rider

I didn't say anything. I'm no braking engineer. Its what others have said. I presume they are engineers who know something about what they write about. The summation is anyone considering fitting non OE brakes because they will provide better braking may not realise that expectation. It's probably like putting a big turbo on your engine because you read somewhere it'd give you 600bhp but then wondering why it doesn't because you haven't factored in the extra fuel required. Its a fascinating area and an essential safety one where any changes can have foreseen and unforeseen consequences so its good to know we may well have at least one braking systems expert amongst us.

I read reports that said the brake size doesn't appreciably impact stopping distance, its more down to how much tyre is in contact with hopefully with dry road. So fitting wider tyres would seem to be the better way to reduce stopping distance. That's probably a reason why F1 cars don't run 165's. The only benefit that consistently came from big brakes was pedal feel and heat dissipation on frequent heavy use. That's presumably why F1 cars run large disc, 6 pot brakes and split hydraulics, front and rear.

Ric, you must be a big and quite possibly painted brake man. I'm sure you took into account any side effects fitting big brakes can have before heading off on track days. As for volume and pressures having no relevance I'll leave you with an extract written by an engineer. Maybe he knows what he is writing about, maybe he doesn't. "Master Cylinders Most production cars use a single master cylinder, typically with two pistons running in two bores. Each of the pistons are sized for the stock front and rear brakes. When upgrading brake systems, the master cylinder's volume and pressure must be known and accounted for." Its possibly because pistons go in and out requiring different volumes and system pressure than the manufacturers engineers designed into the system and the electronic braking support systems. Just guessing there though. Maybe you can do a write up and I'll pass it onto the engineers writing these articles and see if we get some feedback for you.

I had a badger take out my bumper 9 years ago. The stock lip was a real hard thing to get new even back then. In the end one had to be ordered and brought in from Japan and took 2 months to arrive. Good luck!

Everyone knows big brakes are better than small brakes. The bigger the better (especially when painted) then allied to more pots the better and the bigger the material compressed on disc the better. Except there are plenty of myth buster sites that say you need to be very specific about bigger as its not always better as bigger has no respect for how the car is set up and managed by the automated ABS and traction control systems. I have a jspec on its small discs low number of pots braking and that gets up to near 160mph before the limiter cuts in and it slows down from 160mph without any real drama whenever I've done that and I've done it a lot. So tiny brakes with limited pots do work in real life, real road conditions. It seems bigger brakes come into their own predominantly to dissipate heat fade relative to smaller brakes. Stopping distance is impacted to a large extent by the area of tyre in road contact. So, reading a few sites it appears big brakes may well only be any use if you have lots of corners and chicanes to negotiate while driving as fast as you dare to around a track. There are even sites that mention big brakes can have safety concerns as they draw a lot more hydraulic fluid and DIY fitters may not have factored this into a larger reservoir. Also they can fool the ABS management into thinking things are in a different state of brake panic to where they really are, making braking assistance less effective in panic situations. So, reading between the lines non OE big brakes may well be pointless unless ragging around a track regularly and possibly a retrograde step unless allied to reprogramming or isolating the electronic braking aids. Its an interesting topic and a bit of a black arts area from the limited reading I've done into the subject area. Seems to be a few things that need to consider before just slapping big disc 6 potter on because they look good, all that looks good may not be as good as they look. Pretty key in things a critical as vehicle braking. its a fascinating area where unforeseen side effects can mitigate the perceived advantage. Think I'll do some more reading.

There are a few 220mm diffs for sale in the USA available for £1.5k to £3k. If that's in your price range I can put you in touch with someone who can arrange States side storage awaiting one of his regularly shipped sea containers over to the UK and he lands them pretty close to you so you could collect out of the container. He just takes a little contribution toward the container cost and arranges all the customs clearance which you would have to pay for of course to cover the VAT and duty. This would of course mean you wouldn't see the part for at least a month to three, dependent on when he is next scheduling to ship. PS - just checked, he is planning to schedule the next shipment end of January. On sea time and customs clearance takes about 10 days so you could have the diff via a US supplier around mid-Feb.

I'll buy your TT6 for around £16k if you want to sell. There you go, doubled your money. PM me if interested.

Complimentary sunglasses would be needed to handle that interior. Got to be around £7k assuming good underside condition and some history if the door decal is a vinyl, less if its paint.

Ill take both for £1k. PM me if acceptable.

