rider

An air leak on the inlet side that could be fluctuating the mixture? I'd check all the coupling are firmly secured and hose in ear listen over for any sucking sounds. Reset on the ECUs by disconnecting the battery. Unless its you on the right foot you'd imagine it has to be mixture or ECU related.

Don't buy from eBay. They are cheap imitations that lose their sheen very quickly. I have a chrome badge that is now entirely black. Haven't replaced it as the black badge looks OK on a white car.

I didn't go ahead at £180, could well be tempted at £140 for a new set. Can you remember any sellers with that price. Second hand sets sold here on scrappages go too quickly so I'm still looking for a set of facelift rears but not at £300 or even £180.

Came across this eBay listing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Supra-MK4-Twin-Turbo-2JZ-GTE-JZA80-Facelift-Rear-Lights-Bulbs-1997-onwards-W-W-/151428100736?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2341d17280 Rear facelift second hand light units. Both sides. Good condition except for snipped wiring loom. Only twice the price of new units from Toyota. I got quoted £180 for these, new delivered including VAT a few months back. If this eBay set sell I'm going to start advertising new units for only £300 + delivery. Or maybe the seller should just stick with selling Evo parts?

My missus likes the power, hates the responsibility and can't judge the end of the bonnet. She has open access to all of our cars but doesn't like driving the Supra, preferring the other 2. That's something that doesn't bother me, at all.

I had the same thing bug me for years. Got so fed up with it in the end I had all the shocks replaced figuring it might just be a sticking strut and it gave me the excuse to change out the original ones for new OE ones. It wasn't, the knocking carried on as before. I had also checked the calipers for sticking, not that either. In the end it was fixed by changing the front discs and pads. Went for £100 discs and £100 pads, not the most expensive combination available but not the cheapest either. I suspect it was excessive play on the former stock pads causing the knocking.

It'd help if you mention age. I tend to undervalue compared to others but the titanium exhaust is an expensive after market item so I'd expect to pitch around £8k to £10k and knock a grand off for shoddy bodywork. No one wants a dented motor.

Reads like a strange one. the first thing I'd check is the electrics, is the block earth loose or corroded? Simple test would be to jump lead the block to the negative battery terminal and see if the misfire goes.

The specified service interval is 12 months or 9,000 miles, whichever comes sooner. I wouldn't worry too much about the oil, using a fully synthetic it'll run way over 9,000 miles without issue even if you are a thrash monkey. even when I was doing that kind of mileage in a year the oil would drop out looking and feeling the same as the day it went in. BHP doesn't matter as far as an oil is concerned, that's more dependent on ring blow by and running temperature as the rpm and pressures will be pretty much the same as standard.

If you haven't got an oily film in your expansion bottle or milky oil in your sump or excessive steam coming out of the exhaust I'd look to a sticking thermostat first.

Go for something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H3-6000K-HID-FRONT-FOG-MINI-BALLAST-Xenon-Conversion-KIT-TOYOTA-/181275218837?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item2a34d85395 Colour range 6000K to 8000K for white/pale blue. If you go above 8000K then you are heading deeper blue light. I prefer 6000K myself. You can choose 35W or 55W. I'd recommend the 35W as 55W are more likely to blind oncoming motorists than the 35W variety. I'd also go for a CANBUS kit. I bought a non Canbus set that didn't work. Tried again with a Canbus kit that did work. I'd recommend go for metal case kits rather than plastic case. They look and feel a lot more durable. The kits are plug and play and the units can be clamped alongside the standard airbox on the o/s wing and alongside the battery on the n/s wing. You can do this with double sided tape or kits come with fixing brackets if you want to screw them into the inner wing panels. If you plug in and nothing works try switching the polarity leads on the kit first. £30 will buy you a decent kit or you can spend £300 on a Phillips kit.

I had something similar develop within a viscous fan on an old Capri special I owned. Removed it and ran some engine oil into the casing and it sorted it, free moving and silent for years afterwards. Anyone trying this fix though need to be aware that for older couplings the grease will be thinned by any oil fed in so you don't want to slop in lots. Or it could be the water pump bearing?

Its a realistic spend for a N/A and you could even find a lower end auto TT at that price. It'd have to be a bit of a dog though so best stick to looking for a tidy N/A. When I purchased my car in 1998 it was the 6th I looked at. If you aren't in a hurry bide your time for the right vehicle as that'll pay dividends later. I'm proud of my selection as its proved uber reliable and as I'm often keen to say, it has never so much as ever blown a bulb in 16 years of ownership.

Prices in the USA for low mile mint TT6s are now as high as £50k. Probably because they have restrictions on grey imports. Here there are still lots of cars being shipped in from Japan and until that ends or Japanese prices firm up then the UK price is unlikely to head anywhere beyond what it costs to import and have a importers mark up. You can get low km cars in Japan landed in the UK for as low as £8k so its hard to see how prices could ever go much above £10k - £12k before desirable mods. Maybe if people stopped buying from importers, prices would go up?

That's mine, 16 years and never even blown a bulb.

The quotes I had on a single upgrade persuaded me if I really wanted a single its better to buy one that is already there. That way someone else has paid for it and you'll know if its a good set up before comitting to buy.

Don't you guys find with the fat arse tyres the road noise becomes unbearable or do you just have the music on louder?

Never heard of Langka before. Checked out Amazon reviews which seem to give it an overall thumbs up. http://www.amazon.com/Langka-LANGKA-The-Blob-Eliminator/product-reviews/B000BAT622 $19 in the USA, £21 here, go figure.

There are plenty of paint shops around that'll colour swatch match your paint and mix up an aerosol for you for around a tenner. I prefer aerosol paint to do stone chips as I can spray it onto a sheet of paper and use it at a nice workable consistency dependant on whether applying to a flat surface or a vertical surface. Dabbed on then smoothed with wet fine paper finished off with cutting paste and you can hardly see the touch up. People probably use different methods to apply the paint. I actually apply it using a toothpick which gives a domed drop finish that is then flattened and smoothed off before the paint is fully hardened. I wonder if anyone else does this but I always had an issue of a sunken hollow when applying with a brush. This method gives me the best results.

I bought a set of these. Metal case so a lot more sturdy then the all plastic ones. £24.64 and working well. Listing ends tomorrow. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140827237367?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

You must be sending in this post from Germany. A cut off at 130mph is unusual as its usually 112 or 155. To take it to the upper limit you need to go along the lines of fitting one of these: http://thor-racing.co.uk/Electronic_Speedo_Convert-THOR00497.asp

It is always good practice to top off with the same as the fill oil as mixing ester type oils with POA type oils or mineral type oils can cause some additives (chiefly the detergents) which are dispersed to fall out and sludge and a secondary affect is on seal swell which esters tend to do more than other types. So if you run esters, like the Fuchs Titan Pro S which I do, then you really should stick with esters. If you are close to a service and the oil is on the bottom of the dipstick I wouldn't bother. If its well off the bottom of the stick then you may as well do an oil change and put in 6l of what you know is in there. Any 10W 30 or 10W 40 synthetic oil will suffice. The 30 weight oil is thinner and specified for the Californian market in the 90's to meet their fuel consumption regs. For the UK either does with a heavier weight oil recommended if you practice fast driving regularly.

I had my BBS alloys painted up in BMW shadow chrome and they hide the brake dust quite well.

Just a standard upholstery foam spray which went everywhere.

I made a 36 egg omlette in the passenger footwell after an emergency stop. Carpet came up looking refreshed.