rider

When I first bought my Supra its was a menacing black Mk3 Turbo, then I moved onto a Mk4 TT in 1998 that has stayed with me ever since. Always figured it has seductive form which when viewed from above has that classic female form, from the rear that near Ferrari stance and from the front nothing quite like it. Over the last 17 years of ownership the car has constantly been admired. Plenty of nice car mate hollered over from a pavement or from people passing by in a car park. Or mums coming over to just tell me their young sons love the car. The Supra is definitely a well sculptured machine. However, I've discovered there is a major difference between the sexes. Yes, I've only just figured it out! Having bought myself a 1970's sports classic last year that doesn't have the grunt of a Corsa or the curvaceous lines of a Supra, it does sport mini fins though. Anyway this little rag top gets so much female attention I'm actually embarrassed to ride around in it with the lovely wife. Women just love it and I've had to decline kind offers to have total strangers jump in with me. So I've come to the conclusion the Supra is definitely one for the boys, of all ages. My little chromed and polished up MGB roadster, well that could get me into a whole heap of trouble.

I think with around the £11k you should be in pretty good shape for a very good TT6 but as others mention it may take a while. If you are selling your own car then patience is important so if that's your only car you'll probably need to buy a run around as a stand in. As for Supras as every day cars when I purchased mine it was my only car so I was putting up to 12k miles a year on it so its never a worry even now they are much older beyond how much you'll give its value a hit. I now own 5 cars so the Supra is pretty much retired to sunny days only. If I was looking to sell my own TT6 with 17 years of service history (as long as I've owned it) I'd be looking to get between £8k and £10k dependent on how desperate I was to sell it and its a totally reliable good one so just sit back and wait. Not for mine though as I'm planning on keeping it until I'm off the mortal coil or it gets written off in an accident or stolen. I figure in 10 years time it'll be worth nearer £20k which is what I paid for it.

Could be condensation running off the evaporator if you have had the a/c running. Tell tail sign would be a water puddle under the car. Clear distilled type pure water. The higher the ambient remperature and humidity the more condensation there will be - so not usually that noticable in winter except on milder days.

I had this problem intermittently except the lock would work and the unlock wouldn't. The fault could last a day or the longest was 6 months. Not going to help you out here much as I never did find a cause but the car finally self healed and it hasn't reoccurred for over 7 years now. My car seems to self fix lots of things, it must have left the factory with some helpful Japanese gremlins on board. Figured its likely to be a bad connection somewhere deep in the electrics.

If a signal booster for a stock Japanese ICE system is fitted it'd ordinarily be alongside the antenna and using the power supplied to the antenna. If you remove the rear side panel you'll be able to see if the antenna lead plugs into a wave band expander or not. I think the antenna runs off the same 7.5A fuse as the radio. http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/363cx-1995-toyota-supra-fuse-box-schematic-question.html

I've had my Supra TT since 1998 and it lived outside up until I finally retired it to a new garage built last year. The good thing about outdoors life is as well as getting wet the car is aired so it dries which can be better than sitting in a warmer humid garage festering away. So now mine is hidden away in a garage, it only comes out in the dry whereas before it was all weathers. Even at 18 years old, original paint except for a couple of minor ding areas that were bodyshopped (one was a pesky badger attack) it looks great. It has been thoroughly pampered though.

Don't like it myself. Supras need high gloss to extenuate the curves to their best effect.

Are you sure you aren't just hitting the rev limiter

Ditto with the radiator cap not venting the excess pressure. Caps are available on eBay though some of the claimed TRD ones are overly cheap. Here is a couple of links to caps that may help out. Though you'd probably be better sourcing via the USA. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRD-Radiator-Cap-Toyota-Racing-Development-Supra-2JZ-Yaris-Vitz-Corolla-Starlet-/161469179546?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/291177148332?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108 The top one is for a 1.3bar cap and the bottom for a 1.1bar cap. Stock is 0.9bar so I'd plump for the cheaper 1.1bar myself rather than go TRD for the sake of it.

Guy was selling a similar 18" staggered set of CR's off a Scooby in 2011 for £680 without tyres or £800 with good tyres. Kept bumping with no sign of a sale. I looked seriously at a set of these in 2013 to replace my BBS set that needed a refurb. Prices new in the UK were around the £2k mark and as high as £3.5k (go figure). New from the USA were £1.3k DDP. New from Japan £1.2k DDP. Having spent a while reviewing prices I would have paid £800 for an A1 second hand set, £600 for a set in need of a refurb or bought in new from Japan. In the end though, decided to refurb the BBS set for £240 instead.

An air leak on the inlet side that could be fluctuating the mixture? I'd check all the coupling are firmly secured and hose in ear listen over for any sucking sounds. Reset on the ECUs by disconnecting the battery. Unless its you on the right foot you'd imagine it has to be mixture or ECU related.