For the mileage and no rust you are probably going to be restricted to looking at a recent Jap import. May be a good idea to register your interest with JM Imports as he may know of some already in the UK coming up for sale. Importing fresh from Japan now you'd be looking more like £20k plus since the drop in the £ for something to meet your needs, that may be the fastest route for you though to secure a car meeting your requirements. As an example JM highlighted this linked car in Japan recently which was going to cost around £23k as a UK landed and registered car. Its since sold. https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.goo-net.com%2Fphp%2Fsales_records%2Fdetail.php%3Fbaitai%3Dgoo%26area_cd%3D13%26goo_car_id%3D941016081900505380001&edit-text=&act=url

Back in 2001 the car would have been worth around £12k so the damage must have been substantial to be, then, an insurance write off. That will, as it always does, have an appreciable impact upon a cars value. The absence of history prior to 2012 could put some off but if you have to old MOTs that's always a good sign the cars been catered to reasonably well throughout its life. On the door wind noise I had the same problem with the seal leaking at speeds over 65mph when my door was replaced after a car decided to park in the door. If the shut lines are good its the seal that needs sorted. I took a heat source (heat gun) to the sealing strip and plumped it up in the top corner and down the vertical length. Had to do it a few times but it settled to a good seal again. Its always difficult to price Aeros as they are so few and far between. Probably comes down to how many people are looking and that's probably going to be quite a few more come May onwards.

I used to carry 4 up regularly until the youngest daughters legs reached the end of the rear seat cushion, which took till when she was 5. Travelled as far as the Netherlands 4 up in the Supra.

If you are desperate you'd probably need to offer 30% over the 'normal' price to entice someone. There was an offer of £27k on a jspec TT6 that the owner, after some considered thought, decided not to accept. They found that offer tempting so its the old adage that anything is for sale at the right price. With such a rare car tied to a variant choice if you don't force a sale by paying over the odds then you will need time. The good news is that it appears Supra inflation has halved to around 25% this year so prices are no longer climbing at the rate they were.

If you have the Halfords Calcium HCB005 that has a capacity of 62AH. So a draw of 0.07A will drain a good battery over 37 days. So if your charge is gone in a few days either you have additional battery drain you aren't measuring or the battery is not in good condition.

All batteries have a capacity rating of amp/hr and that is the number of amps to drain the battery in one hour. So if you divide your battery capacity by the drain rate you will get the time taken to drain the battery. Any current will drain the battery, its like having a full tank of liquid with a leak. The battery capacity needs to be well above the drain point to turn a starter motor so its not really much use determining the battery life anyway.

If you want a new one you will probably be best looking to buy via the USA or Japan. The part is around $220 in the US from discount suppliers. You will probably need the two tank supporting straps as well and they are around $50 each. You may want to consider replacing the bolts to, at the same time. I've used this company a few times and its always worked out. http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/7764114100

There was one on eBay a couple of months back that I don't think sold (seats and carpet item number 182280199497). May be worth contacting the seller to see if he still has the carpet. A fair number of the beige carpets would have been dyed over the years so its probably going to be a rare offering. It might be best just lodging an interest with the main scrappers of Supras and just waiting for one to turn up on a car they are stripping.

I have my Supra TT6 through LV Classics and asked for a quote on an additional modified 600bhp single. I asked if they wanted the spec sheet emailed over but they said no and quoted me an annual £280 for £21k agreed value (as opposed to £220 for the standard TT6 on £18k agreed value). I was surprised they didn't want a rundown on the mods but happy with the quote. So looks if you are old enough and have a good driving record they don't have an issue with higher hp modified cars. The classic policies are all limited mileage though they don't go below 5,000 mile policies and do require the insured has a separate daily driver. LV top the customer satisfaction surveys from claimants too so if they will quote they are really one insurer that should be contacted.

Seems mates, as always, know best. You really should chill a bit. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, even yours is valid, Word of advice though, turn down the sensitivity gauge otherwise you may find it played with a little.

Greg, you are a special one for sure. Someone called you a bell end in another thread. I though that was harsh, but you never know.

If you replaced all the rubbers on the hatch then as Ric says start with the lock adjustment. I'm surprised that replacing the hatch rubbers didn't sort the creaking out though, did you replace both the side and lip rubbers?

I've been reading up a bit on single turbo conversions ready to go look at one with a view to purchase and it probably comes down the horse power you are throwing out. The Larger diff with the 220mm crown seems to be the recommended one if your are going North of 550bhp. Particularly if you also opt for an aftermarket traction control that has a launch option. Another thing you need to consider is the V161 mount and how stiff or solid that should be which again comes down to the horse power you are going to be putting through the transmission. You'd want to tie that into any modifications that you or others have made to the engine mounts regarding their solidity. It really is a case of how much power you tend to or have the capability to apply.

I'm sure if you stuck a £1mn diamond onto the gear stick you could sell the car for £800k.

I'm sure if you stuck a £1mn diamond onto the gear stick you could sell the car for £800k.

There were reported over $80,000 of mods to that car. I hear TT6 Supras used to sell routinely with no mods for £41,999 in the UK at one time to.