rider

Anyone actually using the site would have my vote.

Since i spent over 100 of my own hours on my Supra underside beautification i find i wince at every puddle or dollop of horse stuff in the road. it's quite debilitating.

Anyone buying from Amayama needs to be aware of their terms and conditions which effectively means nothing is warranted and in the burning hoops scenario that they are , defective parts need to be returned at the buyers expense. A precis of their terms is that only parts fitted or handled by a main dealer are covered. Also defective parts must be returned accompanied by a letter from an authorised technician or service manager from the main dealer outlining what the problem is. Good luck with that, which is why I'd never buy anything other than stamped metal, bolts and washers from Amayama.

This thread might point you in a worthwhile direction to investigate: https://www.mkivsupra.net/topic/226699-red-triangle-light-problem/

That light can light up for a myriad of reasons. You have ruled out the main one so it may be prudent to go and check to see if there are any error codes stored by the ECU somehow. There must be a way to do that.

A drum I've been bashing away at for years including sounding it to super mods to absolutely no avail. Hopefully with a mod pushing it then its something that can be at least evaluated seriously. It has to be a win win for the forum and whoever the forum has as the official insurer of choice if anyone can be bothered to get it set up and running as a members only service or even a premium paid for service if regional assessors are appointed to actually appraise the cars in person rather than just doing a photo or in some cases, with the enhanced pictures people like, a photoshop plus paper exercise.

Sm current email address is [email protected]

I emailed him and received an auto responder saying he was on holiday so I think he is around, just that he is ignoring you.

The dash panels look all bashed and gashed. The gear selector looks well handled. It looks like another one of those many low mileage Japanese import. No service history, no MOT history, been sat for years. If this goes for anywhere near £30k I need to go talk to my insurer.

Another auction car, this time a jspec TT auto at Brightwells May 8th with a £25-30k estimate. I recon there is a hole hidden behind the union flag.

It is likely to be a vac leak, in addition to checking all the hoses its worth checking the really old by now brake booster check valve. They can cause air leaks into the manifold that'll lead to idle problems. Things like that you may as well just change if its the original anyway.

If you ship by pallet or half pallet then you have the likes of Palletline, Palletforce and Freightroute. Last time I used those it was £40+VAT a pallet UK collection and delivery except North Kilt land. You had to pay more if you spec in a tail lift either end if you cannot get the pallet up onto a flatbed yourself or have it offloaded onto forks. Those carriers tend to just ask for weight estimates and usually spec in a maximum, 500kg I think it was. You do have to have things secured with rope or straps.

Fast approaching 23 years, I was a boy when I bought it for £20,000. Fortunately, a boy with a lot of money.

If you have a part number search for it on google and then if retailers stock it the part is available and if they say out of stock, awaiting fresh supplies it could be discontinued and if they say its a discontinued part it is pretty safe to assume its a discontinued part. US retailers, particularly official Toyota parts distributors do keep pretty much on top of this so look out for the US retail official Toyota parts dealers and head there.

One thing to potentially watch out for with a freshly machined arm, which presumably is alloy steel will be any chemical reaction between the thread and the ball joint body metal that could lead to corrosion of the thread. There probably are surfactants out there that can be applied to stabilise the thread with an inert coating or maybe even an epoxy thread lock gel/cement would do it. That last option would make it harder to change out the ball joint for a second time but how many of these cars are still running 10,000 miles a year? Alternatively, there are anaerobic gasket sealants like Permatex 51813 that may be worthwhile considering to apply onto the threaded joint which won't hamper any future disassembly.

Did you machine a thread into the arm or use a threaded ball joint adapter? The threaded adapters and threaded Mopar ball joints seem to be a popular mod in US racing circles and I could imagine that'd work with the Supra arms if there is an adapter that fits or can be machined to fit. Whichever way, it should offer hope where there was none before. I love engineering solutions to overcome an everyday problem.

Since you posted this, almost a day ago, there has been twice as many posts about cryptomania than a car called a Supra.

Don't bother with Hagerty, they only do stock or what you can convince them is stock, really, honestly. I recall that Lancaster are OK with mods and they email you an agreed value certificate too that you can stick on your garage wall.

Certainly is but always worth checking there is stock before ordering otherwise there could be a cancellation with then a couple of currency exchange hits from PayPal or a credit card company.

You never quite know with these bulkier items if the retailer actually stocks these or they are ship direct from the manufacturer. When I bought half a dozen from another retailer in 2017 they all shipped from Denso.

I believe Keron mentioned they are coming back online from Denso in May so you might want to pin your hopes onto him to bring some in. I'm not quite so sure as more and more sites are no longer just saying out of stock awaiting fresh order, timing unknown and instead saying discontinued. Not long to wait and see though so you might want to wait a while.

The Eastwood spray is the restorers go to product.

A big bang and loss of power would have me looking at the turbo impellers to check one hasn't hit the housing.

That looks really good. If you ever find it does begin to move then a possible sticky solution could be an #2 non hardening gasket.

These have only recently become discontinued so you might find some still in the supply chain if you cannot get any joy here, but best hurry.