rider

£600 to £650 is a lot to pay for an exhaust and more expensive than getting a bespoke exhaust made to your own desire for noise/performance. My Supra entered the UK with a Blitz exhaust which was great but must have been a mild steel variety as it rotted away. Having gone through a standard exhaust stage I missed the Blitz rumble so replaced the Toyota exhaust with a bespoke stainless one 7 years ago, it has the grunt of the faded Blitz and is only missing a removable/adjustable baffle. Is that really worth an extra £450? The company I used way back when is still trading so must be doing something right. http://www.mijexhaust.com/toyota-exhaust-system-stainless-steel-exhaust.html

I purchased a HB3 kit from an eBay seller. Plugged in and neither side worked. Purchased another kit from a different seller, never arrived. Purchased a third kit from a third seller and they worked. Went for a more expensive metal case as the thin ballast set went straight into the bin. A pointer for anyone considering fitting a HID kit into j-spec headlights is the HB3 bulb lugs do not align with the correct bulb orientation. The return insulated wire should be at the 6 o'clock position according to commentators on the web but is more like at the 2 o'clock position if fitted into the lamp unit without modding the lugs. To get the bulb orientation correct hacksaw off half from the top part of the lug to the right of the bulb (looking down along the length of the bulb, holding the leads with the bulb pointing away from you). You can then fit the bulb to the recommended orientation that does give a raised light pattern relative to the alternative fitment that had the illumination restricted to just in front of the car. Its all to do with the 9005j&6j bulbs having different lug sizes and offsets to the European 9005&6 bulbs. So, eBay is the best place for cheap kits but don't be surprised if you need to go through more than one purchase to gain a working set.

Looks like there is a stone in the rear tyre, tut tut.

The Merc stuff is so expensive because of two things, firstly the name and secondly it'll be a gas/PAG compressor oil mix. It is always good practice if you have had a catastrophic leak to add back top off oil with a new charge, the compressors range from ISO 68 to ISO 220 weight PAG oil but a general ISO 100 will pretty much do as a top up. A healthy air con system will loose up to 10% of its charge each year as it'll be running between 17psi suction to 200psi discharge. So, you should have your system topped up every 4 or 5years anyway. Its when the system falls so low on gas it'll start pulling a vacuum on the low pressure side that you can start to get issues with moisture getting pulled into the system. There are loads of sellers on eBay for R134a, port coupling and gauge sets. You only need the low pressure (blue) port coupler and low side pressure gauge to charge the system. Its a really simple job but must always be done with gloves and specs on as liquid refrigerant will cause burns. With the car running if the a/c pressure is too low the compressor wont engage. The pressure in the system standing should be around 70psi though this is obviously dependent on weather. As soon as the compressor kicks in the LP side pressure will drop and anything below 17psi needs a top up of gas. By opening the screw valve on the gauge set that is coupled to the LP service port and R134a cylinder you can start to feed gas into the system (always feed in gas - don't invert the bottle that could then feed in liquid. Some bottles do have two separate liquid and gas take off valves). Once you have the correct gas content in the system the condenser sight glass will show a steady stream of liquid with no or limited amount of bubbles. Don't be tempted to overcharge a system, that can result in hydraulicing of the compressor which is usually terminal. It really is an easy job to do yourself if no recovery of old refrigerant or drying of the system is required. http://www.refrigerantgases.co.uk/shop/index.php?_a=product&product_id=39 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REFRIGERATION-AIR-CONDITIONING-R134a-MANIFOLD-GAUGE-SET-/400320857218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d34fb8482

I had a similar problem with my front o/s clunking and grinding. Lots of parts were changed including shocks and track rod end without remedy. Turned out to be a warped disc that a new set of discs and pads sorted.

Why do people do it, particularly the unfortunately ugly eyelid treatment to the lights.

I think it may vary by state. Saw something online referring to California 15 year rules on imports though the general ruling seems to be 25 years and some have mentioned 20 years on this site before. I lived in the US for a while and as anyone who has lived there or who watched the first Top Gear episode in the US knows, second hand cars there are not cheap. A large part of that is sales tax applied to second hand purchases, can't think why the government here hasn't cottoned onto charging VAT every time a vehicle is sold through trade.

Just to close this thread off with a resolution. Problem was solved with a new set of front discs and pads.

I was browsing around some classic car sites seeing what's in and what's expected to be in. I am thinking of buying an original Triumph Stag but found a couple of US sites that mention the Supra as one car destined for stratospheric pricing with TT6 minters now making over $50k. Checked out Autotrader US and sure enough plenty of cars in there in the $30k up to nearly $60k range with the NA's parked around $15k to $25k. Its probably a good time for people to stick with their Supras, I have done that with mine over 16 years and it may well one day get back to what I paid for it, who knows maybe more. ][]]&modelCode1=SUPRA&showcaseOwnerId=579471&startYear=1981&Log=0&showcaseOwnerId=579471&captureSearch=true&fromSIP=69F9611880C9A88AAD353679799B317C&showToolbar=true&Log=0&searchRadius=0"]http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/Toyota/Supra/Fords+NJ-08863?endYear=2015&makeCode1=TOYOTA&mmt=[TOYOTA[sUPRA[]][]]&modelCode1=SUPRA&showcaseOwnerId=579471&startYear=1981&Log=0&showcaseOwnerId=579471&captureSearch=true&fromSIP=69F9611880C9A88AAD353679799B317C&showToolbar=true&Log=0&searchRadius=0

Endless only seem available from eBay sellers. Might try them next but would never buy brake pads off eBay.

I went for the EBC redstuff and discs. Reading since, probably not the top choice but I was in a hurry.

