rider

Call Paul at Whifbitz, I'm sure he will be able to tell you the difference.

Probably best if you mention which model they were purchased for, pre or post VVTi and if the gaskets are still with the pipes.

Thanks Nic. I had a useful chat with mrinjector who does a lot of seal kits but not for these. He did mention that the side injectors can be really difficult to part from the fuel rail and quite often one or the other gets damaged. He did mention the Denso viton O rings are the best in the business and often he sees them as good as new even when 20 years old. So the recommendation was if it isn't broken don't look to fix it. I'll probably buy the seal kit, Whifbitz stock them, and leave doing anything until the seals fail. With mrinjectors comment about damage, would it be wise to have a spare fuel rail to hand? I'm sure someone who has done an injector or seal replacement would have an idea on that.

My injectors have never been touched and as far as I am aware they are running fine with no fuel leaks and power output seems fine. But with 20 year old seals fuel leaks are likely to start sometime, anytime. The Toyota part number for the injectors is 23209-49025. Does anyone know what volume these injectors are rated to? Also, if you replace with say a larger capacity injector do you then need to also have the car mapped for the higher fuel delivery rate. But would the fuel injection rate vary significantly if you are still running the original fuel pump? Aside from those questions the price on OE injectors ranges wildly online but is seems you can get a full 6 set (remanufactured) for around £225 delivered taxes paid. Or you can get the O ring set to change on the existing injectors for around £50. Would it be better to buy in a new set of injectors ready for the day when the old seals fail or would a simple seal kit be the prudent option to keep everything running as before?

And be worth almost twice what you paid for it. Not a bad choice for all the right reasons. I think the stock look is a classic look and 040 is a great colour. Definitely one of the most desirable Supras in the country. Look after it.

No, its was like that when I purchased it. I am the second owner following its import. You don't need any reversing lights for the MOT so you could use both as fog lights with red bulbs but I live miles down single tracks so the reversing lights are essential reversing aids when its dark so I am glad I still have two of those that I have fitted bright LEDS to. No one who didn't know a jspec has 4 brake lights would ever know it had 4 brake lights at one time.

My jspec has what I think is the neat option with the two of the four brake lights (inner pairing) are given over to fog lights. So no bumper holes required and retains two bulbs for all the other light functions.

I just bought a few smart chargers, CTEK MXS 5.0 models which are around £60 each through Amazon which are doing what they are supposed to do. You can leave the charging leads hard wired to your battery and just snap plug into the charger lead plug when you get home or it has the normal croc clips; assuming you don't live on a high floor of a block of flats. The advantage of a smart charger is they charge then maintain the charge so aren't on unless the battery is actually being charged. May be worth you looking into that as a means to maintain a ready to go charged battery through the higher power draw winter months?

This link may help you identify your issues. When a problem is apparent, a means to address it can often be found. I have headed multi-national companies and in that position you have to be capable of develop peoples strengths and assisting them to confront and hopefully overcome their issues. It would help in your professional life also. Good luck! http://www.marketingeye.com/blog/culture/why-egomaniacs-have-to-have-the-last-word.html

If noticed across many thread you always have a need to get the last comment in and that indicates a psychological deficiency. There is a classification for it, I'll let you go read up on that.

As usual, you overlooked the OP's posting. Nothing new there. It related along the lines of winter storage. I think you just like to over engineer and an aviation thick gloopy product appeals to you. Some people who actually do use their motorbikes in winter swear by it compared to WD40 because its gloopier and doesn't wash off as easily. Now if you refer back to the OP, they are looking for something to largely act as a moisture repellent for winter storage. They are not going to be driving at 37,000 feet or thrashing around an elements exposed 12,000 rpm screamer. I think the cat litter in socks is a fantastic idea, has to be some tantric crystals at 5 times the price somewhere though.

£15 ACF or £4 WD40? That's a tough call. "tested how well a number of substances prevented rust. The results surprised us: Plain old WD-40 was the most successful in keeping rust from forming on a mild steel surface, outperforming many other substances engineered specifically the job." Its basically white spirit - about 90% from memory. Light base oil and a corrosion inhibitor that leaves a very thin protective film. An alternative would be 10% engine oil in white spirit but that has detergents and acid neutralisers in it that are metal based. Plain ordinary WD40 will suffice.

I have identified a US supplier who says they are willing to move the heel pad to the correct side of the carpet who retails Supra carpets in a complete kaleidoscope of colours all for about $250. That's about a fifth of the price of now discontinued OE carpets so who knows until you see one what the quality comparison is going to be. For all those original cream cars with a beige carpet that have had it dyed this could be a way out to return a car back to stock look. Anyone who wants the identity of the retailer revealed PM me. Not prepared to put it into open forum just yet as I'm talking to them about price options and if they can send a carpet sample for inspection and comparison to OE at the moment.

If you are uncovered and under a carport there isn't much you can do to improve airflow. One thing you could do is spray WD40 over everything as a moisture and corrosion barrier. Seeing its white spirit with a little bit of light oil based it would not hang around once you get the engine running again..

The SIM card is to text tracking data to a mobile phone number. You usually ping it with a message and it'll send the position data back. GPS is fine under the dash. Its only if you were to push it behind sheets of metal the GPS signal could be blocked. These simple tracker systems have been used for probably 10 years now and unlike the TM tracker there are no annual subs. Just needs credit on a PAYG sim card, a GPS signal and a phone signal to work effectively. Read and learn - 280 odd reviews to trawl through https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tracker-Vehicle-Theft-Protection-System-x/dp/B003XDN58K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1483809365&sr=8-8&keywords=gps+tracker

Did it pass the MOT with that level of window tint?

I'm not sure if the Supra had OBD 1 ports.

The Supra doesn't have a OBD2 socket and I don't think there are 1 to 2 converters but there are plenty of GPS trackers on eBay that people use that cost about £25 and only require a PAYG sim card and mains feed and fitment under dash.

That's all very technical Chris and I know there are many who do struggle with the technical aspects. Do you have an overview, summary, key points snapshot kind of idiots guide to understanding exhaust dynamics relative to variables of size, bends, packing? Otherwise everyone will just go big bore every time because its noisier and looks mean.

I think its the same part number that applies to all Supra production years.

I used to spend a lot of time in that part of the World. Cologne is a really fantastic city, great architecture considering not much is more than 72 years old. I used to get there in 10 hours from Shropshire so its not a long drive and the forests East of Aachen with hills and reservoirs offer up a really nice drive arena after a blast SW on the Autobahn.

I think the days of £40 a wheel have gone, everyone around here is £60 a wheel these days for a simple colour application. I had mine done shadow chrome silver on black and they were £70 a wheel 2 years ago.

I'd recon if you can buy it for £9-10k which is a lot more than what it would have been worth 5 years ago and do nothing to it beyond keep it MOT'd and running you will probably get a better return that if you spent good amounts of money making good with new parts and paint to turn back its well used old age. Depends whether you want it as a driver that will appreciate unless something major goes bang or a money pit rejuvenated classic.

Thanks guys for the leads. PMd Bob B to ask for price .