rider

Women are a truly mystical species. Mine isn't into cars at all but she attended the NEC with me this week and now she wants me to buy a second Supra. I have a Jspec TT6 BPU so would probably have a slight preference to stable it alongside a UK car but that's only a slight preference. The only real requirement is it as near to stock as possible and be an original, out of the factory, TT6 with preferably original VIN plate correct paint. Not really into plastic add on parts or excessive bling. BPU or standard power both OK but nothing higher. Not in a hurry, anytime will do. I have had my current Supra for almost 19 years so I'm looking for any addition really must be an excellent long term ownership prospect. No budget in mind as no two cars are worth the same but not interested in paying a premium either. If anyone has a car available or sees one come up elsewhere I'd appreciate the heads up.

Don't do it - you know blue is a ladies colour

He is considering a near £30k offer made at the NEC Classic Car show yesterday so way beyond the £18k the OP is budgeted to. For anyone thinking of selling their cars I'd recommend taking theirs to the show as there are lots of people looking to buy and making offers. Had three people asking to buy my car and lots others asking if it was for sale. Also had the Toyota GB guys all over it because my one was the closest to stock.

Hi Mark, Just back myself from the show. I'm sure whoever organises the stand next year would love to have one of your UK TT6's on stand, or maybe even both? Try a PM to Ian Ian who started this thread and I'm sure he will sort things as he has organised the NEC event for a while. Everyone will be envious. Barry

That's amazingly cheap for a back to rolling shell respray. I assume it means car delivered to the sprayer everything out and that would still be a very cheap price. Post who the quote is with then if its a good job I'm sure they would get lots more business.

To Ian ---- Couldn't reply to your PM so sent you a new PM with all the personal info. Think that's gone OK, if not let me know.

The wife, she says yes. Plan is I would arrive Thursday afternoon with the car at the same time as everyone else is planning to arrive and she would join me Friday evening late after she has finished work and things. She would be with me all Saturday and head off Sunday early. So if I could slog the stand Friday and Sunday and have good amount of time to walk around on Saturday with the wife as I do have a good number of classic cars anyway and she wouldn't want to be tied to the Supra all day. If that works for everyone bearing in mind Saturday is going to be the busiest foot fall day then we are in. If its all good with everyone else on the stand then I'll PM over my contact details to finalise the arrangements.

Reads like a fun few days and give me an excuse to get the buffer and cleaning kit out on the Supra - I'll pin the wife down as soon as she gets in and have a go or no go from my end over to you later this evening.

I could probably to do it with my White stock looking TT6 if there is still one space as I don't need to ask anyone but the missus and after 18yr ownership would have plenty to tell passers by the thrills of owning an iconic Supra. How far is the hotel from the NEC and what would be the plan for evening entertainment.

I was thinking single but decided 3 years ago long term the cars value will be enhanced by its originality so I'd likely go hybrid twins. Seems I can expect them to fail any day!

I always spray dinitrol 3125 into the sections and crevices where a paint brush or spray paint wont reach.

that's hard to know beyond it has a start and a finish. A bit like Turbos in a car will usually last at least and go as far as. All I know is my pair are still fine at 110k miles, hence the question on other reference points. You have to at least find the string before you can size it up.

No idea, there are no gauges or even adjustable or variable valves that I've seen or found in 18 years of ownership. I'd suspect it is boosted beyond standard as it rolling road tested about 10 years ago with 340bhp at the drive wheels.

I've been thinking what to do with replacing my Japanese spec Turbos when they finally fail but they aren't showing any signs of deteriorating. The car and turbos have covered 112k miles now and I'm used to turbo diesels always giving up after 80k miles. How long do these Supra turbos generally go on for with regular oil changes which used to mean every 9,000 miles but for the last 10 years its more like every 2,000 miles.

Underseal is a nightmare for hiding what isn't best kept hidden. All my cars have underseal on them and as it is coming away I'm treating the surface that has become exposed and then zinc priming, painting (I use matt black spray cans for the underside on all my cars) and finally surface coating. That way, if rust comes back it'll at least be visible. A really excellent (smooth finish) top coat that is really durable (its commonly used on steel stairs so withstands serious footfall) is a Manor coatings product. Great for your wrought iron railings and also your metalwork under the car. https://www.bitec.co.uk/manor-5lt-high-build-garage-industrial-vinyl-semi-matt-black-paint-5-litre.html It doesn't clean off brushes so its a one brush per application kind of coating.

