rider
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There are a ton of pics posted on FB.
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Engine Specifications: Standard, with original air box. Turbocharger & Induction: Stock twin turbo Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Standard Exhaust: 3.75" HKS Drivetrain: 6 Speed manual Weight Reduction & Transfer: N/A Suspension, Wheels, Tires & Brakes: BBS RZ standard brakes 17" OEM wheels stored Interior & ICE: Leather front, UK MP3/hands free set upgrade Exterior: Standard with UK spec bonnet scoop (cosmetic) and aerofoil added Performance: Max power - 330bhp @ rear hubs Max torque - ??? lb/ft Max speed - 157 mph (gauge reading at the limiter cut off - as run on the Autobahn 2001) 0-60 - ?.? seconds Ownership history Imported in 1998 and I became the UK second owner, also in 1998. Nothing has changed or been modded since then, the car still looks the same today; over 20 years later. Same wheels to same paint. Its proved bullet proof with only one non service item failing, a holed a/c condenser in 2003. Even the original clutch lasted 106,000 miles before being replaced, with another OEM clutch. Full service history car with a cam belt change every 6 years even if only a few thousand miles have been run since the last change. There is a full set of MOT certificates as I've put the car through every MOT test, since the first fell due in 1999. It was the only car, daily driver in the early years of ownership doing 12k miles a year but has since 2003 it has been a second car to then go on to become a car amongst many so that the annual mileage from 2015 is only a few hundred per year. The car underwent a comprehensive underneath refurbishment in 2017 with a galvanized rear sub frame and all new OE bushes, bolts and arms fitted while they could still be purchased from Toyota. Rear wheel bearings were also changed as well as roll bars, links etc. The underside was rust treated whilst the rear frame was off the car and painted with POR 15. Then, in Spring 2019 a complete change of the front suspension arms, bushes, links and roll bar completed the underside overhaul. The dust shields, 4 new Toyota Bilstein shocks and front wheel bearings were replaced in 2016 so the car has been restored to drive as a new car would. After all the new suspension components were fitted, the car was treated to a full chassis tune by Centre Gravity. The cost of the underside refresh ran to £15k with me providing over 100 hours of my own labour at no cost. As part of the ongoing renewal process, the car the coil connectors and coil packs were all renewed in 2021 using the OE Denso coils. Not very often on show these days, usually garaged, It did get out to make a very rare public appearance on the club stand at NEC classic car show in 2016.
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From the album: Stock(ish) 1996 TT6
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From the album: Stock(ish) 1996 TT6
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My Supra has a Scorpion transponder immobiliser fitted. they never came as standard equipment. Without keys you are going to need to change the locks and asking someone like Keron would be a good place to start. After the keys + locks you have the remote fobs c/l issue with JDM cars in that Denso factory paired key fobs for the JDM market with the c/l module so you'd best ask for that at the same time as you are looking for a set of scrapper locks and keys. Other Supra markets were treated to a behind the steering wheel programmable c/l module. PS = For £40 key cost you mention I assume that's a remote fob key, you can buy the blank keys (no fob) much cheaper than that from Toyota.
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The turbos for the Supra seem to be a confused discussion area of CT12's or CT20's or were the 20's just on Aristo's. I have a spare set of turbos that I haven't got around to either selling on or having reconditioned ready for when the ones on my car die, but I probably should. Turbo rebuilds haven't been discussed on this site for years. That must mean that your turbo's either failed after 15 years or so or they go on forever? Probably unlikely but my originals have done 25 years, spooled over 110,000 miles aided by a Blitz throat clearing dump valve and are working well. So maybe they will go on forever with their regular oil change service history over 25 years and now, due to limited road use, the oil gets changed every 500 miles or so. With my spare set sat in the garage, how can I tell if they are Supra Turbos and I haven't been passed off with a set of Aristo blowers instead? I have read that the Aristo turbos are larger, truck type, turbo's than those that were fitted to the Supra which are a smaller faster spooling design. I don't want to get my spare set rebuilt and then if I do come to have to use them, find that they aren't actually Supra turbos. Who do people go to these days for rebuild work. I had Doug Sport of Stourbridge recommended to me by fuzzly (of Car SOS and drum banging fame) but it seems most here over the years have used CR Turbos? How many of us are still running with the original turbos on 100k+ miles hoping they last forever?
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If the evaporator came from MVP they may have their vehicle listing wrong saying its a 93 - 02 option. I've found a Four Seasons option (that is half the price of Denso) under p/n 1033691589 but the listing for that says 95 on which ties in with the part change date. Seeing MW's car is a later car maybe the Denso 476-0059 is specific to the 93/4 car years? Chris Wilson might be the one to know as I believe he was looking into making evaporators at one point. PS - Having looked at pictures of the 4 Seasons option the inlet/outlet pipes are in the middle of the core. So the same as the left picture which which looks like it could be the new Denso part, so physically the same setup.
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Looking at the parts catalogue there were two evaporators for 93-94 and 10/94 onwards with the same part numbers for jspec and USspec cars so that would suggest its an era difference. 88501-14250 (05/1993 - 09/1994) 88501-14251 (10/1994 - 06/1996)
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The £28 included the 3.5% duty, your invoice will show the VAT also taken. So the price you paid is delivered duty paid.
