rider

Bit of a mish mash, wide body vinyl wrap ST5 on eBay. A really low mileage 1993 example. Be interesting to see what it reaches if nothing else.

Its purely there as a safety feature. To let the ECU know if your engine is running too lean, too hot so it can make changes to the fuel/air ratio to cool the gasses down, As with all sensors, you only need them to tell you or the ECU there is a problem, remove this and your ECU will never know if there is a problem. The good side is over temp on exhaust gasses tends to be more of an issue in smaller high compression ratio engines than old big lumps like the 2JZ with its massive oversupply of oil and water flow/cooling galleries.

As an aside for anyone thinking of doing this its best to just do it if it has never been done. When the clips fail bits of hard plastic just crumble down into the spark plug well and then you have the danger of bits falling into the cylinders when the spark plug comes out. You can't get down into the recess unless you pull the covers or the spark plug. So, its a pain best avoided. I've had to extract plastic clip fragments with a grease globbed screwdriver tip which isn't that easy to do. Rather than solder in the new clips and tails its much better to just remove the wires from the new clips and then fit the clips onto your existing wiring. Its an easy job to do, all you need is a little watchmaker flathead screwdriver or similar to move the internal clip away from the wire barb. This video link is excellent and shows how to take the clips apart to then put onto your existing wires.

I think and fabricator would rather the onus be on you to get the measurements correct. If you use a broom handle and cut to size then that should give you an accurate shaft and coupler length. Then you would just need to add on the spline diameter, teeth pitch number and groove length to sleeve into the axle shaft. Lastly, what material you want used for the shaft and whether one piece of knuckled. Lots of things to work out and get right there. Another reason a fabricator will likely want a job spec rather than a simple can you knock this up for me.

I have a set sitting in my garage sold to me by a forum member as off a 40k mile car that was going single. I'd be happy to let go for what I paid for them a few years back which is £200. buyer collects (Shropshire) or arranges a courier. I haven't stripped anything down so still has the two turbos, outlet, actuators and oil pipes all bolted together.

A prop shaft is a pretty key piece to the smooth running of a car and can flip a car if it all goes wrong. So, personally, I'd avoid any Frankenstein offering. Not a million miles from Yorkshire in Salford are these guys who may be worth a call. The options on car and sports car props is limited as most UK manufacturers deal in plant, truck and marine applications. http://www.northwestpropshafts.com/car-and-motorsport

I wouldn't have thought VHT paint was required for a gearbox but some VHT paints need a primer and some don't. I never painted my diff fins because paint adhesion onto aluminum or alloy surfaces can be a bit flakey especially if the surface isn't super clean. As evin says you do need to cure these ceramic paint after they have gone touch dry. A curing oven for 30 minutes is usually recommended but if you don't have a oven large enough to accept the casing then a heat gun is going to be your only solution. With a heat gun you will struggle to get to the required temp over a long time across a large surface area so its not ideal. If you read around with this kind of paint they talk about sticking in ovens at 180C for the curing process. A heat gun runs a lot hotter than this at the tip so you can get there but it'll take a good amount of time to cure an entire casing worth of paint.

Tidying up my bookmarks I came across this old link to a Lexus forum and seeing people are sometimes scratching around for parts these days then Lexus cousins to the Mk4 Supra are always worthwhile investigating for a common parts bin. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/752177-the-definitive-mkiv-supra-sc300-400-suspension-crossover-thread.html The Lexus site still has a decent footfall as it has evolved to cover models as they are introduced so the link has been active for over 10 years and should be around for a while yet. To future proof for as long as this forum lasts I've taken a pdf copy of the thread and attached that to this thread. lexusforum.pdf

My company site has India #3 so I'm going to guess India as the forum #1.

There are a few pics already dotted around the forum:

20A is a big fuse for a radio, must be there to run 250,000W subwoofers.

Prices seem to be on the rise for these, illustrated by a £800 front sub-frame on eBay. It does have hubs which may be why the seller is pumping the price a tad. There is also a fully stripped front frame for £500. There is even a stripped rear one for £1,000 from Poland. Seeing I paid over a cool £1k for a front and rear set four years ago it probably is about right. I have a front that I would let go with hubs (no sensors) for £500, the rear complete with arms that I have has some sentimental value for me seeing it is the one original to my car that I swapped out for the one I bought after having that galvanized but everything is for sale at the right price.

Still available from Toyota if no scrap part is available.

