rider

I heard the owner resigned his forum membership because of the 'banter' he received. It was the NI car brought over that turned out to be a bit rusty and the current owner threw a shed load of cash at the car having the underneath sprayed and some new parts fitted. He did then try to sell it and listed it on forum, but with no takers doubled down and put it through a lot of expensive restorative work instead. Jungle drums have whispered what the car owes him so I would expect it has to have at least a £50k reserve so he can walk away taking a big hit.

I take it back listing has today been pulled and others from the seller for other engines.

With fleabay it doesn't matter how many people report a listing it still runs and runs.

I actually think the bonnet raised lip looks more like its caused by a drooping bumper sloping away than a high bonnet. The gap line seems to close as you round the bottom of the light to the edge of the wheel arch. Other then the too wide and stepped leading lip the side gaps look fine so the bonnet looks like it could well be fitting just right.

To give you a panel fit guide. I've had my car since 1998, from when it was 2 years old, and it's not been resprayed so although i cannot say for certain I assume that my car has the factory panel fit.

Strangely, the bonnet front lip and the tailgate bottom lip are sitting higher than they should do. It was sold as having a glass out respray and some of the sellers pics showed it stripped so its probably just that the bonnet and tailgate weren't quite panel gapped to where they should sit. Enjoy the car on your journey to wherever you plan on taking it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWZCHkk9n2c&ab_channel=ehowauto I've only ever had this when the paint didn't much like the primer. Might be worth your while sanding a few bubbles out to see if its just the lacquer that dried too fast or its solvent/water under the paint layer. If its just the top coat you could probably rescue it to look fine at 6 feet with a sand and lacquer blow over pending a proper strip and repaint at your convenience.

Just so people don't consider this an unlikely opportunity, the pics are all copied over from a USA advert that ran in June 2019. 38 bids so far! Scammers delight! TT6, engine and gearbox combo

I've raised this to the mod group as a seller shouldn't be posing as a potential buyer even if the car had turned out to be a shining example.

What is a HEIC file? Never come across that so I certainly wouldn't attempt to open it. I don't think Supra's were posh enough to have cigar lighters but they certainly have a cigarette lighter. I bought a spare via TCB in 2017 for a few £ that is the same as the original so I could have a pristine, never used, cigarette lighter in the car. Cannot recall the part number, don't need to recall the part number, just ask Paul.

The thread is meandering. I'd suggest that the OP ask a mod to move this thread into Supra chat and start up a new for sales thread if the car is now officially, actually, for sale.

I think a NA one would do just as well

Now is an excellent time to sell as prices have risen by 40% in the US and Japanese markets over the last 16 months meaning the UK isn't seeing much in the way of fresh imports which in turn is limiting supply that then helps sellers no end. The UK market is a lot out on its own at the moment, you see it from the wanted ads here that people still love and in many ways expect a bit of a bargain. So, although overseas markets are going a bit rampant with Supra inflation its not quite at the same levels here. I do think we are 2 years off peak Supra, before stagnation or even downsides pressures will start to be exerted onto Supra prices for all but the very best of the best. Your car has been largely unmolested so it will be seeing signs of rust as you note on the tailgate and MOT man has noted underneath. That isn't unusual in a near 30 year old car but its something that needs investment in to ensure the ravages of time don't become a terminal decline. And by money, we are talking serious money, big out of pocket money. Something best left to someone else to take on and pay for. 21 years of ownership I think is a big plus for any car, its not unique 22 years here but definitely rare. That you can show a full history presumably backed by MOT certs and receipts is very rare for these cars where many have passed through several hands including into hands that couldn't afford to properly service and maintain a £70k car at todays value that they only paid £5k for when Supras were at their cheapest point 10 years ago. I'd recommend that there is no point having the car just sitting, rusting and fading away in your garage as that pathway just leads you into a big spend or a devalued car over what you can realise in a sale today. PS - I think you need to add a price (forum rules) if you want this to remain in the classifieds rather than be moved into Supra chat.

