rider

The quilt door panels and velvet dash will probably not be to everyone's taste. Better market would probably be Sweden.

My back lights on the controller, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Sometimes some work and some don't. Sometimes all work and sometimes none work. So your problem may well not be bulb related but dry joints. Test the old bulbs to see if they are actually blown as you may find they are OK.

Something I never liked doing so I had a two post lift fitted. I'd recommend everyone with the space gets one its a real back crawling on the floor it hurts saver.

I did a 11hrs run from Shrewsbury to Aachen but that did include a 45 minute alternative wheels run on the Channel Tunnel so it could be cheating.

Well, cheap is a relative thing these days with Getrag V160/161 boxes but this USA site has the V160 on sale at the moment. A snip at US$6,779 which is $3k below what some places are pitching at these days. I'm almost tempted myself because with these boxes, who knows where the ceiling is. http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/to6v1getr.html

There are threads on this if you search. Its not just a case of drilling holes there are wiring changes as well to accommodate the sidelights.

The WB SMIC is twice the size of a OEM SMIC so if you are currently running a stock unit then getting it reworked wouldn't come up with the same cooling efficiency as the WB unit.

The good thing about an older single turbo conversion is you know its a quality durable one. I'm wondering whether to buy a second Supra which would be a single to garage alongside my TT6. Just haven't got £23k burning a hole at the moment seeing one daughter was married off last month. Two months ago it might have been one happy daddy and one unhappy daughter.

And this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?210956-How-To-Clean-Idle-Control-Valve-Cleaning-Aka-ICV-(IAC)

This may be worth a read: http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/23/how-to-test-a-2jzge-iac/

Have a look at the idle air control valve. Some recommend soaking it overnight in clean fuel and refitting to see if that cures the problem.

When I changed mine for clear lenses they came out really easily by pushing hard left and lifting out right. Then they are a simple sprung clip snap back. If you are swapping the lenses rather than just changing the bulbs you'll likely want to reuse the gasket as the aftermarket ones are really flimsy compare to the original fit. So don't go prodding screwdrivers in to lift the light units out of the panel or you may well end up damaging the gasket.

I bought a WB SMIC which is a good quality build and, I believe, half the price of the CW SMIC. It was a straight bolt on and the car did seem to respond positively to the upgrade from the 15 year old OEM one with rotten fins that would simply powder if touched. I'm more than happy with the WB one though my credit card did get scammed straight after I purchased from their online Worldpay transaction. I did tell them afterwards to upgrade their SSL. So good product, dodgy transaction which needed a card change and rejection of a Chinese phantom charge.

Can't see the point in locking wheel nuts any more. When was the last time anyone heard of a set of wheels being stolen? The lack of thefts of wheels these days could either be because everyone already has alloy wheels or everyone assumes that every set has locking wheel nuts which if you really wanted to steal are a simple steal by banging an undersized socket on or using a pin socket. I haven't bothered with the things for years and any car that came with them had standard wheel nuts put on to replace the locking nut.

You did mention no codes but did you check the a/c for codes or the vehicle? http://www.jack-frost.co.uk/toyota_supra_air_con.html Your issues would suggest a 6 7 or 8 error code

I bought a Peugeot with a leaky heater matrix once. Nasty big bill to sort that out. Its a fairly good reason to sell a car on.

Your sight glass is showing the a/c system is working just fine. The compressor is compressing and the condenser is condensing. Worth a read and where I think your problem likely lies. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-ambient-temperature-sensor-switch and this https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-evaporator-temperature-sensor-switch

I know where you are coming from, in the 90's I was hopping in and out of the Supra. Now almost 20 year later its looking before I park up to make sure that I can open the car wide enough to get out and should I roll out or crawl out. Some things age better than others and Supras tend to age better than their owners.

As would liquid nitrogen if you sloshed it around. Refrigerant only cools when it changes from liquid to gas and takes energy (heat) from its environment. That's how the evaporator on an a/c system works after all. So removing refrigerant in its gaseous state from a standing system would be unlikely to generate any cooling.

Just a curiosity. Are clear headlight lenses legal? Lenses have diffusers for a reason.

You only have to look at prices in the USA to know where Supra prices are going to head once the market opens up there for imports as drivers or donor cars. The £50k stock Supra TT6 is not far off. Having owned my Supra for over 18 years my definition of far might be longer than others making everything relative.

The guy who invented CFCs demonstrated how inert they were by drinking the stuff. HFC's, such as R134a is similarly inert so it be an issue breathing it in the same way it would be to breath carbon dioxide or nitrogen. As for the OP issues you need to get some gauges on your service ports to check the pressures are good and true. With everything off you should have a pressure across the system of around 50 to 70 psi (ambient dependent). Then with the compressor running you should be pushing out around 200 to 220 psi out of the compressor on the high pressure side and around 15 psi on the suction low pressure side. If the pressures are fine then the system should be running fine so I'd suspect your temperature sensor/control. Does your control do hot/cold without a/c on? The sight glass is fine. It should be clear on standing (no liquid) and foam when the compressor starts up and run clear after around 30 seconds running. So I'd veer towards your temperature control failing.

I would have though that being an Auto to Manual TT conversion, that'd affect the price which would make £20k steep when original TT6's are more in the £15k to £18k range. So by my reckoning it'd be more suited as a break up car to maximise the money. If I was looking to maximise the return as an investment I'd value this at mid v160/161 Auto to Manual range which is no more than £15k because its so far from stock. £20k is nudging into lower single territory for anyone who wants a modded car. Just an opinion, nothing more nothing less.

Has anyone ever bought anything from these guys, particularly with regard to their seat leather and gear knobs. Look the business and pricing seems good compared to OEM. May be suited to group buys if the quality is right? http://www.interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/products/8