rider

I thought I'd check up what the old girl was worth so I ran the details over one of the buy your car sites and my gorgeous white Supra TT, 6 speed with BBS alloys came back at £685. I may as well skip the car and sell the BBS wheels.

You are close by to me, I'm in Shropshire. I've owned my TT 6 speed for 14 years so you can come over for a look and I'll tell you everything there is to know about owning and running one of these cars. Fortunately it's been all good, otherwise I wouldn't still have the car after 14 years. It's not for sale though unless I got an offer I couldn't refuse as I know I'd miss it.

That was pretty close. 51yr old TT import Owned since 1998 - 14 years Mileage restriction 7,500 (though it does more like 4,000) Shropshire Mods, all declared as admiral are renowned for being picky - Dump valve, wide bore exhaust and BBS alloys. Insured for £8k I've had 6 cylinder group 17 to 20 cars since I was 19 and insurance has always been £250 to £350. Mind you, £250 when I was 19 would buy about 700 pints of beer or 1700 litres of petrol so that'd be over £2,000 today. I really should sell it on as it is only used once a week but I enjoy it too much.

I've just renewed with Admiral, had a quote of £327 for the Supra TT but after shopping around got them down to £276 to renew on a protected policy. Thats with one at fault accident recorded as someone ran into the door of the car when it was stationary. It always amazes me how people never admit accidents are their fault even when they run into stationary objects. Without me having someone run into the car the premium may have been slightly lower.

From my fading memory the recommended service interval on pre 94's was 6,000 miles and this was raised to 9,000 miles for post 94's. That was a long time ago and I bet my last pound that if they were to spec in today's oils they would be at 12,000 miles. The viscosity recommendations went to thinner 0W 30 oils around the time the Surpa was coming out to cater for California fuel saving, lower your emmissions, laws that were being introduced at that time; where the car manufacturers had to show they were working towards improving fuel efficiency. The thinner oils were a quick fix way of adding a few % points to economy and their introduction was for no other reason. Generally, the thicker the oil the better the protection will be afforded at high temperatures so for thrash it nuts I'd go for a 40+ weight synthetic over a SAE 30 grade. The lower number which relates to cold crank properties is irrelevant in this country except on the occassional -20C nights when a 0W can have you cranking faster than a 10W. The only recommendation I have with synthetic oils, beyond leaving it in for the duration, is don't switch brands as seals swell in contact with oil and this does vary dependant on the base oil used. If you have used a brand and then replace it with something different that induces relatively less swell then you run a slight risk of introducing seal (oil) leakage.

There was a thread started in the supra chat section that somehow got side tracked into oil change interval and it did look like everyone has their own ideas on the topic but there was a lot of half truths and a few total myths coming up. I did a search on threads and there hasn't really be anything solely dedicated to this topic which is surprising as people seem happy to swap out £50+ worth of expensive synthetic oil every 3,000 to 4,500 miles as a preventative measure. I used to work in oil product development for an oil major and have a lot of experience in what makes a good oil and what breaks down a good oil. Up to 15 years ago all synthethic 4 stroke engine oils were based upon polyalpaholefins (unless for the Swiss lakes biodegradable market when they were ester based) aka PAO's. These are synthetic products that are chemically very stable and so maintained important physical properties for an extended period of time supported by an additive package, chiefly viscosity stability across a wide temperature range coupled with low volatility; both of which are related. Around 15 years ago synthetic oils moved to highly refined mineral oils for the base, basically a very narrow fraction that has high viscosity integrity (high viscosity index - aka. HVI)and doesn't contain light ends, meaning it retains it's viscosity. This switch to HVI mineral oils lowered the base cost by 65%, this left the oil companies very happy as the lower cost was never reflected in the price charged for synthetic oils. The longevity of oils is very reliant upon the additive performance as it is when these are consumed or degraded that oil breakdown can rapidly occur. In large industrial diesel engines the oil is often never changed, just filtered and additive booster packs added. Additive technology has moved on leaps and bounds in the last 20 years - since the Surpa was designed and that is why OEM's can now spec in up to 20K miles change intervals. So, when Supra TT's oil is changed after say 4500 miles you may as well package it up and sell it on Ebay as near new oil or have the oil companies smiling all the way to the recycling bank. The service interval on post 94 Supras is 9,000 miles and with todays oils 9,000 miles is nothing, no matter how hard the car is thrashed. Save yourself some money guys the oil companies don't need it.

