rider

No you don't. A UK motorbike number plate covers the hole and then you can either tape it around the edges which I did for 16 years without loss though the tape did need replacing every couple of years when it started to lift. the final solution that I got around to after 16 years was to tape around the edges and screw to the bracket behind with, I think the size was M6, stainless screws. Now that plate isn't going anywhere.

I replaced my stock clutch after 108,000 miles with a stock clutch on my BPU so there is no problem with handling that slight power rise over stock.

People tend to sell these in pairs and you'd probably be best buying in pairs to have roughly the same clarity on both lenses. I have a pair sitting that I replaced because they were ever so slightly yellowed (plastic lenses) if you want to make me an offer for the pair then I could post pictures if your offer excites me. They would be an easy lens polish job to restore the clarity which only I and similar perfectionists would notice anyway.

You can buy replacement rubbers with replacement units. The Headlight units weren't designed to be serviceable. If you are suffering misting in the light unit the best you can do is use some black sealant around the lens.

Worth a read, and weep for wide tyre fans. http://www.caranddriver.com/features/effects-of-upsized-wheels-and-tires-tested Slower accelleration, slower 1/4 mile and massive drop in fuel economy = wider tyres.

This wide tyre thing is wierd. Lots of people buy them because they think they look cool. OK maybe they look cool maybe they don't. Then you get the race crowd who buy them because they imagine its going to give them extra go faster grip. Thats the nonsense part particularly if you are looking at the lower profile 19 inch rims. Lower the profile and you increase the wall rigidity which means the tyre footprint may be wider across the tyre but it'll be narrower along the tyre. Studies also show that wider tyres are bad news when it comes to wet surfaces. Aquaplaning on a test Porche 911 reported adding an inch to the tyre width lowered the aquaplaning speed by 15%. Then you have the extra road noise on 99% of UK roads, particlarly all the surface dressed variety. Wide tyres, what a waste. The only thing you compromise is your own ears and safety.

That's a poor reason. I just bough a significantly more expensive Ford Mustang that I'm importing from the USA. Didn't stop me keeping my Supra. You'll only regret selling, one day.

If you don't need the money or the garage space I'd recommend leaving it gathering dust. You only need look at Supra prices here and then compare it to the US or Scandinavian countries to work out UK prices are cheap but firming nicely.

Just seen someone talking elsewhere about their fresh Supra import with 40,000 miles. I don't know. I struggle to see how a 20 year old car gets the 40k allocation especially on an import which usually comes with absolutely no service history or something completely Japanese that you'd need a access to a code breaker to decipher. My own import which landed as a little under 2 year old in 1998 had 18,000 miles under its tyres. I must own the only Supra that ever got driven in Japan. Leaves me thinking that's unlikely so I'd take any 40k mile claim with a wheel barrow load of salt and on a 20 year old car does the mileage really matter anyway?

Try an ECU reset. Doesn't cost anything beyond a few minutes with a battery disconnect.

A possible source could be http://toxic-automotive.myshopify.com/collections/stealth-led-tail-light-conversions-for-mkiv-toyota-supra/products/single-cob-ring-stealth-mkiv-toyota-supra-led-tail-light-conversion Lots of options on style but for me, its way to much to justify on a set of fancy rear lights. I'd rather put that kind of money to a new set of wheels if I needed them.

Hope it was the new 2k non-isocyanate paint if you were painting outside of a booth and pressurised mask.

That reads like one of those I'm expecting people to waste a lot more of their time than I did writing about nothing in particular. Maybe power spec, colour, transmission, budget, timeframe etc. would give a hint that its a remotely serious enquiry or you'll just have people guessing what tickles your very individual fancy.

Its a fair point, my car is a Japanese import that had 22k miles after two years. I'd take these claims of 20 year Supras and 60k miles for fresh jap imports with a skip load of salt. J Spec TT6's are running around £12k now and UK ones tend to be more like £15k on higher, probably more genuine, mileage. Just as well I've kept all 16 MOT certificates for my car!

Reads like a tired battery to me. Are you sure its not the battery or bad contacts imitating a bad battery?

Its outside number 39 if that helps. Maybe you can zoom into the number 6 on the lamppost. Might have a borough reference? Or the doggy don't poo here notice.

Just added to my growing garage with my first import, as in the first import I'm arranging as my Supra is a Japanese import. Filling up with classics following placing the Supra this year on classic car insurance. This is the third classic I've purchased in the last year having just purchased an 'A' code '65 Mustang Fastback from a dealer in the Mid-West which should be shipping next week and be here by the end of September. It sounds good on the video upload with its V8 289 cubic engine lumping away. It'll be my first V8 after a long line of 4's and 6's. When its here I'll take and post a pic of the two fastbacks together, the Ford and the Toyota. I've promise my wife that this 7th car on the property will definitely be the last I'm buying, for a while at least.

The plugs are different. OBD2 didn't start to become standard fit until the late 90's after being introduced in the mid 90's.

The cam belt could have failed. Best hope beyond hope that's not the case though.

Check the timing isn't miles out so its looking to bang in all the wrong places.

If you haven't got anything specific to hand and you have a can of Brasso sitting in your cupboard then this is an excellent cutting compound to use on plastic headlights. Followed by a normal polish buff afterwards.

There is a low pressure cut off to prevent the suction side pulling a vacuum which would potentially allow air and moisture to enter the system. A system at standstill on a normal day will have a static pressure of around 70psi. The compressor will suck this down to around 17psi on the inlet on a charged system. If the gas level is low then this can fall below 0 psi and the LP cut off will activate. So, I'd suggest check your sight glass in the few seconds the compressor runs. No liquid - you should see bubbles in the liquid - then chances are the system needs a top up.

My car must be exceptional. I spent more on a cam belt failing heads repair on a 4 year old Audi A6 (Audi only warranty the part for 2 years in spite of a 6 year service tag) than I've spent maintaining my Supra over 17 years. Its always been uber reliable, I figured like they all are.

I just painted mine today. At 18 years old it has a couple of small cracks but pretty sound. There is a row of screws along the lip of the bumper and a couple of bolts on the guard that I could see. Didn't notice any at the front of the tank area. The front protector is also prone to rust. New the parts are £260 for the full tank protector and £27 for the small shield that sits to the front o/s of the tank. I ordered the small protector today as the present one is flapping in the wind having rusted around one of the two bolt holes. If you are doing the full tank protector its worth checking out the condition of the smaller protector at the same time.

I don't know. The 4 dents on the roof would put me off even if the £8k tag on an auto didn't.