rider

One reported issue puts me off the car, every review says you cannot drive with the windows down unless you like a good buffeting. The German ZF 8 speed boxes are good, I have one in my range Rover, but they are known to fall apart if not maintained with fresh oil every 50k or so miles. Some OEM's have 50k miles service intervals, others 60k miles or 6 years on the boxes. Some have them as a sealed for life unit. That life will likely be around 80k miles.

I have a pneumatic 9l oil extractor that gets used a lot on my wide variety of motorised cars and plant. Clean and easy. On the Supra, it managed a PAS oil fluid flush in about 30 seconds sucking on the return line. Though its main use for me is on engine oil extraction from plant with awkward drain plug location or cars with specific vacuum drain tubes. I also have a car with no drain plug on the differential so it gets used on that. For under £30 for a manual pump with 9l capacity reservoir, that's a keen price for a product with decent Amazon buyer reviews. My oil extractor is one on my regular go to garage tools. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CDFY1CC4/ref=pe_9466511_957079191

That suggests to me that the problem lies not within the mirror itself but with its screen mount. If you have someone push the mirror mount against the screen when you drive then you will see if that stops the vibration.

That isn't normal, see if it continues if you dip the mirror. If that stops it then just raise the mirror manually to give you the non dipped view in the dipped setting.

You can gloss up acrylic paint by adding a medium to it, effectively a varnish, to then spray as one coat. With an acrylic paint once it has dried out it is near impossible to reactivate so doesn't lift with polish. So it seems the OP could be polishing off cellulose paint which wouldn't be a factory applied paint choice in the 1990's but may well have still been a body shop choice in the 1990's especially with old school sprayers who grew up with cellulose.

To think I threw away an aerial because the antenna wasn't lifting when the motor was churning away. I didn't know then that you could get a replacement part for the antenna so that aerial got thrown. I do hold that part as a spare on my garage shelf now. It looks like your blast cabinet has external air. I've been thinking about buying a cabinet for years but the cfm on my narrow 1/4 air line wouldn't be enough to operate it effectively. What size bead or grit are you using and at what cfm air through what size air line? I have a 16cfm compressor but it struggles to drive air tools so it probably only delivers 10cfm through the narrow bore tubing. Which is fine for pumping tyres or paint spraying but I'd suspect is a bit weak for bead blasting.

The car paint isn't cellulose. We know that for two reasons, thinners don't reactivate the paint and there is a clear coat which is something you never see on top of a gloss oil based cellulose paint. The 90's were before the era of water based paints so its probably safe to assume the original paint would be acrylic with a clear coat lacquer finish.

I have a self refurbished leather 3 spoke wheel with horn boss that I haven't got around to fitting onto my own car yet (which has the cheaper composite wheel variant original) so I could let it go for £1,200 collected or arrange your own courier. That is about half the new price before they were discontinued. There is a cheaper option available on eBay presently for £1,031 and that includes delivery. If you phoned them up and took it direct, rather than via eBay, you could probably get 10% off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256407033710

They seem to take a while to shift but I've seen the j spec bonnets tend to move at around £400 to £500 but they do get advertised for more. I haven't seen a UK spec listed in recent times, I'd guess add a hundred for the scoop, maybe more seeing they are only available as fibreglass repro's these days. It's all a best guess seeing it all depends who and how many people are in the market. In the good old days those bonnets were £100 all day long but Supra inflation has had its way.

If it were me I'd take a punt on the Denso units of the same era having the same casing, plug connector and internals with the only discernible difference being the mounting bracket location, number of and shape. The Supra module has three mount locations so the Celica and the 90-92 model year Land Cruiser has a similar casing to the Supra under model number (land Cruiser 85980–60020) but both do use different shaped mounting brackets. My theory depends on whether Toyota supplied the mounts along with the module which would give a convenient explanation why the same module could then have several car model specific part numbers. I never tested this theory with actual purchases so it just remains a theory at this time.

