rider

I've used SeaFoam SF16 additive in engines. its a low dosage of 25g per litre of oil but it has given some interesting results. One engine that has oil changes every 500 miles due to low annual mileage had some top end varnish that I ran for 200 miles with some SF added and the then drained oil was red; resembled used ATF. Most of the varnish has gone, I'm planning on repeating the treatment at some stage. On another engine that had a sticking valve lifter the oil always drained like new as the car was low annual mileage and has at most 1,000 mile between changes. After 250 miles with the SF added to the engine oil it drained black. I like SF because it appears to dissolves deposits rather than disperse them.

Its a tough one, this think up a number rule. If you have no idea then it is perfectly acceptable, even advisable, to ask in a thread what people recon something is worth ahead of listing it here or anywhere else. Just to guide coil packs, the Denso originals can be had new for around £65 each.

The favourable $ to the £ has made things 15% cheaper than just a few months ago. The UK based Supra, that was already the cheapest in the World, has got itself a whole lot cheaper. I expect for the first time we will see a long decline in the total numbers of Supra's that are UK registered as cars get themselves scrapped or exported and then aren't being replaced with fresh expensive Jap imports. There are 2,500 Mk4 Supras registered in the UK, that is up 300 on where it stood in 2017. Sadly, the ratio with these cars on SORN to taxed is 2:1 in favour of SORN. That ratio was 1:1 three years ago. My car goes onto SORN at the end of this month so I need to grab the keys one last time this year, though it does have a MOT station visit booked in October that it'll be driven to and from.

Another auction of a JDM Supra, this one is for the lovers of plastic. Low guide £20k - £25k for a 6sp single. https://www.classiccarauctions.co.uk/cca033-lot-5073-1993-toyota-supra-6-speed-twin-turbo

It'll be fascinating to see if they are identical or mirrored parts.

Go with LV Classic, Lancaster or Hagerty. They agree the valuation based upon what your write to them about the car and a series of pictures. I moved insurer once to save £30 then they gave notice of halving the agreed value as soon as the cover started, pending a third party valuation report even though the policy was pre-paid 3 week in advance. There is no point saving a few quid to then have to spend out on an approved valuation. The insurer I dealt with, it was either Footman James or Adrian Flux wouldn't even recommend a valuation contact but did insist it'd need to be a valuation source they would approve of, retrospectively. I lost it with them, the insurance lasted 2 days and then I had a cancellation fee thrown in. I find with insurers it all comes down to online reviews (for the insurer, not any broker) and the hoops the put in place to get an agreed value, price might make third on the list. Anything for an easy life is worth a few £.

I did contact them when I was looking a couple of year back, they said no. They tend to go with glass they made for the OEM so presumably have the patterns and presses available. I don't think Pilkington ever supplied Toyota in Japan.

There are curved screen repro companies out there. Wheeler Dealers went and had a Marcos rear screen made but with WD you never actually see the company name. They needed an original to scan so there would be a couple of hurdles to overcome. First up identifying the company, I did try to do that but couldn't. Second up having a screen available to scan. Its not the sort of thing people tend to have one sitting around waiting to be scanned. Third up would be the heater elements that are part of the glass in the Supra, would a repro company be able to embed the filaments? The TV Marcos screen was just plain glass so you wouldn't know unless you talked to the company making the screens. Lastly, could any repro company duplicate the green or blue tint?

LV Classic had a £50k ceiling when I last had the Supra insured with them, probably 3 years ago. I ended up adding the Supra to my then existing multi classic car policy brokered by Hagerty when I departed from LV; I left due to a massive premium jump when the agreed value went over £30k. I've just received my renewal for the 3 multi car package, its going up by 0.02% on last year in spite of the Supra value being raise by £21k over last years policy. Hagerty will not broker anything beyond very mildly modded cars though which will rule out a lot of Supras.

With Hagerty they cleared it with the insurer to go from £44k to £65k in one jump. They seem to go with me on Supra prices and asked me to call as soon as things change and it needs to go up again.

The body shop I used to sort the usual tailgate screen lip rust on my car arranged the glass removal and refitting with Autoglass but told me the discontinued glass (even though when the work was done it wasn't actually discontinued, you could still buy the glass from Toyota or US various retailers) would only be removed and refitted at my own risk. So if it shattered, I was on my own. That was getting on for ten years ago now and the glass is now officially discontinued so it might just be a service Autoglass no longer offer or they might need a body shop to do the booking, but I doubt that would be the case in either instance. When they did my glass out and back in their charges were very reasonable, £40 all in for the two visits. But, that was a decade ago.

Everyone knows people on this forum demand a bargain. Sometimes a bargain that they can then sell on for a handsome profit. Advertise them on FB and no one will be laughing.

There is a 17" OEM set come up on eBay, reasonably priced by current standards. They are a bit scaggy so in need of a refurb, the silver painted valves says all anyone needs to know. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115518495984

Autoglass will remove and refit glass but they won't insure any glass that is discontinued. So rear screen is at your own risk.

I had a bit of a nightmare with an old English sports car I bought when I found out that the coolant had gone to a translucent blue solid jelly in the heater matrix and plumbing past the opening heater tap, even though it looked and was fine in the radiator. Clearly a sign that the glycol had not been changed regularly. Now, without fail I replace coolant every 2 to 3 years on all my cars which is what you are supposed to do but no one ever does. If you have gel formed in your matrix there is no way you will ever be able to recover the situation. Nothing dissolves it and no amount of air or water pressure will move it. At least the heater box on the old English sports car is in the engine bay and cost £35 for an upgraded output replacement. Cars were simple things once.

I have heard that peeps are paying that price.

Seems OEM 17" wheels are now pretty firmly priced at £2,000, Euro2,000 or US$2,000 optional extra from all the recent ads around UK, USA and Europe. They are definitely not cheap, I am going to have to reinstate locking wheel nuts when I finally get around to putting this set onto my car.

I wouldn't take the risk of a policy that didn't have an agreed value these days. I've just been looking at some USA Supra ads, there is a RHD TT6 that is broken advertised for US$65k. Its cheap because its broken.

There was a thread last year asking how long people had owned their cars and it turned out that there are lots who have had their Supra a long time and grown older or just plain old with the car. 24 years myself, same car.

What I don't get is there is only one hinge part number for the Celica but two part numbers for left and right on the Supra. Am I missing something? The Celica part 68801-20090 is listing as available but the Supra parts are listed as discontinued.

Be good if you can confirm they are the same as the 1990's Celica as there will likely be more of those around than those off a Mk4 Supra with ten time the production numbers.

As a side note Squiffy had the same problem in January and bought two off the forum, maybe he only used one in the end and then maybe if he has one left its just the side you need. It'd be worth asking the question anyway.

These hinges are discontinued so outside of a breaker they will be in short supply. This is the kind of incident when a welder and a NVQ comes in handy.

In which case, I'd go for the cheap cable every time. Its the charger that determines and regulates the 5V output and current modulation. The cable will only downgrade that with variable resistance so wouldn't have any potential to harm any plugged in appliance. For anyone regularly using google or apple maps, the charging cradle is an ideal way to go.