rider

Maybe you could just try cleaning them up seeing you'd be taking the lenses out to replace them anyway. A mechanical rub with Brasso followed by a mechanical polish using a good car wax will restore plastic lenses to near new condition.

This is crazy. When I purchased a car from the USA the money was transferred to a ForEx company and there instantly, they transferred it to the US customer, there instantly. From start to finish took about 30 minutes. Anyone who cannot transfer money properly doesn't deserve to drive a Supra.

That must have been an airborne spin to cause that much damage to the support pillars on the roof. Amazing what can happen at 30mph.

Here is a link to a thread I wrote on my Mustang import from the USA that includes everything paperwork wise at the end of the thread. http://www.mocgb.net/forums/showthread.php?70186-New-65-Fastback-Just-Imported/page2 Actually, there are very few boxes you MUST fill out on the V55.

My ceramics are running well with 110,000 miles of spinning away happily. It probably just comes down to how often the oil has been changed as my car has been tweaked to 335bhp at the drive wheels so they are probably a tad over boosted. These turbos seem to go on and on if treated to good oil, having said that I'm thinking of going hybrid when they do fail.

The reason I've been putting off tackling the struts is that its described as a pig of a job, with seats out, panel off to get access to the retaining nuts. A US forum gives the procedure as: There are 2 bolts on either side of the hatch and 2 nuts on each side where the strut end connects to the body. You'll need to either remove that panel or gently pry it open to get a ratchet in there. How to do, first take the rear seats out, then take the side trunk plastic panels and rear side speaker panels out, then the rear side window panels out, that should give you access to that mounting area. make sure you dont pull too hard on the panels which means, there a bolt there somewhere. this job should take 2~3 hrs if you know your way around the car or 3~5 hrs if your new at it.... it a bitch, I know... There is another remedy that is often employed and that is to bend the rod back toward the tailgate. This has been reported as a semi-permanent fix to degassed struts. Lastly, I did contact SGS Engineering Solutions who do struts. For about £80 plus shipping they will refurbish or exchange your struts. Then need to recover the fixings. The tailgate is one big piece of metal though and the thought of changing both struts without even one strut providing assistance holding it up was too much. Maybe I'll just go bent rod?

If you find anyone selling them at a reasonable price for the pair let me know please. I'm bored with having the tailgate bounce off my head when a breeze happens to go past.

I have an Audi in Audi brilliant black that really does give a great black, I have a L200 that is also black but nowhere near as vibrant as the Audi. Still prefer my Supra brilliant white though.

Its got to be the rubbers need changing again, assuming you did the full set last time and not just the bottom one then you'll know the essential step to get the channel rubbers off. If you didn't change the channel rubbers last time then that'll likely be why the tailgate is rubbing.

I've had my car since '98 and I still love it. Drives great, looks great in its original paint and still puts a smile on my face. Maybe you just need to upgrade to a TT6?

As a Cat D non stock car its got to be a breaker. Maybe Keron would be best to give you a price if you don't want to do the strip down and parcelling up yourself.

Sounds like its acting as a heat pump. That would only usually occur if the refrigerant flow is reversed as the pressure drop on the suction side of the compressor the other side of a capillary or valve is where the liquid refrigerant boils and cools. Does it have a winter heat pump setting on it?

The compressor will cycle not on its own accord but when the pressure within the system attains a certain level. I don't know the specific settings to the Supra but the high pressure cycle on R134a in car air conditioning will be shut off on the compressor around 220psi and then come back on about 170psi if cooling is still required. At a steady state, off, it'll stabilise around 50 - 70psi across the system dependent on the ambient conditions on a properly charged system. The compressor starting and stopping is what it does and is supposed to do.

The last thing you should do is just leave it. Get it up on a ramp preferably or axel stand and give it a good go with a wire brush and rust convertor. Then zinc prime and paint. I wouldn't recommend underseal on top of what has been rust as that'll just hide its return making it worse next time around to tackle the rust.

Trees and cars. Or is it drivers into trees with their cars? With the glass intact there shouldn't be any roof rippling which would be bad news so it should be a straightforward fix. I doubt repairs would come close to a realistic insured value.

I'd recommend people look to LV for quotes. Top the lists for customer satisfaction and seem to be passing out some keen quotes at the moment.

Just completed my renewal, one year on: Quotes: £18,000 agreed value (up £6k on last year) Hegerty £311 (2,000 miles) Equity Red Star £263 (2,000 miles) LV Classic Car £237 (5,000 miles) Footman - sent email but never responded Decided to go with the LV quote.

I always checked the car mileage when it was valet parked at hotels. When it was a nearly new car the parking attendant at the Ramada in Reading was salivating over it. I said to him he could take it for a spin if he had time on his way around to the parking garage. The garage was 250 yards away, the car did 37 miles. Its only a car after all.

When you get to a near 20 year old car I think a lot of the value comes down to its history and its underneath. Maybe that's just me being hopeful though as I have 18 years with my Supra so I know everything, pretty much, that has ever been done to it. Know its had every oil change, every belt change and 18 years of pampering. To me that's worth a lot and I'd reflect that in any sales price.

Its great you can now check MOT and tax status online at Government sites and I used this to check some of my and my fathers old cars going back as far as the 60's. All now gone off database including a couple that would have been quite valuable today in my former 3.0S Capri and 2.8i Special Capri; especially the 3.0S they are fetching strong money these days. Leaves you wondering how many limped to the scrapper shagged out or were written off following accident damage. Some endings are more deserved than others though, thinking back to my hand me down Allegro and my first car, a 47bhp 1250cc Hillman Avenger.

Just got a discounted quote from Toyota for a rear wheel bearing, not the kit just the bearing, £265. That did include postage and VAT. Decided to buy one, as a bearing kit, off eBay for £59.

They are definitely 7j's. Maybe they are MR2 wheels and not Supra as sold to me. I'll just do an all round set of the 8j's seeing I don't have any 9j wheels and put 225's on the front and 245's on the rear.

I did read somewhere that the Supra wheels came as 7j, 8j or 9j. I assumed the wider 9j was an option rather than standard fitment. Couldn't find anywhere that mentioned if the wheels were all one size or if they was staggered to wider rears. There is a set for sale in the US that is 4 X 8j's.