I'd venture it has absolutely nothing to do with an oil and filter change. So many question, lets start with how do you know its only doing 10mpg? Did you run 100 miles and fill up with 10 gallons or did you go off the fuel gauge? Is there a smell of fuel around the car or unburnt fuel exiting the exhaust? I cannot imagine anyone would be able to offer any meaningful input to your question without a lot more background and information.

I can only speak from my own one car experience where my leads into the coil connectors were wonderfully supple, pliable and silky smooth; looked factory fresh. I have to agree that if you do have frazzled, burnt, scorched and disintegrated wiring then it is best that it is replaced.

Clearly you have a fuel issue so I'd start with the fuel pump. It may be running but its the pressure and volume that is key to the correct amount of fuel being delivered. Lots of fuel pumps, especially the cheap Chinese efforts have plastic gears which don't last well under pressure. Top brands, when they are genuine, use metal gears. I'd start by checking the fuel delivery pressure, if I had a fuel pressure gauge to hand. Low fuel pressure could cause you to be too lean to start from cold. As a footnote, I did a writeup on how to spot and identify if you have a genuine or knock off fuel pump so thats somewhere on archive. The general principles apply to all makes though my writeup was specific to a Walbro pump Link added

There are a lot of rusty Supras out there with most costing around £30k.

Thanks for that info, I would never have thought the cam covers were so delicate. Fortunately I have a multitude of pliers and pincers for all eventualities.

I've got another load of new OEM bits ready to fit that I've had together for a while now and I'm working on getting myself fired up to do it before taking the car off SORN at the end of March. Just want to know if there are any tips to taking off of the valve covers and PCV valve swap that'll make life easier. None of it needs doing parts wise but these was a passenger side valve cover oil leak I noted when I changed the spark plugs and I have the parts sitting around so I may as well get on with it. New bits ready to fit: 6 new OE Denso coil packs PCV Valve + all to and between cover rubber pipes (they were expensive!) 16 washer seals for the valve covers 6 new coil clips Loads of number 7 loom clips Valve cover gasket set Silicone sealant Plastic cover - A2 bolt set I've read removing the rear of engine water hose makes removal of the cover bolts in that area a lot easier. Is that so and do you lose much water when taking this hose off? Is it fiddly or easy, seeing its restricted room with bonnet in place I'm guessing its going to get fiddly and possibly annoying? I haven't looked at the replacement PCV valve for a while, is it a push fit and any tips for getting the old presumably by now brittle one out? I changed the spark plugs a few hundred miles ago so beyond checking their torque I'm not planning on touching those. Any pointers people have will be gratefully received.

Yes, it can be removed with the bumper fitted.

Its the first time I've read a GTE having as a good bit a new ignition coil fitted but aside from that its a high mileage but genuine mileage from its MOT history. Probably been run on a budget for a good many years with all the worn tyres references in the MOT history. The write up doesn't seem well thought out, timing belt has apparently been changed and it was also changed twice in Japan. Well the car was imported in 2006 or earlier so it should have had more than one change in the UK; two or three. Again, suggesting the car has likely been run on a tight budget over the years. Lots of Supras have been pampered, money no object. Lots have been ragged to within an inch of their lives or flogged finally to death. I get the feeling this probably wasn't one of the pampered ones. Allying that to its relatively high mileage (150k), non stock colour on top of what appears to be stock silver and it being an auto I'd say the £23k is on the high side. I'd be wanting a pampered car for that price. At 150k miles I'd be wanting a properly pampered car, not one missing lots of interior panels and what is that steering wheel. The other thing to consider is that after almost 30 years chances are with a 'on a budget' car nothing much will have been replaced that didn't absolutely have to be replaced. Lots of things can wear out after 150k miles and near on 30 years on a car. What would you do with failed or failing suspension, roll bars and bushes? Many OE parts are just not around any longer. Many of us have been proactively updating their cars components just because of lowering availability. New paint can be sprayed on at any time, on a near 30 year old car new paint isn't really a core concern. Its rust and component condition first and second. If you are looking to do a manual conversion then the BMW M3 box, cylinder, adapter plate, tunnel and pedals are a lot cheaper than the price difference buying an original TT6. About a third of the price. I doubt a manual conversion adds much if any value on a car over leaving it stock, so its mostly lost money. Whereas buying the real original would be an investment.

