rider

Obtain all remote transmitters for this vehicle. 1. Insert key into ignition and turn ignition switch to ON position. 2. Locate the ECU (Engine Control Unit) and press and hold the ECU PROGRAMMING button for 3 seconds. The ECU will be located under one of the front two seats, the trunk, or under the dashboard on the drivers' side. You will need a small pointy object like a pen to depress the ECU button. After pressing the ECU button for three seconds, you will see the STATUS MONITOR LED turn on for 5 seconds. Vehicle is now in programming mode. 3. Press and release either the top or bottom button on the remote (If you purchased a four button duplicate remote simply press the lock or unlock button since the other two buttons will not be used). The STATUS MONITOR LED will turn off. A chirp will be heard as well as one flash of the exterior lights. 4. Turn off the ignition. Programming is now complete, test remotes for proper programming. You need to ensure the fob is at the correct frequency which for European cars post 1996 is 433MHz. A USA sourced fob will likely be 315MHz. I downloaded these instructions a while back to programme a second remote but an OEM one never came up on eBay at a price I could justify. So, if you try it and it works let us all know. PS - the ECU is under the front seat...............

That's way too much oil for stem seals. Likely Turbo seal or broken ring.

I find if you leave turning the lights on for a few second after starting the car I don't have the failure to ignite problem whereas, it can occur if the lights are switched on right after starting. So, I'm assuming it takes the Ballast a second or two to hit charge after a big hit on the battery starting. Just try delaying the switch on after car ignition to see if that helps.

Its not really a void, the spare wheel is supposed to be there. There was air suspension fitted to my Mustang that I've returned to gas. Once the compressor or air lines fail then you just end up tyre rubbing and causing arch damage.

Anyone used the RP Synchromax in their V160 or 161 boxes? Its about a third of the price of 'Toyota' oil which is said to be bog standard ATF.

Tyre Trader has them listed for £67.82 a unit which is firmly in the cheaper end for that amount of rubber and all the usual Bridgestone, Michelin or Continental suspects run at around £130 a tyre. Cheaper is usually referred to as budget in the car World. It would be both useful and interesting to know if any members have good or indeed bad experience from using these tyres as I doubt many would normally consider using the cheaper brands. Nankang has a good following as one of the better budgets. Maybe we are all missing out on a good tyre and money saving opportunity that Nankang offers and if others can share their positive experience with these tyres, it should help your sale potential no end.

Aside from hacksawing one of the three locating lugs the fit is a simple process of plugging in. You have units with built in ballast so you don't even need a second box to plug into. Takes about 20 minutes to fit even with the sawing and I've only ever had one HID bulb blow in years. Lots brighter too, running on HIDs is like running on full beam halogens without blinding oncoming traffic. 6000K is white as far as my lights look anyway, 8000K is heading to chavvy blue but I kept to that on one of my cars as it came with those fitted. Anything less than 6000K is beginning to look French as it tends towards yellow.

Just as a sideline, does anyone normally fit budget tyres to their Supra?

You can't get the JSpec bulbs which have a different 3 locating lug pattern so all I did was get the standard HB bulb and hacksaw off one of the three tabs. Bulb fits and holds in position fine with the two remaining tabs. Its easy to figure out which one doesn't align and needs cutting off. For the benefit of the OP ballast is required and 6000K gives a good white light. Go 8000K and its starting to get blue. I have some cars on 6000K and some on 8000K without any issues on colour.

Good to read people are still getting their Supras out for every day driving. Maybe I just need to leave Kate alone and go tug on my 6 speed more often than I do. I just know these cars are going to be worth lots of money and it seems an indulgence to wear it out all on my own.

You can negotiate with the insurers to retain the car for the offered pay-out less the salvage value. It's up to the insurer though as they have effectively purchased the car for its determined pre-accident value. You also need to consider if the insurers will register it as an insurance write off which doesn't matter if the intention is only to retain it for parts but will affect the cars value if its being retained to be repaired and put back on the road. I'd only consider offering to buy this damaged car from the insurance company if its worth a lot more in parts than the salvage price they are prepared to accept. This car has a rear wheel pushed quite a way forward so assuming the axle drive shaft hasn't just snapped at the hub it probably means a twisted or broken sub frame which in turn could mean a twisted body. This car looks like it has terminal panel damage even before looking at any structural damage.

You don't always get that option under Comprehensive insurance.

When I bought my Supra TT in 1998 it was my daily driver racking up 12,000 miles a year and I had great fun, particularly when limiter riding M3 blitzing on the Autobahn. Now it only comes out occasionally and I don't do even manage 1,000 miles between MOTs. There are only 140 Mk 4 turbo cars left in the UK according to the how many left site which ranks them pretty rare and original manual cars even rarer. Does anyone still get to drive their Supra's or are they all just becoming garage ornaments or track day toys?

