rider

The last thing you should do is just leave it. Get it up on a ramp preferably or axel stand and give it a good go with a wire brush and rust convertor. Then zinc prime and paint. I wouldn't recommend underseal on top of what has been rust as that'll just hide its return making it worse next time around to tackle the rust.

Trees and cars. Or is it drivers into trees with their cars? With the glass intact there shouldn't be any roof rippling which would be bad news so it should be a straightforward fix. I doubt repairs would come close to a realistic insured value.

I'd recommend people look to LV for quotes. Top the lists for customer satisfaction and seem to be passing out some keen quotes at the moment.

Just completed my renewal, one year on: Quotes: £18,000 agreed value (up £6k on last year) Hegerty £311 (2,000 miles) Equity Red Star £263 (2,000 miles) LV Classic Car £237 (5,000 miles) Footman - sent email but never responded Decided to go with the LV quote.

I always checked the car mileage when it was valet parked at hotels. When it was a nearly new car the parking attendant at the Ramada in Reading was salivating over it. I said to him he could take it for a spin if he had time on his way around to the parking garage. The garage was 250 yards away, the car did 37 miles. Its only a car after all.

When you get to a near 20 year old car I think a lot of the value comes down to its history and its underneath. Maybe that's just me being hopeful though as I have 18 years with my Supra so I know everything, pretty much, that has ever been done to it. Know its had every oil change, every belt change and 18 years of pampering. To me that's worth a lot and I'd reflect that in any sales price.

Its great you can now check MOT and tax status online at Government sites and I used this to check some of my and my fathers old cars going back as far as the 60's. All now gone off database including a couple that would have been quite valuable today in my former 3.0S Capri and 2.8i Special Capri; especially the 3.0S they are fetching strong money these days. Leaves you wondering how many limped to the scrapper shagged out or were written off following accident damage. Some endings are more deserved than others though, thinking back to my hand me down Allegro and my first car, a 47bhp 1250cc Hillman Avenger.

Just got a discounted quote from Toyota for a rear wheel bearing, not the kit just the bearing, £265. That did include postage and VAT. Decided to buy one, as a bearing kit, off eBay for £59.

They are definitely 7j's. Maybe they are MR2 wheels and not Supra as sold to me. I'll just do an all round set of the 8j's seeing I don't have any 9j wheels and put 225's on the front and 245's on the rear.

I did read somewhere that the Supra wheels came as 7j, 8j or 9j. I assumed the wider 9j was an option rather than standard fitment. Couldn't find anywhere that mentioned if the wheels were all one size or if they was staggered to wider rears. There is a set for sale in the US that is 4 X 8j's.

I have searched but can't find this info anywhere. I recently purchased a job lot of throw away stock 16" wheels and note they are mixed 7J and 8J wheels. I have enough 8j's to make a set or could go 2 and 2. Can someone confirm if the original fitment came with staggered wheels, 7J front and 8J rears? It would make sense but don't want to get to the expense of refurbing 2 of each wheel size if that isn't factory correct. As for tyre sizes these would suit 205/50 and 225/45 respectively, similarly were these the original tyre sizes?

I've never seen claims for 700bhp out of a GT28 before. Didn't think it went to that kind of power. Maybe those who know this turbo inside out can confirm if 700bhp is possible. The seller is listed as Irish so you'd be dealing in Euros. I'd stick to someone selling a car off here if you want to go big bhp. At least then there is likely to be a history behind the build and the car and importantly, the seller to.

In case anyone is needing to stock up on the slippy stuff, Opie have a 15% 'EASTER' discount code running till the end of the month.

The switching on and off would reset the traction control so that's all it probably needed.

If your system was stood at 0psi you definitely have a leak somewhere. You can add a dye to the low pressure port inlet and use a uv lamp to see if you can track down the leak. If you are fortunate it'll be from a union that just needs tightening or an new sealing olive fitted. If you are unlucky it'll be the condenser or the evaporator. It's much more likely to be a holed condenser as that is at the front and liable to get road debris thrown at it. You may have a small leak or you could have a big leak. I had a BMW that I could top up twice a year and maintain a leaky system. My Supra with a holed condenser would only run on charge for a few days so ended up costing almost £1,000 to get a garage replaced condenser supplied and fitted. There are also system sealers you can use but I'm no fan of those, figuring they are like the egg white in the radiator or sawdust in the axle kind of short term bodge. PS - Should add for anyone handling refrigerant for the first time it is a refrigerant for a reason. Contact with the liquid form can cause severe chill burns so goggles and gloves are a must.

