rider

If you do a forum search on this you'll find out who is holding the club spare set to send off to SGS Engineering as its far easier to swap one strut at a time than send two off and wait for a week to refit with absolutely no hydraulic assistance holding that heavy tailgate up.

Back in 2017 a set of springs was £500, coils were £650, dust shields £120, plastic strut rod top bits £50. Those were of course new and Toyota prices. All in it'd be nearing £1,500 for new but the springs were all gone by 2017. Last time I checked all bar the springs are still available.

Always worthwhile considering with this kind of offering is that the OEM springs are discontinued. I bought a set a while back just to grab a spare set of non rusted springs.

You can get parked up insurance but that's not usually any cheaper than normal insurance expecially if only for a few months cover. So to keep fire and theft cover its best to leave the insurance running. Parking up for half the year does mean the milage is reduced which should be reflected in your insurance premium. I have my car on 1,000 mile a year limit, it actually only manages around 250 miles a year these days.

Only 2 years ago there was a healthy majority of Mk4 Supras taxed at this time of year over those off road, on SORN. This winter, for the first time ever, more Mk4's are now on SORN than taxed. The drive to garage storage is well on track for this ageing icon of the road. I'm firmly with the majority on this, SORN from October to April.

The differential i sent was a third member so that is just the gears and shaft on a part casing that bolts onto the axle casing. It was new and open so it didn't contain oil, other than the assembly oil. It had also never contained oil. They initially rejected it but rescinded that when I sent them a picture of a third member which shows it could never contain oil.

Did you use Parcelbroker? Using weight and dimensions provided the attchment list comes up. shipping.pdf

Most cars will veer slightly left on a normal road due to the camber. See if it does the same on a good size car park. If it does then your alignment does need checking again. If you want a heavier feel then you can set the caster higher. I went for 4 degrees when I had my alignment done to give a heavier feel to the steering. You might want to look at a proper alignment place rather than a garage. Chassis tuning is a bit of a black art. I went to Center Gravity.

You don't really want to use Royal Mail to post to the USA for the same reason you get raided when ParcelForce clear UK customs. Royal Mail would hand over the USPS and the recipient would then land a big handling fee. So, its best to ship by door to door courier like DHL, UPS or FedEx to avoid the painful delay and costs of inserting a third party clearing/handling fee. FedEx £24 on a 1kg package or £34 on a 3kg package if its package strengthened is about as good as it'll ever get for that size package, door to door with an option to add insurance and pre-pay duties.

So long as it doesn't contain oil then they will ship it. I shipped a dry differential through them, car parts are fine.

I'm sure I've posted this before in the recent past. Anyway, Parcelbroker says FedEx £24. You'll then have extras like insurance. That's on their economy 5 day service.

As a side, temperature does have an appreciable impact on air density; essentially the amount of oxygen entering the engine. For every 5C the amount of oxygen raises or lowers 1.7% at sea level. So you'd expect a winter dyno run to return higher bhp than a mid summer run on the same setup vehicle. There is a rough rule of thumb of a 3% power loss for every 1,000 foot elevation due to thinning air so its just a calculation away to work out how much bhp is impacted per 5C temperature change. If anyone can be bothered, I lost the will to take it any further.

The exhaust gas temperature sensor is there to feed back to your ECU things like the engine is running too lean - its getting too hot down here. So, it would have an input into the fuel air ratio to prevent component damage from excess heat. Not all cars have exhaust gas temperature sensors, even fewer back in the 90's, so its an added safety feature that you can probably live without until you have a problem that goes by undetected..

Does your car have a FMIC or SMIC? One advantage of a FMIC that I have read is the cooler air input allows the turbo to spool faster which may be a reason. Probably Summer to Winter air temperature does to.

