rider

The quotes I had on a single upgrade persuaded me if I really wanted a single its better to buy one that is already there. That way someone else has paid for it and you'll know if its a good set up before comitting to buy.

Don't you guys find with the fat arse tyres the road noise becomes unbearable or do you just have the music on louder?

Never heard of Langka before. Checked out Amazon reviews which seem to give it an overall thumbs up. http://www.amazon.com/Langka-LANGKA-The-Blob-Eliminator/product-reviews/B000BAT622 $19 in the USA, £21 here, go figure.

There are plenty of paint shops around that'll colour swatch match your paint and mix up an aerosol for you for around a tenner. I prefer aerosol paint to do stone chips as I can spray it onto a sheet of paper and use it at a nice workable consistency dependant on whether applying to a flat surface or a vertical surface. Dabbed on then smoothed with wet fine paper finished off with cutting paste and you can hardly see the touch up. People probably use different methods to apply the paint. I actually apply it using a toothpick which gives a domed drop finish that is then flattened and smoothed off before the paint is fully hardened. I wonder if anyone else does this but I always had an issue of a sunken hollow when applying with a brush. This method gives me the best results.

I bought a set of these. Metal case so a lot more sturdy then the all plastic ones. £24.64 and working well. Listing ends tomorrow. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140827237367?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You must be sending in this post from Germany. A cut off at 130mph is unusual as its usually 112 or 155. To take it to the upper limit you need to go along the lines of fitting one of these: http://thor-racing.co.uk/Electronic_Speedo_Convert-THOR00497.asp

It is always good practice to top off with the same as the fill oil as mixing ester type oils with POA type oils or mineral type oils can cause some additives (chiefly the detergents) which are dispersed to fall out and sludge and a secondary affect is on seal swell which esters tend to do more than other types. So if you run esters, like the Fuchs Titan Pro S which I do, then you really should stick with esters. If you are close to a service and the oil is on the bottom of the dipstick I wouldn't bother. If its well off the bottom of the stick then you may as well do an oil change and put in 6l of what you know is in there. Any 10W 30 or 10W 40 synthetic oil will suffice. The 30 weight oil is thinner and specified for the Californian market in the 90's to meet their fuel consumption regs. For the UK either does with a heavier weight oil recommended if you practice fast driving regularly.

I had my BBS alloys painted up in BMW shadow chrome and they hide the brake dust quite well.

Just a standard upholstery foam spray which went everywhere.

I made a 36 egg omlette in the passenger footwell after an emergency stop. Carpet came up looking refreshed.

I've had my Supra for 18 years and over that time the drivers side belt in particular has been suffering the common problem of failure to retract fully, leaving dangly bits outside the door. There are threads on here about how to dismantle the belts and retension them. You can also of course buy new ones for around £100. Anyway the garage I take my Surpa to for service mentioned that a belt clean up can often free them up. The belts, over the years, can suffer sticky finger clogging and a good clean will free them up. A little sceptical I set about sponging down the belt followed by spray on cleaner and repeated the process a few times. Finished off with a PTFE spray on the top end of the belt that never usually sees the light of day. Result is it now retracts, not with the twang of a new belt but it does fully retract of its own volition. So for any sticky belt sufferers and you know who you are, a good clean up could sort things out. Along with wearing gloves in future. Time to look out my 1980's style racing gloves that I never owned.

That's correct. From what I took out of the comments was that the bulb looms all have a common plug into the main car loom so that the light units (which do appear as OEM supply to come complete with bulbs) would be a case of take the old cluster out, disconnecting the multi-plug and tow retaining screws and simply replacing with the facelift unit by plugging into the same multi-plug and refitting the two retaining screws. So a 5 minute job and £160 lighter?

Thanks guys. So to sum it all up the bulbs are different pre facelift J-spec or UK-spec to facelift but the lenses come with bulbs and wiring with a loom block that fits the standard wiring loom connector. So its a straight swap. If someone can let me know if that's incorrect. As a straight swap over it probably explains why there are always a fair number of pre facelift light units for sale.

Are the J-spec pre facelift and facelift bulb looms the same? Basically can you just take out the two screws and plug the bulbs from a pre-facelift into a facelift cluster. Having read the UK spec light cluster bulbs are oversized figured I'd better check if the same applies to a J-spec.

Do they offer discounts on large value orders? Titanium exhausts look good and only 6kg.

Whenever I have called in the past he is not at his phone and never returns calls so I preferred to use email to converse with Steve.

If you aren't in a hurry for parts and they are big capital items amongst them then you should look at buying from a Toyota parts distributor in the US. I did this recently for a crank pulley and saved £60 over buying at the 15% discounted price from Inchcape Toyota (effectively a 35% discount over the standard Toyota UK price). The only difference was it took 10 days to arrive rather than 2 and the import duty has to be paid before the package is delivered. As a rule of thumb, you probably need to spend over Euro400 to make the wait worthwhile and absorb the shipping costs if bringing in parts from the US. As a second rule of thumb, if you start off with an order exceeding $1000 you can usually get a good new customer discount from US suppliers.

I emailed an order for parts to Steve a little over a week ago and it got bounced back as no such user so I don't know if he has moved on. Anyway I contacted another parts supplier who gave good service and am asking them if they would be interested in offering a club discount of 15% to match the Inchcape deal. If they say yes I'll post up the details and say what I found better than my dealings with Steve/Inchcape on previous orders.

I know, it's a me thing. I just don't find sticky on plastic and bolt on accessories appealing. Unless it happens to have something like Blitz, HKS or Greddy stamped somewhere on it.

Why would anyone want to put a roll cage into their Supra? Maybe someone knows, I can't figure it out. What's it say about the driver and their ability of maintaining a car on at least 2 wheels? Still seems to be selling well on eBay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Supra-Twin-Turbo-6-speed-/231291344666?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item35da09d71a

The thinner oils were only required to meet US fuel efficiency regs in the 90's and nothing to do with cold cranking. My oil comes out like the day it went in after 4,000 miles between its annual servicing. I have used the Fuchs Titan Pro S 5w 30 for the last three years without any problems. If you have synthetic oil coming out black you are either running a diesel or have some blow by contamination or its acting as a detergent and cleaining up crud left behind from former oil charges. You'd struggle to cook a synthetic ester oil, the base oil class is after all used in gas turnine engines where bearing temperatures run far hotter than anything in your typical car engine.

Low brake fluid level? Check the reservoir is at the required level for the float in the cap.

I tried the polarity all ways, every ways. Even offered to make it a brew. Just a bad kit.

I'd agree, people said they could hear me rumbling up to the pub from almost 2 miles away with the Blitz exhaust. With my more recent bespoke exhaust, people say they can hear me rumbling up to the pub from almost 2 miles away. I notice the difference with the Blitz seeming more responsive to revving with its tone and the bespoke is much louder on overrun. Both sound good, is the difference worth 3 times the price? Probably yes if money is no object.

My TT6 has been sitting outside for 16 years, 15 literally outside with the last year in a new garage. Never had an issue with it, including never blown a single bulb.