I started with a budget of £5k which included the cost of a fully refurbished frame off a low mileage car but that turned out to be a bit of a miss with lots of rust under the shiny powder coating and poly bushes that were softer than marshmallows and a couple of solid bushes thrown in. I thought I would probably recycle some bolts, nuts and washers because they cost a lot of £'s each. In the end, I recycled nothing bar a second hand anti-roll bar that I purchased because you couldn't buy a new one any longer but it did look like new. Once you start, you are unlikely to want to return that corroded bolt to save a few £. My £5k budget quickly became an unrealistic target that only an eternal optimist could have imagined. It's a good rule of thumb to think up a number and double it, then add a bit of Supra tax on top for your contingencies. There are at least two Supras running around now with a rear galvanized sub-frame so its a growing group. I painted my one black, the other owner left it unpainted for a bit of bling.

You should consider galvanizing your rear subframe rather than blasting and repainting as you cannot get to the inside half to blast and paint that. Oven stripping and galvanizing will get into every crevice and inside surface and it isn't that expensive. It was, from a fading memory, about £120 in 2017. As for the arms, bolts, roll bars, links and bushes I doubt you'd be able to get together a full set these days through just the normal suppliers, that was a major task that had me scratching and scraping around a whole load of sources years ago. You probably want to get someone like Paul at TCB to see what he can still find and then try to fill in the blanks by posting here and on FB as many of us hold spare bushes or other parts because we are Supra hoarders. You will probably need to swap out your rear anti-roll bar if it has lots of miles on it. Or get new tube sections welded into the bar where it wears away behind the bushes. That or fit an aftermarket effort. It all depends on how stock or 'upgraded' you want to go. When I did my underside I ended up well beyond the five figures £ mark in 2017 and Supra inflation has moved a ways since then. Its not going to be cheap whatever you look to do. I do still stand and admire my work when I have the car up on the ramp, so I gain at least 2 hours of satisfaction each year from my pristine new parts OEM suspension setup.

Someone did ask me that in 2019 and I said for a TT6 VIN plate and shell in great condition, that has to be £10,000 all day long. Not bad when the scrap value is about £150. I came across this eBay listing today which makes me consider my 2019 valuation was a little on the conservative side. Anyone for a third of a Supra shell, trolley not included?

Is there such a thing as drop in larger injectors. I thought the ECU has something to say about that?

Seems everyone has their own best way. Mine was to push the dust boot into the bore and then fit the split metal retaining ring. Pull out the boot and clamp the whole calliper in the vice. Then stretch the boot over the base of the piston. That was the hard part. Then slide the piston into the bore past the rubber sealing ring. I found it was easier with three hands with wifey getting the piston into the boot while I stretched it wide with four fingers. My approach may not be the best as I used 5 dust boots on three callipers having torn two with the stretching over the piston.

Keystroke error - SRD If you end up tearing a dust boot or two you'll probably be wishing you didn't bother.

A new front pair of calliper and carriage cost around £850 the second hand price for a full front/rear set is in the region of £120 you shouldn't need to pay too much. Before refurbing any yourself I'd check if SRS have any in stock as they knock them out at a very reasonable price (£I think I paid £120 for one front) and save you the sore fingers pulling rubber dust boots around. If they are out they may be available to refurb your current set.

It looks like the USDM cars have a left hand indicator stalk so maybe that unit is a direct swap? https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3886/14840275694_6c90298685_o.jpg 84310-1B120

Are you changing out the front wheel bearings as well. The bearings have got to be a must do with your new press to play with. You did write you were going to blast the shields to see what condition they are in but is that effort worthwhile when new ones are only around £20 each. I have some spare 16" dust shields if they are no longer available but they were when I last checked, quite recently.

Some of the old threads are the best! People do need to read the small print with any trader they deal with. Although not an 'official' forum trader Amayama is one parts supplier regularly used by members that has simply the best get out of doing anything clauses in their terms. If you want to claim on a warranty you cannot have touched the part, no independent mechanic can have touched the part, only a main dealer will suffice. Then if a claim is to be lodged an authorised individual from within the service department of that main dealer must write a letter outlining exactly what the issue is. Then finally, the offending part must be returned to the Middle East at the senders expense. Then, just then you may get a refund on the part, no mention of any taxes or freight charges paid (both ways). So burning hoops navigated you may only recover a fraction of your outlay. Amayama do point you straight to their terms if you ever try to contact them with an issue. This aspect of Amayama trading and their panache for just cancelling items on an order placed sends them to rock bottom of my personal go to pile of suppliers.

My car would cut out at 158mph on the gauge and power would be restored at 155mph. I did a lot of 157mph driving in Germany.

I knew the car was fast enough when I would force BMW M3's of the era to move aside on the Autobahn, something they often appeared reluctant to do. But that's BMW drivers for you.