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS ETS49 OE part number 8941214030 They aren't cheap, cost you close to £175 for one.

The 'weak' point of the W204 is the timing chain. Its described as a time bomb destined to fail some time after 160,000 miles. So I wouldn't go for a car around or above that mileage if the chain hasn't been replaced seeing it is a major engine out job. My car is a 63 plate that I bought 4 years ago and it's proved totally reliable beyond the other non-service service items on a Merc. The front ABS sensors seem timed to destruct at 100,000 miles. You read it everywhere and my two went at 96,000 and 99,000 miles. Mercedes change these as a pair, I replaced mine as they failed using the OE Bosch part for 20% of the price Mercedes quoted. I got to see that my inner wing areas are pristine too because that is the one area these cars can rust if dirt and leaves get behind the wheel well plastic cover. The stop/start battery needed replacing in the Autumn of last year, after 7 years which is a good term, and they are pricey at £140. Other than that I've only replaced brake pads and discs because the discs did have a pronounced lip after 100k miles. They are Brembo front brakes on the AMG so no problems there and I refitted with Brembo discs and pads. I can service the car with about £60 in oils and parts, the various filters which do cost over £100 for OEM parts (the big box air filter is expensive) are only replaced every 4 years. I've only done 15k miles in my Merc and its still on 4mm tyre tread with the same tyres that came with the car. So although the Michelin OE run flat tyres aren't cheap (£140 a corner) they seem good for around 40k miles which I rate a decent. I recon I only ever saw max 28k miles out of a premium tyre on the Supra. I've enjoyed owning the Merc, its going onto my daughter this April as I have two daily drivers and I've driven both a combined 2k miles since lockdown in April. It was a choice of Range Rover or Merc to go and in that battle, the Range Rover stays. Its a car that I'll rank as one of the best cars I've owned for quality, reliability and all round durability. Looks like a grandad car but I'm OK with that. The only thing I'd recommend different to my choice is to go automatic, I chose manual and the gearing is a little too high for town cruising and the e-brake can get interesting on steep inclines. The e-brake give you one second from touching the accelerator to brake disengage, that is one second max to match the biting point and to match engine revs. Also, with an e-brake if you forget to depress the brake when you park the brake isn't engaged even if you depress the separate parking brake pedal and the car can go rolling off. The e-brake must be a hydraulic pressure brake so no final applied pressure = no brake. That is not going to be an issue in an automatic car in park. Nor will roll back with an auto on a hill climb from a stopped position. So go auto, everyone, anyone go auto.

I've owned BMW and Audi's and had issues with them all, some pretty expensive. One was a £7k cam belt fail on a V6 Audi 26 months after an Audi garage service. The last daily I bought is a Merc C class. The 220cdi AMG is fast enough with its 170bhp and still returns around 60mpg on a run and 55mpg average. Low road tax too, just over £100 a year and for me its really cheap to insure. The Merc is much more solid than the BMW or Audi cars I have owned, it has a quality durable feel the BMW and Audi just can't match. The Merc is now 8 years old and hasn't a spec of rust anywhere, sails through its MOT like no other car I've owned. I know its going to sail through as I do a on ramp pre-MOT inspection on the car and even at 101,000 miles it looks and drives like new. The underside is all protected with full length plastic shields so when they come off to check oil levels etc its so clean. I wouldn't buy a BMW or Audi again, I would though definitely consider another Merc.

If you remove the tank cover which is only about 10 bolts then you'll be able to clear out the soil from inside the tank cover and check its inside condition, mine was pretty bad and had about 4kg of soil and stones inside, and then you can get to the cabin air vent bolts. Its a good time to get the tank guard off for a look over as you can still buy that part, around £240 from Toyota or £200 from Mark on the forum.