rider

SuperSpark was an Australian company that did a lot of development work with Holden way back before Holden was destined for closure by GM.

It's more a statement of economic fact. There are new people joining the forum regularly. I wouldn't have any problem in the slightest with people commenting on any sales threads I put up with legit comments like did you know you can still get the OE bit new for not a great deal more money. That helps the newbies and it'd also help me out as well if I wasn't actually aware of that fact. Helping any newbies take informed purchasing decisions is a big plus of any forum community.

Oh, and the OE coils come with 12 months manufacturers warranty.

Is that how they arrived, wrapped in bubble wrap? The new OE Denso packs are sealed, individually, in bags and boxed and to be brutal you can get those for not an other World amount more than you are asking.

I'd recommend you take time out to read through the insurance section on the forum as there are lots of threads about arranging agreed value insurance and also some suggesting where to pitch your price. Insurance is usually effortless with companies happy to take your money and the only differentiation tends to occur when you actually find you need to use it. So it comes down to what do you want, top cover with a top insurer or cheaper cover with an insurer that doesn't have the best customer service. Then you need to decide on value if you want to go down the agreed value route, the higher you go the more insurers you exclude as they all have ceiling values. Also, the higher the value you set the higher the premium you pay. All in all, the multitude of permutations of good insurer to not so good, high valuation to not so high can give you are very wide spread on quotes. Then you have insurers who insist on third party valuation reports but perversely won't tell you where to go for a third party valuation but they reserve the right to reject a third party valuation that they don't recognise. Try getting your head around that one, that is what Adrian Flux asked of me after I had arranged and paid for the insurance a month in advance. Others are happy to go with pictures and a write up from you telling them how well its been looked after. Insurance is a pain, so by reading up on the forum posts you can help yourself to avoid a lot of the pain.

I bought a TDV8 2008 over 3 years ago at 141k miles with no service history unseen from an eBay auction. I always expected it to break down so I had two dailies, the RR and a Mercedes 220cdi. That way, I was covered for when the RR broke down. Only it never did. So I got rid of the Merc a couple of months ago and now the 152k mile RR is my only daily driver. I like to think the reason it hasn't broken down is the preventative steps I took, nothing special I do it with every car I buy irrespective of what the paperwork says. I changed all the oils, everything - 2 difs, transfer box, gearbox and engine. I changed all filters. I changed all brake discs, pads and rear callipers. The German ZF gearbox in the RR is the known weak link, so as part of the oil change I also did the filter and while there changed all the solenoids and the mechatronic seals. I reset everything so the gearbox would do its adaptive learning from my driving style. Finally, I changed all the budget tyres (who fits budget tyres to a RR?) with Pirelli all season tyres, not cheap £160 a corner. So, all in I threw over £1,500 at the car in oil and bits and its not missed a beat. Things to look out for on a L322 Range Rover is the gearbox, does it change quickly, quietly and smoothly? The engine is fine except it needs to come out if you want to do much to it. Oil changes are a faff as there are two drain bolts on the big diesel. The air filter screws lose their heads and getting replacements is expensive not to mention it makes getting to the cleaner element difficult. The tailgate rusts on the lower lip. The electronic entertainment, Bluetooth, sat nav and radio/tv units are all located on the rear nearside behind a drop down inspection panel. Its all expensive gear and they are prone to get wet from water leaking in through the side window. Damp units are a potentially very expensive replacement cost to sort so always check they have the later RR bodge of a plastic sheet wall behind the units and that they are dry. The air compressors die every 10 years or so, just wear out. So always worthwhile checking when this was last replaced. The EGR valves are a timebomb waiting to fail. They last about 100k miles then give up and this can then lead to all sorts of engine issues so again check when these were last replaced. The air suspension units do die from old age and in the old days people would just replace them with springs and gas struts. I don't know why because reconditioned or even new units aren't that expensive. The things I love about the RR. Its so comfortable its like riding around in your favourite armchair while supping your favourite hot drink in you living room. The sound system is good and even the diesel cars are quiet. Its fast enough with almost 300bhp on the TDV8 3.6 that I have. I really like that it tells you when it needs a service, my car hasn't been serviced for 20 months and its still happy running along probably because it's only done 4,000 miles since I last serviced it. The things I don't like about the RR are the high road tax which is why I can't wait to replace it with the later SDV8 L405 sometime. Its not very economical either, does around 22mpg tootling around and 29mpg on a run. Another reason why I'm impatient to replace it with the later, more economical SDV8. When I decided to only have one daily driver, looking at the Merc or the RR to go, it wasn't even a contest.