All oils that carry the same API/SAE OEM specs can be mixed. The only potential issue comes with effects on seals of moving between base oils with diesters tending to swell materials more than mineral oils or PAO based oils. Its highly unlikely you'd ever have a problem but good practice is to top off with the same oil that is in the sump. Easy on a Supra as the engine takes 6 litres so long as you buy 5l at a time there will be 4l available for top up. Though, I've never even topped up my Supra once in 18 years.

Indicator bulbs

You'll probably find that your compressor isn't starting up because the low pressure cut off is activating. First thing you need to check is that you actually have refrigerant in your system. You can buy pressure gauges and snap on valve couplings off eBay for around £50 or get a garage that specialises in a/c work to test if for you. If you have under 15psi the compressor wont start up, the system should be stood at around 50 - 70psi dependent on the ambient temperature. If you find you are out of gas then you need to have a vacuum test to check for leaks. If you are down to around the cut off pressure it may just need a top up. They recon you should think of losing around 10% of the charge a year just through hoses even though they are barrier (plastic lined) hoses. You can buy R134a cylinders online or get a garage to do it all for you. If you are filling refrigerant yourself always fill off the gas rather than liquid valve (if you feed in liquid refrigerant its certainly quicker but you risk a hydraulic lock in the compressor) into the inlet suction side (the service port with the 'L' on the cap - low pressure) . You wont be able to fill up the system until the compressor kicks in as that will effectively suck in refrigerant from the gas cylinder but you will get above the cut off pressure, sufficient to get the compressor up and running. Once you get to 20psi with the compressor running you should see liquid in the sight glass by the radiator. When this runs clear liquid (no bubble stream) you'll be just about right on for the correct charge. You can weigh in the gas but you need vacuum equipment to do that properly to start off from zero. If you have no gas then it is probably a holed condenser that's your problem. Which is a bummer as the front of the car has to come off to get to that so it's not a quick fix. Best hope you are just running below the clutch cut off pressure. PS - Don't force run the compressor without a charge. They have a low pressure cut off for a reason. You don't want to risk sucking in humid air from outside of the system and the refrigerant carries soluble lubricant around the system and to the compressor. a/c systems have a low pressure cut off because without it, you run the risk of pulling a vacuum on the inlet side of the compressor on a low charge system. Regard it as a safety indicator that you need to top off your system rather than something has gone wrong.

I recall my first 6 cylinder car was purchased when I was 19. It was a 3.0S Capri. The quotes you have aren't bad. I'd definitely avoid any black box policies though as they do have instant cancellation clauses which will cramp your freedom on a TT Supra. Admiral were always my go to insurer when I was a youngster.

Engine flush was when I was in the oil formulating business is essentially a mix of white spirit and oil. Its important you don't rev an engine or go for a drive with the flush oil as its really thinned down by the white spirit. A couple of minutes on tick over will grab most of the removable varnish and grime. Its good practice to do an engine oil flush afterwards so your final fill will be undiluted engine oil. From memory, the formulation was 30% white spirit in base oil with some anti wear additive. If I was ever going to do a flush on my own car I'd probably go for 20% spirit to engine oil. It has to be said though, you should never use engine flush unless you have a problem with emulsion, varnish or sludge to get rid of. Flush oil, only if you must and use with extreme care!

I'm usually the first to say the cars are overpriced and this one is, but not by much. You just have to see how few 6 speed Supras are available to know that any seller is going to be looking for top price. Things that I don't like is the cloth seats and tacky body kit so it wouldn't be a car I'd ever consider. I just like boring stock though because it looks good and its where value, as in what its worth, will be maximised going forward. Ad says deposit taken so they must have got somewhere around that price, I'd rec it'll be a £17,500 sale with mats and a polish thrown in.

Esters are pretty much all water clear with some diesters having at most a very light brown tinge. The colour is predominantly from the additive package. The detergents are very dark brown and the overbased additive (carbonates to neutralise by products of combustion) are jet black. These are where the oil colouration comes from and the more additive added to the base oil then the darker the oil will be. Additive packages are supplied by many companies all to meet a specific engine maker or industry specification. So differences are probably arising when an oil company, Fuchs in this instance, switch between approved additive package suppliers.

Not sure I'd want to buy discs, shoes or pads from eBay. too many Chinese parts which may or may not be any good. These are cheap enough! http://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/toyota-supra-30-twin-turbo-import-19932000-ebc-rear--standard-brake-discs-d782_p23563705.htm

There are as many against Waxoyl as there are fans of the stuff. Its rigidity is seen as its Achilles heel as it is prone to cracking and then trapping water under a lifting seal. I now prefer to spray tacky grease inhibitors over Waxoyl.