Those prices look really good and well under half what your likely to get from your local friendly Toyota stealer.

Are you certain you have power assisted steering at all? It'd be kind of difficult to tell if you have or haven't once on the move. So, I'm going to guess you have no hydraulic pressure coming out of the pump which could mean you didn't rebuild the pump properly or the non return valve sticking. I'd check the HP line pressure.

With a classic it makes sense to go for one that doesn't attract road tax. I have a fair few old cars and my absolute favourite is the least expensive, a MGB Roadster. You'll squeak one for £4k but for a Mk1 or early Mk2 allow for £6k to get a good one. I've done loads to the one I purchased for £5.5k and now have it agreed value insured for £14k. £70 to insure, £0 to tax and sails through its MOT with no advisories but above all, great fun to drive on a sunny day.

I don't know - I haven't kept up with the alternatives to know if the alternatives are drop in replacements. I do know you cannot top off one refrigerant with another as two refrigerants together do not act like a direct blend, the boiling properties and pressures go somewhere else entirely. It'll also come down to the solubility of the refrigerant in the compressor oil as well, is it even soluble in current PAG oils? if not you will have an emulsion going round your a/c system which will have very poor heat transfer performance in the evaporator. That's bad btw. If its more soluble in the compressor oil it'll thin it down possibly too low for the compressor to function. That's bad btw. you may well need a thicker or thinner oil to reflect a change in the refrigerant viscosity dilution. You really don't need to worry though. Your refrigeration engineer will be more than happy to change whatever needs changing. Alternatively you can buy a can or cylinder of R134a and be sorted for the next few decades. it really is a very simple choice.

I wouldn't necessarily regard legislation incumbent on signatory Nations to the Montreal Protocol as scare mongering.

In the EU r134a was phased out in 2011 for new builds for lower GWP alternatives and it will be phased out completely by 2017 across Europe. The 2021 date is for a ban in new builds in the USA. Refrigerants just die one day. When the OE market goes the chemical companies no longer make the product or they get banned under the Montreal Protocol revisions. There is no requirement to stock fluids and gasses that I am aware as part of the 10 year service and body parts arrangement car manufacturers have. Once a product is banned then no one can legally sell it, there is no actual ban date yet but there will be one assigned at some point unless it is just allowed to fade away as no longer commercially viable to produce. I'd assume most Supra owners now see owning their cars in 10 or 20 years as an option so the non availability of R134a is something that those owners will have to face at some point. http://refrigeranthq.com/when-is-r-134a-being-phased-out/

HFC's were introduced as a low ozone depleting replacement to CFC refrigerants 25 years ago but now it is their turn to be phased out in favour of lower global warming and ozone depleting alternatives. Old CFC 12 air con systems could be retrofitted to HFC 134a with a gas, desiccant and compressor oil change. The gas molecule size was smaller so it was also recommended to change hoses to lower the seepage rate through the hose material. All in all, something that wasn't great for the compressor life and also wasn't cheap. Now, R134a is on the phase out list and it will end it application in new vehicles by 2021. I'd recommend that anyone with a/c cars who is competent working around an a/c system buys themselves a 10kg cylinder some time over the next 4 years, with a set of gauges and charging valves so they will be able to top up their own systems ready for when R134a ceases production and is no longer available. That'll be a much easier and cheaper option to retrofitting to a new refrigerant when a system requires servicing.

The 14051 replaced the part 14050 so you can only get the later one. "Part No. 67293-14050 Part Description CUSHION, BACK DOOR LOWER STOPPER Replaced By 67293-14051"

Nice to see a Supra with the original air box still there. Very rare these days!

Get underneath and tackle any surface rust on the sub frame and floor areas. If you can take the skirts off and check over the sills for rust and treat as necessary. These cars are rusting nicely under all the plastic bits so its shouldn't be a case of out of sight. it'll be rust that'll see the Supra of 10 to 20 years time head off to the scrap heap or very expensive resotration.