rider

And a pretty massive heat shield.

There are no screws, its threaded rubber that turns into a large hole in the cross member. That makes it very simple to adjust them up and down by rotating them.

You could always pretty closely eyeball it from a Supra sales brochure.

I wasn't aware that 040 super white cars ever came with black emblems, I always thought it was either chrome or gold with two mounting prongs sited at the top and bottom of the bull head. Original emblems tallied to original bumpers would have the two holes drilled into the bumper for the OEM emblem. For the definitive on position someone with an original bumper could measure the mounting hole distances to various points on the bumper. The other thing is not many emblems retain the original Supra OE dimensions which lots of years ago on a NZ forum post was given as 80x62 mm. Most badges are a few to quite a few mm larger. At the end of the day though, does a mm here or there really matter?

I've had a bit of an exhaust kind of rumble come about at tick over and actually traced it down to the bonnet vibrating, it was killed by pressing on the front corners of the bonnet. So I've replace the rubber bump stops 90541-15004 that are era specific to many Toyota cars and still available from Toyota. The bump stops I removed are rock hard, whereas the replacement are so supple. You can twist them, bend them and squash them. What a difference fresh rubber makes, I'd recommend people get a pair while they can from Toyota if your car is still on its original bonnet front corner stops.

You are very unlikely to find one in the trade these days but there are a few members holding a spare so hopefully you'll find someone willing to part with their precious part. It probably comes down to what you are prepared to pay. Denso were knocking them out for £50 a unit a few years back and Toyota were reselling them for £650. if no one comes forward you could always float out an offer that people just couldn't refuse then I'm sure one could be prised out of someone's hands somewhere. Try FB with a wanted ad as well, more people buy/sell there these days than on the forum.

There are a couple of good condition leather 3 spokers for sale on eBay at the moment, one sitting in Japan and one in Australia. Both up for a pretty reasonable £600 delivered UK. There will be taxes on top. The leather wheel is a discontinued item and the non-airbag variety is a rare sight so I'm surprised there are a couple of good examples up on eBay. Last I checked, you could still buy the composite alternative new from Toyota. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185286315971 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275074065054

I looked at GPS trackers and the key question with these rechargeable units is how often do you have to recharge them if you cannot wire them into the cars ancillary electrics. It has got to be hard to remember or be bothered to pull a unit regularly just to give it a recharge. Prices must have gone up quite a bit as the rechargeable units I evaluated were more in the £80 range. Though those were the 2g SIM units that you ping yourself with a SMS rather than a unit with a PAYG track option. Then I looked instead at hard wired units but in the end figured if the car gets stolen do I really want to get it back? If I had gone on to fit one, out of preference it'd have been a hard wired 2g SIM unit and they start at around £20 and go North from there with you adding in a PAYG SIM card.

There is a 10% EBC discount code running until the end of the 14th. CUPID10. There are people that rubbish EBC pads, I use them on the Supra and can absolutely confirm that they do work. Good for rotors and other stuff to.

The car with the strange rear light combination is back at Brightwell Auction for a second go this month. https://www.brightwells.com/timed-sale/5237/lot/553473 With the hefty buyers premium plus VAT on top its an interestingly high price guide at £35k to £40k. A tad optimistic I feel. If it does make anywhere near the estimate I'm going to have to have a word with my insurer.

Rarer than hens teeth. You see more sets come up in the USA but these are advertised at US$1,500 to US$2,000 these days.

One aspect often overlooked is the diff mount at the rear of the sub frame. The rubber goes a bit squishy when its aged and can lead to transmission hop with power on/off. When I did my underside refurb the only parts that looked like they needed doing were the two bushes mounting the rear of the differential. They were very soft and pliable compared to the new OEM replacements. If you can rig a camera underneath then you can check to see if you have any diff rocking/hopping going on.

You could try disabling the IPv6 protocol and only using the IPv4 to see if that makes a difference. There are some particularly older PCs, games as well as some VPN's and waveband extenders that just don't do well on IPv6. Also, having the IP addresses addresses assigned by the PC using DHCP has lots of forum threads with people intermittently losing connection using IPv6. You could find moving to fixed IP address would solve the problem but that isn't easy tech to set up. So, I'd start by just disabling the IPv6 by unclicking the protocol in the list arrived at from right click - properties on the wifi connection. On my home networks I do IPv4 only over the two wifi networks that I have because it is stable.

Download the freeware version of Advanced Systemcare and scan your PC. The fixes include optimising the internet settings to fix issues and conflicts. I'd recommend uninstalling afterwards as it has some power hungry monitors that will eat into your PC memory unless you are savvy enough to disable the process start ups through your task manager.