I used to work in oil product development for an oil major and I can't recall there being any ester based automotive oils other than 2 stroke. Up to 15 years ago synthethic oils were based upon polyalpaholefins, these are synthetic products that are chemically very stable and so maintained important physical properties for an extended period of time, chiefly viscosity stability across a wide temperature range coupled with low volatility; both of which are related. Around 15 years ago synthetic oils moved to highly refined mineral oils for the base, basically a very narrow fraction that has high viscosity integrity and doesn't contain light ends, meaning it retains it's viscosity. This switch to HVI mineral oils lowered the base cost by 65%, though this was never reflected in the price charged for synthetic oils. The longevity of oils is a function of the additive performance and that is why OEM's can now spec in up to 20K miles change intervals. Additive technology has moved on leaps and bounds in the last 20 years - since the Surpa was designed. So, when Supra TT's oil is changed after 4500 miles you may as well package it up and sell it on Ebay as near new oil or have the oil companies smiling all the way to the recycling bank.

Just as a final note on this thread for anyone else suffering from banging pads there are apparently sprung clips that I need to replace behind the pads so I'm looking around for those at the moment. I did come accross an interesting post on the land rover forum on the same topic. The solution there was pack the pads in with lots of grease backing them and apply gaffa tape around the retaining pins. They are clearly a very rustic lot the land rover crowd. I did look for a post detailing how to work windscreen wipers with lengths of string but they don't seem to have thought of that yet!

That blue smoke puff after a 3 second start up is just like my turbo diesel truck - very embarrassing for you indeed.

Nasty wheels can impact the price a lot so I'd say either get them refurbed which isn't cheap these days at around £80 a wheel for normal paining and closer to £125 for diamond cut. My BBS wheels have cut rims that had blackening where water had go in so I got a few quotes that ranged from £350 for straight painting to £600 for the diamond cut refurb. All a little higher than I expected but I live in a rural area with not a lot of choice on where to go. I decided to spray the rims myself as the laquer hadn't bubbled or broken and although not perfect they look a hell of a lot better and I still have a lot of money in my pocket. So, it could be worthwhile you having a quick spray yourself and if it looks crap you haven't lost anything over getting a refurb done anyway and you would make your car more like a £10,000 motor which is top end price requiring top end looks and performance. This little wheel paint episode served me well as I then tackled some pitting on one wheel arch that I was quoted £350 to sort out by a body shop. Did it myself and I'd give myself a 8 out or 10 for the job, I still have the £350 in my pocket and improving at the paint front all the time.

I called the number you provided but it was busy yesterday and hung up with a call back later message. I googled the number and it came up as Porterfield Brakes so I assume I've been in e-mail comms with Paul but that kind of ended when he pointed out that the pic was UK spec brakes and there wasn't anything similar for Jspec. Looks like it'll have to be expensive toyota as I can't find any retailers from a web search. Thanks for the help, at least i know what I'm looking for now.

Discussions with Porterfield Brakes have petered out on the anti rattle springs/clips when it transpired my brakes are of the Japanese variety and the picture shown here is for the UK 4 pot variety. Does anyone know of any companies supplying springs or clips to retain the pads for the 2 pod Jap spec calipers?

Would you happen to have a contact number for Paul?

Thats bob on for the noise - how do you stop it?