Wasn't it Bendy whoever said he was looking at loads of sub £10k intact Supras on a daily basis, until his thread somehow disappeared. Something doesn't quite stack up with this wreck of a shell being upbid to £6k by a zero feedback buyer and the claim there are oodles of sub £10k Supras out there. What do I care, If i wanted a shell I'd go to Barmouth for the day.

Got to be worth £125 to the scrap man and £500 for the doors and lights. That perspex glass doesn't fetch much.

I used to use the handbrake to slow down on motorways when the bill were racing up behind until I realised there was only a thin covering on those shoes. Then I kept to 70mph.

Or 6 minutes if you wind the adjuster the wrong way

There is a Jspec Turbo Auto from a deceased estate on sale at Brightwells ending in 2 days. Currently at £24k + 12% buyers premium + VAT on the buyers premium.

Its good to see some of the arms are still available. I thought all the top arms had gone apart from a Moog very cheap effort. Seeing all those bolts reminds me of many happy minutes trying to peel those p/n stickers off. Soaking didn't seem to help. Took forever one tiny tear at a time. Hours of fun ahead for you.

Every 11 year old has a ramp to play with . They deserve a Supra to.

Its a Zunsport front and two sides grille. You can get them in black or chrome finish. Anyone buying these grilles should trawl for discount codes as they usually have 25% off listed somewhere.

I have a Supra and a Mustang, both old cars now but the Mustang wins in the age race being a 1965 fastback old banger. If you are thinking of getting a full respray and blue is your thing then a forum member did his Lexus blue which is darker then the Toyota Supra blue and looks good. You will want to get new seals for the front and rear screens and Extreme sells those. While you are at it you might want to think about fitting new seals to the other parts, doors and tailgate while you can still get those. They aren't cheap but with anything Supra there is one certainty and that is they will only get more expensive with time and one day they will be discontinued and will then get really expensive. Jake is the owner of the Lexus blue car in the NEC classic car show pic attached, I'm sure he can give you the paint code if you want it. Enjoy the stable of cars.

If you are changing out the door glass don't throw your old glass out as they are discontinued and removing scratches is an easy fix. A lot easier than trying to find the windows for a Supra. There are plenty of videos online on how to sort deep scratches, the main thing is to keep the glass temperature below 60C when working out scratches is to avoid the risk of thermal expansion stress and fracture. I worked on one of my cars rear screen and its not a ball ache. I bought all the materials needed off eBay from pads to cerium oxide powder.

If you are ditching a TT airbox to accommodate the plumbing then you would go a long way to recouping your costs. Bags first dibs.

There is a company in the USA listing the part as available. Probably best confirming that is the case as they tend to be resellers more than stockists. [email protected]

This is where a 3D scanner and printer is going to increasingly come in handy. If you can gain access to a used one then there are companies that offer that service online that may well not be aware of Supra inflation.

It might be worthwhile doing a relative comparison when deciding what to do, a new intercooler from Toyota is around £1,400.

For the matter of waiting 8 weeks you may as well go for a SMIC rather than go to the effort of fitting a frontal unit. My very original intercooler fins were all corroded to powder after 15 years and I really did notice quite a difference in pickup with the replacement intercooler. How much of that improvement was down to better air flow and how much was down to not cooling through aluminium oxide fins I wouldn't know. It was one of those purchases you can class as a good investment with the added bonus that it is a straight swap.

Head to a breaker for those and you'd need to state green or blue tint. They come up on eBay occasionally for nasty money. Blue tint ones are listed at the moment for not obscene money.

JZA80 Differential Info!

There is some information online suggesting that the differential ratios vary for the Supra diff depending on the market they were destined to serve. So the European spec is apparently close to the ratio you are after. Why not confirm that and then buy a Euro spec ring and gear set or look for the entire unit and recoup most of the cost by then selling your own? I took one of my cars from 3.0 to 3.55 and I'm OK with it but not ecstatic. Its faster from standing for sure but I have knocked almost 20% off the top speed and those extra 20% revs at any speed can get a bit intrusive noise wise and obviously needing to work up through the gears faster than you would have on a standard diff. I only do town or A road driving in that car so fast road setup is fine, its a noisy beast on faster duel carriageway cruising though.