You'd be best sending a PM to Tyson. Then he should receive an email notification and will doubtless be able to help out.

My 22k mile 1996 TT that I bought in 1998 had Bridgestone's on it that I changed soon after I bought the car because they were a bit low on tread.

Always been good with the parts I've ordered. As the saying goes though, you never find out how good a company is until something goes wrong. I wouldn't use ECP for anything exotic though where they likely have a generic product that supposedly fits all. Its always been brake discs or the like for me where nothing much can go wrong. Having wrong parts incur labour is a problem I have had with companies that I do use for exotic parts. TCB sent me a NA bit for my TT and I had a £100 labour charge as the garage spent a lot of time trying to fit a part that was a tiny bit too small and just didn't quite fit. TCB replaced the part FOC after conceding it was their error but that's as far as they were prepared to go. So, suck it up is an industry standard..

Aside from the archive of information available within forum entries there are an awful lot of long term owners on here who have happily grown old with their cars and many would be open to you visiting them to look over a car and have the typical problem areas highlighted for you to look out for. So if you put out where you live someone may come forward and offer to show you over their car(s). Some are greedy and have more than one Supra. On the bodywork there are places known to be weak point. Every Supra tailgate rusts at the bottom corner of the glass, caught early its not a big deal. Later on its a gully reconstruction job. Also, break that rear glass and where are you going to get a replacement from? Where there are lots of plastic stick on bits and some people add even more in the guise of body kits then they can hide rust on the sills and the rear quarters. The rear wheel wells can rust to. Pretty much all panels are now discontinued so almost any rust patching is going to require a recycled part or fabrication and welding. Underneath the cars rust more at the rear than the front. You can see what condition the fuel/brake lines are in and the rear sub frame. The rear tank guard tends to rust from the inside out as fine soil can collect inside the tank cover. Its worth taking off the rear number plate to look at the state of the rear crash bar, they buckle in an accident but also can rust badly. Its not uncommon, in fact its usual to see the inner sill channel crushed on a Supra due to incorrect jacking. It has got to the stage, due to the age of these cars, that it is best to do a underneath ramp inspection before committing to buy. Other minor things dissolve away to rust, the front brake dust shields can all but disappear. Bodge replacement fit new shields with a slot cut to fit, avoiding the need to remove the hub to fit correctly. The rear hub brake shields also rust. These are of thicker metal compared to the front so are more durable but they are a discontinued item so cannot be replaced with new any longer. Be suspicious of any car that has any warning lights out. It has been known to remove the ABS light to hide sensor or pump issues. All lights should illuminate on power on. Look at the coolant condition. Left unattended for years (Toyota recommends changing every two years) then it will go brown with rust. Replacing a leaking heater matrix on these cars is a mammoth job. The real issue with these cars now is that almost all non service parts are hard to find or impossible to find. So what you buy is likely to be what you have for keeps unless you do replace things with a lot of not factory like components. Other than that its a bullet proof car. I haven't needed to ever replace a blown light bulb in coming up for 24 year of ownership. But do try to hook up with someone local to give you a warts and all tour of their own car.

I did add the off site buyers guide link to the forum article buyers guide that is over 10 years old as a more up to date offering, but its got itself deleted so here it is again. https://garagedreams.net/buyers-guide/buying-a-toyota-supra-mk4

I personally wouldn't spend £50k on any car without doing thorough research, I'm looking at possibly buying a Austin Healey 3000 and before ditching £60k I'm doing all the due diligence as you have RHD converted LHD cars or replicas made in South Africa to look out for. Its a potential minefield buying classic cars. Having said that, I'm sure it'd be possible to buy a NA Auto Supra for £15k somewhere and slap in an Aristo engine and BMW box and convince someone its a real deal bargain £50k TT6. On any sold as seen older car its condition and verifiable history that counts and not many Supras come with both which is one reason why the trade and auctions are the price setting drivers in Supra World as that route offers the buyer some security of purchase with a legal requirement to be as described and fit for purpose. If you are new to Supra World you would do worse than talk to honest traders and there are plenty of thread again where the good ones and the not so good ones are discussed. The good thing about this forum is there is all the knowledge on Supras you could ever want or need accessible via the search button. I recently posted up an off site link to a very good buyers guide which is a good place to start for any new buyer.