I have an annoying metallic rattle that comes when travelling over rough roads that goes away as soon as the brakes are applied. Garage can't find anything likely to be causing it - anyone got any suggestions or ideas on this? The car has just passed it's MOT without any reports.

Thanks for the very thorough summation of all that is Supra. On the fuel recommendation I have run my TT for the last 13 years and 80,000 miles on standard unleaded with absolutely no problems. No roughness, engine temerature is good and it managed 330bhp at the wheels when I last had it on a rolling road. Also it was BMW M3 eating happy to 158mph on the limiter when I'd run it up and down the autobahn.

I've always found the comparison web sites the best. It usually comes back as Admiral with around £330 a year for a TT on protected no claims. I did have a claim with Admiral 2 years ago when a driver hit my parked car (my fault apparently whenever I go for quotes as it was settled knock for knock - no witnesses) and you only find out how good your insurer is when you claim. They settled and sorted through an approved repairer very efficiently and courteously. That knock didn't affect my premiums either, they have been around £300 for ever for an onld codger like me who has reached the half century - just!

Insurers are unlikely to ever pay out any more than you insure the car for and I'm beginning to wonder if I have my car a little under insured at £5,000. The car is a near show condition 1996 TT in white, 6 speed manual. I've owned the car since 1998 so I've put it through every MOT which, incidentally, it's always sailed through. The car runs as well as I remember it did in 13 years ago. Mileage is 99K though it's pretty much been my second car for the last 8 years so only does about 4,000 a year. So, with full synthetic oil change every 4K miles for a good few years now it really should be running well. The car is a grey import model. Seeing what peeps are looking for similar cars I'm wondering if I may need more like £9,000 to guarantee an equivalent car. Does owning the car for 13 years add value were I looking to sell it on?

The clutch on my 1996 6 speed manual has shown signs of wear for the last 2 years and is now at the early slipping stage under hard acceleration. My question is should I look to replace the clutch with a genuine kit ir take the opportunity to fit a different clutch? The car is an import with some engine add ons but not major performance mods so runs at the original 325bhp. Suggestions on options and cost estimates would be most useful.

As a Supra TT owner for over 10 years now, I am assuming this is an unusual length of time for ownership compared to the norm which seems to be 2 or so years. Has anyone else had their Supra for a decent length of time? If anyone wants to know what long term ownership of a Supra TT is really like then feel free to ask a q or two.

Thanks for the comments and wishes all. I have attached a picture of the Super car (the name given to it by my daughter when she was 2 and couln't say Supra). I'm sure anyone regularly around Shrewsbury will have seen the car touring round over the last decade. The picture I've attached was taken in 2000. The car still looks as good and I have been told by a professional valeter that it wouldn't take much toothbrush work to get up to show condition. Doubt I'll ever sell the car, it'll probably get put under wraps and placed into storage reserved for an occasional outing when I buy a second 'weekend' fun car. Have to say I may be tempted by the new Nissan GTR in the absence of the next generation Supra.

Hi all - just joined in and see I'm too late for the Jap fest get together. Maybe next year? I've owned both a Mk III and Mk IV turbo Supra, the latter being an import 96' N plate RZ 6 speed twin turbo that I purchased in 1999. I doubt if many have owned their Supras for as long as I have; now over 10 years. My Supra has never missed a beat and the engine still kicks out 326bhp (rolling road test last year). Only maintenance beyond oil and filters its ever needed is tyres (32), brake pads (4 sets front and 2 rear), brake discs (front and back), exhaust (2 sets, latter a ss large bore unit), headlight units (yellowed), a/c condenser (holed) and radiator (corroded) . Not bad for a 13 year old car that's about to glide past the 100k milepost. It's always been fed Halfords fully synthetic oil and standard RON unleaded fuel without so much as a hiccup. Fastest I've ever had the car for extended periods is 158 mph on the gauge (limiter max) on several trips along the Autobahn in the years of 2000 - 2002.