rider

A possible source could be http://toxic-automotive.myshopify.com/collections/stealth-led-tail-light-conversions-for-mkiv-toyota-supra/products/single-cob-ring-stealth-mkiv-toyota-supra-led-tail-light-conversion Lots of options on style but for me, its way to much to justify on a set of fancy rear lights. I'd rather put that kind of money to a new set of wheels if I needed them.

Hope it was the new 2k non-isocyanate paint if you were painting outside of a booth and pressurised mask.

That reads like one of those I'm expecting people to waste a lot more of their time than I did writing about nothing in particular. Maybe power spec, colour, transmission, budget, timeframe etc. would give a hint that its a remotely serious enquiry or you'll just have people guessing what tickles your very individual fancy.

Its a fair point, my car is a Japanese import that had 22k miles after two years. I'd take these claims of 20 year Supras and 60k miles for fresh jap imports with a skip load of salt. J Spec TT6's are running around £12k now and UK ones tend to be more like £15k on higher, probably more genuine, mileage. Just as well I've kept all 16 MOT certificates for my car!

Reads like a tired battery to me. Are you sure its not the battery or bad contacts imitating a bad battery?

Its outside number 39 if that helps. Maybe you can zoom into the number 6 on the lamppost. Might have a borough reference? Or the doggy don't poo here notice.

Just added to my growing garage with my first import, as in the first import I'm arranging as my Supra is a Japanese import. Filling up with classics following placing the Supra this year on classic car insurance. This is the third classic I've purchased in the last year having just purchased an 'A' code '65 Mustang Fastback from a dealer in the Mid-West which should be shipping next week and be here by the end of September. It sounds good on the video upload with its V8 289 cubic engine lumping away. It'll be my first V8 after a long line of 4's and 6's. When its here I'll take and post a pic of the two fastbacks together, the Ford and the Toyota. I've promise my wife that this 7th car on the property will definitely be the last I'm buying, for a while at least.

The plugs are different. OBD2 didn't start to become standard fit until the late 90's after being introduced in the mid 90's.

The cam belt could have failed. Best hope beyond hope that's not the case though.

Check the timing isn't miles out so its looking to bang in all the wrong places.

If you haven't got anything specific to hand and you have a can of Brasso sitting in your cupboard then this is an excellent cutting compound to use on plastic headlights. Followed by a normal polish buff afterwards.

There is a low pressure cut off to prevent the suction side pulling a vacuum which would potentially allow air and moisture to enter the system. A system at standstill on a normal day will have a static pressure of around 70psi. The compressor will suck this down to around 17psi on the inlet on a charged system. If the gas level is low then this can fall below 0 psi and the LP cut off will activate. So, I'd suggest check your sight glass in the few seconds the compressor runs. No liquid - you should see bubbles in the liquid - then chances are the system needs a top up.

My car must be exceptional. I spent more on a cam belt failing heads repair on a 4 year old Audi A6 (Audi only warranty the part for 2 years in spite of a 6 year service tag) than I've spent maintaining my Supra over 17 years. Its always been uber reliable, I figured like they all are.

I just painted mine today. At 18 years old it has a couple of small cracks but pretty sound. There is a row of screws along the lip of the bumper and a couple of bolts on the guard that I could see. Didn't notice any at the front of the tank area. The front protector is also prone to rust. New the parts are £260 for the full tank protector and £27 for the small shield that sits to the front o/s of the tank. I ordered the small protector today as the present one is flapping in the wind having rusted around one of the two bolt holes. If you are doing the full tank protector its worth checking out the condition of the smaller protector at the same time.

I don't know. The 4 dents on the roof would put me off even if the £8k tag on an auto didn't.

SAE 60 is really for racing or it could be used in old slapper engines to reduce noise and oil consumption. The higher viscosity, roughly twice that of a 40 weight oil, just ensure a higher viscosity when operating at the endurance limits. Seeking out higher oil pressure is meaningless, the thicker the oil the higher the pressure because there is a higher resistance to oil flow which translates to lower oil flow. It may look good on the pressure gauge but may not look as good on the bearings. Porsche and Ferrari do high revving engines that leave the factory on 40 weigh oils. The 40 weight oil will also give significantly better fuel consumption than a 60 weight oil. Now as Lee said Supra T or TT drivers don't tend to be too concerned with fuel and running costs but I can't see why you'd burn fuel just because you can? If the OP is looking for the best of both Worlds then a 50 weight oil would suffice. If the OP is just looking to thrash normal Supra style then a 40 weight oil will be good. If the OP is just going to be running the Le Mans 24hr then go for the 60 weight oil.

As I suggested, SAE 60 is best left as the reserve of track days.

Why? 60 grade oil is only any use if the car is going to be constantly at 6000rpm for extended periods. The thinner the oil the better it is for circulation and fuel economy under 'normal' conditions. The factory spec on a stock engine was SAE30 or SAE40. A few machined components don't mean you change the oil spec. Ferrari spec in a 40 weight oil and their engines are manufactured to very high and very tight tolerances. SAE 60 should be left exclusively for track days.

Any in spec 40 weight synthetic oil is good enough. There isn't much to choose between them. PS I'm an ex-lubricant formulator.

Fully polished wheels need to be clean, all the time. And when they pit or get scuffed they look pants. I'd stick with paint and I did a set of BBS alloys on my white Supra in BMW shadow chrome. They look tasteful. Having hammered the polished option I do have to confess I've just bought a chrome wire wheel set for one of my classic cars and they look bling. Its a car that never goes out in the wet though so it'll be easier to keep them clean.

That's really funny, especially as ozone is highly toxic. It like boasting of having a zyklon b canister off eBay to deodorise the carpets.

A site I find easy to navigate to locate parts numbers is: http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/ It's probably because its picture schematic driven.

A site I find easier to navigate to locate parts numbers is: http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/ It's probably because its picture schematic driven.

The price is an issue, in that no one is realistically going to buy at that price. These are usually fetching no more than £3k on eBay. Piston Heads may be a good place to advertise as cars always seem to be more expensive there. I'd recommend putting a motorbike number plate on the rear to cover the hole.

I'd look at water in the fuel.