rider

How was anything shot down? You either talk, discuss and evaluate or you piss around in your own little world. As far as I am aware my two interjections in this thread have been just before a fall, to say it looks like trouble ahead. Two out of two isn't that bad, lets see how Bitcoin gets the squeeze and Thunberg'd for my pitch at three in a row. How long do you think Bitcoin has before it get Thunberg'd? Beating Ireland is old news, apparently with a 5 fold increase in power consumption in the last two years its now beating Thailand. You cannot really compare National crypto backed by a lender of last resort with non aligned International crypto. Nations will seek to muscle in and overtake the unregulated offerings in favour of regulated and taxed offerings. If you read around the subject the National plan is clear. Tie a crypto to the fiat and then enable it to be a normal spendable asset. In other words taxed, tracked and controlled.

You need to ask the one World forum for an insight into that. It likely depends on how much governments seek to regulate or ban the use of unregulated crypto with their regulated banks and retailers. With Bitcoin now consuming more electricity than Ireland it is going to have a big fall one day.

You can ask Toyota for a new set, About £600 a set.

All sales + 15% buyers premium. https://www.paineauctioneers.com/servlet/Search.do?auctionId=5194

That is why no one with a classic car should trouble themselves with AF. So you receive a quote that may be £20 cheaper than a useful insurer and then get low balled on the value, given only a few weeks grace and told to find your own valuer. A valuer and valuation that they may or may not give you the valuation that you 'desire' and AF may then be prepared or not to accept. You'll of course spend £100 to £250 on the valuation report that may be so much wasted money and paper, all to try and save £20. There are so many better, classic friendly insurers out there. Get your barge pole out and shove AF into the long grass.

Out of the factory there was a 10mm difference with the optional Toyota Billstein setup 10mm lower than the standard setup. I found that out when I had my chassis tune up. That was 10mm on each corner so no raking going on which would likely affect (worsen) your handling and fuel consumption over the factory setup.

If people are talking of filling rather than fabricating then I assume the rust is within the arch and has not migrated as far as the outer wing. That'd be an easy fabrication job to restore with a metal strip and then paint the arch, any decent welder could do it and anyone with a can of primer and a can of paint and a can of clear coat could paint it. Its only when you migrate around and onto the visible outer panel that you need an amount of skill to get a smooth on contour finish and well matched paint.

Those arches are a problem area being double skin spot welded (inner and outer panel seam), so its always going to have a water and grime ingress issue. I noticed some rusting starting on mine, must be at least 10 years ago, so I had it nipped by asking a body shop to sort and weld along the panel seam and its been fine since. It was a bit of overkill but stopped any chance of water getting in between the spot welded panels. They didn't get the colour match on the arches perfect but I'd much rather have a slight colour miss than rusting arches.

Is it facelift or pre-facelift. It makes a massive difference to its scrap value. The former has an empty chamber the latter has a honeycomb cat.

If you are doing a bleed the saying as told to me by an old master is start at the furthest nipple from the cylinder. Which in RHD Supra land is the rear nearside, followed by rear offside, followed by front nearside and lastly front offside. Power bleeding is so much quicker than pedal pumping so hopefully you have a pump ready.

There is a thread somewhere on this site where someone refurbished theirs by peeling them down and repainting with some Halford paint and it a looked good match to the original. I doubt anyone specialises in refurbing plastic panels other than dippers if you seek the carbon look.