I'd assume with that amount of damage its off to the great scrap heap in the sky.

White tyre names can look cool. I think they look good on one of my cars. It does require a reasonable thickness of tyre wall though, I wouldn't try it on a 40 profile tyre.

Not sure cheaper insurance stands these days. My non-UK original is £220 on classic car insurance. Substantially less if I had it as my main driver.

I found once I'd wire brushed off an old lifted waxoyl coating that the rear sub frame was the most rusted part of the car. It's quite pitted in parts. Gave it a good dose of Aquasteel rust convertor followed by a thick coat of zinc etch primer and two coats of matt black paint. Decided not to re-wax. Not as surgical as your tackling but as good as I could get it with everything in situ. It should keep the rust bug largely at bay and I'll just check it over once a year now I have a lift to hand. Seeing these cars are now 20 year old relics people need to be on top of what's happening underneath.

Is £12k on the money for a 94 TT6 with a Getrag gearbox issue as these things are expensive to buy or repair and also with paint needed? If it sells please post sold as I'd really need to revisit my agreed value insurance level ahead of renewal. Good luck with the sale.

I was planning on a scissor lift but the ground works would have to be extensive to get it sunk to floor level. Also cheap scissors suffer a lot of failures at the pivot points due to not raised sufficiently before engaging the load (there is an HSE report online). The 2 post supplier turned up to survey the site, drilled a pilot hole that found the floor was 7 inch concrete and then sent his team over a few days later who just bolted straight onto the pre existing floor in 2 hours. You can get far better access to the underneath using a 2 post than you ever will from a scissor or 4 post. I'd look to hire a local garage lift if there isn't the required head room in your own buildings. Unless you are short or don't mind crawling around under a mid-rise lift.

I have a good commercial steam cleaner for my plant equipment and cars and may well give it a blast once I've got the prepped parts painted up to see if anything else comes to light. Only thing holding me back is there is no water drainage where the ramp is sited so it'd be a very wet floor. Maybe I'm just being lazy but I'd never go as far as seeking that new look underneath on a 19 year old car, not possible where I live with permanent mud and cow excrement on the roads.

Having bought myself a 2 post lift the first car on it is my Supra. Gratifyingly solid for its age still leaves some preventative measures that without getting up close and personal you'd never see for yourself. A main area for surface rust has been just in front of the rear wheels on the pinch seam and sill. Wire brushed and treated ready from zinc primer and paint. The brake lines look like new except for one area that isn't quite protected by the exhaust heat shield. All the lines have lost their coating protection for a length of around 10cm and are heavily rusted. I'm not doing anything with these as the plan is to swap all lines out for Copper next spring and also fit new flexible hoses at the wheels. Above the rear diff, the boot floor has some very minor rust pitting. That'll be treated, primed and painted. I decided I've got too old now to be rolling around garage floors and having a full height lift as well as giving a new angle on the cars makes inspection a whole lot easier and almost enjoyable. I'd recommend that anyone who has the space and hasn't got one, gets one (£2,000 fitted, 4T) or looks to hire some ramp time from a local garage. I had negotiated £35 a day with my local garage but in the end decided to simply buy one that I can use anytime.

Being a 1993 with cloth seats, if it gets £13k I'm going to have to revisit my agreed value insurance level. Hopefully the OP will post the sale price as that's always useful information for others setting their insurance valuation.

I almost went to the classic car show but didn't quite manage to get there in the end. I don't think the Supra Mk4 quite fits in that environment. Opposite the Imp stand it looks too modern by comparison and its Japanese which probably doesn't fit into the classic classics bracket. As for the condition of the cars it is always more interesting to talk with owners who have taken a car and brought it up to their standard whatever that happens to be and use it rather than parked in a garage protected from specs of dust. The best long chat I ever had with a classic car owner was someone with his series 2 Land Rover that his dad bought new and had been in the family for 50 years. Not a show car by any means but it had a family name, been pictured in many interesting settings and had a host of good stories. That's when you know a man and his machine are in perfect harmony and the machine gives the greatest joy to its owner.

I indulged in having a 2 post car lift installed earlier in the month and used it for the first time today. Having spent the morning clearing the way to the lift my plan was to get the Supra up on it and spend a few weeks fettling underneath. Giving it a good clean. Taking care of the surface rust, treating it and then giving it plenty of coats of zinc primer and black paint. Lifted the car up and the only rust I could find is on the wishbone arms. Thats going to take me maybe half an hour to wire brush down. The car is looking really solid underneath. I'm really pleased in one way but a bit disappointed in another as my Winter project has ended before its even started. There are no oil leaks, no rust absolutely nothing to do.

Two out of the three locating lugs do fit so all you need to do is cut off the third one and all is well. Make sure you buy ballast with the HID.