rider
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Just asked 3 local suppliers for quotes on a few parts: Inchcape Oxford - 19/9 - Advised too busy to quote, yet Burrows - 19/9 - No response at all to emails W R Davis (Toyota) Shrewsbury - £952.69 collect with 10% discount. Toyota Online Parts (USA) - US$532.66 (£410.14) Delivery - US$83.14 Duty & VAT - £122.29 TOTAL - £596.44 Delivered Makes you want to cry.
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I'd rather a car with original paint and judging from my car 20 year old Supra paint polishes up nicely.
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I'm often amazed by used exhaust offer prices but there is always fresh amazement delivered or not
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Prices are dropping on all performance cars. I'm looking at the moment for additions to my flock of cars and the prices of 'exotic' cars are tumbling or set on too high and not budging. Be it the winter effect or the Brexit effect doesn't matter to me as I tend to collect cars rather than sell them, but it might well be a good time to buy. Thinking of an E46 BMW M3 CS as a possible collectible but the frame cracking problem common with this car is putting me off a bit.
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I had my mid life crisis early, bought my first 6 cylinder at 19 and had 6 or 8 ers ever since in the stable. Now I am entering mid life crisis era I'm thinking of buying a Nissan Leaf.
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Brute force, the plate will naturally break where the hole has been drilled or tapped for the screws as that's where it'll bend. Two shreddies and go!
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Never heard of a market in second hand spark plugs. The tail light sets usually only get around £35 when they appear on eBay auctions as there is a pretty regular supply with lots of people presumably upgrading to the facelift rears so you may not be in bargain territory with the offers.
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When I once had self tappers stuck with no head on a number plate, many years ago, I ripped the old plate off which left the screw heads raised. Flattened opposite sides with a file and used a small spanner which removed them easily. No tidly spanners then a pair of electrical pliers or grips should do nicely.
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it's not glamorous and some say they aren't even needed but I do have a majorly rust eaten backing plate on the offside front brake. The n/s is rusty but sound. So I'm wondering what to do with them the options are: 1. ignore and let them rust away naturally. 2. Replace which is quite an expensive job due to the labour 3. Replace with cut plates so the hub doesn't have to come off which cuts down the labour but clearly has a notch which reduces the protection afforded by the plate. What do people tend to do with these fairly useless bits of tin when they are in need of attention?
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If you need to buy new on this the model number is Nippon Denso 471-1205. New prices are only around £200 which could be a wise investment over buying someone else's 20 year old compressor.
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When I bought my Supra back in 1998 it was my only car and it remained my only car till 2003. Ever since then there have been other cars that have taken the strain of most of the miles. I have more cars these days than you can shake several sets of keyrings at so the Supra only does 1,000 miles a year while we have an Audi A3 diesel that does all the long haul journeys and pretty much all of the day work too for me or the wife. Even thinking of buying an electric car for the local commutes and shop runs.
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The quilt door panels and velvet dash will probably not be to everyone's taste. Better market would probably be Sweden.
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My back lights on the controller, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Sometimes some work and some don't. Sometimes all work and sometimes none work. So your problem may well not be bulb related but dry joints. Test the old bulbs to see if they are actually blown as you may find they are OK.
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Something I never liked doing so I had a two post lift fitted. I'd recommend everyone with the space gets one its a real back crawling on the floor it hurts saver.
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I did a 11hrs run from Shrewsbury to Aachen but that did include a 45 minute alternative wheels run on the Channel Tunnel so it could be cheating.
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Well, cheap is a relative thing these days with Getrag V160/161 boxes but this USA site has the V160 on sale at the moment. A snip at US$6,779 which is $3k below what some places are pitching at these days. I'm almost tempted myself because with these boxes, who knows where the ceiling is. http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/to6v1getr.html
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There are threads on this if you search. Its not just a case of drilling holes there are wiring changes as well to accommodate the sidelights.
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The WB SMIC is twice the size of a OEM SMIC so if you are currently running a stock unit then getting it reworked wouldn't come up with the same cooling efficiency as the WB unit.
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sold 1996 Toyota Supra Facelift non-VVTi 6spd Single Turbo in Red
rider replied to Ian C's topic in Supra Classifieds
The good thing about an older single turbo conversion is you know its a quality durable one. I'm wondering whether to buy a second Supra which would be a single to garage alongside my TT6. Just haven't got £23k burning a hole at the moment seeing one daughter was married off last month. Two months ago it might have been one happy daddy and one unhappy daughter. -
And this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?210956-How-To-Clean-Idle-Control-Valve-Cleaning-Aka-ICV-(IAC)
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This may be worth a read: http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/23/how-to-test-a-2jzge-iac/
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Have a look at the idle air control valve. Some recommend soaking it overnight in clean fuel and refitting to see if that cures the problem.
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When I changed mine for clear lenses they came out really easily by pushing hard left and lifting out right. Then they are a simple sprung clip snap back. If you are swapping the lenses rather than just changing the bulbs you'll likely want to reuse the gasket as the aftermarket ones are really flimsy compare to the original fit. So don't go prodding screwdrivers in to lift the light units out of the panel or you may well end up damaging the gasket.
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I bought a WB SMIC which is a good quality build and, I believe, half the price of the CW SMIC. It was a straight bolt on and the car did seem to respond positively to the upgrade from the 15 year old OEM one with rotten fins that would simply powder if touched. I'm more than happy with the WB one though my credit card did get scammed straight after I purchased from their online Worldpay transaction. I did tell them afterwards to upgrade their SSL. So good product, dodgy transaction which needed a card change and rejection of a Chinese phantom charge.
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Can't see the point in locking wheel nuts any more. When was the last time anyone heard of a set of wheels being stolen? The lack of thefts of wheels these days could either be because everyone already has alloy wheels or everyone assumes that every set has locking wheel nuts which if you really wanted to steal are a simple steal by banging an undersized socket on or using a pin socket. I haven't bothered with the things for years and any car that came with them had standard wheel nuts put on to replace the locking nut.