rider

Cheapest I've seen is £24.99 delivered eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Lexus-IS300-Timing-Belt-13568-YZZ14-/181077012094?hash=item2a2907ee7e:g:ZcgAAMXQrvpRFOaH

You can buy this belt from Toyota dealers for £31 inclusive of VAT and delivery.

More info. Here are some advisory new parts prices from Japan. 47101 Pedal Sub-assy, Brake 47101-14210 1 US $26.77 47101A Spring(for Brake Pedal Return) 90905-07004 1 US $4.44 47101B Bush(for Clutch Pedal) 90386-13015 2 US $1.63 47121 Pad, Clutch Pedal 31321-14020 1 US $2.51 47124 Shaft, Clutch Pedal 90101-10081 1 US $2.81 47124A Collar(for Brake Pedal Shaft) 90387-10135 1 US $5.92 47131 Cushion, No.1(for Clutch Pedal) 90541-06036 1 US $1.48 47264A Pin(for Push Rod) 90249-10064 1 US $2.81 55195 Stay, Pedal Bracket, No.1 55195-14020 1 US $25 Pedal Sub-assy, Clutch Toyota 31301-14120 US $34.16 If you certain of the £400 + shipping + duty that'd come in at close to £600 then its keenly priced.

Anyone have a non air bag OE steering wheel they would like to rehome? Must be in excellent condition.

There is a 300ZX discussion on titanium keys. The read on it is any place can cut them that cuts keys, just don't tell them its titanium. Maybe that'd make them nervous. Best price on a cut was £1.

I don't know if there is a big demand for pedals but for info a new clutch master cylinder is around £120 and a repair kit around £40.

I didn't even know there was a low fuel light. What does it look like?

Worth having in mind that a lot of the modified cars in the classifieds on here and in PH recently are not exactly racing off to new homes. So it comes down to is a sale needed or are you not bothered if it sells when it comes to setting a price. I'd say £20k is plain dreamy.

After a front set of yellow indicator lenses and rear light clusters. PM me if you have a set available, must be clear, clean and near as good as new.

Back listed again, seller (new owner) say he has found that he cannot afford to insure it! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-supra-RZ-big-single-turbo-/222383880206?hash=item33c71cb80e:g:8Y8AAOSw9GhYghiv

I think the caps are different sizes for the 16" or 17" wheels so it may be useful if you share what size of wheel you have and need the caps for?

I have a set on my car and they do a good sturdy job of protecting the coolers, condenser and intercooler. Good price offer on eBay for black grilles. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZunSport-Toyota-Supra-MK4-1993-1998-Black-Steel-Mesh-Full-Grille-Set-/111486821168?hash=item19f521e330:g:xDwAAOSwF1dUP5wy

I checked Japanese availability within the last 2 weeks on all four sensors and only one came back as still available and three are out of stock with no schedule to restock. Effectively out of production. Lots of sites still list a price for all four sensors but then will come back as not currently available.

TT Auto listing on eBay. Cool. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-supra-twin-turbo-/122313187185?hash=item1c7a6f1f71:g:SqcAAOSw44BYfESe

I see trouble ahead. Isn't that how the song goes? People are climbing all over sales threads these days. and the frenzy for decent parts is only going to get a lot worse. It could get nasty.

Glad its sorted. Bet you swore once or twice!

If you are still struggling with this there is a very non technical way to know when your number 1 is at TDC. That is to take the spark plug out and have someone rotate the engine with a socket on the crank and position a finger over the hole you can feel suction or pressure as the piston falls or rises in the cylinder. On its up stroke you can gently place a long screwdriver in the hole and rest it gently on top of the piston. As the crank turns slowly on the ratchet the piston will rise and so will the screwdriver shaft. You'll know when this reaches its maximum lift you are at or very close to TDC. At this point you can offer up the distributor with the rotor facing when the number one cylinder lead on the distributor cap would sit were it in place. There is a link that takes you through spark plug access here http://mkiv.com/techarticles/spark_plugs/na/index.html Its fun really, give it a try but do note the words gently. The last thing you'd want to do is go jabbing screwdrivers into your cylinders or piston crowns. I personally have only used this technique when there were no timing marks visible preferring a pencil with an end rubber to a screwdriver. But I wouldn't recommend that to someone who isn't confident as a broken pencil in the cylinders may be a way to introduce lubricating carbon but its not ideal.

