rider

You did mention no codes but did you check the a/c for codes or the vehicle? http://www.jack-frost.co.uk/toyota_supra_air_con.html Your issues would suggest a 6 7 or 8 error code

I bought a Peugeot with a leaky heater matrix once. Nasty big bill to sort that out. Its a fairly good reason to sell a car on.

Your sight glass is showing the a/c system is working just fine. The compressor is compressing and the condenser is condensing. Worth a read and where I think your problem likely lies. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-ambient-temperature-sensor-switch and this https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-evaporator-temperature-sensor-switch

I know where you are coming from, in the 90's I was hopping in and out of the Supra. Now almost 20 year later its looking before I park up to make sure that I can open the car wide enough to get out and should I roll out or crawl out. Some things age better than others and Supras tend to age better than their owners.

As would liquid nitrogen if you sloshed it around. Refrigerant only cools when it changes from liquid to gas and takes energy (heat) from its environment. That's how the evaporator on an a/c system works after all. So removing refrigerant in its gaseous state from a standing system would be unlikely to generate any cooling.

Just a curiosity. Are clear headlight lenses legal? Lenses have diffusers for a reason.

You only have to look at prices in the USA to know where Supra prices are going to head once the market opens up there for imports as drivers or donor cars. The £50k stock Supra TT6 is not far off. Having owned my Supra for over 18 years my definition of far might be longer than others making everything relative.

The guy who invented CFCs demonstrated how inert they were by drinking the stuff. HFC's, such as R134a is similarly inert so it be an issue breathing it in the same way it would be to breath carbon dioxide or nitrogen. As for the OP issues you need to get some gauges on your service ports to check the pressures are good and true. With everything off you should have a pressure across the system of around 50 to 70 psi (ambient dependent). Then with the compressor running you should be pushing out around 200 to 220 psi out of the compressor on the high pressure side and around 15 psi on the suction low pressure side. If the pressures are fine then the system should be running fine so I'd suspect your temperature sensor/control. Does your control do hot/cold without a/c on? The sight glass is fine. It should be clear on standing (no liquid) and foam when the compressor starts up and run clear after around 30 seconds running. So I'd veer towards your temperature control failing.

I would have though that being an Auto to Manual TT conversion, that'd affect the price which would make £20k steep when original TT6's are more in the £15k to £18k range. So by my reckoning it'd be more suited as a break up car to maximise the money. If I was looking to maximise the return as an investment I'd value this at mid v160/161 Auto to Manual range which is no more than £15k because its so far from stock. £20k is nudging into lower single territory for anyone who wants a modded car. Just an opinion, nothing more nothing less.

Has anyone ever bought anything from these guys, particularly with regard to their seat leather and gear knobs. Look the business and pricing seems good compared to OEM. May be suited to group buys if the quality is right? http://www.interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/products/8

Anyone know anything about this outfit in Aylesbury who claim to be all things V160/161? Item number 282115502785

If you are selling any I'd be more than happy to take as many as you have at £300 a time. With most Supras now only doing 50 to 1000 miles a year the boxes should be good for another 1,000 years.

The refrigerant top ups will contain around 10% oil. The refrigerant cylinders are 100% refrigerant. You usually only need to top up the oil if you have had a major leak. The gas will escape from a system naturally via permeation thorough the hoses. Oil loss will only usually be down to when a hose or union fails. As a rule of thumb though it not a problem overcharging a system with oil unless you seriously overcharge as excess oil will only affect the heat transfer properties of the evaporator reducing efficiency, not the well being of the compressor in normal running.

Try adding some PAG air con oil into the suction side of the compressor. You can do this with a refrigerant charge as the service cans should be an oil/refrigerant mix. You may just be low on oil on start up as the oil can collect in the evaporator and in a low oil situation there may not be much left in the compressor at start up. Dependant upon the compressor it'll be a PAG 46 or a PAG 68 or a PAG 220 oil. Most are PAG 46.

Just say -- SOLD - to myself

The Supra 6 sp appreciated a cool 30% over a 12 month period. I can't see it doing the same again this year but a good TT6 will be £50k before too long. You only have to look at the World prices and the lack of cars for sale. That's why I've been ferreting around to get stock items like road wheels etc. When the Supra is worth £50k the Scooby will be knackered, they aren't built anywhere near as well as a Supra.

Bearing in mind the Germans have just seen a 10% appreciation in the Euro against the £ and its not a steep price anyway I wouldn't take a nearly asking price offer on it. If you can get the full why not ship it off to Germany? They will probably ship it off to Sweden anyway. If it were me though, I'd keep it. Sort out the tailgate and keep it.

I suggest you go for the Datsun. £15K is very bottom end for a TT6 these days.

Suddenly I think my car must be worth £25k as a fantastic TT6 in its original white livery without the issues. Or, this is a sales thread that died.

If your radiator is getting warm then there is no point changing the thermostat in a getting too hot scenario. The engine normal temperature is usually in the 85C to 95C range and the cap (if working at normally around 13lb pressure) will raise the boiling point to around 113C. Which is why boiling sound in the engine area is either air trapped in your heater matrix or more usually just a faulty rad cap.

I'd recommend you copy all the current ads and send them over to the insurer with a brief write up of your own car history and a set of up to date photos. If they ask for a third party valuation then there are restoration companies dotted all over the country who could be approached to do that for you. I have a mate in the classic car trade who told me I had one of my cars majorly undervalued so I called up the insurer (Hegerty) and they were more than happy to take the new value and an increased premium that went along with it. Any decent insurer will work with you on things like the agreed valuation.

I did the same with LV and they just confirmed nothing had been altered on the policy, which I took to assume the value I set (at £18k) had been agreed. I did email them back to ask for confirmation on their rather vague acknowledgement email and I never did get a response to that. Who knows what insurance companies think?

If you want to get the females swooning I find my MGB roadster has them all weak kneed.