I believe the USA stocks are similar to the UK turbos with steel vanes. The squiffy bhp is similar to what my car dyno tested at around 16 years ago even though it all looks stock under the bonnet bar a small snorting Blitz BOV and there is no boost gauge or controller anywhere. Maybe its just a special engine with whatever Japanese magic dust that was once sprinkled but whatever it was it has proven to be 100% reliable over more than 2 decades. I assume that I have stock ceramic turbos fitted, though I wouldn't know for certain as they have never been removed during my ownership. So the bhp levels are good for a long stress free life, is it worth reaching for that extra 20bhp and risk throwing the cars impregnable reliability out of the wastegate?

I've experience that on my old MG when it had a sticking cable. Try a blob of grease at either end.

Just been emailed a discount code as they have missed me, its been a while. Code: RETURN10 You should be able to work out what the discount level is? Maybe I should try RETURN90 and see what happens?

Gone are the good old days of a traffic PC in his Skoda where you could barter a little. The one and only time I got caught and fined for speeding the copper knocked 10mph off the speed. Its a bit too clinical getting pinged by a far away camera. I think he was probably being nice as he VASCAR timed my progress and after the fact I read somewhere there must be two police in the vehicle to verify a manual timed VASCAR pull so I probably could have contested it seeing he was a lonesome PC. I must have got away with 30,000 miles driving comfortably over the speed limit beforehand though. Sometimes, you just need to fess up and say fair cop.

You wouldn't want to go to Toyota for the Denso condenser as they had it listed as a £350 part when I last checked in with them in 2016. Compared to the Denso part back then that I could land from the USA for for a fraction of the Toyota UK price.

There could be some urgency on this one or It could be the first £50k car seen on the forum pages with 20% VAT and potentially 10% duty from January 1st as a Brexit bonus. There can also also be issues registering a significantly modified car in the UK (similar to issues importing into NZ) though it does often depend on what is declared on the C384 and following V55 registration doc and also if customs are happy to nod it through.

You need to move on the Denso condenser fast as its an item rising in price fast. Whether that is a sign that Denso are or have phased out production or just Supra tax I don't know. But, the part has doubled in price in 3 years. Now available in the USA for around US$100 so I'd expect it'll land somewhere around the £150 mark. The Denso p/n is 4770589 and the drier 4780500.

You will probably be able to polish up the headlights to get those clearer or back to clear. Lots of stuck on plastic has always been an excellent harbinger of rusting metal behind. You will need to look out for some OEM pods so you can replace the damaged sill adornments in your goal to return to stock. These are getting more expensive by the day but last time I looked the silver ones were still available from Toyota. Be prepared to find rust in or on the sills though and if you don't, that'd be a bonus. You have a bit of painting to do anyway as the colour match on the front bumper doesn't look to be a good match to the wings and bonnet. A lot of the stock look is inside the cabin as well with a drive in the cars early years to personalise with different steering wheels and paint the dash every colour imaginable plus cut in the odd extra dial or booster. If the interior is intact and original then you are doing very well. Under the bonnet people are craving standard air boxes as just about everyone fitted a cone filter back in the day. These all got binned so are like hens teeth now so if you have the standard air box that's another big plus in the drive for stock. It looks like a budget £3k project to me just on the outside bits. At the end of the day its all down to what you want from the car. If its to drive and enjoy then money usually isn't the determining factor. If its as an investment then what you can spend is tied to what you paid for it and only you and the former owner are aware of that number.

Front sub-frames don't rust and the front end in general doesn't see the flying dust, grit and stones that the back section does. With the front end, if the hub dust shields are original and in decent condition then everything else will be also. It's big money doing an underside overhaul so not something everyone can afford or even justify, I recon with my own lavish money splurge even with 100 hours of free labour, for every £1 spent it might add 20p to the cars value. As an investment decision, it sucks. If people are worried about rust then its a simple money no object or I really should sell decision as rust is something no 25 year old car was ever designed to survive.

Facelift seats have a noisier pattern, best covered by something like leather.

That's got me reaching for my comfort blanket. One of the things I'm missing already is the date of joining has gone which differentiated from those who have recently joined to those who have been around a while to the founding grandfathers of nearly 20 years ago. Its going to be harder to cut newbies slack on dumb questions if you don't know they haven't been around when the question was asked for the first 20 times already.