It would be more cost effective to buy an already singled Supra than buy a stock unit to modify. The days when modifications enhanced the value of a Mk4 Supra are quite a few years behind us now. Your question asking will values continue to rise, well that is unlikely to carry on indefinitely. Some see the plateau in prices happening in a very few years time. Other think the bull market will carry on for a while yet. But, the bull market has been in stock cars for the last in particular 5 years and as they become more scarce, with ones being written off or modified then that will help eke out the bull run a bit longer. If you have £40k to spend on a TT Auto and presumably around £10k on mods your may as well go for a BPU TT6 if you are in anyway looking at a purchase as an investment. The power won't be much different to what you are seeking and its going to be a much more secure investment over the medium terms. Supra inflation is running at 30% presently and prices have doubled in the last 4 years with plenty more left to give seeing the UK is now the cheapest market in the World for these cars. Most sane people would now go for a BMW M3 6 speed Getrag box instead of seeking out a V160/V161. These are readily available and about a sixth of the price. As I mentioned though, modding away from the VIN plate is and has never been a wise investment in classic car future proofing and value enhancement outside of a few safety upgrades like with brake mods. As a caveat, I have always been in favour of stock as a durable setup and there have been many very heated debates on this forum over the years on the subject of stock versus mods. Go check some of those out from around 10 years ago and you'll probably garner from those that it can be a contentious subject. Less so these days as everyone, even die hard modders, can see stock prices have not only closed the gap on modded cars but they are now pretty much pulling away. There was a time at low price point Supra around 15 years ago when a modded single turbo car would be worth up to three times the value a stock car, no longer.

I think, with most Supras are now in long term ownership so most everyone is aware that once sold, its almost certainly a one way ticket out of Supra Mk1v ownership. This reasonable price idea is a open ended concept, one persons reasonable is another's insult. Probably why its always better to put up a ceiling price just to pitch it as a serious punt or just wishful thinking. UK Mkiv prices are pretty much the cheapest in the World so if the deal isn't here chances are that it isn't anywhere.

The next update will be the actual silver spraying of the wheels using the fine 1.2mm gravity spray gun. The primer and paint are both 1K paints. 1K paints remain live unlike 2K paints, so they can always be solvent reactivated. You do need to take care spraying 1K paint on top of 1K primer to ensure the paint doesn't dissolve and mix with the primer. It is important to apply a very fine first coat, effectively a tack coating. This will seal the primer from the additional coats of paint with the second being a thicker layer and the final third coat thicker again. I use high end pressure, a lot of guns will say to use around 35psi but I prefer to go for higher 50psi gun pressure. For the small guns you can maintain that pressure from a small 25l air tank and around 8cfm displacement compressor, I have a 100l with a much higher cfm than the minimum required. Can spraying is easy but I actually prefer doing gun spraying on top coat layers. Even though with the wheels I will be using spray cans for the lacquer. I'd prefer to gun pray the lacquer if it was bodywork. This is the absolute best video I came across way back when I started gun spraying paints. The no nonsense attitude of the guy just appealed to me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHmMaPnH5Ow&ab_channel=D.I.Y.AUTOSCHOOL

If you are just looking to warm specific rooms rather than the entire house then you could do worse than a normal 3Kw electric heater plugged into a thermostatic plug. I use that for my office to maintain a minimum temperature of 15C and then when I'm resident I can either light a fire in the stove or up the thermostat until I leave.

I cannot understand this covid mass hysteria at all. I can go to the dentist and have them gaze into and then finger around in my mouth but I cannot walk around a supermarket without a mask. I was told masks don't make a difference and there is information that masks harbour germs and are more likely to harm the wearer. It was going to be two jabs and its freedom for all, now it a booster here and another in six months and then one every few months for life as each virus mutation comes along. I was told the jabs were safe but we see people having heart attacks at football grounds weekly, two rushed off during EPL games last night. You have to be fully vaxxed to attend football games. In Scotland its been reported that foetal deaths have spiked to vaccinated young mothers. I was told the young aren't affected but infants must soon be jabbed and all without their parents consent. I saw a news item that the Austrian Government is giving 30 minutes with a prostitute as a get vaccinated perk, really! I was told it was voluntary but now its heading towards mandatory vaccination, even with sexual favours, for a virus that killed mainly the over 75's. I was told by my GP it was perfectly normal to have blood coming out of almost every passageway and orifice after a jab, even though that had never happened before. Billions of people subjecting themselves to a vaccine that has no long term clinical trials beyond the billions vaccinated, what possibly could go wrong? I've been told lots of things about covid and the civic duty to be vaccinated. Well fuk that, its personal choice in a free Country; mandated in a totalitarian one.