rider

How many people with a £40k pay-out will think I need to go straight out and find that replacement Supra? We saw from the how long have you owner your car survey that most respondents have had their cars a very long time. I'd think that very few of those would look to replace their stolen, cannibalised or crushed Supra with another Supra. If you have lived with a car for decades nothing would ever feel the same. You'd be much more likely to treat the wife to a conservatory.

It was US info so it could just be the aero knowing the yanks love the targa top and have little regard for anything they aren't interested in.

I read it on a couple of web pages so its only as accurate as the individuals who wrote the web page using actual data or a copied figure. The actual figure quoted was 352 units produced over two years of production, 93 & 94.

Seeing only 350 were ever made there are probably only 200 left in the World today. and I wrote this in December 2019 on my last valuation threads responding to a specific GZ question: "Personally, if it were my with a car in top condition, numbers matching, stock then I'd be seeking to insure an auto TT at £30k knowing that in any total loss its probably the car that would be near impossible to replace. If it were the factory 6sp Aero TT then £40-45k knowing that in a total loss it is the car that would be impossible to replace and that the aero will always be a popular and rare choice in foreign markets, probably more so than here in the UK. " and prices have risen by 30% since then I'd be looking at £39k insured value for a GZ Auto in tip top condition. PS - You have every right to revisit you valuation mid-term in a policy and it is particularly required for Surpa owners as most of that 30% inflation in the last 18 months has occurred in the last 6 to 9 months. Price rises were running at 30% in 2017 and 18 but took a breather for 6 months in 2019 before bolting off again. When you have such hyper inflation you do need to constantly reassess if your insured value is suitable and also you have to start considering if you need to hedge in a bit of surplus to give you a few months off from fretting over the price rises relative to your agreed insurance value.

If it were my predicament I'd seriously consider selling the rolling shell as they are fetching good money these days and people can drop any motor and transmission they want into a shell which gives it a wide market base to appeal to. It would solve your problem of finding all the bits to get a complete car back together, which would be a nightmare of epic proportions. With cash in hand you can decide whether you want to go the Supra route or give it up as a bad episode, it'd be cheaper to buy a whole one than try to get this stripped shell back together without access to the original missing parts.

The bullitt Mustang sold for nearly $5mn recently so plenty of room left.

I mostly see these at Canadian breakers who are scrapping JDM imports for the ooowwwwww so expensive parts. Good news is there isn't much demand for RHD dashes in North America so they tend to be offered for a few hundred Canadian. Place a search with notification on the Canadian and USA eBay sites and one will happen along sometime.

The seats have been recovered but I was referring to the bolsters that usually get squashed/crushed on the exit side of the drivers seat and these look to be very nicely shaped, plump and firm.

The seat bolsters look to be in really great condition for the mileage. you see some (actually most) 60k mile Supras with much more wear on the seats. I maintain a healthy scepticism for these great many 60k mile Supras around which makes a genuine car all the more impressive. Beware traders in disguise.

I actually think the pre-facelift wheels look better than the facelift ones but I'd expect the reason behind the price differential in favour of pre-facelift wheels is that 80% of the A80 Supra production was pre-facelift making the demand naturally 4 times higher for those seeking the stock look.

One day you'll be able to write, they aren't laughing now. Price is always what someone is prepared to pay and what the other person is prepared to take. If you aren't fussed about selling to someone who really wants those wheels they are £1,000 all day long. If you are desperate to sell to someone who isn't fussed about buying they are £350 wheels.

The pre-facelift wheels are worth a lot more than the facelift wheels. In a non stock colour it'd need someone to want that colour to not detract from the price. In the USA people are now asking up to $2k for pre-facelift OEM wheels. Here you wouldn't want to part for less than £1k as they will add up to £2k to a stock cars value over an otherwise stock car on non stock wheels. Also reflected in the prices is the knowledge that once parted you'll find it very hard to be reunited.

For small repairs there is the silver electrical paint that is a common fix to heated screen broken filaments. You used to be able to buy it in brush top glass bottles but seems to come in syringe form these days. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Conductive-Silver-Paint-Varnish-Electrically/dp/B00PSKQZ60

I really wouldn't recommend fitting a 25 year old replacement out of choice. The swash plate style of compressor is highly loaded with ball sockets on the piston rods that could have seen a lot of duty over 25 years. The OE Denso compressors are still available and last time I looked were around the US$250 mark which means you could land a new one from a US supplier for probably for around £300 if the more local Toyota UK or TCB couldn't get near to that kind of price.

I just had my first ever brake pipe failure in over 40 years of driving around, on my 13 year old Range Rover. Rather than buy and fit a new front to rear cars length of pipe I patched in a repair section. Did the job. You never know when these things will fail, my Supra is still on the original front to rear pipes for brakes and fuel.

