rider

I have a strange crashing sound coming from the front offside when driving on rough, mainly ribbed surface dressed roads. Total silence on smooth road surfaces so it can't be the wheel bearing. There is no vibration or thuds through the steering so it can't be the steering components. The noise is less but still seems to be there when braking so it can't just be the brake function. I did change all 4 shocks as the sound is like a dry shock so it definitely isn't the absorber. I've had the track rod ends changed so it isn't that. There is a metallic noise from the hub on each rotation after its had a knocking session for I'd guess about a third of the rotation following when the knocking has been quite bad. Its also exacerbated on full left hand lock. Could it be the pad clunking on a sticking or partially seized calliper? Any ideas folks, I'm running out of ideas how to end the noise and my garage is only happy to look into what I suggest they look into. I am thinking just replace the front callipers as they aren't expensive, does anyone have a part number for the import jspec caliper?

I had my condenser replaced at a service time 6 years ago and the bill topped well north of £1,000. Its not a cheap fix but would you buy a car without a/c when it has a/c as standard over a car that has the a/c working? I always find the a/c is more useful in the winter to keep the internal glass clear. The chill on the occasional hot day is just a bonus.

I always get told off for undervaluing. As you do state, silver is a bit out of fashion and is a very common early supra mk4 colour. As a private seller I'd look to £5,250 and bite at any offers over £4,500 to have a reasonable chance of moving it on quickly. Lowest cost 96 plate TT6 on the PistonHeads is £6,995 trade sale No stock or BPU TT6's are presently listed on Auto Trader

It is always to tough call on pricing, it usually depends how fast you want to move it on. Lowest cost 93 TT Auto on the Auto Trader is £3,250 private sale Lowest cost 93 TT Auto on PistonHeads is £5,495 trade sale

Whatever next, Supras in the blue badge parking? At 79 he is doing well to still be able to roll out of the car.

My import came with an Scorpion alarm fitted which was a Cat 2 listed alarm/immobiliser fitment. Never had a problem with insurance. Its a good transponder immobiliser that requires the fob to be in close proximity to the ignition to work. Never had a problem with the unit in my 16 years of ownership. They do Cat 1 listed alarms also. http://www.scorpionauto.com/home/productsearch/vehicle-security?search=alarm

If it were raised then it'd be a simple case of grinding opposite flats. As it isn't raised then if it is a highly torqued bolt I'd drill a hole, reverse thread tap it and screw in a bolt. That does require a steel drill bit, a tap to thread the drill hole and a bolt to fit the new tapped thread. If it isn't highly torqued then the earlier suggestion of cut a groove and screwdriver could work.

I have a BPU running last time I checked had 330bhp at the drive wheels. I changed the clutch late last year after 105,000 miles so there is no reason why a stock clutch can't last a good mileage on a BPU Supra. It just comes down to how its used or abused.

Thanks for the replies guys. To sum up no one appears to have ever had any MOT problems even though guidelines that preclude HID conversions in existing light units would deem that conversions should lead to MOT failure. Maybe the guidelines are being ignored or maybe they are too recent to have filtered through to the guy under the ramp? My Supra is getting on for 20 years old and by todays standards the headlight beam is pretty weak, or maybe its just my eyesight that's fading? The original light fitting and harness isn't compromised with fitting a HID kit so I can't really see any downside to going ahead. If MOT stations start to apply the regulations by the book on HID lights then it is nothing more than unplugging a couple of connectors to reinstate the halogen lamps.

I've purchase a HID main beam kit for the Supra and checking videos online of fitting tips came across this video from Auto Express that says fitting HID bulbs into units designed for halogen bulbs is illegal. My exhaust isn't strictly legal so that doesn't bother me to much. The main concern is they mention there is a good chance of a MOT failure due to the light pattern. So, my question of those who have fitted HID conversions to the Supra headlight is, has it caused problems at MOT time?

Why not just go for tyres with a moulded rim protector ridge?

Reading up about automotive alternators online there is mention of... "Modern designs (since circa 1990) do away with the voltage regulator altogether; voltage regulation is now a function of the electronic control unit (ECU)."

Fixed it this morning, removed the cover and two connectors (one white, one light blue) were disconnected. Coupled these onto the two spade connectors at the bottom near side corner of the screen and all is now well. So for anyone else ever wondering where the screen terminals are and connectors go, wonder no more.

I had a glass out repair on my tailgate to tackle some rust and now the heated screen isn't working. I can't find any wiring diagrams for it. I'm assuming that when the screen was refitted they forgot to plug in the screen, where would the connector be located to check out this simple fix before taking the car back to the body shop?

I'd get lashings of Waxoyl on the floor pan while its looking clean and dry.

I would be suspicious of an old car wrapped. Figuring it was hiding something from crappy paint to bad bodywork. On a new car it has benefits of protecting the paintwork but isn't it like dressing an old girl in drag to do it with a car nearing 20 years old?

For gods sake man, don't be so lazy, take the wheels off. You will probably need to clean the dried dust and mud off the inside of the rims anyway to get to the marks.

Still no prices from Keron so I've put a request into Steven Manley for a quote as a one off or a group buy. I'll post the Toyota dealership price, with forum discount of course, when I get it through.

Just as an add in comment, if is does turn out the be the valve then that is solenoid operated so could be as simple as a fuse fix. Its always best to check the easy fixes before doing anything major.

There is a back light of sorts though with mine you can't actually see enough to read the temperature setting. Been that way since I purchased the car 16 years ago. If you aren't getting enough heat and the engine is running at the correct temperature then it isn't a quick thermostat or radiator cap fix. You could then be looking to a restricted flow into or within the heat exchange matrix caused by an air lock or crud in the system if the flaps are operating OK. Changing out the matrix or the heater hose water valve is apparently a bit of a pain but then it is on most cars. I'd suspect the water valve not opening fully - this link is useful background reading. http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YhLDNDp3Zl8C&pg=PA137&lpg=PA137&dq=Heater+Hose+Water+Valve&source=bl&ots=rusnUsAQtN&sig=9wWem2tRDwCyKDiNxw5Cf7YInf4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=-R3qUoruF6Wb0QWt24CYDQ&ved=0CKsBEOgBMA4#v=onepage&q=Heater%20Hose%20Water%20Valve&f=false

Did your ex get slack or the seat belts?

Don't say that. Hopefully the ones being priced up are premium last for years belts.

Reads like we could have a group buy demand. Would you be interested in starting a group buy if that'd introduce a discount.?

Its annoying, isn't it just.

Go on, shock me how much for a new one? The belt still functions, locks as it should. Just hangs out the door when taken off which is annoying me.