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Help to resurrect the dead, automotively speaking of course!!
rider replied to oxygene's topic in Supra Chat
£12k to strip the car and then disposed of some big bits for personal gain? Is that right? -
That is probably trader speak for its been driver 180,000km in the UK as its first MOT recorded 79,412km which were presumably Japan km's and it would have needed a MOT before receiving a UK registration.
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I cannot see why there would be a difference RHD to LHD seeing the engine ancillary configuration is the same. The US and Jspec part numbers are 88320-14600. There might be a change between pre and post facelift with the port configuration but I've always been lazy and just looked at 1993-1996 parts as that is the car I own. So if you have a 93-96 I'd guess you'll be fine.
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That is correct, to lock the diff
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I'd check that Denso recommendation as I have seen the 471-1205 sold as the one to buy. I think that comes with the clutch so maybe that is the difference? You can do the leg work researching it, I'm off to the pub in a few minutes. Here are a couple of links https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/denso,4711205,a/c+compressor,6628 https://www.mvpmotorsports.com/denso/denso-a/c-compressor/4711205/i-2245440.aspx I have a RA discount code for a 5% discount giving a delivered duty paid price of around £250 for a new compressor by the time your credit car applies a foreign transaction fee. Code is 178002326162134790
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If you grab the shaft with both hands and can rotate it with the road wheel of the ground then you know the shaft isn't stuck or glued to the diff and that will confirm its a clearance issue. If you find you cannot rotate the shaft with all the bolts out then you need to get banging it with a rubber or hide mallet. PS - make sure the car is in gear.
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If you have lowered the diff by removing the one rear hex nut on a NA (two on a TT) and lowering the two front bolts then I'd expect it to drop out. This on forum picture shows the size/depth of the grease caps you need to clear from the diff coupling. http://jza80.mkivsupra.net/monthly_2021_06/IMG_1274.JPEG.29055c0735dfa6a6e8bab4bce18fe9fb.JPEG PS - Did you did removed the large hub nut (30mm) from the end of the drive shaft?
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Help to resurrect the dead, automotively speaking of course!!
rider replied to oxygene's topic in Supra Chat
Theft is a usually treated as civil (that's what you have insurance for) matter, fraud is a serious criminal offence in law. It'd be worth talking to the police with an approach of I have been defrauded out of £15k and a lot of parts appear to have been stolen to boot. Police cannot ignore an accusation of fraud and £15k will be regarded as a significant sum of money to have defrauded. -
If you have removed all the bolts holding the shafts to the differential then they should drop off. There is no real reason why they wouldn't just drop off unless you still have one end splined into the hub then there probably isn't enough room to just drop off as they have a quite a pronounced domed grease cap behind the diff coupling.
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That is correct, the fuel will age better as well with limited headspace available for temperature fluctuation breathing bringing in fresh moisture that'll end up in the fuel.
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Here is a video on additive comparison for water in fuel. I think the Miller Genuine Draught would probably be the best, I used to drink that stuff when I lived in the US. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpvaJmVcf0k
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There will be more availability on additives you put in the tank containing corrosion inhibitor phosphates and ethanol stabilizers which will likely be alkanes or higher carbon alcohols. Phase separation and steel corrosion will be easy to address, aluminium and brass corrosion and rubber degradation somewhat harder. It's easy to run the fuel out on carburettor cars, so owners should just run the carbs dry before parking up and have a full tank of fuel with some ethanol fuel stabiliser additive to minimise tank breathing. With hoses we may well see similar to flexible A/C lines the wider introduction of plastic inner lined rubber tubing. Its not like the technologies aren't there, it'll just need sufficient market demand to make it happen. Or Andy Ven.
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Japanese Premium fuel was 95RON back in the 90's (96 today) with regular 89RON. All Japanese car engines were designed in the 90's to run on 89 or 95 RON, the higher grade in Europe equivalency is standard grade petrol. Japan has never had the 98 UK Premium or 100 old 5 Star RON fuels in its domestic market.
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Its enough to make you want to cry. It looks like E10 fuel stabalis(z)ers might be the answer for cars that get placed on SORN over winter months, the other recommendation with E10 is either to drain or completely fill your fuel tank if the vehicle is to be stored for any period. Also to drain the fuel bowls in carburettors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvS_D4_lF5U
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There have been reports and videos on in particular USA classic cars that use steel tanks, brake and fuel lines having corrosion issues with E10 fuels. Its also reported that you should 'expect' phase separation if the fuel is stored (in a tank) for more than 100 days with a water/ethanol phase sitting at the bottom of carb float champers or fuel tanks. So unless your car is used regularly and tank filled regularly E10 has issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKrdOMTaaTQ
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You can run into the small print black hole with that approach as insurers can have get out of jail clauses for cars that have been out of production for X number of years. Which, if you are an insurer is sensible as parts may no longer be available to repair the car following an accident and valuation becomes more subjective.