The only lesson from this is you should do some research before posting items for sale. We see it all the time with people not bothering with that and there has even been postings for bits that wont fit jspec or uk spec cars that I've picked up on. A gentleman's word should be the bond though, so when a commitment to pay is made then that should seal the deal done unless the parts turns out to be a crock of crap or the buyer doesn't pay in an agreed time. Other than that, maybe the forum could open up an auctions section for those who don't have a clue what things are worth, where they can list their parts. The sales section is going to get even more like a feeding frenzy as time goes by with Toyota discontinued parts availability drying up in the supply chain so we can probably expect a lot more unruly overbidding to occur. Instead of unwritten rules maybe they need updating with some written ones. I've seen the other side of the sales where I've been first in then a mate comes along and gets first dibs. So the OP isn't the only one to ever go back on a deal but I'm not about to bitch and whine over it. In an ideal World agreements and commitment to pay should do it and in almost all cases does. I think the car dismantlers do us all a great service and the ones I bought off have been 100% genuine. As I'm confident the OP will manage to be from here on in.

There doesn't look much give in those. For anyone potentially looking to stock some spare rubber OE ones there were lots of places out of stock on these and the other diff bushes are completely out of stock with all the sources I contacted (though there are some listed on ebay.com) with no schedule to make any more. So grab them while you can or it'll be poly or solid as the only options.

I always figured wrap was only a good idea on commercial vehicles and company cars that see a high mileage that after a few years abuse can then be removed to reveal a near new paint finish ready for the vehicles second owner. I struggle with seeing the point of wrapping a low mileage older car over doing a re-spray. Your car doesn't look like it needs a re-spray so why bother unless there is a need for a paint perfect 24 year old car, I don't get that bit either. As you are selling it and the paint is essentially fine I wouldn't bother doing anything to it, the only thing I was pointing out is anyone considering buying the car (or indeed any Auto Air painted car) needs to be aware its not a colour you can touch up. Custom pain is what it says on the tin, the paint colour is built not applied.

I checked with the custom paint suppliers, Auto Air, and the Nightmare blue with purple fleck on your car looks fantastic especially when first applied but it is a blend decided upon at the time of spraying so with this combination of pearlescent blue base and metallic flake (unless you know the original formula and number of coats on the translucent layer) it is impossible to touch up. So if replacing something as visibly large as a bumper you'd need to contemplate a complete car re-spray or to be happy with mismatched or contrast paint. That's part of the joy of having a metallic hot rod kind of custom paint finish. There are a good many build and experience threads on this car from the former forum owner Golfpro. He had the car for a good many years and anyone who owns a car for as long as he did and spent as much money on it as he did must have cherished it. I'd argue though that the custom paint may not have been one of the better spending choices.

Another simple thing to check and that is that the rotor goes around with the engine turning over. Its a different setup on the Supra with a worm gear but I had that happen when I changed my MGB distributor and the flange hadn't fully engaged. No damage can result from this but I then needed to make sure the timing marks were lined up before the distributor was again dropped in to ensure it would fire at the correct time (rotor position to number 1 cylinder) and then finally timing checked when running with a strobe.

Did you remember to replace the rotor? Plugged in the electrics? Checked for a spark? Certain its lined up properly, checked the rotor is on cylinder 1 at TDC? Ignition problems can be really easy to sort or a real pain, hope yours is the easy kind?

Probably not something most people are likely to have sitting around. Have you considered approaching one of the many 3D printer services companies around? Should be easy to knock one up if you can measure the dimensions. They can even put a relief into the print if its not a completely smooth blank you are after. Or put text on it - like 'this is a blank'. No idea what it'd cost but I'm sure someone on the forum could knock up a 3D STL file or one of the printing companies would do that. You could get spares made and then sell the surplus. That's how a parts industry builds up around a car and the Supra is for sure going to need people to go out and get parts copied and manufactured as OE supply availability dies out.

Where did you get that original air box from? They are a prized asset these days as too many were simply thrown away and Toyota don't sell them anymore. I had a broken clip on my air box lid and thankfully that was still an available item from Toyota so get your order in quick on that as I expect they aren't making them any more so when stocks are gone, they are gone. I've been looking into availability of bushes from Toyota and there are several no longer in stock. Same issues pending on suspension parts and with ABS sensors there are only supplies of one of the four still around. Pretty soon we will all be living off recycled Supra and Soarer parts.