The link below is to a USA based value tracker for the Supra, or indeed any model retailed in the USA giving a 5 year history on bids and sales for the car model. It isn't split into specifics on manual or auto or turbo or NA but it does show the average trend and individual information on each data point. Prices in the USA have softened a fair amount during 2023 as they did here in the UK. The price breakdown does drill down into mileage impact on pricing which is a useful guide to the depreciation curve. There is nothing comparable for the UK market but it does seem similar price trends so is a useful reference point for those watching which way the market is moving. I always felt 2023 would be peak Supra so it could be a gentle drift down from here as the cars age gracefully with precious few spare parts available to maintain them in a Toyota guise. https://www.classic.com/m/toyota/supra/4th-gen?chart=sales

There is currently a black carpet for sale on eBay

If your vent is a replica of the UK genuine then you can generate a template from the thread for the hole drilling. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/european_hood_scoop_install/index.html

There are differences with fuel delivery and circuitry in NA or TT or modified so it's not easy for anyone to be specific with a list of things to check. This link will give you some pointers to relay check and bypass but its specific to a TT setup which your car may or may not be. https://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/73726-fuel-pump-issue-help-please/

It would be impossible to say what pretty much anything is worth without pictures as rolling shells come with bits or without bits and in a variety of conditions. Bits add to the valuable. Bits like tailgates with glass worth £1k or missing £0. With or without aluminium bonnets, there is another £600. Some come with lights others don't, there is another £1,200. Some come with dented panels some come with straight panels. Some come with good useable/sellable set of wheels some come with not so good wheels. Some come with an interior, part interior or no interior. Is the shell supported on the original sub frames and drive shafts? They fetch strong money these days.

I assume you will be after new bolts so Toyota would be a good place to start. Some people are happy with using recycled bolts but I have always avoided that on suspension parts as they are safety critical. With high torque bolts the threads get stretched and smoothed on first tighten which means you need a higher tightening torque to achieve the same preload you had during the first tightening. That is a think up a number exercise.

I had a RR that would develop a vibration between 30mph and 55mph, above or below that range there was no vibration. It turned out to be a sticky brake calliper.

Here is one that is salvageable for £300. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126294019044

https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/245488-refurbishing-an-oem-leather-steering-wheel/

The stock wheel came in two varieties. One is composite covered giving a hard rubber feel. These do polish up a lot with use. The other much more expensive option was the leather covered wheel. Last year you could still buy the composite wheel new for around £750 from memory which isn't that bad. That is without the horn boss though that was also still available and from memory that is around £600. The leather ones are only available second hand now and those tend to start at £300 for destroyed versions. So, you can get the leather ones cheap enough so long as you are prepared to refurbish them. I bought a leather wheel 8 years ago and refurbished it and I have to say it looks good on my parts shelf. I still haven't got around to fitting it. So if you want to go tight and keep your wallet closed then this is probably the best way to proceed. I did a write up on this forum of my leather wheel restoration that you might benefit from checking out. I found it to be quite a rewarding exercise.

It could be a lack of fuel pressure. Check the rail pressure then you can rule out a restricted filter, crushed pipe or failing pump.

Oil films are retained on metal surfaces for up to a month. There are additives common in engine oils that attract/bind the oil to a metal surface for the sole purpose of film retention on standing. Castrol pioneered a lot of this work in the 90's and they were so proud of the new oils they marketed them under the Magnatec brand with illustrations of oil bonding to metal. The seeping away of the oil film is logarithmic with time, not linear. So you could drain your oil on a Monday and refill on a Friday and the oil film will still be 30% there from the retained old oil. If you return to a car that has sat overnight and start it up only 45% of the oil film will have been retained at that start up. So there isn't much difference overnight to several days standing, because of the logarithmic time bleed on film thickness.

Just do bare in mind that to build or to refurbish is never a sound investment. With Scooters old car you have a pretty stock example to do with what you will. 15 years ago debate raged on this forum over modified compared to stock with 2 distinct camps and at that time there was a premium price that uprated cars held over the bog standard. Today, as the car has become a modern classic the bog standard is generally worth more than a modified car. So any money spent modifying the car is likely to be spent money that may if anything, lower the value of the car. On the other investment, the refurbishment, then there are many here who have spent will into 5 figures on regenerating or renewing their cars. That is never a wise investment as for every £10 spent not many £ will land onto the value. Have fun with it, whatever you decide to do and the archive record of useful information here is probably only paralleled by the US Supra forum.

If its a rolling shell around £10k. If you added some details, then probably more than that.

Worth adding if the dougnuts are NA or TT as they are different sizes as I found out when TCB sent me a NA one by mistake.