rider

I'm going to have a little dig so forgive me. Can't see the point in putting an 'I paid' on a for sale of second hand goods ad. You probably overpaid. £450 does look a lot for a second hand exhaust system when a new one is £500 + VAT. There is the 68100 Blitz exhaust for sale on eBay Japan for ¥ 54,432 (direct from the factory). That's £280. Maybe someone should organise a club multi-buy?

You might find this video useful Failing that there are plenty of vehicles that spec in the Denso Type 10PA17H compressor so it should be an easy to find scrapper part.

It is really difficult to attempt to track down the part when I don't even know where it came from within the car. Try this site, you should track it down by knowing where it is used. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_3.html

If you want to find out the part number of any and every clip, stud, push pin, tack, hanger, and odd job fixer ever employed by Toyota here is your plastic plug dream: http://www.fixag.ru/klipsy_toyota_lexus_1.html I reckon it could be 6792132010

Is track day insurance a big deal? As in what would it normally cost. It came as part of my classic car policy and it's not something I'm burning to take advantage of. I'm just curious to know how much people would normally pay for track day insurance as a one day or full year cover.

I felt an appreciable difference on my uprated Supra with the Whifbitz larger side intercooler. How much of that was down to cooling efficiency over the old one due solely to the fins on the old one having turned to powder is impossible to say. When the new intercooler was fitted I felt the car got most of its mojo back from what I could recall from when it was a new car so its probably a case of a fully functioning unit is more important than size. My wife hears that a lot.

I changed my power steering fluid because it was starting to smell. Prevention is always far better than a cure. Dip your finger in and if its darker or smelling less than sweet than new fluid then change it. If its darker and gritty that's not a good sign.

My car was BPU'd from near birth as I purchased the car when it was 2 years old and last time I checked it was still churning 340bhp at the drive wheels. As far as I'm aware, being a Jap import, its running the original ceramic turbos with 110,000 miles now covered. Engine is as sweet as the day I bought it and replacing the clutch plus fitting a new intercooler last year helped the straight line acceleration considerably. So expect the high mileage serviceable items to need attention well ahead of a BPU power unit.

I can't remember what a stock one sounds like. The Blitz fitted to my car is loud sounding like a load of thick phlegm about to be ejected..

Depends if you are talking side or front install. If side I'd ask Garage Whifbitz as I fitted one of their units that is much larger than the stock intercooler and that's pretty much as big as you can go for a side mounted one.

Does anyone fit budget tyres to their Supra? I've driven hundreds of miles at the limiter in my Supra without any fuss, shakes, rattles or rolls. Usually on Continental or Pirelli tyres.

Why would anyone take a risk on such a critical component? For the sake of £100 risk screwing the bottom end of your engine. I thought the Toyota UK prices were a bit steep on this pulley so I ended up buying a genuine Toyota one from a US dealership. Paid the price, paid air freight, paid import duties and was almost £100 cheaper. That was around a year ago so may not be as advantageous now the £ has slid a bit against the US$. The story line remains though, you don't need to just buy genuine parts from UK suppliers. I just purchased a OE throttle body for my Audi via a German outfit for 40% of the price from Audi UK.

I can't see those numbers being correct. I reckoned from the numbers that used to be on sale there were about 2500 at their peak made up of roughly 500 UK-spec and 2000 J-spec which would break down somewhere around a 1000 turbo cars and 1500 na. That's all guesstimated but I don't think it'd be a million cars off. So its surprising how far the numbers have fallen but really - that far? Then again I haven't seen any round here for a long time; other then my own of course. See that almost daily.

I've just renewed my insurance and raised the level from £9k to an agreed £12k. I had the value for insurance at £4.5k ten years ago. Still a long way to go to match USA prices though I think it may well get back to the £20k I paid for it within the coming 5 years.

Just trawled eBay and the other usual sites and there looks to be around 30 Supra's IV listed. There used to be only a few years ago over 100 just on eBay. Where did they all go? Prices seem to have taken a recent large spike upwards, probably reflecting the limited availability. I wonder how many have ended up broken for parts.

Went through Heritage who arranged Chaucer insurance. I'm 55yrs with a clean record. No mods to the car beyond wheels and exhaust. Set it up on a 3,000 mile limit, was £30 more for 5,000 miles (I only did 1,100 mile last year). Excess is higher than on a non classic policy at £300. The reason I went classic was it didn't cost any more (was actually slightly cheaper) and offers the agreed value, I couldn't imagine Admiral stumping up £12k in a total loss situation.

I had the Supra on a multi-car but have moved it onto an agreed value (£12k) classic car policy for £220. As a stand alone I could have got it insured for £174 but on the multi-car it was £260. So a £40 saving with the added benefit of agreed value rather than market value. Insurance also covers track days.

There may be some daylight in this Prelude restricted revs on a new build thread. http://www.preludeonline.com/f60/rebuilt-engine-will-not-rev-past-3000-rpm-s-238501/ Goes on about a throttle sensor fault.

No, didn't paint above either of the arches. Good guess though. It is actually painted the wire wheels, both arches and the sills up to the bottom of the door level. On the other side of the car there was some surface rust on the lip of that rear arch which I did paint but this side was fine apart from the rims. Even if you are up close you can't tell its been painted, its a quality job from someone with little painting experience. So, for the sake of £40 on paint, lacquer, filler and sanding sheets if it was me I'd give it a go. If it works out then £400 saved. If it doesn't then its going to look better than it does and maybe good enough to live with. So, nothing to lose really by giving it a go and if it works out you can stand back and admire your work which I do every time I wheel out the MGB that I splashed almost 600ml of paint over bringing it up to my required standard.

I don't think so. Tell me which bits I painted on my MGB from this picture.

This is sensible as it'll help eliminate corrosion setting in the internals of the engine and ensure all seals remain 'wet'. The real danger though is someone turning over then engine without draining it first to the required level so second best is a new charge of engine oil just before storage, better still two oil changes. That'll remove all or most of the oil that contains combustion products and lower levels of acid regulators and anti-corrosion additives than fresh oil. Aside from that the only things I'd do is just sit on jacks to take the weight off the tyres to prevent flat spots. Remove the battery. Plus add a mouse trap or two inside the car, not the old spring ones but the containment boxes.

Usually available on eBay. I got a full set off there.

If you have an air compressor or access to one I'd recommend giving the paint job a go yourself. You can buy touch up guns with a 0.8mm nozzle (£25) for fine touch up area work which I have used with a surprising degree of success on an MGB I've touched up (well it was more than a touch up - 800ml of paint later). So long as you get a good colour match and any good auto paint shop that retails to the trade should be able to colour match into aerosols or paint. If you can't get hold of an air compressor then colour matched rattle cans work well. I was a reluctant body repair and paint sprayer but after dabbling with my MGB sorting out chips and minor surface rust I've just done a whole re-spray on a Land Rover last week with pretty decent results. There are loads of youtube videos on how to prep and spray paint, including setting up the gun properly. From small touch up jobs to full panel paints. I found out it all comes down to surface prep which is laborious and fast confident spraying.

My car has just passed it's 16th MOT and I've owned it through all 16. MOT tester comment was has it really been a year since.... It sailed through again, as it has every other time. Do Supras ever fail their MOT's, what are the normal failure items? Is my car unusual, its still running the original bulbs apart from headlights that I upgraded to HID?

A minute with a small blow torch and the Loctite that is used on the bolts melts and they can then be easily removed. Changing the side rubber stops should only be a five minute job. An eternity if you don't heat the threads though.