rider

Anyone know anything about this outfit in Aylesbury who claim to be all things V160/161? Item number 282115502785

If you are selling any I'd be more than happy to take as many as you have at £300 a time. With most Supras now only doing 50 to 1000 miles a year the boxes should be good for another 1,000 years.

The refrigerant top ups will contain around 10% oil. The refrigerant cylinders are 100% refrigerant. You usually only need to top up the oil if you have had a major leak. The gas will escape from a system naturally via permeation thorough the hoses. Oil loss will only usually be down to when a hose or union fails. As a rule of thumb though it not a problem overcharging a system with oil unless you seriously overcharge as excess oil will only affect the heat transfer properties of the evaporator reducing efficiency, not the well being of the compressor in normal running.

Try adding some PAG air con oil into the suction side of the compressor. You can do this with a refrigerant charge as the service cans should be an oil/refrigerant mix. You may just be low on oil on start up as the oil can collect in the evaporator and in a low oil situation there may not be much left in the compressor at start up. Dependant upon the compressor it'll be a PAG 46 or a PAG 68 or a PAG 220 oil. Most are PAG 46.

Just say -- SOLD - to myself

The Supra 6 sp appreciated a cool 30% over a 12 month period. I can't see it doing the same again this year but a good TT6 will be £50k before too long. You only have to look at the World prices and the lack of cars for sale. That's why I've been ferreting around to get stock items like road wheels etc. When the Supra is worth £50k the Scooby will be knackered, they aren't built anywhere near as well as a Supra.

Bearing in mind the Germans have just seen a 10% appreciation in the Euro against the £ and its not a steep price anyway I wouldn't take a nearly asking price offer on it. If you can get the full why not ship it off to Germany? They will probably ship it off to Sweden anyway. If it were me though, I'd keep it. Sort out the tailgate and keep it.

I suggest you go for the Datsun. £15K is very bottom end for a TT6 these days.

Suddenly I think my car must be worth £25k as a fantastic TT6 in its original white livery without the issues. Or, this is a sales thread that died.

If your radiator is getting warm then there is no point changing the thermostat in a getting too hot scenario. The engine normal temperature is usually in the 85C to 95C range and the cap (if working at normally around 13lb pressure) will raise the boiling point to around 113C. Which is why boiling sound in the engine area is either air trapped in your heater matrix or more usually just a faulty rad cap.

I'd recommend you copy all the current ads and send them over to the insurer with a brief write up of your own car history and a set of up to date photos. If they ask for a third party valuation then there are restoration companies dotted all over the country who could be approached to do that for you. I have a mate in the classic car trade who told me I had one of my cars majorly undervalued so I called up the insurer (Hegerty) and they were more than happy to take the new value and an increased premium that went along with it. Any decent insurer will work with you on things like the agreed valuation.

I did the same with LV and they just confirmed nothing had been altered on the policy, which I took to assume the value I set (at £18k) had been agreed. I did email them back to ask for confirmation on their rather vague acknowledgement email and I never did get a response to that. Who knows what insurance companies think?

If you want to get the females swooning I find my MGB roadster has them all weak kneed.

The lips are like hens teeth, rare and damned hard to get. When I had a badger attack my car at 60mph on the A49 at midnight 7 years ago the front bumper had to be replaced (surprisingly little damage beyond a domed bottom run where the badger has disappeared under the car) and the lip had to come from Japan. Took weeks to get it, and that was 7 years ago.

One thing you'll find with the DVLA is they are on a fast turnaround these days, usually within a week. So long as you have an email copy of the NOVA from HMRC, not just a printout but a formal letter confirming all duty and taxes are paid then you are good to go. Assuming you have a MOT certificate to hand. All you need for the DVLA V55 is the MOT, Certificate of Insurance, Bill of Sale and origin title document. Plus a cheque for the road tax, envelope and stamp.

You may have picked the wrong insurer? When I imported an original Ford Mustang from the USA you always know that there could be issues with the NOVA release. So when I arranged insurance I did so on the understanding that the time limited VIN insurance would have its expiry waived should HMRC not release the NOVA in a timely manner. With me there was no problem, the NOVA arrived within 2 weeks. The insurer I used was Hegerty who did the transit insurance, VIN insurance and then onto the registered vehicle insurance. So, if you haven't talked with your insurer with regard to a flexible waiver on the 2 or 4 week limit, you really should.

According to the 'how many left' website half of Supra's of all vintages are now on SORN. As we are in the middle of the summer then you'd have to assume that the SORN figure is at its seasonal lowest. That's a lot of cars being parked up. It probably in many ways reflect my own ownership over 18 years. Originally the only car running 12k miles a year, now one of many cars pushing a few hundred miles a year. Don't think I'll ever SORN it though as cars tend to survive better if they are driven regularly. If you go back a couple of years ago the SORN ratio was more like 1 in 3.

Are you sure you have the correct filter fitted. If the filter is too short for the housing then the screw stem can seat on the valve preventing flow. Saw that on a MGB once.

It makes a big difference. When I first went looing for a Supra Mk4 in 1998 I had a run out in 5. The one I chose was so much more responsive than the other 4. A different beast entirely. It'd push BMW M3's to the side of the Autobahn acceleration wish between 100 and 150mph. I've absolutely no idea what has been done to my car as all looks original. It even has the cats. I did get around to rolling road testing it in 2008 and it was pushing out 330bhp at the drive wheels so would have been around 380-400bhp at the flywheel. My car has been 100% mechanically reliable even though it's now done 110K miles. Still on the same everything bar the normal service items and a clutch (OEM clutch lasted to 108K miles before it started slipping on hard acceleration). The great thing about bpu is you can have it looking stock which means no issues with insurance. I personally wouldn't go single, but that's only because I'm a lover of cars being pretty much as the manufacturer intended. If I wanted that much more power I'd go GTR.

Brasso is cheaper. Costs around £3 for a bottle.

That shit is expensive, just try some factor 40 suntan lotion instead.

That doesn't sound like a drip to me, its going to probably be the exhaust heat shield cooling ticking away. Its a common enough noise particularly when the shields and system are old.

"heavily curbed (previous owner)" I like you felt the need to add the additional information. Points to one careless previous owner. My car is a '96 still with mostly its original paint that is in great condition which maybe shows the benefit of a base colour over metallic and lacquer for longevity.

£88 is way too cheap for 6l of synthetic oil, filters for oil and air plus a set of tipped plugs. The platinum or iridium plugs alone are usually £7 a pop. Oil around £10/l. It just doesn't work out to the correct parts being quoted.