I'm sure they will be many on here who have contact info for him as he was part of the furniture, part of the clique. If one of those can do the right thing an pass on the details people are fairly easy to track down from electoral roll data and a bit of detective work. Then you can sue the bastard. If you want any tips on how to sue and what ways to maximise your chances of securing a good payment for maximum pain delivered PM me. I've sued lots of bastards over the years and never failed to recover what was owed and had fun on the way with bailiffs, freezing bank accounts and sending into bankruptcy. I'm a proper evil bastard myself when people owe me.

These are only £300 or so new. A bargain in Supra World.

Yet another video that has been around a while but I find I've watched a few times. It doesn't seem to get old. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHSvVIkxPB4&ab_channel=MotiveVideo

I setup my rear frame before it went back onto the car which is the easy way of doing it. I used a hydraulic table to lift the hubs until the lower arm was level and then tightened the bolt. That was plenty good enough to get it to drive safely to the alignment shop, though the technician did notice a different power down across the rear wheels on his pre-set test drive, that I hadn't actually noticed but different toe angles were confirmed when the initial on ramp reading were taken. Its probably more important who you select to do the chassis tune up rather than the initial refit settings. I did an overnight to center gravity and they were good, they will even body shim your struts if they find the ride height at the four corners aren't within spec. That sounded quite drastic but my supra didn't need any height adjustment.

You can do some preliminary checks yourself on the a/c system with diagnostics which are included in a link off the link Scotter has thrown out there. I did a long how to on a/c testing and how to get back up and running years ago to someone else's questions on an old redundant system so if you do a trawl of old threads you may be able to find it. Your starting point would require that you buy or gain access to a set of R134a pressure gauges with couplings off eBay. If you don't want to buy things in to test your system integrity then you probably need to add in where you live so some very kind person living nearby with a/c pressure gauges and gas can help you out.

Sometime people just want to drive a particular car. I had the Supra valet parked at the Reading Hilton and the valet was drooling over the car so I said take it for a spin if you are insured and I'll deny any knowledge if you have an incident. I was a bit surprised that it turned out to be a 26 mile spin to the multi-story over the road but anything to help out, so long as people ask first and they are given permission I never minded others driving my cars. That was when the Supra was only a few years old and I wouldn't do it these days with the Supra seeing replacement parts are often no longer available.

If they like driving around in your MR2 i wouldn't suggest you have the Supra MOT done there, that might take a week or so to complete. There is no reason for a MOT test drive, none at all. The only possible reason would be if your wife said something to them like there is a worrying rattle or the brakes don't seem quite right or I'm concerned the clutch is slipping. Beyond that it's just a joy ride.

From the manual - "Low Oil Level Warning Light (without waves underneath) This light warns that the engine oil pressure is too low. If it flickers or stays on while you are driving, pull off the road to a safe place and stop the engine immediately. Call a Toyota dealer or qualified repair shop for assistance. The light may occasionally flicker when the engine is idling or it may come on briefly after a hard stop. There is no cause for concern if it then goes out when the engine is accelerated slightly. The light may come on when the oil level is extremely low. It is not designed to indicate low oil level, and the oil level must be checked using the level dipstick. NOTICE Do not drive the vehicle with the warning light on—even for one block. It may ruin the engine." A failing oil pressure sender is always the first thing to hope for and to change. Location front left side of engine block 83530-30090.

Nothing better than a happy speculator. Just to give some support to my comments, the last time I interjected in this thread was December 2017 to suggest or warn there was a serious correction about to happen because the investment patterns occurring at that time were obviously unsustainable. Lets sit back and see if the effective banning of BTC does occur, i cannot see that a currency that consumes more electricity than 5mn people in Ireland is going to be allowed to continue. Your $200k Bitcoin would probably encourage mining electricity consumption worthy of 100mn people. How monumentally stupid would that be?

It has been retrimmed for sure, its quite a bit thicker than the stock wheel. I refurbished a unloved leather wheel last year and you can see for the picture that there is quite a big difference. You see the 3 spoke wheels of the composite variety be offered for around £300 these days and the leather ones for up to £1k. The composite ones are still available new, the leather ones are discontinued. New, the horn boss cost almost as much as a new composite wheel, several hundred £. Your wheel is a really hard one to put a value on seeing its a long way off stock with the added embroidered horn boss feature to. I'd hope that someone with a racing wheel would look at this as an upgrade if they are looking to revert to stock but it'd need to be quite a bit cheaper than a good stock wheel otherwise why wouldn't a buyer just go for a good stock wheel? If it were my wheel I'd punt it for £300 and see if there is any interest over as long as I could wait, just leave it sat on auto ad renewal on eBay and chances are a buyer will happen by sometime.