If you are after an OEM one - good luck. They have been a discontinued part for 6 years. If you buy a old OEM one check the wear under the mount rubbers as they do wear away and do snap at that point. There are aftermarket bars available, mainly the three hole adjustable type where you can vary the stiffness. There is also occasionally a new (old stock) TRD racing red option that occasionally pops up on ebay.com but the occasional is turning to very occasional these days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yI9FIrJYH-o&ab_channel=longphung

These days the cars tend to go through classic car auctions rather than you dealer trade in and ex-fleet BCA type auctions. With the classic car status now afforded to MkIV Supras then most of us are now on agreed value classic car insurance. Invariably a condition is that the car must be garaged overnight when within X hundred meters of home. If you go for general car insurance that is usually cheaper and you will have your normal driveway insurance. There have been issues in the past when owners have come to claim in a total loss situation and their general insurer then values the cars at 20% of their value. You pays your money according to the risk and negotiating hassle time you are prepared to put in. You probably should look at your insurance options ahead of or at least at the same time as looking for a car. Way back in the 80's I was considering either a Supra MkIII Turbo or a Sierra Cosworth, the insurance on one was £300 with no strings attached the insurance on the other was £5,500 with a stipulation list to make anyone cry from fitting a tracker to having it garaged in an alarmed building 23hrs a day. All because one car was highly nickable and I lived at a suburban address at that time without a useable garage; because the house was built when cars were 4 foot 6 inches wide. I would have been kicking myself if I'd bought a Cossie and then looked to insure it.

I had a garage built just to home my Supra after it had spent the first 19 years of my ownership outside. So outside is fine, at least they then get aired. Keep you eyes of FB and car auctions, you do get the occasional bargain at an auction.

"rear subframe is the unknown so will get it blasted and see what it’s like" Your sub frame will be fine. Its a thick gauge metal. I had my sub frame oven baked which gets to the inside as well as the outside. All the rust is then easily dissolved inside and outside in an acid dip. There will be rusting inside your frame that blasting simply wont touch. The bake and galvanizing wasn't expensive when I did it in 2017. Details on the companies used and costing are on my underside refurb project thread if you decide to go that route.

I believe historic cars are exempt from ULEZ so only a few years to wait until these cars reach 40.

Message Andy Ven, he worked (more successfully than I managed) on sourcing alternative new sensors and is retailing them at a decent price.

I had the same predicament when I sold my MkIII Supra for a BMW 7 series to accommodate the arriving and growing kids and hated it, so I got rid of the BMW and bought my MkIV Supra for myself and a new 4 door car for the wife. Where there is a will, there is usually a way.

I took my car off SORN today and went for a 30 mile B road thrash. That second turbo grunt could get addictive. Roads were busy so lots got to see a Supra out and about around here today. I expect they won't see another for a long time.

With inflation on the rip no one should sell anything unless its for investment in something else straight away. Supra inflation +25% or cash erosion of -7% and rising is a big void to fill or to fall into.

You have missed the Supra boat if you seek a factory manual car. There may be a modified NA car with a BMW manual gearbox for that kind of money but anything with a factory fitted V160 or V161 Toyota original box is now well over your price range. People are asking approaching £10k for just the V160/161 box alone before you get to buying the rest of the car. Have a word with Keron off the forum. He trade the cars and bits for the cars and he is by some margin the lowest cost dealer whilst also being a trusted trader of Supras.

I did a refurb on all four of my callipers in 2017 and they are all still fine using standard, which means cheap eBay parts. So long as they are well greased up with the Castrol red rubber grease they should be good for years. The other option people used to talk about was stainless steel pistons supplied by forum guru Chris Wilson. You can look him up and give him a call, he doesn't do messages or email. He has his contact number as a footnote on his posts.

Its been a nicely warm early spring day today so that afforded quick drying time allowing me time to get the centre caps painted and the first coat of lacquer applied. I'm more than happy with the colour, a very lush distinctly grey silver. It'll be a second coat of lacquer tomorrow and then I'll let the wheels sit for a couple of months before having tyres fitted to give plenty of time for the clear coat to fully cure. I'll either go with Continental or Bridgestone tyres and I guess the next picture should be these wheels sporting new rubber on my car sometime later this year. The OE alloys are such a key part to the stock look that many owners are now hoping to return to, its a pity that most sets got themselves scrapped leaving them a bit of a rare item these days.