOTE] To access the rear sensor clips you need to remove the curved boot panels by the speakers. You do need to tease and slide those off more than pull otherwise some plastic positioning clips just snap off. The covers are held in place by a few screws so losing a clip or two isn't then end of life as we know it but obviously if you can avoid that its best to keep them intact. Once they are off you can follow the lead to the plug that sits just under the seat belt housing. Easy enough to disconnect with one hand in the small space using thumb and middle finger to tug whilst pushing down the plug clip with a free finger. The front sensor plugs are on a much shorter path from the sensor so easy to follow running along and from the upper control arm. If you do find there is no circuit then your sensor is dead (or wire cut) and it'll need to be replaced with a working sensor. Obtaining those is a bit of a task these days as there was only one front sensor still available as a new item last time I checked. You can fit any sensor 1993 - 2002 even though the codes changed with the facelift years.

You can check the ABS sensors are OK by measuring the resistance from their loom plug connectors. The spec for this is in the workshop manual, I think it is something like 1.2k ohms plus or minus a little from my fading memory. Since you have all the codes logged you might want to do a battery disconnect hard reset and do a short drive to see which if all codes resurface.

Are there such things as low mileage bits on a 20+ year old car? I bought a low mileage set of turbos to hold as spares and the amount of shaft play doesn't seem very low mileage to me. There is a low mileage, warranted no less, na manual on eBay at the moment. Ridiculously low mileage when the average Jap car averages almost 10,000km a year. Crushed seat lumbers and a shiny gear shifter knob but its all low mileage, warranted no less. Buying old parts sold as hardly used, its a punt especially if buying off eBay.

One for sale in the top of page for sale group listing. Really cheap too.

[quote name='Mo Reviews']I agree. Though I don't personally think we are anywhere near the top of the market.[/QUOTE] I was referring to wheel price rather than car price.

It's Supra tax but worth every penny. I was writing 3 years ago that the then £300 stock wheels would add up to £2k onto a stock cars value as one of the most visible and fairly rare OEM adornments the car can have. So, the way I see things panning out a 17" wheel set is worth £1k, effectively adding value that will cover the outlay, but they won't ever yield much more than this. The stock wheel price ceiling has been hit barring possible inflation rises in the future. So, my personal recommendation is that if you don't particularly want them that you should punt your set out, whilst we are fumbling around at the top of the market.

Its more likely to be due to a worn valve guide or failed stem seal than the weather.

From what I've read about Turbo design and evolution over the years the turbo oil pressure at max engine revs is typically around half of the oil pump delivery pressure. The usual way to throttle pressure of fluids would be in the delivery pipe design or throttle plate which will impose a flow restriction giving back pressure on the inlet relative to the exit flow pressure. Maybe you could just look at your oil feed pipe bore size as a means to throttle back the delivery flow reducing the oil pressure. That way it'd be a permanent setup whereas what you propose is very much variable and would require a gauge to monitor it. A pressure variable setup would presumably only come into its own as a benefit if you have a habit of switching massively between super thin to super thick on the oil viscosity grade of oil that you use; basically if the car is used regularly as both a track ragger and a daily driver. There has to be a simple equation somewhere online expressing volume in to volume out will change pressure by X. Here is an article on the flow and pressure options you have.

There is one bid on that piece of junk. Its got to be phone a friend for a bump.

The tyre and gears calculator which someone must have spent a bit of time generating does point to the gearbox potentially being stuck in 3rd gear. Which could be the dreaded ECU or something like an oil change needed.

This might help you work things out. So long as you are OK at working things out. Supra-Gear-wheel-size-Calculations.xls

It'd be hard to figure out what is different with your car without counting teeth on the gears to check the ratios are correct but a different diff casing/oil cooling would be an easy spot on a UK car. Its actually quite common practice on particularly US muscle cars to proactively raise the gear ratio to give a car a much faster take off and 60 times so a previous owner could have set it up as a street racer if the casings are all factory correct. Another factor to calculate any contribution to the discrepancy will be any difference to the OE wheel size and tyre profile. If these haven't been matched optimally its very easy to get yourself a fair few % out on the circumference of the tyre, though not as far as 15%.