rider

Why not just go for tyres with a moulded rim protector ridge?

Reading up about automotive alternators online there is mention of... "Modern designs (since circa 1990) do away with the voltage regulator altogether; voltage regulation is now a function of the electronic control unit (ECU)."

Fixed it this morning, removed the cover and two connectors (one white, one light blue) were disconnected. Coupled these onto the two spade connectors at the bottom near side corner of the screen and all is now well. So for anyone else ever wondering where the screen terminals are and connectors go, wonder no more.

I had a glass out repair on my tailgate to tackle some rust and now the heated screen isn't working. I can't find any wiring diagrams for it. I'm assuming that when the screen was refitted they forgot to plug in the screen, where would the connector be located to check out this simple fix before taking the car back to the body shop?

I'd get lashings of Waxoyl on the floor pan while its looking clean and dry.

I would be suspicious of an old car wrapped. Figuring it was hiding something from crappy paint to bad bodywork. On a new car it has benefits of protecting the paintwork but isn't it like dressing an old girl in drag to do it with a car nearing 20 years old?

For gods sake man, don't be so lazy, take the wheels off. You will probably need to clean the dried dust and mud off the inside of the rims anyway to get to the marks.

Still no prices from Keron so I've put a request into Steven Manley for a quote as a one off or a group buy. I'll post the Toyota dealership price, with forum discount of course, when I get it through.

Just as an add in comment, if is does turn out the be the valve then that is solenoid operated so could be as simple as a fuse fix. Its always best to check the easy fixes before doing anything major.

There is a back light of sorts though with mine you can't actually see enough to read the temperature setting. Been that way since I purchased the car 16 years ago. If you aren't getting enough heat and the engine is running at the correct temperature then it isn't a quick thermostat or radiator cap fix. You could then be looking to a restricted flow into or within the heat exchange matrix caused by an air lock or crud in the system if the flaps are operating OK. Changing out the matrix or the heater hose water valve is apparently a bit of a pain but then it is on most cars. I'd suspect the water valve not opening fully - this link is useful background reading. http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YhLDNDp3Zl8C&pg=PA137&lpg=PA137&dq=Heater+Hose+Water+Valve&source=bl&ots=rusnUsAQtN&sig=9wWem2tRDwCyKDiNxw5Cf7YInf4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=-R3qUoruF6Wb0QWt24CYDQ&ved=0CKsBEOgBMA4#v=onepage&q=Heater%20Hose%20Water%20Valve&f=false

Did your ex get slack or the seat belts?

Don't say that. Hopefully the ones being priced up are premium last for years belts.

Reads like we could have a group buy demand. Would you be interested in starting a group buy if that'd introduce a discount.?

Its annoying, isn't it just.

Go on, shock me how much for a new one? The belt still functions, locks as it should. Just hangs out the door when taken off which is annoying me.

For anyone wanting to air con service their Supra or any other family car then this site gives all the gas and oil weights by vehicle by year. It should be noted that additional oil is only required if the system has experienced a leak and not when simply topping up. Excessive PAG oil will reduce the cooling efficiency in the evaporator though oil starvation will shag your compressor. http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/qrst

The best way to charge is by suction pressure when the compressor is running. You'll find a poorly charged system will pull a vacuum on the suction side of the compressor. Simply charging gas until 10psi positive pressure on the suction side will have the system working well. You will then see a stable liquid stream through the refrigerant sight glass (instead of liquids and lots of bubbles or just gas and no liquid) at 2000rpm engine speed. This way you can avoid having to purge the air con to then measure in the specified amount. The purging part requires very expensive recovery equipment so is auto shop territory. Its an easy job to do yourself. The pressure gauges, R134a refrigerant cylinders and R134a quick release couplings are easily purchased from refrigeration service supplies wholesalers or from places like E-Bay. One 10kg cylinder should last for 15 years of normal use top offs to keep the system charged and running as it should. I personally wouldn't bother with the top up canisters.

My driver seat belt doesn't retract unless it is encouraged to do so. It still functions fine. I'm reluctant to change out for a new one as they have date tags that can be used to corroborate the year of vehicle manufacture. So does anyone know how to get it running freely again. A simple fix like squirt ptfe here? Or is it a replacement only.

You may be able to confirm your part numbers off this site link http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_2.html

Have you tried contacting them direct? mailto:[email protected]

I've owned it since 1998. Thinking of bequeathing it to my grandson rather than my daughters, its more a boys toy after all. So that's going to give me another 20 years, imagine that, 70 and thrashing around in a Supra. By then 70 will be the new 40.

Could possibly be because they aren't making them any more [GRIN][/GRIN] I paid £20k for my '96 import TT6, I think it'll take a while to get back anywhere near to that price again.

You could raise a complaint with the ombudsman. http://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk They will look at your complaint and if they think the insurance company has acted in bad faith they will require things be put right, including honouring agreed pricing for an agreed cover. Then, I'd recommend you sit a UK driving test if you plan to be here for more than 12 month anyway.

I did search 'black box' before posting and no on topic threads popped up so he must have headlined it something not at all close to 'black box'

I've been with Admiral for years but the confused generated quote is always lower then their renewal so I phone up and they price match their own quote.