rider

There is currently a black carpet for sale on eBay

If your vent is a replica of the UK genuine then you can generate a template from the thread for the hole drilling. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/european_hood_scoop_install/index.html

There are differences with fuel delivery and circuitry in NA or TT or modified so it's not easy for anyone to be specific with a list of things to check. This link will give you some pointers to relay check and bypass but its specific to a TT setup which your car may or may not be. https://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/73726-fuel-pump-issue-help-please/

It would be impossible to say what pretty much anything is worth without pictures as rolling shells come with bits or without bits and in a variety of conditions. Bits add to the valuable. Bits like tailgates with glass worth £1k or missing £0. With or without aluminium bonnets, there is another £600. Some come with lights others don't, there is another £1,200. Some come with dented panels some come with straight panels. Some come with good useable/sellable set of wheels some come with not so good wheels. Some come with an interior, part interior or no interior. Is the shell supported on the original sub frames and drive shafts? They fetch strong money these days.

I assume you will be after new bolts so Toyota would be a good place to start. Some people are happy with using recycled bolts but I have always avoided that on suspension parts as they are safety critical. With high torque bolts the threads get stretched and smoothed on first tighten which means you need a higher tightening torque to achieve the same preload you had during the first tightening. That is a think up a number exercise.

I had a RR that would develop a vibration between 30mph and 55mph, above or below that range there was no vibration. It turned out to be a sticky brake calliper.

Here is one that is salvageable for £300. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126294019044

https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/245488-refurbishing-an-oem-leather-steering-wheel/

The stock wheel came in two varieties. One is composite covered giving a hard rubber feel. These do polish up a lot with use. The other much more expensive option was the leather covered wheel. Last year you could still buy the composite wheel new for around £750 from memory which isn't that bad. That is without the horn boss though that was also still available and from memory that is around £600. The leather ones are only available second hand now and those tend to start at £300 for destroyed versions. So, you can get the leather ones cheap enough so long as you are prepared to refurbish them. I bought a leather wheel 8 years ago and refurbished it and I have to say it looks good on my parts shelf. I still haven't got around to fitting it. So if you want to go tight and keep your wallet closed then this is probably the best way to proceed. I did a write up on this forum of my leather wheel restoration that you might benefit from checking out. I found it to be quite a rewarding exercise.

It could be a lack of fuel pressure. Check the rail pressure then you can rule out a restricted filter, crushed pipe or failing pump.

Oil films are retained on metal surfaces for up to a month. There are additives common in engine oils that attract/bind the oil to a metal surface for the sole purpose of film retention on standing. Castrol pioneered a lot of this work in the 90's and they were so proud of the new oils they marketed them under the Magnatec brand with illustrations of oil bonding to metal. The seeping away of the oil film is logarithmic with time, not linear. So you could drain your oil on a Monday and refill on a Friday and the oil film will still be 30% there from the retained old oil. If you return to a car that has sat overnight and start it up only 45% of the oil film will have been retained at that start up. So there isn't much difference overnight to several days standing, because of the logarithmic time bleed on film thickness.

Just do bare in mind that to build or to refurbish is never a sound investment. With Scooters old car you have a pretty stock example to do with what you will. 15 years ago debate raged on this forum over modified compared to stock with 2 distinct camps and at that time there was a premium price that uprated cars held over the bog standard. Today, as the car has become a modern classic the bog standard is generally worth more than a modified car. So any money spent modifying the car is likely to be spent money that may if anything, lower the value of the car. On the other investment, the refurbishment, then there are many here who have spent will into 5 figures on regenerating or renewing their cars. That is never a wise investment as for every £10 spent not many £ will land onto the value. Have fun with it, whatever you decide to do and the archive record of useful information here is probably only paralleled by the US Supra forum.

If its a rolling shell around £10k. If you added some details, then probably more than that.

Worth adding if the dougnuts are NA or TT as they are different sizes as I found out when TCB sent me a NA one by mistake.

The problem with trackers, the monitored kind, is they do tend to cost quite a bit to install and then have an annual subscription charge. I was told three years ago that most insurers require any car valued at more than £50k have a tracker fitted and operating. My Supra is agreed value covered for more than that so maybe that limit has been raised since I last discussed it with a broker/insurer. I personally wouldn't want to pay for a tracker to recover a car, if my Supra ever was stolen I'd prefer to not see it again and just receive the pay-out. I've had a stolen and recovered car in the past and with the changes to the car from before theft to after recovery I'd have strongly preferred if it had not been recovered.

There is always the buyers premium to add onto any price to arrive at the cost making the purchase price nearer to £18k. I wouldn't have gone with the SRD price guide myself but I would have expected a high mileage TT to still nudge closer to £20k before commission. There have been much lower mileage TT autos go for £25-£28k in the not too distant past and prices have slipped a little since then plus they were summer sales which does also make a difference. The auctioneers used are not what would be classed as first to mind classic car auctioneers so the audience would be limited over one of the many available higher profile options out there. So auctions do set the market price for iconic classic cars but there are several factors you can manipulate to get the best price. I'd put a lower than optimal price down to small shop window, a generally depressed car market condition and the seasonal timing of the sale. It's a price miss, but its not a massive miss. More a bargain than a steal.

That is a disappointing price. It'd be worth more than that in parts, the air box alone would be £250.

A few options on ebay.com https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=87240-60140&_sacat=0

If you only plan on using the car in the dry then waxoil probably isn't really needed and it would hide away all the new paint which any onlookers or a future buyer would surely wow at, over say seeing yet another car with a black coated underside. There are other options that could well be worth having a look into seeing it is going to be an essentially dry use car. Some OEM's are fitting electronic rust modules to new cars as an aftermarket option so that could be a means to maintain the nice paint and where any rust then did happen by, that would be very apparent and could be nipped early. The jury is out on the impact of rust modules probably at least in part because they haven't been around for that long. It'd be an easy thing to fit neatly and it'd avoid the slopping around with waxoyl to contend with on yourself and your garage floor. It is something I'd consider on a full body respray shell.

Looking at the body, you might want to ask Lee if he has a plan when he rebuilt that white Supra from the ground up. It'd make sense if there was a written plan of action to tick off as you go along and no point toiling over that if SRD have a tried and proven one to hand. I can see you are going to have hours of fun ahead.

The floppy ball joint is usually a sign of some ball wear but I've had stiff ball joints that vibrate like hell. The only way to guarantee if a ball joint has too much wear is the use a pry bar and see/hear if it knocks as you lift and drop to rise and lower the joint pressure. Even if there is no sign of wear, a ball joint can still be no good. I've never rescued a ball joint by packing in more grease through a nipple or by injecting through the rubber boot. As for ball joints, Dorman manufacture a lot of different size ball joints though these days they are probably Chinese or Mexican third party produced rather than USA manufactured products. RockAuto distribute a good amount of Dorman products. Andy Ven offers a reasonably priced replacement service though. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,ball+joint,10070

I'm interested in a wiper motor to have as a spare if its the front, not the rear.

On vintage cars, which the Supra now is, you hear/read this sometimes becoming an issue and it can be something simple like a worn ignition barrel. Maybe someone can give some tips on hotwiring the fuel and ignition circuits that would pinpoint if that is your problem. I could tell you how to hotwire an MGB but I've never tried it on a Supra.

Just wear white cotton gloves and don't drop the hammer.

Could well be that, seeing they moved three cars out of the way to get to yours. Maybe that is why the insurers are awaiting the police investigation result or closure.