Don't buy from eBay. They are cheap imitations that lose their sheen very quickly. I have a chrome badge that is now entirely black. Haven't replaced it as the black badge looks OK on a white car.

I didn't go ahead at £180, could well be tempted at £140 for a new set. Can you remember any sellers with that price. Second hand sets sold here on scrappages go too quickly so I'm still looking for a set of facelift rears but not at £300 or even £180.

Came across this eBay listing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Supra-MK4-Twin-Turbo-2JZ-GTE-JZA80-Facelift-Rear-Lights-Bulbs-1997-onwards-W-W-/151428100736?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2341d17280 Rear facelift second hand light units. Both sides. Good condition except for snipped wiring loom. Only twice the price of new units from Toyota. I got quoted £180 for these, new delivered including VAT a few months back. If this eBay set sell I'm going to start advertising new units for only £300 + delivery. Or maybe the seller should just stick with selling Evo parts?

My missus likes the power, hates the responsibility and can't judge the end of the bonnet. She has open access to all of our cars but doesn't like driving the Supra, preferring the other 2. That's something that doesn't bother me, at all.

I had the same thing bug me for years. Got so fed up with it in the end I had all the shocks replaced figuring it might just be a sticking strut and it gave me the excuse to change out the original ones for new OE ones. It wasn't, the knocking carried on as before. I had also checked the calipers for sticking, not that either. In the end it was fixed by changing the front discs and pads. Went for £100 discs and £100 pads, not the most expensive combination available but not the cheapest either. I suspect it was excessive play on the former stock pads causing the knocking.

It'd help if you mention age. I tend to undervalue compared to others but the titanium exhaust is an expensive after market item so I'd expect to pitch around £8k to £10k and knock a grand off for shoddy bodywork. No one wants a dented motor.

Reads like a strange one. the first thing I'd check is the electrics, is the block earth loose or corroded? Simple test would be to jump lead the block to the negative battery terminal and see if the misfire goes.

The specified service interval is 12 months or 9,000 miles, whichever comes sooner. I wouldn't worry too much about the oil, using a fully synthetic it'll run way over 9,000 miles without issue even if you are a thrash monkey. even when I was doing that kind of mileage in a year the oil would drop out looking and feeling the same as the day it went in. BHP doesn't matter as far as an oil is concerned, that's more dependent on ring blow by and running temperature as the rpm and pressures will be pretty much the same as standard.

If you haven't got an oily film in your expansion bottle or milky oil in your sump or excessive steam coming out of the exhaust I'd look to a sticking thermostat first.

Go for something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H3-6000K-HID-FRONT-FOG-MINI-BALLAST-Xenon-Conversion-KIT-TOYOTA-/181275218837?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item2a34d85395 Colour range 6000K to 8000K for white/pale blue. If you go above 8000K then you are heading deeper blue light. I prefer 6000K myself. You can choose 35W or 55W. I'd recommend the 35W as 55W are more likely to blind oncoming motorists than the 35W variety. I'd also go for a CANBUS kit. I bought a non Canbus set that didn't work. Tried again with a Canbus kit that did work. I'd recommend go for metal case kits rather than plastic case. They look and feel a lot more durable. The kits are plug and play and the units can be clamped alongside the standard airbox on the o/s wing and alongside the battery on the n/s wing. You can do this with double sided tape or kits come with fixing brackets if you want to screw them into the inner wing panels. If you plug in and nothing works try switching the polarity leads on the kit first. £30 will buy you a decent kit or you can spend £300 on a Phillips kit.

I had something similar develop within a viscous fan on an old Capri special I owned. Removed it and ran some engine oil into the casing and it sorted it, free moving and silent for years afterwards. Anyone trying this fix though need to be aware that for older couplings the grease will be thinned by any oil fed in so you don't want to slop in lots. Or it could be the water pump bearing?

Its a realistic spend for a N/A and you could even find a lower end auto TT at that price. It'd have to be a bit of a dog though so best stick to looking for a tidy N/A. When I purchased my car in 1998 it was the 6th I looked at. If you aren't in a hurry bide your time for the right vehicle as that'll pay dividends later. I'm proud of my selection as its proved uber reliable and as I'm often keen to say, it has never so much as ever blown a bulb in 16 years of ownership.

Prices in the USA for low mile mint TT6s are now as high as £50k. Probably because they have restrictions on grey imports. Here there are still lots of cars being shipped in from Japan and until that ends or Japanese prices firm up then the UK price is unlikely to head anywhere beyond what it costs to import and have a importers mark up. You can get low km cars in Japan landed in the UK for as low as £8k so its hard to see how prices could ever go much above £10k - £12k before desirable mods. Maybe if people stopped buying from importers, prices would go up?

That's mine, 16 years and never even blown a bulb.