My Supra is about to come back from the garage where it has sailed through its 15th MoT (as it has done with the previous 14) and has been given its 18th anniversary belt change as well as a new uprated SMIC. The car went in with a bit of a nasty scraping noise from one of the wheels, finger has been pointed at the brake pads that had clumps of what looks like copper wire and braiding embedded in them that had grooved the disc. So discs have been changed and new ceramic pads purchased for the front NS and OS pair. This will be the first time I've used/tested/tired ceramic brake pads so just wonder how people find them wrt braking efficiency and longevity. Seeing they are 4 times the cost of standard pads how do people rate their investment in them? If they work out well I'll probably put new discs and ceramics on the back next service time.

Its only an inflated price if it sells. Cars can hang around on Piston for months.

I just purchased a run around as an everyday car so went to my Supra insurer, Admiral for a multicar quote. As a stand alone it was £187 and a multi-car component its come in at £161 for the year.

Having originally been interested in fitting a front intercooler just because I instead decided on a Whifbitz SMIC replacement so I didn't need to bother changing the air box. The reason for the change was that I figured that after 18 years it might be time to swap it out. It definitely was due a change out, the fins although intact were all heavily corroded and disintegrated to dust when touched. The Whifbitz was reported by the garage I used to be a spot on fit as a direct replacement and it looks to be a superior build quality to the OE intercooler. Anyone running a Supra on the original SMIC should check it out.

My poor ageing car is in for its service, MOT and the 6 yearly cam belt change and the garage reported the crank pulley ceramic or nylon belt grooves have disintegrated with age related fractures. Thankfully that didn't cause the belt to loosen and slip. Looking for a replacement Toyota GB £306.68 + VAT which comes to a nasty £368.01 plus delivery. Not sure where the 68p comes in but Inchcape Toyota in Oxford did offer a 10% discount off this to club members through the Steve Manley connection. That's still a lot of money so looked at eBay and quite a few genuine Toyota 13407-46020 parts at the US$270 mark. So buying it in from the US seeing the exchange rate is nudging £1 = $1.70 at the moment looks to make sense. Didn't buy off eBay as genuine doesn't always mean genuine so tracked down a Toyota parts supplier and ordered one in for £212.36 (US$353) that includes £50 (US$88) towards express air freight (3 day delivery). Rarely been a better time to buy in expensive parts from the US. If it gets customs intercepted the saving will be £60 if it doesn't it'll be £120.

I've been mainly with Admiral over the 16 years I had my Supra with only 2 excursions with other providers for two years total. I always get cheaper quotes online from the comparison sites than the renewal price quoted by Admiral so I always get the online price when I talk to them. For those wondering how insurers determine a classic here is a definition from the AA insurance website: "If you're over 25 years old, your car is standard build over 15 years old, and you do less than 7,500 miles a year, then we can help." As a footnote there does seem to be a big downgrading of premiums happening at the moment. Just got a quote on my truck that is half what it was last year with no alterations on personal circumstance or available no claims bonus..

It seems from commentators yesterday that some are particularly fond of their Airfix Supras. Each to their own is always good and many glued on parts can be easily remedied. Having look through some of the modified Supras out there, there are some particularly creative ones. I know which plastic Supra would be my favourite. A subtle rear end http://jm-imports.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/f2.jpg The NSX look, nice http://i.wheelsage.org/pictures/t/toyota/veilside/supra_fortune_03_body_kit/veilside_toyota_supra_fortune_03_body_kit_1.jpg Lambo doors, easier to roll out of. http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/AY0F5297.jpg When a spoiler lives up to its name http://www.andysautosport.com/images/bomex/93suprabomexrear.jpg Pass the glue someone, a nice solvent variety will do. http://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/tamiya-124-toyota-supra/

Indeed. Another good reason why the stock or close to stock cars are likely to become the £30,000+ collectors piece in the not too distant future.

The Supra is a pretty decent looking car as it came out of the factory. Though pretty much everyone has changed the wheels. Some prefer to slap on more bits of plastic than an Airfix kit carries. Nice spec single turbo 6 speed on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-SUPRA-750bhp-hks-t51r-single-turbo-6-speed-1997-/171309937291?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27e2de328b To my eye the kit on this car look hideously OTT. When will people learn stock cars attract more buyers and invariably because of that higher prices. I wouldn't give £10k for this car unless it came with a free paper bag with eye slots.

Just wanted to say on the fuel front, where you recommend higher octane fuels. I have run supermarket bog standard in my TT6 for 16 years without any problems. Everything mechanical is as it came out of the factory 18 years ago and she runs fine, dyno was 330bhp at the drive wheels when last tested, on supermarket fuel.

If you want to know the distance around pulleys then get a length of string and tie a slip knot. Run the string around the pulleys and tighten. Snip the string with scissors at the knot. Then just measure the length of string. Can't imagine why you'd want to isolate the aircon though? The compressor is on an electric clutch so runs freely anyway when the a/c isn't working.

Feeling peckish yesterday evening I decided to take the Supra out of the garage for a spin into town to a specialist kebab shop. There was a group of teenagers working on a big exhaust saxo where I parked up. Excuse me one said, that was a shock. What bhp does your car pump out? They were all very complimentary about the car and thought the 400bhp was cool even though I said it was low end by Supra standards. They couldn't believe the car was just about as old as them and that I'd owned it since pretty much they arrived on the scene. So next time you meet some saxo crowd, expect a polite excuse me. I feel sorry for these mini petrol heads as when I was their age, big motor insurance was somehow affordable - just.

I just had mine done. Replaced the seal and the body shop had a glass company come in to remove and refit the glass. At least that way its covered on insurance. Glass company two visits cost £85 but a new rear screen is £600. Seal was around £65. The Body shop was the most expensive part.

No, but I do have a set available to fit so I guess maybe try that first.